Scat model B rear oil seal

[29racer]

Hi there. I am having trouble sourcing info regarding the rear oil seal fitting on the Scat model B crankshaft. Apparently it is machined to use a small block Chevy seal but I cannot get any info from Scat. I know Bob Bouldin did a kit for the model A for this seal, but does anybody know if there is one available for the B?
I am in London England so I am somewhat at a disadvantage when trying to source parts and people with the necessary knowledge.
Any information would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Regards Simon

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by 29racer

Hi there. I am having trouble sourcing info regarding the rear oil seal fitting on the Scat model B crankshaft. Apparently it is machined to use a small block Chevy seal but I cannot get any info from Scat. I know Bob Bouldin did a kit for the model A for this seal, but does anybody know if there is one available for the B?
I am in London England so I am somewhat at a disadvantage when trying to source parts and people with the necessary knowledge.
Any information would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Regards Simon

Terry Burtz sells the seal thru suppliers, i.e.-- Snyders, Berts, etc.
Contact Dan4Banger in Ohio ,as he is the maker/supplier (to outlets)of the special machined aluminum 'seal' that goes with the one piece real chev type seal.

[29racer]

Thanks for that info but it isn't the Chevy two piece seal they do the parts for. They do a one piece rubber seal and a two piece cork/ neoprene seal.
The Chevy two piece is a much larger diameter and a better seal for pressure systems. The Bouldin model A kit entailed adding metal to the rear of the crank and two aluminium carriers to take the two piece seal. I have only seen it mentioned once and that was in "secrets" magazine from the secrets of speed society. I used the rubber seal on a B crank and it lasted about 50 miles before it fell apart. I don't want to machine the crank down and be stuck with replacing the seal every few weeks!!
I can post pictures of the "A" conversion if you are interested.
Regards Simon

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by 29racer

Thanks for that info but it isn't the Chevy two piece seal they do the parts for. They do a one piece rubber seal and a two piece cork/ neoprene seal.
The Chevy two piece is a much larger diameter and a better seal for pressure systems. The Bouldin model A kit entailed adding metal to the rear of the crank and two aluminium carriers to take the two piece seal. I have only seen it mentioned once and that was in "secrets" magazine from the secrets of speed society. I used the rubber seal on a B crank and it lasted about 50 miles before it fell apart. I don't want to machine the crank down and be stuck with replacing the seal every few weeks!!
I can post pictures of the "A" conversion if you are interested.
Regards Simon

Ok, I guess I'm a little confused. You didn't specify that you were/are using an A block with a B crank..or is that NOT what you are using
I've used two B blocks now with two B cranks and with Burtz rubber one piece rear seal and Dan Price custom alum 'seal' to match with that Burtz one piece seal. I have had perfectly good oil sealing this way. THE BIG deal with making this work,in my understanding and experience, is to make sure the machinist makes the crank seal area mirror smooth and CONCENTRIC with the seal. I have spoken with respected B Ville engine record holders/engine builders, and found that they used the same one piece rear seal setup to successfully control high pressure oiling !
To be clear, I chose not to use the TWO piece chev rear seal, as I heard of problems that you also speak of. Extensive written instructions came with the one piece seal/Price seal, to be followed by installer/machinist, for successful installation.

Yeah, pictures always help. And, some of more experience here maybe can look/see what ,if anything, if wrong with what is being done ?

[just plain bill]

This is for 2 piece SBC seal for the A block, B is similar. These were supplied by the old Taylor engines when Jay was still there. I found the "high performance" seal was/is narrower and worked better in the A block. Standard seal worked in the B block.

[johnneilson]

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I have been using the Chev 2pc seals now pretty consistently.
The only issue I ever had was a customer who assembled it in correctly. It leaked pretty good.

