How to Distinguish Repro from Original Instrument Panels?

[ericr]

-without installing the ammeter, speedometer etc. to find out the screw holes are located incorrectly?

[Bob C]

I've seen some for round speedometers that had a square notch for the
dash light or none at all.

[Bob-A]

I've got an NORS one that has a "Made in W. Germany" stamped on the back. I would think it is made correctly.


Bob-A

[chrs1961815]

Originals were made in Germany from what I understand.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by ericr

-without installing the ammeter, speedometer etc. to find out the screw holes are located incorrectly?

My answer is not going to be much help for most of folks. Other than the M30-e31 Brass Instrument Panel that (-was designated for the 35B, 40B, and 180A bodystyles) you can see the brass, -or for the early 1928 that has the non-countersunk (flat) holes at the bottom and is clipped differently at the top, the quickest way for me to distinguish original from repro is by the weight.

To my knowledge, the A-11805-E style panel that was manufactured in Germany was actually a reproduction and not really a NORS. Didn't it start surfacing in the mid-1970s??

I was also thinking that all M30- EoP vehicles did have an A-13705 or -706 Instrument lamp, so shouldn't they all have a notch for the 13726 armored wire to pass thru?

[Jeff/Illinois]

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The oval speedometer dash panel on our '30 Roadster has 'Made in Germany' stamped on the back side. That car was restored in '72. It seems to fit fine.

I'd think that it would have said 'Gemacht in Deutschland' or something along that line, in German, instead of English. Perhaps it was in English because it was being sent to the USA.

Werner help me out here!

[Keith True]

I never knew the brass panels were actually original.I bought one at a swap meet around 1982,the seller said he thought it was a German reproduction.I never had any reason to confirm it.I just liked it because it was different.It fits perfectly.The chrome was strangely bubbled and peeling when I got it.My idea has always been to strip it,polish it,and use it.I have also thought about having it plated in nickel,I like the subdued look of it.If I do that though I might as well do it with any old panel.A panels have always looked too glarey to me,but polished brass would do the same thing I guess.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

My answer is not going to be much help for most of folks. Other than the M30-e31 Brass Instrument Panel that (-was designated for the 35B, 40B, and 180A bodystyles) you can see the brass, -or for the early 1928 that has the non-countersunk (flat) holes at the bottom and is clipped differently at the top, the quickest way for me to distinguish original from repro is by the weight.

To my knowledge, the A-11805-E style panel that was manufactured in Germany was actually a reproduction and not really a NORS. Didn't it start surfacing in the mid-1970s??

I was also thinking that all M30- EoP vehicles did have an A-13705 or -706 Instrument lamp, so shouldn't they all have a notch for the 13726 armored wire to pass thru?

My late '30 pickup has a really nice chrome panel in it that I always presumed was a repro (the rest of the car has a lot of repro parts, and the guy who owned the car before me was pretty obviously into replacing parts rather than restoring them). It was missing the notch, I had to file one in myself.

My E30 town sedan has what appears to be an original nickle panel, but along the way it was drilled out for a replacement ignition switch and the can on the back that holds the popout is hanging on by a bare thread. I'll likely braze it on more securely before I send for replating.

JayJay

[tmiller6]

A history reminder. West Germany came into existence in 1945. Prior to that, parts would have been marked as being made in Germany.

[john charlton]

If all 4 screws fit it is most likely original .

John in sunny/showers Suffolk County England .

[Bob-A]

To my knowledge, the A-11805-E style panel that was manufactured in Germany was actually a reproduction and not really a NORS. Didn't it start surfacing in the mid-1970s??

Hey, the mid 70's was almost 50 years ago, so to me it is NORS (New Old Reproduction Stock)....


Bob-A

[springerpete]

Originals were nickel plated, repros are chrome. Put them side by side and the chrome is brighter, nickel has a softer tint, a bit yellow.

[CarlG]

Buy one from Don Turley and it will be a restored ORIGINAL

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Buy one from Don Turley and it will be a restored ORIGINAL

Yep, stay original as that's the only way to get one that fits and looks right.

[Werner]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

Werner help me out here!

The countries of origin designations were introduced about 200 years ago by the English government. In the language English for the embossing of the products.


"Made in Germany" ("Hergestellt in Deutschland") existed until after World War II. until 1949.


Due to the Russian blockade of the reunification, this had to be changed in the late 60th step by step to "Made in Western Germany" and "Made in GDR" ("German Democratic Republic").


Since 1990 the designation "Made in Germany" is valid again.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Werner thanks I knew you would have the answer

That explains it.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Buy one from Don Turley and it will be a restored ORIGINAL

I contacted Don some time back he is out of them.

Maybe later he'll have more. He gave me the name of someone else to call that might have a lead on them.

My idea was to get a good restored original so I'm not bending the little tabs on my original ammeter switching it back and forth.

[MickeyT]

That's easy. One is old, rusty and dented. The other is shiny chrome and just arrived from Snyder's.

[figment]

Which dash panel go you need ? Oval Speedo or round ? If oval , with a notch for the trip odometer or no notch ?