The Ford Barn

jiffy · 02-19-2014, 04:02 PM

I was on a tour and at the first stop it was running fine. When I started up it ran about a half block and just shout down like I turned the key off. I retarded the spark and it started right up. Did thr same thing 2 more times at other stops. Each time I retarded the spark to start and then moved it halk way down and it ran fine. I have read posts about a wire in the dist. shorting out. I have modern points in it. What wire is causing the problem? Thanks, John

Joe K · 02-19-2014, 05:09 PM

The fact that changing the spark advance bringing on the problem indicates that the issue IS in the distributor. More than likely the wire connecting the condenser to the points - which just happens to be the only wire below the upper plate (and above the lower plate.)

The issue should be easy to correct. You just need to remove the top of the distributer, remove your cam (this may not be necessary) and with the link disconnected, turn the upper plate until the ears match up with the slots in the distributor body. Up will come the upper plate propelled by a spring. Check out the wire which if original or even recent manufacture, may be cloth covered.

You may have worn a hole in the insulation or other flaw creating a short.

Some more modern plate kits include a spring connecting the two plates which makes the same connection - that is until corrosion causes the same problem - with less repeatable results/diagnosis.

You can use a voltmeter with a continuity aspect (either resistance measurement or a contact light) to make a more definitive diagnosis/proof of cure. But it may not be necessary.

Joe K

H. L. Chauvin · 02-19-2014, 06:23 PM

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Hi John,

Mr. Joe k has good advice above.

Also, with intermittent electrical problems of all sorts, (like start & unintentional no-start), they can become very difficult to diagnose; however, linear positive (+) & negative (-) testing of electrical problems from the battery to the spark plugs on the "no-start" cycle, "without" moving the spark lever, can sometimes be beneficial in helping to locate exactly "where" this seemingly unique electrical continuity problem is occurring.

02-19-2014, 04:02 PM	#1
jiffy Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 34	Engine shut down. I was on a tour and at the first stop it was running fine. When I started up it ran about a half block and just shout down like I turned the key off. I retarded the spark and it started right up. Did thr same thing 2 more times at other stops. Each time I retarded the spark to start and then moved it halk way down and it ran fine. I have read posts about a wire in the dist. shorting out. I have modern points in it. What wire is causing the problem? Thanks, John

02-19-2014, 05:09 PM	#2
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: Engine shut down. The fact that changing the spark advance bringing on the problem indicates that the issue IS in the distributor. More than likely the wire connecting the condenser to the points - which just happens to be the only wire below the upper plate (and above the lower plate.) The issue should be easy to correct. You just need to remove the top of the distributer, remove your cam (this may not be necessary) and with the link disconnected, turn the upper plate until the ears match up with the slots in the distributor body. Up will come the upper plate propelled by a spring. Check out the wire which if original or even recent manufacture, may be cloth covered. You may have worn a hole in the insulation or other flaw creating a short. Some more modern plate kits include a spring connecting the two plates which makes the same connection - that is until corrosion causes the same problem - with less repeatable results/diagnosis. You can use a voltmeter with a continuity aspect (either resistance measurement or a contact light) to make a more definitive diagnosis/proof of cure. But it may not be necessary. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.

02-19-2014, 06:23 PM	#3
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: Engine shut down. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Hi John, Mr. Joe k has good advice above. Also, with intermittent electrical problems of all sorts, (like start & unintentional no-start), they can become very difficult to diagnose; however, linear positive (+) & negative (-) testing of electrical problems from the battery to the spark plugs on the "no-start" cycle, "without" moving the spark lever, can sometimes be beneficial in helping to locate exactly "where" this seemingly unique electrical continuity problem is occurring.