The Ford Barn

Ross/Kzoo · 03-17-2013, 12:50 PM

I changed carbs and I loosened the fitting on the fuel sediment bulb ('29). When I tightened it back up it didn't seal. It seems that the ferrule is not the normal ferrule, is that right? If not, can it be sourced locally? Thanks.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 01:08 PM

Ross, if it's the ferrule that comes "attached" to the nut, maybe it wasn't tightened enough to pop loose from the nut & "squeeze" tightly on the line. Rub Vaseline on the ferrulle & nut & tighten VERY firmly. It has to squeeze on the line like a wedding ring on a fat man's finger. Bill W. ( You can buy ferrules at most any hardware store or auto parts)

Ross/Kzoo · 03-17-2013, 01:10 PM

Bill, that ferrule is no longer here on this earth. Any ideas where I could get one?

Joe K · 03-17-2013, 01:14 PM

Isn't this just a standard 3/16" ferrule? I think you can get the compression nut too at the parts drawers at the Orange place.

The parts houses have both the nut with the attached ferrule (it snaps off when you tighten) AND a "31 only" version which has the ferrule loose.

The snap off version seem to be a "one use only" sort of thing. You might try some permatex gookum pucky (technical term) on this as you tighten.

Joe K

Ross/Kzoo · 03-17-2013, 01:17 PM

I believe it's 1/4" OD tubing and 9/16" threaded male end.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 01:32 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe K

Isn't this just a standard 3/16" ferrule? I think you can get the compression nut too at the parts drawers at the Orange place.

The parts houses have both the nut with the attached ferrule (it snaps off when you tighten) AND a "31 only" version which has the ferrule loose.

The snap off version seem to be a "one use only" sort of thing. You might try some permatex gookum pucky (technical term) on this as you tighten.

Joe K

The snap off type is re-usable, Joe, if it's squeezed properly. It's just a different "take off" on the old system, so you don't lose the dang little ferrules+*@%^$^

Ross, be sure to buy 6 extra ferrules in case you lose one. They're 1/4" Bill W.

42merc · 03-17-2013, 01:37 PM

1/4" ferrules are available at the hardware store in the plumbing department, cheap.

Ross/Kzoo · 03-17-2013, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 42merc

1/4" ferrules are available at the hardware store in the plumbing department, cheap.

I agree but the fitting doesn't have the same taper where the ferrule seats in it and I couldn't find a fitting that would accept a normal tapered ferrule.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

I agree but the fitting doesn't have the same taper where the ferrule seats in it and I couldn't find a fitting that would accept a normal tapered ferrule.

Sounds like your fitting was some assinine design. Seems the hardware should have one that fits. It's surely a standard size/type of nut. Don't remember the specs on the nut offhand. Bill W. (Ross, clerk must be a rookie, need one that has real knowledge, it ain't rocket science, it's regular old standard fittings)

Ross/Kzoo · 03-17-2013, 02:12 PM

I'm thinking that the brass fitting that I have had the ferrule attached and I thought that it was jammed. I muscled that ferrule off and tried using a normal ferrule. I think I'll need to find a new brass fitting that uses 9/16" fitting for 1/4" OD tubing. Thanks for the info because I didn't know that there was a fitting with the ferrule attached.

Purdy Swoft · 03-17-2013, 03:03 PM

I've never had anything but problems with the fitting with the ferrule attached. When the fitting is tightened, the ferrule is suppose to attach itself to the fuel line tightly and remain in place. In other words, after the fitting is properly tightened, the ferrule should remain part of the fuel line and not slide off. If it will move after tightening, it will leak. Both ends of the fuel line use the same ferrule. Remove the fuel line and take it with you to the hardware or parts house so that they can see what you need. this will be your easiest bet. When you get the new ferrule, I would use a tubing cutter and cut a small piece of the fuel line off where the old ferrule fit, as it may be damaged. Be carefull when you install the new ferrule , it needs to be close to the end of the fuel line with a small amount of fuel line protruding past the ferrule or it can interere or cut off flow to the carb. Good luck, its a pain but not that difficult after you get the hang of it.

ken ct · 03-17-2013, 03:58 PM

The ferrels wont work,i believe you need a "FORD FITTING" 1/2x20 and have the proper taper to seal the ferrel. I never had any luck with the attached ferrel,would never break off. I have them if you need. PM me. ken ct.

