Block welding advice?

[Fourdy]

When was the last time you tore a flatty apart that had every valve stuck in the guide, every guide stuck in the block and every piston stuck. Eventually had to torch the valve stems and springs so I would have room to drive the guides and keepers down. Of course the was after I torched (melted) every head off the valves so I could drive everything out the bottom. Then the pistons had to be pounded out. FUN

One valve seat had come out and worked over the valve seat landing a bit. (pics) I understand that the final repair will be up to the machinist but have any of you had any success fill/weld this type of damage then machined it back to shape?

Standard bore block with good 20 main and 10 rod 3 3/4 crank.

Thanks, Fourdy

[JSeery]

That engine has had a tough life!

[Hal Beatty]

OUCH! I never had one that came apart that hard...

[cas3]

i have not had one that tuff either! i'm sure the spray weld process used my current "cracked block fixed" thread would work here too. crow cast welding does get work from all over the country,but i see you are a long ways away, and it would not be cost worthy. must be some place near you that does the same process. since you have pictures, you could email them to buck at crow cast to get his opinion just for fun.

[Mart]

I'd put a new, oversized insert in it and cross my fingers. I have just come in from the pub, though, so my response may be a little less cautious than normal.

I had one similar, but not quite as bad a few years ago and a new oversized insert did sort that one out.

Mart.

[BillM]

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If you decide on welding there is Cast Iron Repair Specialists in Marysville; 16129 Smokey Point Blvd, Ste A, 98271; 360-657-7660.

[Fourdy]

Mart,
By oversized are you thinking thicker (machine block for larger size) but id would be for stock 1.5 valve? That sounds interesting. I'll check with my machinist and also see if Tucker might have something like that. Could I be that lucky? lol

Fourdy

[cmbrucew]

Make one from stellite any size you need.
Bruce

[Fordestes]

There is such a thing as having valve seat inserts made to suit a specific size as needed, ask your Machinist. I have used oversize valve seats for a sbc with good success. check with a person who specializes in cylinder head work specifically, check with costa mesa R&D.

[flatheadmurre]

Choosing a seat big enough to cover the damaged area will make it go way into the other valveseat from what i can see.
Valve seats can be ordered with 2 std sizes larger outer diameter keeping the inner dimeter original...i think that damage is to large to put an oversize seat into.

[Russ/40]

I dont think any welding is necessary. You could braze the area to fill it, then cut the area for an oversize OD seat. Combustion chamber temps wont faze the brazed repair. The amount of braze remaining would be minimal.

[flatrod]

I think a over size seat will fix this. You can get .010 or .020 oversize or even go to a bigger size. I have put in as big as 1 11/16 od seats and still kept the stock size valve. There could be some mark left, but I think there would be plenty to hold a seat. If the machinist is using fixed cutters, you are stuck with what's built in for press, but adjustable cutter you can set it for a little more press

[JWL]

When I repair one like this I cut the counterbore oversize for a thicker wall seat ring and add a Dutchman screw (or 2) to prevent any chance of the seat ring dislodging in the future.

[Dave Castle]

All great ideas, but I think I would start with another block.

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by Fourdy

When was the last time you tore a flatty apart that had every valve stuck in the guide, every guide stuck in the block and every piston stuck. Eventually had to torch the valve stems and springs so I would have room to drive the guides and keepers down. Of course the was after I torched (melted) every head off the valves so I could drive everything out the bottom. Then the pistons had to be pounded out. FUN



Standard bore block with good 20 main and 10 rod 3 3/4 crank.

Thanks, Fourdy

I had one like that, I even had to cut a couple rods to get the crank out. And a couple others nearly as bad. Every one was too cracked to fix too.
I figured out since then that a tie rod pickle fork will pry the valve up far enough to get a guide driver down past it and then I don't have to torch in a greasy lifter valley. Big bolt cutter works too except for the end valves.

I can't help with the seat, but good luck, that block is worth saving.

[Karl Wolf]

Originally Posted by flatrod

I think a over size seat will fix this. You can get .010 or .020 oversize or even go to a bigger size. I have put in as big as 1 11/16 od seats and still kept the stock size valve. There could be some mark left, but I think there would be plenty to hold a seat. If the machinist is using fixed cutters, you are stuck with what's built in for press, but adjustable cutter you can set it for a little more press

As an addendum, you can cut the block to size, Then cut the outside of an oversize seat to suit. Hardened seats can be cut very nicely.

This works well if your seat cutters are adjustable.

Karl