What 12 volt battery and where ?

[McMimmcs]

Need battery for Model A converted to 12 volt. Do Walmart have them and what is their part number, if known. Only other place in town is TSC. PLEASE ADVISE.
Thanks, Wayne

[Kurt in NJ]

look at the top of the battery for the group number, measurements with ruler
it’s easy to figure things for stock cars, modifications are whatever was done,

[Y-Blockhead]

I use a Group 25, similar size to Group 1 6v.

[rotorwrench]

A group 25 12V is close to a group 1 6V in size but the terminals on a 12V have a straight line terminal post layout where most 6V batteries have a diagonal layout. I use a group 25 on my old Ford tractor that was converted and it fits where a group 2 6V battery would fit but is smaller.

It might be a stretch for the positive battery cable but I don't know for certain. The post sizes are likely going to be different too.

[ModelA29]

Since all batteries now seem to cost $200+ spend the extra $60-70 and get an Optima battery. It will outlast most bargain lead acid batteries 3-1.

[Tom Endy]

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When I bought a 12-volt battery for my grandsons 1930 Tudor I went on line and looked up a local auto parts store. Here in Calif it was O'Rileys and clicked on battery's. I believe the group 25 was the one I bought. You need to be sure of the dimensions to fit the battery cage. I printed out the information page that had the price on it and took it to an O'Riley store and asked the clerk if they had it in stock and was that the price. It was just over $100. They had in stock, but the price was higher, but they would sell it to me for the price on the print out.

Tom Endy

[johndduvall]

Just installed a group 26 battery from NAPA. It's a lead-acid with 2 year free replacement warranty. It also has a removable plastic top that you can snap onto the bottom of the battery so it fits perfectly. Cost was $98 plus tax. (got 10% vet discount) NAPA P/N 6526. They also make a 6526R which you DON'T want. It has the positive post on the right side.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I use a Group 25, similar size to Group 1 6v.

Same here

[Steves46]

The previous owner installed a Rural King and after 4 years still running strong.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

A group 25 12V is close to a group 1 6V in size but the terminals on a 12V have a straight line terminal post layout where most 6V batteries have a diagonal layout. I use a group 25 on my old Ford tractor that was converted and it fits where a group 2 6V battery would fit but is smaller.

It might be a stretch for the positive battery cable but I don't know for certain. The post sizes are likely going to be different too.

Good points but since the car has already been converted to 12v and he is looking for a replacement, I don't believe it will be an issue.

Originally Posted by ModelA29

Since all batteries now seem to cost $200+ spend the extra $60-70 and get an Optima battery. It will outlast most bargain lead acid batteries 3-1.

As for an Optima outlasting a lead/acid battery... maybe. I have over 8 years on my 12v lead/acid battery now. If well mantained, they will last. Thing is people don't and let the connections corrode and the charge to get low. Once the charge gets low, sulfation starts...

Also, as I have mentioned numerous times on this Forum, I use ThermOil in my batteries. https://www.thermoil.com

[katy]

Anyone here use one of the "battery analyzer" sold these days?
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KINGBOLEN-100...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[ronn]

if selling the car, 60. for a 1 yr value battery from walmart.


if keeping it, about 150. for a three yr. the good thing with walmart is no shipping involved, if you need to return it. cores in NJ now running 12. which is insane.
However, walmart will take any core, even a midget moped battery as an exchange on any size batt.

[Kurt in NJ]

cores just got sold at 20$ each here in NJ
all my modern cars i get my batteries off the junk pile, the chain store batteries usually look new and are bad, without a receipt no warranty honored —- except interstate, i have gotten several new batteries that way, I usually get 4-10 years out of a junk pile battery that charges up good

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

As for an Optima outlasting a lead/acid battery... maybe. I have over 8 years on my 12v lead/acid battery now. If well mantained, they will last. Thing is people don't and let the connections corrode and the charge to get low. Once the charge gets low, sulfation starts...

True - but in a vast majority of cars no one thinks about the battery until it's dead. Modern "maintenance free" batteries make matters worse. Model As are have their own problem since you can't just check the battery by popping the hood. I have Battery Tenders on all my cars that sit more than a month. The Optima IMHO is the best option for the install it and forget it crowd.

[katy]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

all my modern cars i get my batteries off the junk pile,

Just where is this junk pile?

[rotorwrench]

The batteries that end up in my junk pile are either open circuit, shorted internally, or sulfated solid in the plates. There would be no rejuvenation for them.

A high current discharge will sometimes knock the sulfation crystals off of the plates and get them going again but this has a detrimental affect on the cold cranking amps capability due to loss of plate area. You can't get all of the sulfation off but it will work for a while if it comes back by 75% or more. Eventually, all the sulfation crystals pile up in the bottom of the cell and short the plates when the pile gets big enough. Some folks rinse them out and refill with electrolyte and that might help get some sulfation out but it's hard to tell what it looks like in there. The old tar tops could be removed and the plate assembly replaced but that made too much sense for the modern era.

