Rodding Rad from Top or Bottom

[sethkestenbaum]

Any thoughts/opinions on if it is better to rod the radiator by removing the top tank or the bottom tank?

My 1929 funnel neck radiator is now "at the shop" and I am hoping to help out in the rodding process (as well as possibly complete the 1930 service bulletin work). The owner of the shop is an experienced antique car radiator guy (he is doing two Model T radiators on Monday before getting to mine) and asked me if I preferred him to remove the top or bottom tank. I had no answer and told him I would get back to him.

[QGolden]

I have absolutely no experience here, but wouldn't you remove both, so you see light through the tubes?

[1931 flamingo]

If you're going to do the s/bulletin work the top tank is going to have to come off.
Paul in CT

[Mitch//pa]

The man is an experienced antique radiator guy so what procedure does he recommend in rodding it. I find it odd that he is asking you what to do.

[Russ/40]

In my minds eye it seems to make the most sense to rod against the direction of flow. Small items wedged in the upper core don't have to be pushed ll the way through the core. Bottom toward the top.

[sethkestenbaum]

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I think the radiator pro asked my opinion because he would prefer to remove the bottom tank (reverse flow of the water); however, it is easier to address the service bulletin if he removes the top tank --- even though it can be done WITHOUT removing the top tank.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

In my minds eye it seems to make the most sense to rod against the direction of flow. Small items wedged in the upper core don't have to be pushed ll the way through the core. Bottom toward the top.

I'am with you on this one.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with Russ and George.

If I have to rod one of my radiators I would remove the bottom tank and rod it out from the bottom up.

[Craig Lewis]

#1 I rodded mine from the bottom. There was quite a buildup of pebbles, rust chunks, wood, grease & feathers...yes feathers.
Even though two radiator shops said it had excellent flow....I think it had 11 or 12 tubes plugged solid.

#2 The tubes have a soldered seam which is extremely fragile and if you encounter a blockage don't force it because it can be corroded and very thin at the blockage point. I used some super long drill bits and gently twisted them by hand using plenty of vinegar and water to backflush out the debris. It's easy to pop the seam beside a blockage and nearly impossible to flow solder onto the corroded brass. (don't ask how I know)

#3 I found the clear liquid flux most useful and a regular hardware store propane bottle torch flowed the solder nicely.

PS one other thing....removing the bottom tank gave the opportunity to re-rivet and sweat the bottom strap in place. The rivets are from inside and peened over at the outside bottom of strap. I can see that being a big leak issue with them mounting tabs torquing and bouncing.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Maybe "Antique Radiator Guy" means that HE is OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLD!!! (ME TOO, 77 1/2!) The Dog is ONLY 48! Bill W.

[George Miller]

Good Idea Craig.
I used some super long drill bits and gently twisted them by hand using plenty of vinegar and water to backflush out the debris.

[sethkestenbaum]

Thanks all. I'll let you know how it goes.

[Gary Karr]

I have taken several 28/28 round tube radiators apart and removed both upper and lower tanks and side straps. You can probably get by with removing only the lower tank but if you remove both, you will be able to check to see if there are any leaks in any of the tubes. With both tanks removed, you can then easily sleeve those leaking tubes as the radiator shop reassembling the radiator will have to seal the sleeve tube on both the top and bottom. Also, you can repair any cracks in any of the original brass pieces when completely dissembled.