carb delima on a '56 Ford intake

[thomaswatk]

I have a '56 Ford with a 292 engine and a teapot carb.. Who makes an adapter for the intake that will enable me to put on a different, later model 4bbl ?
Thanks
Tom

[Dobie Gillis]

Check Summit or Speedway Motors. They have adapters for the purpose.

[hotrodart]

I used a Rochester 4GC that fits a Buick 322 nailhead on my '56 312 motor. Bolted on with no mods needed.....had to slightly re-rout the fuel inlet and distributor vacuum lines. Very simple and reliable.

[dmsfrr]

Does your distributor have a double sided vacuum canister like this one?

Be aware the vacuum port on the (oem) carb and the vacuum advance canister on the (oem) distributor use a pressure that isn't the same as anything else I know of. Double check that the timing advances as needed, before and after carb installation.
.

[JeffB2]

Usually when this is done you will want to change the distributor to a 1957-62 292 unit the 1956 has a Load-O-Matic distribubtor that works with Tea-pot but not with the later style Carbs. This would wake it up better: http://www.ford-y-block.com/Dualplane.htm

[paul2748]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Tea pot doesn't work good? There is a rebuilder in PA that does a great job on teapots.

Did two for me and I'm very happy with them.

[thomaswatk]

Thanks for all the responses. The carb seems to work fine, it's the choke that's the problem. When I set it so it closes when cold, it won't open far enough when warm, and when I set it open when the engine is hot, it won't close when it gets cold. The spring seems to be ok, and it opens and closes partially, but not far enough. Maybe I'll look for a new or different spring.
Thanks again for all the good thoughts and info.
Tom

[dmsfrr]

A replacement spring could be the simplest solution.
Depending on how it's working I'd be inclined to set it so it's just opened fully when warmed up, and when cold keep it running with your right foot.
If you were to change the carb to a different one it would be a 'whole can of worms' sort of thing.
A different carb will need... a new air cleaner, a different distributor, they'll work better with a newer intake manifold, etc. etc. ....
.

[thomaswatk]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

A replacement spring could be the simplest solution.
Depending on how it's working I'd be inclined to set it so it's just opened fully when warmed up, and when cold keep it running with your right foot.
If you were to change the whole carb it would be a 'whole can of worms' sort of thing.

I'm inclined to agree except that when it's set so it's just opened fully, it won't close enough. It is really hard to start the first time unless the choke is fully closed. It will start, but it takes a lot of pumping the accelerator and grinding the starter. A lot.......... If it's fully choked, it starts right up.
Really frustrating.
Thanks for the suggestion
Tom

[Kahuna]

Just convert it to an electric choke.
Inexpensive & easy

[40cpe]

I don't know anything about those carbs, but if it has a hot air choke maybe it isn't getting enough hot air to open it on a warm engine. Check for vacuum at the hot air connection and a reason why warm air isn't getting there. If you put another carb with a hot air choke on it you could have the same problem.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

Just convert it to an electric choke.
Inexpensive & easy

Originally Posted by 40cpe

... if it has a hot air choke maybe it isn't getting enough hot air to open it on a warm engine. Check for vacuum at the hot air connection and a reason why warm air isn't getting there. If you put another carb with a hot air choke on it you could have the same problem.

Yes an oem '56 teapot carb has a fair amount of plumbing for hot air to the choke. I've never had my hands on one but here's some photos of an ECZ-A intake like you probably have.....
There's a small steel tube that runs L to R inside the exhaust crossover passage under the carb that is the source of heat. That tube often burns thru and clogs the choke air passages with exhaust carbon deposits.
Many other early Fords have the choke air heat come from a fitting on the passenger side exhaust manifold, over the valve cover, with fewer similar problems.
Plugging the air passages on the intake manifold and using an electric or manual choke cover is a very common solution. I have an electric choke cover for mine.
.

