Horn Reed

Good Evening,



has anyone ever figured out how to fix a reed for the pre '15 Model T's, when all it does is to give a short, tired honk in the beginning?



I didn't find anything in the archives...



Thanks in advance,



Richard



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I have a '14 T and I bought a new reed and it didn't sound right, so the next swap meet I went to the vender and tried 3 or 4 before I found one that sounded right. From the look on his face, he didn't like it very well, but I got one that worked. A lot of people can squeeze it and nothing, but you have to use a little english when squeezed. Wolf !!



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... bought a new one and it didn't sound right, that's exactly it. Unfortunately, the next Model T parts vendor is several thousand miles away, and I need it for technical inspection in Germany; they require the horn to work (!). I'll just try to make the one I have work.



Richard



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Well, that would be like a defeat.. Try bend the reed REALLY carefully - I've succeded improving the sound of bulbhorns for bikes & light motorcycles.

I've read about hard German safety inspections also back in the T days - Ford had to provide special steering gears & was it special brakes? for cars exported to Germany. Is this something you've also heard, or have I mixed something up?

I'd love to see pictures of the special parts on German T's - if there were any.

Regards, Roger up in Sweden



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I think Roger is commenting on the model A.

Germany (and one U.S.state) would not allow the first model A to be sold because it did not have two separate brake systems.

So Ford stooped for a couple of weeks and started over with the extra seyt of brakes shoes on the rear wheels which operated off the hand brake lever independant of the foot brakes. That was allowed and pasted the test and requirements.

The first few model A's were called Model AR ( A Revisited or revised after the 1903 model A). Henry said the T ran so many years that they would start again with "A".

A few AR's are still around, especailly the west coast.

After the brake design change the "R" was dropped.



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Now I've found where I read about this - it's at the MTFCA site, from Bruce Mc Calley's Model T Ford Encyclopedia.

http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/worm.htm

Here we can se a worm gear - maybe used on cars exported to Germany. There's comments on brake wires from the pedal to the rear wheels too, probably on cars meant for Germany. I wonder how the transmission brake drum was used on those cars - maybe actuated by the hand brake lever?

I'm also curious why ol' Henry didn't use the worm steering gear for all cars - was it only because of costs - or because the whole T steering system was tuned to be just strong enough - a better steering gear meant higher road stresses on the drag link & tie rod, so everything should have to be redesigned to work on rough roads around the world?

Asking again, Anybody seen a T equipped as described in the link - in Germany or elsewhere?

Best regards, Roger in Sweden



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">
<ul>[*]Worm steering gear &amp; brake cables on a T[/list]

I saw the same thing and thought it would be the thing for my speedster project... of course, it would help if I had a contact for T parts in Germany where they *had* to have the worm steering... I understand it replaces everything from the drag link to the steering wheel nut (no 4/1 reduction box on top)... anyone in Europe have access to (or seen) one of these?



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

It's probably much easier to find an accessory steering worm gear unit at a US swap meet. Guess not many T parts survived the search for scrap metal in Germany during the war? (haven't been at German swap meets)

There were many independent accessory makers of steering gears, I've found one (probably US made - no markings) here in Sweden - but had to weld a crack in the cast iron housing, so I haven't decided if I dare to use it yet on my future speedster project..

Regards, Roger



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

you can make most reeds work. long articles have been published on the subject. but if you are careful, take your knife and carefully slide it under the thin reed. it gets deeper as it gets wider then you may need to bend it back down flat, which is had, so be careful. should be able to get some noise out of it, a good sound is hard to do.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

I have a '14 T and I bought a new reed and it didn't sound right, so the next swap meet I went to the vender and tried 3 or 4 before I found one that sounded right. From the look on his face, he didn't like it very well, but I got one that worked. A lot of people can squeeze it and nothing, but you have to use a little english when squeezed. Wolf !!



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

... bought a new one and it didn't sound right, that's exactly it. Unfortunately, the next Model T parts vendor is several thousand miles away, and I need it for technical inspection in Germany; they require the horn to work (!). I'll just try to make the one I have work.



Richard



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Well, that would be like a defeat.. Try bend the reed REALLY carefully - I've succeded improving the sound of bulbhorns for bikes & light motorcycles.

I've read about hard German safety inspections also back in the T days - Ford had to provide special steering gears & was it special brakes? for cars exported to Germany. Is this something you've also heard, or have I mixed something up?

I'd love to see pictures of the special parts on German T's - if there were any.

Regards, Roger up in Sweden



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

I think Roger is commenting on the model A.

Germany (and one U.S.state) would not allow the first model A to be sold because it did not have two separate brake systems.

So Ford stooped for a couple of weeks and started over with the extra seyt of brakes shoes on the rear wheels which operated off the hand brake lever independant of the foot brakes. That was allowed and pasted the test and requirements.

The first few model A's were called Model AR ( A Revisited or revised after the 1903 model A). Henry said the T ran so many years that they would start again with "A".

A few AR's are still around, especailly the west coast.

After the brake design change the "R" was dropped.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Now I've found where I read about this - it's at the MTFCA site, from Bruce Mc Calley's Model T Ford Encyclopedia.

http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/worm.htm

Here we can se a worm gear - maybe used on cars exported to Germany. There's comments on brake wires from the pedal to the rear wheels too, probably on cars meant for Germany. I wonder how the transmission brake drum was used on those cars - maybe actuated by the hand brake lever?

I'm also curious why ol' Henry didn't use the worm steering gear for all cars - was it only because of costs - or because the whole T steering system was tuned to be just strong enough - a better steering gear meant higher road stresses on the drag link & tie rod, so everything should have to be redesigned to work on rough roads around the world?

Asking again, Anybody seen a T equipped as described in the link - in Germany or elsewhere?

Best regards, Roger in Sweden



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">
<ul>[*]Worm steering gear &amp; brake cables on a T[/list]

I saw the same thing and thought it would be the thing for my speedster project... of course, it would help if I had a contact for T parts in Germany where they *had* to have the worm steering... I understand it replaces everything from the drag link to the steering wheel nut (no 4/1 reduction box on top)... anyone in Europe have access to (or seen) one of these?



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

It's probably much easier to find an accessory steering worm gear unit at a US swap meet. Guess not many T parts survived the search for scrap metal in Germany during the war? (haven't been at German swap meets)

There were many independent accessory makers of steering gears, I've found one (probably US made - no markings) here in Sweden - but had to weld a crack in the cast iron housing, so I haven't decided if I dare to use it yet on my future speedster project..

Regards, Roger



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

you can make most reeds work. long articles have been published on the subject. but if you are careful, take your knife and carefully slide it under the thin reed. it gets deeper as it gets wider then you may need to bend it back down flat, which is had, so be careful. should be able to get some noise out of it, a good sound is hard to do.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">