09-25-2017, 09:46 AM | #1 |
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Engine ID
Looking for some help here ID'ing a ford engine, currently sitting in a Willy's CJ.
I removed the starter to look for block casting #, but only could find the date code 2G19? Where else could the elusive ID # be on the block? bell housing looks to be a 6 bolt... but one bolt missing The intake code # is C3O(or is it a D?)E Driver exhaust is C3OE Pass exhaust is C4OE Autolite 2b Carb # 5752305 I'm convinced this engine may be pieced together, but the goal of ID'ing block is to replace manifolds with headers. I've narrowed down to either a 260 or 289; this probably doesn't affect headers anyway does it? thanks for any help or guidance to nail down ID. |
09-25-2017, 10:26 AM | #2 |
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Re: Engine ID
If you find a number on the block with '6015' in the middle that's the block number.
Here's a link for help finding the engine block casting number. Pick the webpage you like... https://www.google.com/search?q=imag...utf-8&oe=utf-8 First letter "C" = 1960's Second character = year of that decade, so 3 = 1963 and 4 = 1964 Parts can and often did carry thru for a few years following their initial introduction. How to read Ford casting number and date codes... http://www.fordification.com/tech/datecodes.htm . Last edited by dmsfrr; 09-25-2017 at 11:02 AM. |
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09-25-2017, 11:01 AM | #3 |
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Re: Engine ID
Thanks for the info. Shouldn't the "6015" block # be right behind the starter? Why wouldn't it be right next to the date code?
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09-25-2017, 11:26 AM | #4 |
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Re: Engine ID
It might be seen from underneath on a flat spot near the generator/alternator, or could be on the other side of the block? (I haven't had my hands on a 302 since the early 80's)
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09-25-2017, 12:21 PM | #5 |
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Re: Engine ID
There were several places numbers were cast depending on year and displacement. Here is a good run down link. http://www.diyford.com/engine-block-...ll-block-ford/
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09-25-2017, 12:22 PM | #6 |
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Re: Engine ID
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The block number should be behind the starter motor. Probably have to remove the starter to see it. The date code on your block (2G19) I believe means July 19, 1962, which may mean it's a later 221 from the '62 model year, or a 260 for '62 or '63 model year. Casting numbers for 221's should be C20E. ('62 Fairlane only) C30E for 260's C40E-C & F for '64 289's C5AE-E for '65 289's C6AE-C for '66 289's Sal |
09-25-2017, 03:39 PM | #7 |
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Re: Engine ID
I'm guessing its an 221 from the date code. Look behind the intake for the block casting number on those early blocks.
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09-25-2017, 03:58 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Engine ID
Quote:
Here's a quote from the link/page rotorwrench provided. "The casting number was located at the rear of the block at the valley-to-manifold rail in 1962...." . Last edited by dmsfrr; 09-25-2017 at 06:26 PM. |
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09-25-2017, 04:55 PM | #9 |
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Re: Engine ID
If it's '62-'64 vintage, it's a five bolt bell housing, which is why one is "missing".
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09-25-2017, 05:30 PM | #10 |
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Re: Engine ID
Thanks all for the thought & resources on this. I'm going to get the degreaser & wire brush back out tonight for more searching. I'll post updates/findings and go from there.
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09-25-2017, 06:38 PM | #11 |
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Re: Engine ID
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09-25-2017, 07:53 PM | #12 |
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Re: Engine ID
Back of the block for the win! Pic attached. C2OE-6015-J
So assembly date is July 19, 1962 built for the Fairlane. Is this undoubtedly a 221 or a chance of an early run 260? |
09-25-2017, 08:01 PM | #13 |
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Re: Engine ID
Looks like an early 260... (just from the results of a quick google search on the casting number)
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/smal...early-run.html http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...ng-number.html https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ord-eng.27228/ |
09-25-2017, 08:01 PM | #14 |
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Re: Engine ID
If you pulled a cyl. head you could see if the bore is 3.5" (221) or 3.8" (260).
Sal |
09-25-2017, 08:26 PM | #15 | |
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Re: Engine ID
Quote:
This might be the end all confirmation... |
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09-25-2017, 08:42 PM | #16 |
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Re: Engine ID
Measuring the bore is the sure way to tell what it is. Its surely a 5 bolt engine. Pictures of the front of the engine may tell me from looking at it. 221's had a lot of different parts on them. Also I have seen several 221's in Willy's Jeeps. Sure don't think they came that way.
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09-25-2017, 09:03 PM | #17 | |
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Re: Engine ID
Quote:
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09-25-2017, 09:31 PM | #18 |
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Re: Engine ID
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09-26-2017, 11:26 AM | #19 |
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Re: Engine ID
I hope it's a 260 for your sake. 221's must be pretty enemic, especially with that super short stroke. Not a lot of torque.
Sal |
09-26-2017, 12:11 PM | #20 |
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Re: Engine ID
A 260 with a 4 bbl intake , a set of good 289 heads, a mild cam, ( I used a Sig Erson Hi-Flow 1 ) and a reasonably sized carb, ( 600cfm or less will make a good combination for your jeep if you are geared properly . I once had a combination like this in a '63 ranchero with 4:11's was a good street racer if you could go from a rolling start. I beat a lot of cars with much bigger engines. in your jeep for off road it would be good, not necessarily great because of small displacement, but that is where your choice of gearing comes in. I once had a '66 CJ5 with the buick V6 a 2bbl carb the standard 3 sp and 2 sp transfer case, but it also had an overdrive. the gear ratio in this case was 4:27. It worked great and it took me pretty much where ever I wanted to go. I am a fan of the little 260, I do not think that it gets enough credit for what it can do. they were pretty hot in the Sunbeam Tigers. 221's on the other hand are pretty much useless these days
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09-26-2017, 08:06 PM | #21 |
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Re: Engine ID
Won't be the cleanest engine bay you've seen. Here are more pics of the transplant. Mated to the T90 3speed and twin stick D18 TC with final drive ratio of 5.38. 40mph is all I'm brave enough for!
Space is a commodity... remote oil filter and electric fuel pump in place. You might notice the drivers side manifold has some nice engineering to it. Dumping out the front and down/around underneath steering parts. I'm looking to replace with a header I can hopefully squeeze by the steering box, or worst case get something fabbed up. Passenger side manifold recently blew out - forcing me to address both sides now. If there are other ways to tell, without pulling head and measuring bore, between 260 and 221, please let me know. As of now, it seems all signs point to 260. Thanks again for help and info. |
09-26-2017, 08:44 PM | #22 |
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Re: Engine ID
From the pictures it looks like a early 260 to me.
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