As for sealing, I had the oil pump off the motor and cleaned up the scavenge ports along with replacing the seal in the pressure adjuster last year. As normal, I didn't measure the setting and did the eyeball to start the motor and then adjust. Took out the plugs, cranked it and primed up just fine. Put the plugs in and hit the starter. This one idles about 1800 revs and the pressure went over 90 psi. Since it wasn't leaking, I let it warm up and made adjustments back down to about 50. It still doesn't leak and we are heading to ElMers in a month or so.

I have seen the Burtz one pc seal used in "B" motors before. Besides the concentricity, you have to make sure to not put too much silicone around the outer dia. Just enough to seal and keep it from spinning. I just don't like stretching it over the flange.

They all work, John

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by 29racer

Hi there. I am having trouble sourcing info regarding the rear oil seal fitting on the Scat model B crankshaft. Apparently it is machined to use a small block Chevy seal but I cannot get any info from Scat. I know Bob Bouldin did a kit for the model A for this seal, but does anybody know if there is one available for the B?
I am in London England so I am somewhat at a disadvantage when trying to source parts and people with the necessary knowledge.
Any information would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Regards Simon

Dan McEachern makes a Chevy Small Block seal adapter for the "B" engine. I have attached an ad from him...
His contact info should be on the pasted ad.
I have used the seal you are describing several times.
The seal adapters you need are shown at the bottom of the picture...the picture quality is not very good...they are very faint.
Good Day.

[Dodge]

Email would be the best way for you to contact him. He's not always at the shop number.
Great guy to deal with.

[29racer]

Wow, thank you for all your replies and input. I have spent untold hours trawling the web without success and you sort it in a matter of moments!! The Dan McEachern adapters are exactly what I am looking for!! I shall mail him and hopefully get this beast back on the road shortly!!! I shall post pictures of the build.
Thanks again for your help. Any m,ore tips would be appreciated.
Simon

[colin1928]

Yes you will need to use the chev seal
the Burtz seal is a different size and will not work on the scat crank
I have fitted them to scat and machined B cranks never had a problem except for when I tried the blue hi-performance seals used the beige or gray since

[29racer]

Hi Colin. Yes I have read quite a few comments regarding the hi-performance seal being inferior, quite strange don't you think? I don't understand how Scat don't give any clue about seal fitting or make a kit themselves! I assumed that the rear of the crank would be standard and it would be up to me to machine it. At least I have you guys out there who are good enough to share info, that is much appreciated.
Regards Simon

[colin1928]

Yea after I had a problem with the blue silicon seal the chev engine builders told me to stay away from them it was fine for maybe 500 miles
Since then I have fitted Victor Reinz JV 1627 no problems

[29racer]

Hi Colin, just a quick follow up. I ordered a seal on Ebay, a grey one, and guess what, it turned up blue! Had a word with a few dealers an apparently blue is all that is available over here. Started work and it split as I was cleaning it prior to fitting it! Seems to be made from a material similar to to cottage cheese rather than silicone. Thank god it split rather than fail in situ. Have now ordered some Reinz ones from the USA so won't be on the road yet but hopefully will be leak free soon.
Regards Simon

[steve hackel]

Hello; for all the answers to the rear crank seals & all the variations available to us, does anyone have the instructions for the "Burtz" seal, the instructions for the "Dan Price" seal adapters & the "Dan McEachern" seal conversions.

This would allow a little bit of comparison shopping & also get some of us up to speed regarding this technical issue. I am now at destinies door step and will be needing this information myself very soon. Thanks

[Terry Burtz, Calif]

Steve Hackel,
Please check your PM (Private Message)
Terry Burtz

[tbirdtbird]

why PM this important info?
Why not put it in the open forum for all?

[29racer]

The Dan McEachern kit requires some machining of the rear main cap and line boring to finish. Pinning the main cap is also advised to locate. This is for use with the Scat crank, to use a standard crank the rear of the crank will need building up using a seal ring from Dan also (requires welding and machining). I believe others do similar kits or will do the work for you but I have only dealt with Dan and have just had the machine work done for my Scat crank. The parts from Dan are excellent as is his communication and shipping times.