1929 coupe subrail salvage...

[Martinbuilt]

Hi.
I'm new to this forum, and just starting on a '29 business/sport coupe.
The rear half of the body is pretty solid, the ugliest part is behind the cross-member.
The subrails need a bunch of work, but i think i could save them with a couple good photos. I'd also be interested to know if they are dead flat, or have any contour.
Meaning, a new set would or would not lay flat on the ground.
As you can see in this photo, mine are happy to lay flat on the ground...

[Chuck Dempsey]

I can't help any, but welcome to the 'Barn.....

[Martinbuilt]

Thanks.

[ModelA29]

Google is your friend - https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...photos.298248/


Mike's too - https://www.mikes-afordable.com/blog/?p=226

[rotorwrench]

They're basically flat on top. The wood blocks fit in the channels to seat on the frame. Half sections are available. The rear subframe crossmembers are also available but expensive. Holes have to be drilled since they don't drill them.

[Martinbuilt]

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My frame is good, i just dont know what the body subrails do, once they get beyond the rear crossmember.
Mine curve down a little, which might be wrong.

[ModelA29]

Here is an article on assembling a 30 Coupe body from a pile of tin. https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/bodyassembly.htm
I don't know why I got frame rails existing behind the rear spring in my mind - Henry would never have wasted that steel when thin sheet metal would work for body support and be easily adapted to different styles.

[Martinbuilt]

Thanks, that's very useful.

[rotorwrench]

Brookville sells a complete floor and if some model A parts source has photos of it for the 28/29 roadster then a person can see how it's put together. The coupe models are a little different but many of the subframe parts are interchangeable. The side sill rails and seat structures are different but not by much. All the 28/29 coupe subframes are basically the same. Most of it is riveted with the 3/16" rivets.

This link is to a Business Coupe on B. Terry's site. The only major difference is in the way the top is done when compared to a Sport Coupe.
https://www.model-a-ford.com/proj_3.shtml

[Conaway2]

The subrails on the body of my ‘29 Sport Coupe were pretty badly rusted, but still attached. I was able to strengthen them by welding/bolting in U-shaped patches I made from 16-gauge sheet metal (from Speedy Metals) that I bent with a sheet metal break tool from Harbor Freight. Those patches, along with strategically-placed pieces of 1” angle iron bolted in restored the strength to the subrails.

You might be able to do something similar to my solution.

Good luck - Jim

[rotorwrench]

I just purchased the rear sections and strategically fit them and butt welded with an O/A torch with appropriate tip for thin metals. My fronts were still good. The rear sections around the rear frame cross member area and rumble platform were cracked and corroded. The whole body can be disassembled, repaired for corroded areas, and reassembled by fitting everything to a straight frame and new body blocks. It's a lot of work but it is the only way to get it all right and everything fitting before final riveting. A person needs the body wood and top wood as well on a Sport Coupe since that is also part of the central structure.