Exhaust and Exhaust Manifold

[30ccpickup]

The nuts and lock washers are removed, but the exhaust flange will not separate from the manifold. I am open for suggestions on how to break apart. Both sides are froze and it is a V8 60.

[kurt v]

I would drive a putty knife into the gasket all around the flange

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 30ccpickup

The nuts and lock washers are removed, but the exhaust flange will not separate from the manifold. I am open for suggestions on how to break apart. Both sides are froze and it is a V8 60.

[cjshaker]

I would start by spraying the studs several times with Kroil, for a day or 2, allowing time to penetrate. Then I would also use a little heat on the pipe flange (not the manifold) to create an expansion difference that will help them to separate. I wouldn't use the heat on the manifold side because you might take a chance on it cracking. Using it on the flange side will minimize the heat transfer into the manifold and shouldn't be a problem. It might take several tries. Firm whacks with a deadblow will also greatly help, again, strictly on the flange side, and not so hard as to dent the pipe.

[30ccpickup]

Thanks Pete!

CJ, also thanks. You have describe exactly what I have been doing, along with what Kurt is suggesting, but instead with Razor blades. There is little room to strike with a hammer.

Is there any risk of cracking with heating and quenching.

[rockfla]

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ANY headway of gaining access to the face of that flange I would pour kroil OR penetrate de jour in those cracks/crevasses as well.

[cjshaker]

Originally Posted by 30ccpickup

Thanks Pete!

CJ, also thanks. You have describe exactly what I have been doing, along with what Kurt is suggesting, but instead with Razor blades. There is little room to strike with a hammer.

Is there any risk of cracking with heating and quenching.

I would not quench after heating. Those manifolds are pretty delicate after decades of heat cycles. I can see now where you've been heating it, and that looks good. The studs are likely the cause of your grief.



There is an old trick to removing broken exhaust studs/bolts that you can try. It involves heating the stud and offending area, then applying wax to the joining area, like regular candle wax. It will get drawn into the offending area and releases the tension. I know it sounds a bit crazy, but I have seen it work on more than one occasion where nothing else did. Something I learned from some older fellas with lots of experience from 'back in the day'. Try it, you may be surprised.



The only other advice I can give is patience, and sometimes lots of it. If you can get something started between them (putty knife, razor blade etc), even if just a little, keep it there as you spray/heat/repeat. The tension it creates between the two will help, but it may still take time. 40+ years of being a mechanic here, so I've dealt with this issue more times than I care to remember, on just about every piece of equipment you can imagine.

[30ccpickup]

Thanks gentlemen. I have one side off. The drivers side will be more of a challenge with the steering in the way. Only 24 hours later.

[30ccpickup]

Both sides are off. Thanks again!

[Lawson Cox]

Whoopee.