Joe K · 03-17-2013, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

I'm thinking that the brass fitting that I have had the ferrule attached and I thought that it was jammed. I muscled that ferrule off and tried using a normal ferrule. I think I'll need to find a new brass fitting that uses 9/16" fitting for 1/4" OD tubing. Thanks for the info because I didn't know that there was a fitting with the ferrule attached.

I think you're headed in the right direction. Just be sure that the tubing once you've removed the ferrule, is ABSOLUTELY straight - or you can put the new ferrule on a straight portion. If the tube seems at all crimped or reduced in diameter from the removed ferrule, then pick somewhere else. Also heed Purdy's warning about how much you leave proud of the ferrule.

And yea, the thread for the ferrule is 1/2-20 but I don't think it's anything Ford special. And like you I didn't like the thought of the ferrule attached to the compression nut. Although mine seems to work - so far.

Or you can do the shadetree dodge and wrap the tube with string and use the compression nut to compress the string and make a seal.

But not recommended...

Joe K

jj1928 · 03-17-2013, 05:47 PM

they seem to come on the 1/2 inch fitting. if your are not showing it I have been able to get the two piece fitting by getting the 9/16 fitting (nut size)

ken ct · 03-17-2013, 06:00 PM

The fitting is special,thats why they call it a "FORD" nut it fits 1/4" od line and comes with a separate ferrel,i have them in stock if thats what you need. ken ct. The fitting is male threaded 1/2x20 to fit in a ford V8 carb,dont know if thats the size in a model"A" carb.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 06:04 PM

The nut does NOT have a pronounced taper to accept the ferrule. Just a smooth ridge to push against the ferrule, as the "sealing" is accomplished where the ferrule seats in the sediment bowl/carb. If you ever have a rough seat in the sediment bowl/carb, take a piece of old tubing with a ferrule attached, dab valve grinding on the ferrule, stick it in and turn it back & forth to smooth the seat, like: 1001 1002 1003 1004 1005 106----------You know what I mean!
Someone stated awhile back that on the attached type fitting, he stuck a 1/4" drill bit shank in the ferrule, snapped it off & installed it in the usual manner. Vaseline's good for more than one thing!! puttin' some on the ferrule helps it "squuuueze" to the tube easier. When you're first puttin' a new ferrule, tighten until it "feels" tight, then use a tubing wrench at 3:00 position, push down with straight arm, using body weight, and you'll feel it "give as the ferrule "squeezes" onto the tube, gotta' look like a wedding ring on a fat man's finger!
I type slooooow, I hope I don't have to ever type all this again. (just use search!) At least I've learned how to spell FERRULE correctly!
Some have resorted to soldering ferrules to the line. This is sometimes need on an original line that has a "lap" seam from original manufacturing methods, instead of a "butt" seam that was used later. Bill W.

Ross/Kzoo · 03-17-2013, 06:05 PM

I'm thinking that it would be part #13490 on pg 58 in Brattons catalog.

I think that you're right Bill, about one side not having the taper on that ferrule. I may try removing most of the taper on one side.

Jazzjr · 03-17-2013, 06:06 PM

Why don't you order a New Line part # A-9240-B fits 28-some 31's for $5.25 Probaly you old one is bent anyways. Here is a link to the Lines, ferrulels and or nuts
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/se...+line&x=95&y=5

Gas Line

Goes from sediment bulb on firewall down to the carb. This is a plated steel line with brass fittings, not for late 31's. U.S.A.

Gas Line Fitting

Brass gas line fittings like the originals. When you tighten it up, the ferrule will snap on the fitting. U.S.A. Part # A-9243 $ 1.35 each. I keep a couple of Spare Fittings

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jazzjr

Why don't you order a New Line part # A-9240-B fits 28-some 31's for $5.25 Probaly you old one is bent anyways. Here is a link to the Lines, ferrulels and or nuts
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/se...+line&x=95&y=5

Gas Line

Goes from sediment bulb on firewall down to the carb. This is a plated steel line with brass fittings, not for late 31's. U.S.A.

