30 Pickup Sheetmetal Work

[Flop]

there is some bondo abuse in the doors



no body line on the back of the cab



a little rough around the edges








found out why the body line was gone




door top brazed on






garnish moulding also brazed on



every screw had to be drilled out or had to have a nut welded to it







looks like a mouse and some spiders found a home here!





this one has me confused...



getting closer!

[Flop]

gotta figure out how to make the pictures smaller















some weirdo cement in the pillar?



rot





made the top of the pillar to fix up what was going on




remade evrything at the top the bottom where there was rot and where the tank sits

[zzlegend]

Good to see you starting another one Flop. Keep the pics coming. And don't make the pictures any smaller. Some of us are old and half blind. Good luck and Merry Christmas to you. Mark.

[Ken Ehrenhofer]

Is that Flop at it again???? Good to see your photos as it must mean you are getting well. Merry Christmas to you and keep the photos coming...Love it, Ken

[Spokes]

Thanks for the pix's. Nice work. !!!!

[Tom Bellfoy]

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I dont want to hijack your thread but the devil made me do it - I refer to the 24th. picture - you will notice a round hole in the framework of the front pillar just where the cowl starts to curve and just under the riveted bracket to which the dash would connect.
Who all knows what that hole is for ?

[Flop]

hah thanks ZZ!!

thanks Ken ! Arm is doing ok . still hurts and alot less strength but i gotta keep pushin on !

thanks spokes !


no idea what thats for stovepipe

doors are rotten on top and repaired with brass




first time putting a skin on up top !





drivers side took a good hit .



we may be looking for another door or a top soon . but the bottom will need a full skin as well

[flatheadz-forever]

nicee nice much nicer than the cab I started with

[juke joint johnny]

Glad to see you back Flop!!! Is that Your 1/2 a Coupe in red Primer!

Looks like a Solid one now .WeLL Done !!!

[QGolden]

Thanks for starting another Photo session. I always learn a lot from you.

[Flop]

flatheadz this cab isnt the best but def workable !


juke joint no that is not my coupe.customers.

thanks Q


now all the cement crap in the top of the pillars makes sense !!!

we have a coupe cowl !!!!

[30 A Ripper]

Flop,
trying to figure out how previous owner got some wiring thru the firewall drivers side corner. you have a front view of your cab. Are there any holes/gaps where the slanted wood floor meets the flat wood?

I can't figure how to send pictures and don't know how to find a URL??

Thanks, Dick Lakeland Florida

[30 A Ripper]

finally got a partial view on that firewall corner and found some butchery due to someone installing 70's vintage fiberglass front fenders. unfortunately no way to sleeve or otherwise protect the wires from vibration and possible short circuiting.

thanks anyway

[Flop]

sorry i couldnt help 30


well shes a little rough






things escalated quickly



why dont they make pickup truck subrails ? tudor stuff isnt even close !!



luckily i had some old pickup subrails in stock . they have to be spliced in and the tudor new subrail had to be narrowed on the outer edge . nowhere close to being right out of the box

[rollingsculpture]

check the width of that repro rear sub against a real one you may find a serious difference in the sub being narrow and the curve being off where the cab wraps onto it

[rollingsculpture]

check the width of that repro rear sub against a real one you may find a serious difference in the sub being narrow and the curve being off where the cab wraps onto it also the repro is missing a section that attaches to the rear door post of the cab , look at the comparison pic of my old orig and the repro i had to fab a piece to go there. can put up a pic of that too if you like

[Vin-tin]

Flop,
Rollingsculture is right about the repo rear crossmembers. I bought one. There was no curve where the rear of the body wraps under and it needed some metal added at the sides to make it right. Plus it was flimsy compared to my original. I ended up not using it and made my own out of 16 gauge, using the original as a pattern. It turned out great and looks much nicer than that repo crap.

I'll be watching your progress very carefully on this one Flop. It looks as though your cab is in the same state (of disassembly) as mine was when I bought it.
Keep it up, and keeps the pictures flowing. I love your work and learn a lot from you.

[Purdy Swoft]

Its good to see you back !!!!!!! It would be very interesting to see more pics of how you repaired the cowl, where the tank sits. Keep up the good work.

[sidhartha]

Originally Posted by stovepipe

I dont want to hijack your thread but the devil made me do it - I refer to the 24th. picture - you will notice a round hole in the framework of the front pillar just where the cowl starts to curve and just under the riveted bracket to which the dash would connect.
Who all knows what that hole is for ?

I'm guessing it is an indexing hole that was used in the manufacturing of the cab. Sure curious to know for sure.

[Flop]

thanks for all the info Mike ! I either got lucky or they stepped up the rear crossmember game .

hey vin tin . nothing flimsy about this one . 2 minor mods and it is as good as stock

purdy ... shrank and stretched a piece of metal to look stock and welded it in . nothing to crazy

only 2 things i had to do get this crossmember to stock specs ..a little trim and weld on a new edge




and bracing under the bolt holes

weld through primer on both sides






turns into these

B pillar to subrail .16 gauge sheetmetal



lets build a truck !