Brakes: 39-42 vs 46-48

[John R]

By design, the 46-48 brakes, with their fixed lower anchors and floating shoes, eliminate the need for periodic adjustment of the lower shoe anchors as in the 39-42 type. The no-adjustment feature appears to be an advantage - keeping the brake in proper adjustment for a longer period (?) or maybe just a convenience factor for lazy people like me. I would like to hear from Fordbarners that have used both types and hear their opinions as to what the tradeoffs are. Thanks.

[mrtexas]

46-48 are far better IMHO than 40/42s. Even better are the bendix backing plates sold by several vendors.

[Vic Piano]

I have a '39 CS and also a '47 Convertible, and I much prefer the later'42-'48 brakes as they are easier to set up and adjust.

[Bassman/NZ]

Agreed. I have 39s on the front and 47s on the rear. The 39s are a pain.

[Ken/Alabama]

The later is definatly quicker and easier but if the early ones are done correctly I think you can achieve better contact between the shoe and drum. Of coarse the real way to do it is to have the shoes arched or ground to fit the drum for optimum contact area but no one can do this anymore ,at least not around here.

[KiWinUS]

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Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

The later is definatly quicker and easier but if the early ones are done correctly I think you can achieve better contact between the shoe and drum. Of coarse the real way to do it is to have the shoes arched or ground to fit the drum for optimum contact area but no one can do this anymore ,at least not around here.

Absolutely correct Ken !!!!!
Cheers
Tony

[John R]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

..... Of coarse the real way to do it is to have the shoes arched or ground to fit the drum for optimum contact area but no one can do this anymore ,at least not around here.

Arcing the shoes is good for either type of anchor. But, like you say, its hard to find people or equipment to do this nowadays.

[jbc]

There a brake shop here in Ocala Fl that still match grinds the shoes to the drums, and the price is reasonable. If anyone is interested, I'll get there infomation.
John

[Adam/Mill Valley CA]

I've read of a method for arcing the shoes where you put a sheet of sandpaper between the new shoe and the drum, and arc it by moving the shoe back and forth by hand until the contact is completely even-haven't tried it myself, though

Adam

[Zeke...PA]

Using adhesive backed 2 3/4" sanding paper works great. I used on my A also. Zeke

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by John R

Arcing the shoes is good for either type of anchor. But, like you say, its hard to find people or equipment to do this nowadays.

You might try contacting the retailer that sold you the shoes and see if they can send them back to the company that relined the shoes to be arced. Of course you will need to supply the accurate drum diameter. Usually companies in the business have invested in the equipment so they can do it legally.

Charlie Stephens

[Ken/Alabama]

Originally Posted by Zeke...PA

Using adhesive backed 2 3/4" sanding paper works great. I used on my A also. Zeke

That's what I do also. Little time consuming but worth the effort.

[John R]

This thread got a little off-topic. Any more comments on 39-42 vs. 46-48 brakes? Thanks for your advice/comments!

[34flathead]

i replaced the rear '39-'42 to '46-'48, much happier, the front will be done soon,
and any big rig shop that rebuilds clutchs and brakes should be able to reline your shoes (they line the hole shoe) cut the drums and arc the shoes to each drum.
rich