Gas Line Fitting

Brass gas line fittings like the originals. When you tighten it up, the ferrule will snap on the fitting. U.S.A. Part # A-9243 $ 1.35 each. I keep a couple of Spare Fittings

Yep! that's it! The only thing different is that the ferrule's attached so's you don't lose 'afore you get the danged thing +*%&$# squeezed on the line!
Somebody else mentioned string. Chief taught me that in an emergency, wind your own ferrule out of string. Lookin' at the end of the tube, wind it counter-clockwise so it doesn't "unwind" when the nut is screwed in! GOT THAT?? Bill W.

ken ct · 03-17-2013, 06:25 PM

I have never had one break-off like their supposed to.I usta break them off before installing.Dont use them any more. I have separate fittings and ferrels i use. Work every time. ken ct.

ken ct · 03-17-2013, 06:26 PM

That would be the cheapest way out ,buy a new line. ken ct

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

I'm thinking that it would be part #13490 on pg 58 in Brattons catalog.

I think that you're right Bill, about one side not having the taper on that ferrule. I may try removing most of the taper on one side.

Ross, you don't need to modify the taper on the ferrule itself. The sorta' rounded surface is on the nut itself & pushes just on the angled side of the ferrule. Bill W.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 07:03 PM

Dog here, And now, have we completed FERRULES-101?
What mind stimulating subject will we do next? Motor Oils, Timing, Anti Freeze, Gear Oils, Frame Sag, those dreaded FAM's, Alternators, Torque Specs, etc, have ALL been exhausted, along with exact procedures on replacing the Muffler Bearing! Buster T.

Ross/Kzoo · 03-17-2013, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Dog here, And now, have we completed FERRULES-101?
What mind stimulating subject will we do next? Motor Oils, Timing, Anti Freeze, Gear Oils, Frame Sag, those dreaded FAM's, Alternators, Torque Specs, etc, have ALL been exhausted, along with exact procedures on replacing the Muffler Bearing! Buster T.

Bill, I was thinking cotter pins!

ken ct · 03-17-2013, 07:51 PM

Same here do NOT modify ferrels,they will work out of the box. ken ct.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 07:59 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross/Kzoo

Bill, I was thinking cotter pins!

OH NO! Ross, I got in more trouble on that thread from smart a**ed remarks I made, and won't repeat! Some purists didn't interpret my remarks as "humor"! I don't think I was ever forgiven for calling Ol' Henry cheap, when it came to buying cotter keys. It was almost as if I had offended GOD! Ol' Henry wasn't perfect, either. Bill W.

dnkcurtis · 03-17-2013, 08:33 PM

No one mentioned that the tubing must extend beyond the end of the fitting, putting the Ferrule back from the end of the tubing. About a 1/4" or so.

Purdy Swoft · 03-17-2013, 08:40 PM

When the ferrule snaps off the fitting and fail they are usually junk and are not going to be re usable.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

When the ferrule snaps off the fitting and fail they are usually junk and are not going to be re usable.

Well, Brother Purdy, I'll find out tomorrow. Have a new gas line with "that" kind of fittings. I feel that if they are really "squeezed" down good, that they will be as re-usable as regular ferrules. Maybe they're tougher brass than the usual ferrules & take a little more OOMPAH! & a smear of grease to get them mated to the line well. They're designed to "pop" loose from the fitting when tightened to "squeeze" on the line. Bill W. (Even REAL brothers don't always agree on everything!)

sonny30coupe · 03-17-2013, 10:53 PM

I just bought one of those sediment bowls and when I tightened up the nut on the setiment bowl the ferrule got pushed up into the outlet and I had to dig it out of there with a drill bit. I dont think it will seal now.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-17-2013, 11:12 PM

Possibly, these "new fangled" fittings might not pan out & so back to the regular fittings. MAIN thing, through this long thread is that we don't want someone to have a GAS FIRE & destroy their car!! Bill W.

Tom Wesenberg · 03-18-2013, 01:17 AM

I also don't like the attached ferrule. You have to crank on the fitting until just before stripping the carb threads before the ferrule finally breaks off. I fixed a guys carb problem a couple years ago, when his car kept running out of gas. He had the nut only snug and had a bunch of teflon tape wrapped on the ferrule. The teflon tape was plugging the inlet, so I removed it and really cranked on the nut before the ferrule finally broke off and squeezed tight to the fuel line. That fixed his fuel leak and fuel blockage.

