Removing the rear drums on ‘35 Ford.

[AnthonyG]

I was getting ready to install the Lockheed hydraulic backing plates on my ‘35 hydraulic brake conversion. I adjusted the mechanical brake shoes in all the way but the drum still seems to be stuck. I tried a puller I had w no luck, didn’t want to maniac it so stopped & asked around. A local old timer said I need a special wheel puller made for it. Anyone know if there’s a specific puller he’s talking about? Or other suggestions?

[Bob C]

Get the one from vintage precision. http://www.vintageprecision.com/prod...ers/index.html

[Charlie Stephens]

A good puller like Bob recommends is less than replacing the axle after you screw it up. Check to see if your local V8 or Model A clubs have one they loan.

Charlie Stephens

[AnthonyG]

I’ll check around. The tool shown from Vintage looks like a hub puller. I know the later years the hub & the drum r a unit but thought on the ‘35’s the drum slides off the studs?

[cas3]

35 is all cast in one unit, no removable drum

[34fordy]

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I believe 35 rear drums are held to the hub by the "SWEDGED" lug bolts

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

I believe 35 rear drums are held to the hub by the "SWEDGED" lug bolts

Me too At least mine are. I recently separated a '35 drum and hub by cutting the swedged area at each lug bolt. Now there could be some that were made as one piece.

[AnthonyG]

I am using the ‘35 rear drums in the juice brake conversion on rebuilt 1940 Lockheed backing plates which I’ve read in threads are will fit? It appears they will work in the attached or detached config. I think I got myself confused in doing original research. These are the type w the swedged to the hubs at the bottom of the studs. I know folks separate them but don’t remember the reason? Is simply for the convenience of being able to remove the drum for easy access to shoes?

[cas3]

One reason to separate them is it is easier to find a brake lathe that will do just a drum, than to find one with the fixture to accept the whole unit.
It is more accurate to turn them together though I believe. Sorry for miss info about them being one piece.

[AnthonyG]

Am I correct in thinking they can be used either separated or attached when using the ‘35 rear drums on the 1940 config Lockheed rear brakes?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Am I correct in thinking they can be used either separated or attached when using the ‘35 rear drums on the 1940 config Lockheed rear brakes?

Tony ..... They can be used! Look BELOW at pictures of a REAL '35 rear drum. They are a "ONE-YEAR-ONLY" drum. Only the '35 has the multiple ribs around the perimeter. Look closely at the first picture. You can see the factory SWAGE on the studs at 1:00 o'clock and the one at 6:00 o'clock. They are real swages just like you're thinking about. In fact, read this entire post in the link BELOW!

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...=35+brake+drum

[Newc]

35 drums are sought after for hyd conversions w wire wheels, Use a good hub puller and hope the sharp edge of the key has not bit unto the drum. I round the inner top edge of the key every time. Newc

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by cas3

One reason to separate them is it is easier to find a brake lathe that will do just a drum, than to find one with the fixture to accept the whole unit.
It is more accurate to turn them together though I believe. Sorry for miss info about them being one piece.

The reason I separated one of mine was to salvage a very nice drum from a hub that had the internal axle taper ruined by someone who did not torque the axle nut correctly. Then the axle key sheared and wallowed out the internal hub taper.

[AnthonyG]

Phew! There off! Thx for all the support! Lockheed assy’s go on Thursday.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

Phew! There off! Thx for all the support! Lockheed assy’s go on Thursday.

Hey Tony ..... You took a chance there using that 3-armed puller rather than the KRW type or the currently-available puller that pulls on the CENTER HUB. Hopefully, yours came off somewhat easily and you haven't warped or bent the drum or hub. Folks warn others on here frequently about using any puller other than a CENTER-PULL puller.

Sidenote here: If the drums come off too easily, they were not tight enough to begin with, which can lead to axle fatigue and cracks at the inner end of the axle's keyway. Good luck there, Tony! Please keep us updated.

Coop

[junkbrick]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Tony ..... They can be used! Look BELOW at pictures of a REAL '35 rear drum. They are a "ONE-YEAR-ONLY" drum. Only the '35 has the multiple ribs around the perimeter. Look closely at the first picture. You can see the factory SWAGE on the studs at 1:00 o'clock and the one at 6:00 o'clock. They are real swages just like you're thinking about. In fact, read this entire post in the link BELOW!

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...=35+brake+drum

Thanks for the link Coop, this shed some light on my '36, It had these (35) drums on it when I got it. I liked the look of them but never new much about it than that.

[AnthonyG]

Thx Coop, I think they’re ok but I’ll check them!