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06-02-2010, 03:01 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 61
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Original vs Modern plate
Hello All,
I'm considering going back to the original plates in my distributor. It seems to me to be easier and more accurate to set the points with the original set up. I don't recall why I converted to the modern plates as I didn't have problems with the original. About the only thing I can think of is that I may have been concerned that the block on the movable point arm would wear down more than the modern. Even so, I doubt it could wear so quickly as to be an issue. This caused me to wonder which set up is in more prevalent use today, and why. Thank you. |
06-02-2010, 03:06 PM | #2 |
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Location: Southeastern Connecticut
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
All stock, and never a problem... as long as the pigtail wire's in good shape.
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06-02-2010, 03:07 PM | #3 |
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Location: Mpls, MN
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
Original, because it's like the energizer bunny.......it keeps going.......and going.......and going!
If it works, why fix it until it's broke? |
06-02-2010, 03:10 PM | #4 |
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
when i ran points, i used the modern top plate. The new points seem not wear down as fast. And you can go into any auto zone, oriely's, ect. and pick up a set of points when your on the road. I dont think they would carry the original points. We drove a roadster to a regional tour one weekend and it had original point in it. We drove around 500 miles and the points closed twice and needed cleaning by the time the trip was over. Where as in my car the modern points worked fine
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06-02-2010, 03:10 PM | #5 |
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Location: La Verne, Ca.
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
I like the new style setup. The points align well not that you can't align the originals but less hassel. The condenser is inside and farther from the heat and replacements of both are down the street at your local parts house. Just my 2 cents worth, your may vary?
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06-02-2010, 03:33 PM | #6 |
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Location: Amana IA
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
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One thing I did use that wasn't available during Model A production is the high-flex multi-strand wire with silicon insulation from the lower to the upper plate. This wire is by far superior to the original wire Henry had in stock. - Ron/IA PS. Another reason I like to use original is when a non-Model A'er asks to see the ignition after staring at the ram-horn distributor; they are amazed. |
06-02-2010, 03:56 PM | #7 |
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Location: Madison, NJ
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
Wearing block and contact failures are generally the result of cheaply made parts, which can include the cam. Badly made points and good ones are available in both modern and original format. Back when the modern points were still actually fairly modern, it was harder to get bad modern ones than bad original style. The aftermarket has since cured this problem by supplying bad points for all aplications, but good ones are still available.
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06-02-2010, 04:24 PM | #8 |
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Location: Fairfax, VA
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
We had a modern set fail during Monday Memorial Day parade in DC. 1.5 hours in the hot sun fooling with modern junk. It had about 1000 miles on it.
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06-02-2010, 04:40 PM | #9 |
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Location: ca.
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
i changed to moder upper & wireless lower . been very happy so far .... 3 yrs . dont have to keep setting them , buy anywhere . .............. steve
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06-02-2010, 06:34 PM | #10 |
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Location: Southern California
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
A number of years ago I modified two distributors with the "modern" lower plate prior to going on a 3500 mile tour. About 1200 miles into the tour the car started acting up. Several times it was hard to start and it began missing at cruise speed. Finally at a gas stop it refused to start. I replaced the distributor with the spare and it stared right up and ran good.
That night at the hotel I took the removed distributor apart and found a burn path on the plate traced by the slider. At the position where the spark handle is all the way up (where I was starting the car) and at the nominal 3/4 down cruise position the plate was badly burned, as was the slider. Apparantly the slider is continually sparking as it is moved and also probably due to engine vibration. When I got home from the tour I removed the second distributor and found it was also burned and going down the same road to failure. The modern lower plate with its sliding action does not provide a firm path for battery voltage to reach the points. I converted both distributors back to the way Henry ordered using the very fine multi-strand wire Bratton's offer and have never had a problem with distributors. I am a firm believer in leaving the ignition the way Henry designed it. Tom Endy |
06-02-2010, 06:50 PM | #11 |
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Location: Spruce Pine, NC
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
ran the modern upper plate for many years, believing the conventional wisdom of the time that it was better.
it was very difficult to set point gap and keep it set correctly. then I bought a car with an original type distributor and was AMAZED at how easy the gap setting process is. no more new & improved distruibutors for me! |
06-02-2010, 07:13 PM | #12 |
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Location: Ottawa, Illinois
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
Warning...the following may be graphic in nature and therefore not suitable for all A'ers. Yes, this is mine, lazy but practical . Over 3000 miles on this, and yes I have a spare with me always.
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06-02-2010, 07:24 PM | #13 |
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Location: South East NJ
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
The poor mis-understood points.
My brothers car has had the same original type points that came with the car in 1970. Keep in mind he has put thousands of miles on the car and usually runs over 50 MPH when the speed limit allows. Psychologically guys are used to changing the points every year. That was what they did with the cars they drove every day. The car must need some maintenance and the points are an easy victim. The wear block needs a nice smooth cam to not wear so much and some lubricant. Some guys are polishing their cams on a buffer before they put them on the car. Once assembled and running you much expect them to wear rapidly at first while the wear block mates to the cam. You will find as it wears in the time between adjustment will float out to years depending on how many miles you drive. Some of the modern built points have poor wear blocks. Originals style old quality points are still available, heck NOS Ford are still available for not a lot of money. I paid $5 each for the last 2 sets of NOS that I bought. I love the argument that you need to buy points anywhere. How many sets of points have failed on the road where they needed to be changed? If you have a good set of points in the car they are going to last for a VERY long time and will give you plenty of warning that they are having problems. The whole modern points thing is just a way to feed on your fears so the retailers will make money. Even Les gets in the act. He does a seminar at Hershey and is doing all his demos with a modern point set at the MARC tent (or was that MAFCA?). If you fix the dist properly the first time it is unlikely to ever fail you and not cost you much to do. P.S. I would have you all send me your used points you are throwing away, but I have 3 NOS sets that I figure will be a couple lifetime supply of points. I could used a set for my 6 cyl mustang. That set is getting worn, but it was used everyday back in the late 70's and the same points are still in the car. I just did the Memorial day parade in it. |
06-02-2010, 10:12 PM | #14 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 61
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Re: Original vs Modern plate
Thanks everyone, for the comments and the opinions.
I'm going to reinstall a new setup of original equipment in the distributor. I'm sure Bert's or Snyder's will have the quality parts you guys mentioned. |
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