Update on head

[Bob A.]

Richard,
I think you're going to have to do it again. They sell an attachment that goes on your drill. This thing looks like a large thick washer with two studs coming off it that clamps to your drill. If you're handy you can make it up.
Then what I would do is use an EZ-Lok plug in it..
Just a suggestion
I'm sure Your going to get a few suggestions from the boy's

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Richard/Ca

I thought I was doing such a great job. Center punch the broken stud dead center drilled it out starting with a 1/4" drill and progress until I could see some threads.Ran a flat bottom tap down in thinking I was just chasing the thread. Everything look good until I ran a stud down the hole. the hole came out crooked and stud leans towards the outside of the block. NOW what can I do to fix it ?

Mickey Mouse method:
Clean the hole with acetone. Install the stud with green Loctite.
Let it sit overnight.
Next day bang the stud straight with a rubber hammer.

Best method:
Take it to a machine shop and have the hole repaired with a steel plug.

Next time:
Bring it to me to fix...It would only have cost you $10.

[Kevin - Illinois]

I tend to agree with you Paul. Richard is the stud tight in the hole? That would be my solution if it is but I'm dealing with an engine that will be rebuilt in a coupe years anyway.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Strip the block down to nothing, and take it to a machine shop and have them put in a thick walled insert. The crank has to be out so they can set it level on the mill, they they can drill it straight and square.

[Bob A.]

Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

Strip the block down to nothing, and take it to a machine shop and have them put in a thick walled insert. The crank has to be out so they can set it level on the mill, they they can drill it straight and square.

From the pictures Kevin posted,it looks like the engine is in the car.
Jim don't you think thats a little bit of work for one stud?
Maybe later on when he's going to do a major overhaul.

[Dave in MN]

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I have found the wax method to work quite well on stubborn head and manifold bolts.
The wax method I use:
Heat the stuck stud cherry red as close to the block surface as possible without doing damage to the block. Let the stud cool to the point that when a wax candle or canning wax block is held against the stud the wax flows down quickly to the block surface without producing smoke. If the stud is to hot, it will flow but much of it goes up in smoke. At this point I will strike the top of the stud a couple times with a hammer and then apply wax again. Let everything cool to room temp and then try to remove the stud. Most of the time it will back right out. If it is still stuck, repeat the process. I have only broken one stud since I was clued in to the "wax method" by a fellow Club member.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
www.durableperformance.net

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by Dave Mellor NJ

Most people don't have pete's equipment to remove a broken stud and it's hard to centerpunch the rough top of the broken-off stud(stud-stub?). If you put the head back with some other studs and reduce the size of the stud hole with a piece of 1/4"pipe or tubing cut even with the surface of the head.then you can drill in with a long 1/4" bit enough to get an easy-out in.The 1/4' bit will take out enough material you might not even need the easy-out.

Dave's method is my standard procedure for stud removal when the engine is in the car. I also use a head to center and align the drill for a Helicoil. The size of the drill used for a 7/16" helicoil is a good fit in a head and provides for precise location and alignment. Having the head in place also keeps the drill cuttings from finding their way into the cylinders. I do use a cracked original head for this purpose but you could use your good head. Make sure you place a stop or some tape on your drill bit when doing this to eliminate the possibility of drilling to deep. Measure a good clean stud hole with the head on and transfer the depth to your drill bit. Use the top of the head and the tape as your visual guides for depth.
Good Day!
Dave in MN