[McMimmcs]

Originally Posted by ronn

if selling the car, 60. for a 1 yr value battery from walmart.


if keeping it, about 150. for a three yr. the good thing with walmart is no shipping involved, if you need to return it. cores in NJ now running 12. which is insane.
However, walmart will take any core, even a midget moped battery as an exchange on any size batt.

Car being sold. Walmart here we come. Thanks Ronn. Wayne

[eagle]

Years ago I bought a junk box at an auction that had a few little bottles of I think it was called "Battery In a Bottle" or something like that. When a battery started to get weak I'd pull off a little water out of the cells then add the bottle. It would rejuvenate a battery and I'd get sometimes a couple more years out of them. I haven't seen it for years although you do see a possibly similar product for golf cart batteries. I know there was lots of snake oil for battery rejuvenation sold back in the day, but some worked.

[McMimmcs]

Thank you everyone for your advice. It is very much appreciated. Kind thoughts, Wayne

[Bob Bidonde]

I buy my batteries for the Model A's from Walmart.

[David in San Antonio]

@Eagle - There is a de-sulfater to pep up lead-acid batteries:
https://www.thermoil.com/
The company also has an oil which is meant to trap the hydrogen as it is released thereby preventing it from escaping and causing corrosion etc.

By the way, “snake oil salesmen” had a bad reputation because their products were not actual snake oil, but cheap who-knows-what. Real snake oil was believed to have restorative powers.

[Parts4Sale]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

...I have mentioned numerous times on this Forum, I use ThermOil in my batteries.

https://www.thermoil.com

Originally Posted by David in San Antonio

@Eagle - There is a de-sulfater to pep up lead-acid batteries:
https://www.thermoil.com/

The company also has an oil which is meant to trap the hydrogen as it is released thereby preventing it from escaping and causing corrosion etc.

I would like to revive this post if possible. )

For those who have successfully used this Thermoil, how have you typically installed the Thermoil? Is the requirement plan to first find a battery that has a removable top? I recently went thru this on a battery that I needed to only add water however I was unsuccessful in finding a way to get the top off.

[David in San Antonio]

Maybe you can send a message to YBlockhead. He says he uses thermoil (see page 1 of this thread)

[nkaminar]

12 Volt lithium ion batteries for starting cars are starting to come on the market. They should last a lot longer and are maintenance free. They are expensive so only buy them if you intend to keep your car for a long while.

Here is just one I found with a Google search: https://www.lifepo4battery-factory.c...rting-battery/

[The Master Cylinder]

Good price on Batteries at Walmart. Oops, some one already said that.

[Y-Blockhead]

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Originally Posted by Parts4Sale

I would like to revive this post if possible. )

For those who have successfully used this Thermoil, how have you typically installed the Thermoil? Is the requirement plan to first find a battery that has a removable top? I recently went thru this on a battery that I needed to only add water however I was unsuccessful in finding a way to get the top off.

Yes, you will need a battery with removable caps. I add 2 oz. Battery oil per cell. My lead/acid battery is now well over 8 years old. No corossion on terminals or surrounding area. The oil floats on top of the electrolyte so the acid does not escape out the vents with the hydrogen bubbles when charging. Very rarely have to add any distilled water.

[oldbird55]

Add thermoil to your battery they last 10 -15 years. it was made for golf carts.

[wuga]

As a added word of caution, I installed a group 25 also. The top posts are on the transmission side with the + towards the front. I found the + cable clamp dangerously close to the hold down plate so I cut a piece of inner tube that went around the post and extended over the plate to prevent any possibility of shorting.. No problem with cable length.
Warren

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by wuga

As a added word of caution, I installed a group 25 also. The top posts are on the transmission side with the + towards the front. I found the + cable clamp dangerously close to the hold down plate so I cut a piece of inner tube that went around the post and extended over the plate to prevent any possibility of shorting.. No problem with cable length.
Warren

I made a battery hold down like depicted in post #20. Thanks for the design idea Bob.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by wuga

As a added word of caution, I installed a group 25 also. The top posts are on the transmission side with the + towards the front. I found the + cable clamp dangerously close to the hold down plate so I cut a piece of inner tube that went around the post and extended over the plate to prevent any possibility of shorting.. No problem with cable length.
Warren

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I made a battery hold down like depicted in post #20. Thanks for the design idea Bob.

So when you guys have converted to the Group 25, you have also converted the electrical system to Negative Ground, ...correct??

[Jim/GA]

When I look at the Group 25 battery in the photo in Post #20, I see the battery posts are both on the frame side of the battery box.

I think it is better to have the battery posts on the transmission side. That gives a straight shot for the starter cable to pass up to the post on the starter switch.

Have you looked at a Group 34R battery? It seems to be the same size. See photo.
10" long
6.88" wide
7.63" high

Then the posts are both on the transmission side. The positive post is toward the front. Getting a ground cable over to the ground post of the battery is easy, especially if you are going to add a ground disconnect switch.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

So when you guys have converted to the Group 25, you have also converted the electrical system to Negative Ground, ...correct??

Brent, yes. 12volt negative ground.