[Kahuna]

Converting to an electric choke is the best 20 bucks you'll ever spend

[LOWRIDER]

Originally Posted by thomaswatk

Thanks for all the responses. The carb seems to work fine, it's the choke that's the problem. When I set it so it closes when cold, it won't open far enough when warm, and when I set it open when the engine is hot, it won't close when it gets cold. The spring seems to be ok, and it opens and closes partially, but not far enough. Maybe I'll look for a new or different spring.
Thanks again for all the good thoughts and info.
Tom

When the choke spring actually acts like that it needs replacing.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by thomaswatk

The carb seems to work fine, it's the choke that's the problem. When I set it so it closes when cold, it won't open far enough when warm, and when I set it open when the engine is hot, it won't close when it gets cold. The spring seems to be ok, and it opens and closes partially, but not far enough. Maybe I'll look for a new or different spring.
Thanks again for all the good thoughts and info.
Tom

Assuming the lever for the choke butterfly valve is engaged into the spring... and everything else checks out, yes it sounds like you should replace the spring.
I'm not sure how specific, that yr model only?, the teapot choke spring covers are.
.
(newer carb in example photo)

[scicala]

In '55 and '56 on Holley teapot four barrel carbs, the choke thermostat springs were wound in the opposite direction of the later carbs (counter clockwise to go leaner instead of clockwise). So you can use a lot of different caps, or springs available online, but you must remove the spring and install it upside down to change it for opposite rotation on the teapot carbs. Same goes for the electric Holley caps out there.

Sal

[Herman Munster]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

Yes an oem '56 teapot carb has a fair amount of plumbing for hot air to the choke. I've never had my hands on one but here's some photos of an ECZ-A intake like you probably have.....
There's a small steel tube that runs L to R inside the exhaust crossover passage under the carb that is the source of heat. That tube often burns thru and clogs the choke air passages with exhaust carbon deposits.
Many other early Fords have the choke air heat come from a fitting on the passenger side exhaust manifold, with fewer similar problems.
Plugging the air passages on the intake manifold and using an electric or manual choke cover is a very common solution. I have an electric choke cover for mine.
.

Odd, the choke plumbing on my sedan looks nothing like this. Is this T-Bird specific? My car is an early 56 built on 10/21/55.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by thomaswatk

It is really hard to start the first time unless the choke is fully closed. It will start, but it takes a lot of pumping the accelerator and grinding the starter. A lot.......... If it's fully choked, it starts right up. Tom

I'm gonna suggest something different based upon what you described above.
I have a 292 but mine has the 2-bbl similar to the old flathead carbs. If you leave it sit for 3 days, you would need to crank the engine forever because the gas has drained out of the float chamber in that time. Is the teapot prone to this phenomenum also?
Mine is a '55 and they all had manual chokes. I've never needed to pull the choke out all the way to start the engine unless it is zero degrees outside, but if its a mere 30 degrees, pulling the choke out less than halfway and it starts right up.
So, maybe you should pop the top off the teapot after letting it sit a few days and see if there's any gas in the float chamber.
If the choke really is at fault, why not just remove that cap off the choke and get one of those cheap manual conversion kits. It's a really cheap fix and you can control how much choke you want.

[Daves55Sedan]

I am answering my own question here: I just saw another thread on this board started by Grumpy Rick where he said; "I would like to put an electric pump on my 55 T-Bird. I start it seldom and the carb is usually dry."
Okay so apparently, the teapots do run dry also if they are left sitting for a while!
Hmmmmm.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

... I just saw another thread on this board started by Grumpy Rick where he said; "I would like to put an electric pump on my 55 T-Bird. I start it seldom and the carb is usually dry."
Okay so apparently, the teapots do run dry also if they are left sitting for a while!
...

Originally Posted by Grumpy Rick

My '55 Bird has the original 292 motor with an aftermarket Edelbrock carb, and has been converted to 12V.......

but any carb will dry up if it sits long enough

.