Mitch//pa · 03-18-2013, 06:39 AM

On the one piece break off ferrules i have been scoring them a little more with a small hacksaw blade so they break off easier when tightened. They seem to be made with a little to much material connecting them at the break point..

Joe K · 03-18-2013, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Possibly, these "new fangled" fittings might not pan out & so back to the regular fittings. MAIN thing, through this long thread is that we don't want someone to have a GAS FIRE & destroy their car!! Bill W.

Copper tubing? Works for the still.

Joe K

Ross/Kzoo · 03-18-2013, 08:56 AM

Success thanks to Bill W. I used the normal ferrule that has approx. 20 degree angle on both sides and generously used petroleum jelly on the ferrule and then tightened. I noticed that the ferrule at the carb was the normal 20 degree angle on one end and approx 45 degree angle on the other but since I didn't have that one I used the one that I did have. NO LEAKS. Thanks all and especially Bill W. I'll get the correct when I can find one.

dean333 · 07-11-2023, 03:12 AM

I bought a new gas line from the carb to the pump, when I installed it I couldn’t get it to stop leaking at the pump. When I took the line back off, the ferrule at the pump end was lying loose in the pump. I noticed a tiny nick on the ferrule so I got a new ferrule. I can’t get the new ferrule to seat on the line where the line should stick out at the end at least 1/32”. Subsequently I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten.

Y-Blockhead · 07-11-2023, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dean333

I bought a new gas line from the carb to the pump, when I installed it I couldn’t get it to stop leaking at the pump. When I took the line back off, the ferrule at the pump end was lying loose in the pump. I noticed a tiny nick on the ferrule so I got a new ferrule. I can’t get the new ferrule to seat on the line where the line should stick out at the end at least 1/32”. Subsequently I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten.

Snyder's has oversize ferrules that may help you seal your gas line. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9363&cat=41707

JayJay · 07-11-2023, 09:12 AM

I know you’re not supposed to do it, but I have been known to smear a light coat of thread sealant on the ferrule and on the threads of the compression nut when assembling. If nothing else it lubricates when you are tightening the nut to swedge the ferrule to the tubing, and helps prevent stripping out the pot metal on the sediment bowl.

Y-Blockhead · 07-11-2023, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dean333

I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayJay

I know you’re not supposed to do it, but I have been known to smear a light coat of thread sealant on the ferrule and on the threads of the compression nut when assembling. If nothing else it lubricates when you are tightening the nut to swedge the ferrule to the tubing, and helps prevent stripping out the pot metal on the sediment bowl.

Maybe, but if the nut does not tighten on the ferrule, what is going to hold the line in?

JayJay · 07-11-2023, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Maybe, but if the nut does not tighten on the ferrule, what is going to hold the line in?

I think those are two separate issues.

dean333 · 07-11-2023, 01:38 PM

Btt

Y-Blockhead · 07-12-2023, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dean333

I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayJay

I think those are two separate issues.

Not really. If he is running out of threads to tighten down on the ferrel, The gas line will pull right out. No amount of glue will prevent that.

katy · 07-13-2023, 09:36 AM

At times I've used cotton string for a packing. Wrap 3 or 4 turns around the line, between the nut and the ferrule. YMMV.

JayJay · 07-13-2023, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Not really. If he is running out of threads to tighten down on the ferrel, The gas line will pull right out. No amount of glue will prevent that.

I agree. What I was trying to say was that a bit of thread sealant will help with assuring leak-free, and I guess I should have qualified that by stating that I was assuming that the ferrule was properly crushing onto the tube. Clearly if you can’t crush the ferrule you will have leaks. And you can’t do that if your nut runs out of threads before crushing the ferrule.

In a former life one of my tasks was to teach young scientists how to properly assemble specialty gas systems using SwageLok fittings, and getting the ferrule properly fitted and assembled on the tubing is critical. One way to mess that up is to have too much tubing extending from the front of the ferrule so that there is insufficient room for the tubing to move once the crush onto the tubing begins. That will manifest itself during reassembly as “running out of threads”. Having too little tubing is another way to mess up the crush as the front of the ferrule won’t have any tubing to bite into. Sort of a Goldilocks thing.

Both of these scenarios assume that there is a proper match between the nut (on the tubing) and what you are installing into - sediment bowl, carburetor, manifold, whatever. An extra thick ferrule is one possible solution.

Sorry for the confusion.

