05-18-2010, 05:46 PM | #21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 158
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Re: Update on head
Richard,
I think you're going to have to do it again. They sell an attachment that goes on your drill. This thing looks like a large thick washer with two studs coming off it that clamps to your drill. If you're handy you can make it up. Then what I would do is use an EZ-Lok plug in it.. Just a suggestion I'm sure Your going to get a few suggestions from the boy's Last edited by Bob A.; 08-04-2010 at 09:30 AM. |
05-18-2010, 05:49 PM | #22 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wa.
Posts: 5,409
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Re: Screw up good this time.
Quote:
Clean the hole with acetone. Install the stud with green Loctite. Let it sit overnight. Next day bang the stud straight with a rubber hammer. Best method: Take it to a machine shop and have the hole repaired with a steel plug. Next time: Bring it to me to fix...It would only have cost you $10. |
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05-18-2010, 07:54 PM | #23 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
Posts: 401
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Re: Update on head
I tend to agree with you Paul. Richard is the stud tight in the hole? That would be my solution if it is but I'm dealing with an engine that will be rebuilt in a coupe years anyway.
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05-18-2010, 08:37 PM | #24 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,289
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Re: Update on head
Strip the block down to nothing, and take it to a machine shop and have them put in a thick walled insert. The crank has to be out so they can set it level on the mill, they they can drill it straight and square.
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05-19-2010, 09:43 AM | #25 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 158
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Re: Update on head
Quote:
Jim don't you think thats a little bit of work for one stud? Maybe later on when he's going to do a major overhaul. |
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05-19-2010, 10:36 AM | #26 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jordan, MN
Posts: 1,411
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Removing stuck head and manifold studs "wax method"
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The wax method I use: Heat the stuck stud cherry red as close to the block surface as possible without doing damage to the block. Let the stud cool to the point that when a wax candle or canning wax block is held against the stud the wax flows down quickly to the block surface without producing smoke. If the stud is to hot, it will flow but much of it goes up in smoke. At this point I will strike the top of the stud a couple times with a hammer and then apply wax again. Let everything cool to room temp and then try to remove the stud. Most of the time it will back right out. If it is still stuck, repeat the process. I have only broken one stud since I was clued in to the "wax method" by a fellow Club member. Good Day! Dave in MN www.durableperformance.net |
05-19-2010, 10:52 AM | #27 | |
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Location: Jordan, MN
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Re: Update on head
Quote:
Good Day! Dave in MN |
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