Loosen / tighten individual cylinder head nuts?

[DRG-ler]

Normal is relative. It's not normal, but it's quite common. There is no oil supply on this side, so it can only be a mixture of soot and water. (I have too.) If there are only 1-2 drops, I'd just watch it first. If it gets stronger and you can see that the cylinder is pulling water, (you can see the spark plug and the piston surface) then you have to intervene and replace the cylinder head gasket. In addition, I think I have read somewhere that you should check new cylinder head gaskets and check the nuts more often. Tighten again and again with the torque wrench because the seal is still sitting and still working due to the different temperatures. By the way, my head gasket didn't leak after the action than before. Greetings Andy

[nkaminar]

Wow, really nice installation, very clean. I have a couple of comments:

The engine flexes a small amount. I would have added short lengths of rubber hose near the firewall.

There are some really strong magnets available, 30 pounds pull. Using these would mean that you would not have to disturb the head nuts and that the system would be easy to remove if desired.

I see you have a valve at the return. This is a very good idea as eventually we may have a summer.

Did you build a scoop at the inlet to the heater system (water outlet)? That makes the system run when the thermostat opens up.

[DRG-ler]

It is hard to see in the pictures, but the pipes have 3mm clearance on all sides in the bulkhead and can move. The transition to the heat exchanger is then built with rubber hoses. I would not like a solution with magnets. The super magnets did not yet exist in 1930. But that would be a solution that could have been built back then. I haven't made any changes to the thermostat housing and it has always been warm enough. Even with the thermostat open. The only thing I still need is either a 6V motor for the blower, or a voltage converter. A 12V motor is currently installed, which runs quite slowly with the 6V in the car. It could get warm faster ...

[katy]

Suggest that you measure how much current (amps) the motor uses on 12 volts and then get a 6 volt to 12 volt convertor that can handle the current required plus about 20-25% (or more).

[DRG-ler]

Yes, that's my plan too (parts are already here.) ... At least it's plan B. Plan A would be an original 6V engine. But it's hard to find.

[nkaminar]

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I have a comment not related to your heater. There is usually a rubber insulator that is installed over the ignition cable that runs from the distributor to the junction box on the firewall. It is installed right at the junction box to prevent shorts. See https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...model-a/wiring

I think you have thought of everything for the installation of your heater. Good luck finding the 6 volt fan motor. Another option would be a 6 volt to 12 volt converter or carrying around a small 12 volt battery.

[DRG-ler]

Ah, thanks for the hint. I once bought a set with many seals and this rubber was included. But I never found out where it belonged. I can retrofit it now.

[Ernie Vitucci]

Good afternoon...check Speedway Motors...I was able to purchase a six volt motor that was part of a six volt radiator fan system...it was pretty reasonable...Ernie in Arizona

[DHZIEMAN]

Originally Posted by DRG-ler

Hi Guys,

I would like to install some copper water pipes for heating in my 1930s Tudor. These should be placed long on the left of the cylinder head. But since there is no good fastening option there, I would like to build brackets that are fastened with the cylinder head nuts.

How are your experiences with loosening and tightening the nuts regarding the tightness of the head gasket? My head gasket is already sweating a bit on the left. A mix of petrol and coal comes out above the engine number. But not so much that I want to replace the cylinder head gasket. A drop every 100km.

Now I have concerns that the conversion will make it worse.
What is the experience like when retrofitting the heat protection for the ignition distributor? This is also assembled this way.

What are your experiences with the material pairings cast iron / stainless steel in relation to corrosion?

Thank you in advance.

Andy

If you are noticing that kind of creosote look around the head gasket, it is already an indication that total retorquing of the entire head would be in order. The method given to me by this very forum provided the method. Using a Model A Ford head tightening sequence instruction, and using an accurate torque wrench, Start on the first nut and loosen it and then tighten it back to the specified foot Lbs. (55 ft lbs) One thing you will discover, is you are tightening most nuts more than you loosened them. And When you get down to the nut by the distributor, If you do not have the Model A offset wrench, best to purchase a 7/16 crows foot to loosen and tighten.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by n4yhd1

I am new to Model A's, but mine runs fine but does weep at a small spot on the left side between the cylinder head and block. I was going to replace the head gasket to fix this, but according to your comment this is normal? please explain further.

I have replied to your PM.

[Synchro909]

I very well executed installation but one thing jumped out at me. Why did you insulate the return pipe?

[DRG-ler]

Because you could burn yourself if you touch it. No not true. The isolation is actually for optical purposes only. It looks more appealing, and you don't see that it is pipes and fittings from the heating industry.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by DHZIEMAN

If you are noticing that kind of creosote look around the head gasket, it is already an indication that total retorquing of the entire head would be in order. The method given to me by this very forum provided the method. Using a Model A Ford head tightening sequence instruction, and using an accurate torque wrench, Start on the first nut and loosen it and then tighten it back to the specified foot Lbs. (55 ft lbs) One thing you will discover, is you are tightening most nuts more than you loosened them. And When you get down to the nut by the distributor, If you do not have the Model A offset wrench, best to purchase a 7/16 crows foot to loosen and tighten.

7/16" crows foot? Should be closer to 11/16". Remember if using a crows foot, use it 90° to the torque wrench. Using it straight changes the torque a certain amount.

[duke36]

Larry Brumfield and others recommend re-torque sequence with engine warm, then completely cooled off followed by backing off nuts no more than 1/8th turn, one at a time before setting torque.