Barn find 1931 SW 160-B

[burner31]

See my avator, found this 1931 SW 160 -B, been sitting in storage since 1959, all there, but the interior fabric is mostly (all) gone, save the back seat which has the fold down arm rest (strange for a '31), no wiring, needs a windshield and one rear door window, no rust issues, engine complete with good compression, radiator holds water, hoses look good, paid $3500...good deal?
Found it in Fort Worth area, took it back home to Shawnee Oklahoma with me.
Will do a full carb re-build, full tune up, oil change, check tranny and rear end fluids...and then fire her up. Once I get her running I'll move to the brakes, after that it's just make-up issues to make her pretty.
So what do you all think...good barn find?

[portside]

Sounds like a great deal!!! You might think about also dropping thr engine oil pan and remove any sludge.

[Purdy Swoft]

That is a good find !!!

[Mike V. Florida]

Good deal, great deal!!!

[Roadster62]

Great find! Welcome to the Ford Barn. Bob

[Hoogah]

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Awesome. Love a survivor. Post some photos!!

[juke joint johnny]

Great Find!!! Post some pictures & welcome to the Barn

[Juggler]

Originally Posted by portside

Sounds like a great deal!!! You might think about also dropping thr engine oil pan and remove any sludge.

Don't think about it, DO IT

Your motor will love you forever, or certainly much longer than if you don't.

Valve chest too.

Great find, nice price

[C26Pinelake]

That is a great find, there are several recent posts concerning what you should do systematically to get it started and on the road. One post in the last couple months is very comprehensive, welcome to Fordbarn.
Wayne

[burner31]

I've seen pro and con about dropping the oil pan, pro is...cleans out the mud...con is ...oil pump falls out and is a pain to get back in and pan leaks.
I have the pan gasket, I was thinking fresh oil, run it 20 -30 hours drain/fill and repeat. Do this several times.
Seeking Advice...should I drop the pan and fight the oil pump and the leaks?

Waiting until after Christmas to really get into it, been doing small things, cleaning and fixing small items, ordering parts, but the real fun starts after the new year. Picked up the car Dec. 3rd, 2014

[Gumpy]

Congrats....nice find!

[Kurt in NJ]

This pan is off an engine that was sitting 15 years, most likely detergent oil because it was still dirty looking on the dipstick, engines that have "clean" oil on the dipstick have looked much worse, the "clean" oil was dirty when the engine last run, but because it was non detergent the dirt settles out---I have seen it deep enough to cover oil pump screen.

Have found many bug remains, mice, coins, rocks, sand and rags(once a whole towel)

many times the spring that holds the oil pump in place eaten away and broken---expect to replace it

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by burner31

I've seen pro and con about dropping the oil pan, pro is...cleans out the mud...con is ...oil pump falls out and is a pain to get back in and pan leaks.
I have the pan gasket, I was thinking fresh oil, run it 20 -30 hours drain/fill and repeat. Do this several times.
Seeking Advice...should I drop the pan and fight the oil pump and the leaks?

Waiting until after Christmas to really get into it, been doing small things, cleaning and fixing small items, ordering parts, but the real fun starts after the new year. Picked up the car Dec. 3rd, 2014

I would most definitely pull the oil pan and clean out the sludge. What life is left in your engine may be in jeapardy . Will it run without it. Yes, is it doing it any good , no . It is wishfull thinking to think that the warm oil will melt all the sludge away to drain out the pan, while hoping thrh oil pump has enough area to actually pull oil in and distribute to lubricate the engine .

I do service /restoration work in my area and its really not a big deal. Messy, yes , necessary, I would say if you care about the engine yes .
Oil pan gaskets are cheap, engines are not.

Use a set screw plug either homemade or from the suppliers in the side oil galley hole after removing the slotted plug . It will hold up the oil pump. Also use 4 of the modern pan clips to hold the pan gasket and push the pan up through them to make installation easier . Not all that difficult . Pan clean out is an evening job .
Be sure to remove the tray and reinstall - search the site for oil pan tray removal
FYI out club does start ups every year as an event in cars that have been sitting for years. I was thankful I pulled the pan on one of mine that we did as it had been sitting since 74 . No way could the oil pump have pulled oil trough rj the muck over an inch thick around the oil pump

I saved the engine doing so...
You may also want to pull the valve cover and inspect/clean as well making sure tr main feeds are ok - usually are but it's worth the time to make sure all is clean

Larry Shepard

[larrys40]

Kurt has an excellent point about the spring at the bottom of the oil pump . It puts pressure on the pump to keep it engaged with the oil pump drive gear
Many times the springs get eaten away by the corrosive elements

Larry s

[armchair67]

Neat car! More pics please- I do love me a good barn find or other original cars that have been hiding away for eons.

[burner31]

Very good points from Larry and Kurt, gaskets are easy, complete engine rebuild not so much. As much as I want to start the engine, I want the engine to work, and work right.
Guess I will order the valve/intake/exhaust gaskets.
I like that trick to keep the oil pump from dropping..

[RobertB]

Back when I was in college and the dinosaurs roamed the earth, I would run a quart of AT fluid in the oil for a change or two. A power mechanics teacher at the college did this and said the AT fluid contained a high percentage of detergents and would clean out the engine.

He did this especially before tearing down an engine to re-build...said it saved a lot of time cleaning the parts for re-assembly.

[Tom from Drippin']

WARNING The slotted plug has pipe threads.
I used a pipe thread plug, drilled and tapped for a long machine screw to hold the pump in place.
I seem to remember that a radiator drain fitting can be used, but have never tried it.

[mshmodela]

Ah a late 1931.. great find, great price.

[Ron in Quincy]

After you finish the engine clean up and start on the wheel bearings and brakes , I would also suggest you check the back lash in the rear end; often times in the past the rear end was not taken down and the pre load on the pinion gear not checked; if it is sloppy you can lose the rear end when the pinion gear does not mesh properly with the ring gear; the result is losing 2 or 3 teeth on the pinion gear; it then takes a new matched ring and pinion to correct the problem.

Ron