Battery cut-off

[katy]

I like the Caterpillar switch, 125A Continuous, 1000A Intermittent duty, keyed, reasonable price.

http://www.tornadoparts.com/caterpil...switch-7n0718/

[katy]

Did I miss any? Pick your primary poison

Have a friend that once told me he was having problems w/the throttle linkage heating up quite dramatically and was having problems starting his A. He put an extra ground connection between the engine and frame to cure it.

[Keith True]

I once saw a popout cable glowing,it was the only ground path that was working at the time.I have seen discolored fuel lines,and found later that they had been the primary ground for the starter.If the rear mounts are installed properly there should be zero juice passing through them.

[Patrick L.]

With all this talk of poor grounding, it is important that the frame connection be clean and correct. I like to add an extra heavy cable from the frame to the transmitter.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by G&N Farms

Thanks all, I have seen the ones at the starter. I know there isn't a lot of room in the cab and didn't want it to be visible. The seat pops up very easily and has plenty of room to put a switch in. I didn't want to cut any sheet metal but I will cut the wood in the floor. I'll play with it and see what works.

As far as the draw, I'll find it, only happens once in a while. The P/U has been sitting for 20 + years, I found out. It has a few issues from sitting I need to work on but I'll get it sorted out.

"didn't want it to be visible"....
Here are pictures of my '30 roadster install. Sanitary, out of sight and pretty easy. Best part is that it can be switched in about a second from sitting position, if emergency occurs. Think safety first when driving an antique car with possible wire shorts, etc.... First thing turned on when starting car and first thing turned off when leaving car . Fool proof

[Mike V. Florida]

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Originally Posted by katy

Have a friend that once told me he was having problems w/the throttle linkage heating up quite dramatically and was having problems starting his A. He put an extra ground connection between the engine and frame to cure it.

Lets add the fuel line to the list of not so good ground paths.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Lets add the fuel line to the list of not so good ground paths.

post 43

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Lets add the fuel line to the list of not so good ground paths.

Post 40.

[MikeK]

Just so everybody is clear on this, a battery cutoff switch alone is NOT a safety shutoff! The engine will continue to run, with the genny or alternator powering the entire electrical system- even if you have a hot smoking short circuit.

If also want it to function as an engine kill to stop generated power to the electrical system you need a double pole switch like this:

The heavy lugs break the battery. The smaller (rated 20A) are wired to break the ignition and, if you have them, electric fuel shutoff and fuel pump. THAT stops the engine in an emergency and in turn stops the running genny or alternator from powering a damaged electrical system independent of the battery. If you have an alternator you need to be careful not to wire this switch to break the entire alternator output from the output lug. That is usually fatal for the alternator. Many racing sanctions demand this type of switch and they can also be wired into the alternator internal circuit for a safe instant kill as an alternative to splicing into the ignition and fuel supply.

Of course, in a running engine electrical emergency you could just remember to shut off BOTH the ignition and battery, but this dual switch makes it simple.

[G&N Farms]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

"didn't want it to be visible"....
Here are pictures of my '30 roadster install. Sanitary, out of sight and pretty easy. Best part is that it can be switched in about a second from sitting position, if emergency occurs. Think safety first when driving an antique car with possible wire shorts, etc.... First thing turned on when starting car and first thing turned off when leaving car . Fool proof

That's what I was looking for, thank you..

[Terry, NJ]

This could be the cause of many reports of vapor lock that we hear of. The fuel lines I'm talking about.
Terry

Originally Posted by Keith True

I once saw a popout cable glowing,it was the only ground path that was working at the time.I have seen discolored fuel lines,and found later that they had been the primary ground for the starter.If the rear mounts are installed properly there should be zero juice passing through them.

[tinkirk]

Originally Posted by G&N Farms

I've had the battery go dead a few times overnight. After reading a lot of post, it might be the cutout on the generator. Maybe, maybe not. Anyway, I am going to put a battery disconnect of some kind.

Should I put it in-between starter and battery at the starter or is there somewhere else that would work better? I don't know if I want a big-ol switch hanging off the starter. Just asking.

Thanks.

i mounted mine in the floor between the seats and used the grounding wire when switch is off there is no power to anything
Tinkirk Terry

[V4F]

ive been using the red handle with good luck . I break the neg side (less arching) from the battery , no power anywhere . mounted in cab below seat , out side would be a hassle & waste as anyone could use it . BUT I do have an emergency switch (hidden well , even from me at times) because I have electric door & trunk …………… alls good

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

This kit has a mount that bolts onto the starter motor,

Mikes Afordable M14300DK

I also use this on both of my rigs. Has worked well. I think you can get the kit from most all of the vendors.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

I pull the fuse that has been added to the top of the starter. I k now that this does not disconnect the starter power, but disconnects all other power.


What are the downsides to this? Most issues seem to be caused by generator/cutoff and lights-wring-switch issues from what others have posted.