Generator question

[Bruce_MO]

I've just started my '30 tudor after years of restoration and I've driven it just a couple miles. During that time, I noticed that the ammeter shows no charge when the engine is running well above an idle. It will show a discharge of 8-10 amps when I turn the headlights on, so I'm confident the ammeter is working well. After a good 5-10 minute drive, I noticed that the generator was extremely hot to the touch. Also, when I attempted to polarize the generator (jumper the two contacts of the cut-out and see a small spark, per Tom W.), I get a substantial spark like a dead short. The cut-out is a new unit from Bratton's with the diode installed, and the generator is a fresh rebuild from a reputable shop that has done several before, and I've always been satisfied with their work.

The only thing I haven't tried is to install another cut-out that I have on another "A" that I know is fine.

Any other ideas before I pull the generator and have the rebuilder check it out? Thanks

[Stinch]

I could be wrong, but I thought it wasn't a good idea to do the polarizing procedure with electronic cutouts installed.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Stinch

I could be wrong, but I thought it wasn't a good idea to do the polarizing procedure with electronic cutouts installed.

It's best to ask the maker of the voltage regulator.

I always recommend polarizing after installing the regulator I make. I even ran the generator like a motor for a full minute with the EVR installed to make sure no damage would occur, but it only takes a fraction of a second to polarize. In the instructions with the EVR I say to jump the two cutout terminals for 1 second.

If you are asking about the DIODE cutout, then you DO still polarize. IF you are asking about the cutout regulator made by John Regan, it's best to ask John how to do it.

[Bruce_MO]

But any ideas what my problem is??? The fact that the generator was HOT is worrysome. Any help or suggestions would appreciated. Thanks

[Tom Wesenberg]

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It almost sounds like the field and output wires might be mixed up, just like I posted about a few days ago on a generator worked on by a generator shop. I would remove the band and cutout, slip a piece of paper under the output brush, then check with an ohm meter or continuity tester from the output stud on the case to the output brush. You should show good continuity and NO connection to ground. If this checks out, then slip a piece of paper under the adjustable brush and connect a 6 volt battery charger + lead to the case and NEGATIVE lead to the adjustable brush. You should show about 4 amps current running through the field windings.

Let us know what you find after doing these checks.

Remember, moving the adjustable brush clockwise is moving it closer to the ground brush and lowering the generator output.