Back from a tour, the Victoria was mis-behaving.

[Ed in Maine]

We just got back from a three day tour (eleven cars) and for the most part my car ran just OK. It was over 90F here in Florida. We had the tour too late in the season! Anyway, I checked my car over carefully. It was fully lubricated, points gapped, carburetor was disassembled, cleaned and flow checked. Starting out the car was running perfectly (first 100 miles). We stopped to top off the gas. After filling the car, it would not start. Not even a pop! It turned over just fine but would not fire. I expected the car to start in a half a turn just like it always does. A couple of club members helped me push the car away from the pump. The group wasn't ready to move on yet so the car sat for about 10 minutes. Just as we are ready to go, I tried starting the car again and it fired off with several turns. Great, no harm done. We sat at the gas station another few minutes till everyone was ready to go at an idle. But what is the problem? As I said earlier, it was hot outside. Then we left the gas station, and my car started to back fire repeatedly. How embarrassing! I eased up on the accelerator and it stopped back firing but I am only moving along about 10 mph. I gradually increased speed with more back firing. I nursed it along and eventually got up to 35 mph when everything settled down and the car performed perfectly another 50 miles to the hotel.

While I did not delay anyone or have to adjust or fix anything, I lost confidence in the car. I was always nervous that the car would not start when I needed it. Can anyone comment on what is happening during these hot operating conditions? What can be done to minimize the problem? This has never happened before. Thanks for your help. Ed

[katy]

Sounds like a condensor problem.

[Gary WA]

Agree condenser or coil!

[Big hammer]

Vapor lock, when the weather is hot and my a is hot and I’am hot, if she doesn’t fire right up I pull the choke and after a couple of crankshaft turns she fire up!

I know naysayers don’t believe me but my zero turn lawnmower is the same way, shut it off for a few minutes and if I don’t choke it it will just crank and no start.

MMO in the gas 4oz per 10 gallons helps !

[imacrazy]

Sounds like the points were to close!!

Bill

[imacrazy]

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Also could be the wire from switch to the distributor shorting out.

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

Vapor lock, when the weather is hot and my a is hot and I’am hot, if she doesn’t fire right up I pull the choke and after a couple of crankshaft turns she fire up!

I know naysayers don’t believe me but my zero turn lawnmower is the same way, shut it off for a few minutes and if I don’t choke it it will just crank and no start.

MMO in the gas 4oz per 10 gallons helps !

I agree, especially if there is ethanol in the fuel.

WE have that same problem here in Southern California on a hot day.

Chris W.

[mass A man]

Last Wednesday I had a similar thing happen, my engine died on the way to a show.
I DO have a 30 Amp spade fuse at my kill switch and it blew. I checked the wiring here & there, finally found the REPRO '31 instrument lamp shorted. Put my spare fuse in and made it to the show.
It seems the internal sliding socket/switch is a bit thinner metal and will bend and short out. If you don't have a fuse and you have a short like this type, could this cause a similar problem like yours?

[Bob Johnson]

I had a similar problem with my car. It was not traditional vapor lock. It was a very hot carburetor. I found that if I could get it running I could get up to speed if I opened up the GAV several turns. Once the carburetor cooled down I could close the GAV to it's normal position. If it happens again try opening up the GAV. But it could be the condenser.


Bob

[Y-Blockhead]

I agree with the vapor lock/hot carb. I found if I run the carb dry when parking I don't have this problem.

I now have a phenolic spacer installed that cured the problem.

[Robert/Texas]

I have two each, T’s, A’s and early V8’s. The closest place to me to get gas is an icehouse about three miles away. I had been buying gas there for many years. About six or eight years ago all the cars started acting up much as described here. I found that tiny bits of rubber were getting in various parts of the fuel systems. I asked the owner when he last replaced the gas pump hoses and he said never. I spent many hours dealing with the problem and never bought gas there again. Now I get e-free gas from a station 50 miles from here.

[eagle]

As stated above, it sounds to me like point gap closed up. Check that first. Also, if it happens again lift a plug strap a 1/4 inch and crank. See if you have a nice hot blue spark. That will help troubleshoot. Sometimes it is not so easy to differentiate between electrical or fuel issues.

[nkaminar]

Vapor lock is one possible problem. Another is the fuel boiling in the carburetor and in effect flooding the engine. Another possible problem is a leaky float valve. To test the vapor lock problem, put ice on the fuel line and carburetor. To test the flooding possibility, open the throttle full and then try and start the engine.

It is also possible that you have ignition problems as others have pointed out. But it sounds to me like a fuel problem.

[Dave in MN]

Classic symptoms of vapor lock. If the fuel had ethanol in it, I'd bet a tank of non-ethanol 91 octane it was the problem.
Good Day!