03-17-2013, 01:08 PM	#2
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Fuel line ferrule Ross, if it's the ferrule that comes "attached" to the nut, maybe it wasn't tightened enough to pop loose from the nut & "squeeze" tightly on the line. Rub Vaseline on the ferrulle & nut & tighten VERY firmly. It has to squeeze on the line like a wedding ring on a fat man's finger. Bill W. ( You can buy ferrules at most any hardware store or auto parts) __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

03-17-2013, 01:10 PM	#3
Ross/Kzoo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richland Mi. Posts: 1,172	Re: Fuel line ferrule Bill, that ferrule is no longer here on this earth. Any ideas where I could get one?

03-17-2013, 01:14 PM	#4
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: Fuel line ferrule Isn't this just a standard 3/16" ferrule? I think you can get the compression nut too at the parts drawers at the Orange place. The parts houses have both the nut with the attached ferrule (it snaps off when you tighten) AND a "31 only" version which has the ferrule loose. The snap off version seem to be a "one use only" sort of thing. You might try some permatex gookum pucky (technical term) on this as you tighten. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.

03-17-2013, 01:17 PM	#5
Ross/Kzoo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richland Mi. Posts: 1,172	Re: Fuel line ferrule I believe it's 1/4" OD tubing and 9/16" threaded male end.

03-17-2013, 01:37 PM	#7
42merc Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Buchanan, MI Posts: 676	Re: Fuel line ferrule 1/4" ferrules are available at the hardware store in the plumbing department, cheap.

03-17-2013, 12:50 PM	#1
Ross/Kzoo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richland Mi. Posts: 1,172	Fuel line ferrule I changed carbs and I loosened the fitting on the fuel sediment bulb ('29). When I tightened it back up it didn't seal. It seems that the ferrule is not the normal ferrule, is that right? If not, can it be sourced locally? Thanks. Last edited by Ross/Kzoo; 03-17-2013 at 01:03 PM.

03-17-2013, 02:12 PM	#10
Ross/Kzoo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richland Mi. Posts: 1,172	Re: Fuel line ferrule I'm thinking that the brass fitting that I have had the ferrule attached and I thought that it was jammed. I muscled that ferrule off and tried using a normal ferrule. I think I'll need to find a new brass fitting that uses 9/16" fitting for 1/4" OD tubing. Thanks for the info because I didn't know that there was a fitting with the ferrule attached.

03-17-2013, 03:03 PM	#11
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Fuel line ferrule I've never had anything but problems with the fitting with the ferrule attached. When the fitting is tightened, the ferrule is suppose to attach itself to the fuel line tightly and remain in place. In other words, after the fitting is properly tightened, the ferrule should remain part of the fuel line and not slide off. If it will move after tightening, it will leak. Both ends of the fuel line use the same ferrule. Remove the fuel line and take it with you to the hardware or parts house so that they can see what you need. this will be your easiest bet. When you get the new ferrule, I would use a tubing cutter and cut a small piece of the fuel line off where the old ferrule fit, as it may be damaged. Be carefull when you install the new ferrule , it needs to be close to the end of the fuel line with a small amount of fuel line protruding past the ferrule or it can interere or cut off flow to the carb. Good luck, its a pain but not that difficult after you get the hang of it.

03-17-2013, 03:58 PM	#12
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Fuel line ferrule The ferrels wont work,i believe you need a "FORD FITTING" 1/2x20 and have the proper taper to seal the ferrel. I never had any luck with the attached ferrel,would never break off. I have them if you need. PM me. ken ct.

03-17-2013, 05:47 PM	#14
jj1928 Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sacramento Ca. Posts: 27	Re: Fuel line ferrule they seem to come on the 1/2 inch fitting. if your are not showing it I have been able to get the two piece fitting by getting the 9/16 fitting (nut size)

03-17-2013, 06:00 PM	#15
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Fuel line ferrule The fitting is special,thats why they call it a "FORD" nut it fits 1/4" od line and comes with a separate ferrel,i have them in stock if thats what you need. ken ct. The fitting is male threaded 1/2x20 to fit in a ford V8 carb,dont know if thats the size in a model"A" carb.

03-17-2013, 06:04 PM	#16
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Fuel line ferrule The nut does NOT have a pronounced taper to accept the ferrule. Just a smooth ridge to push against the ferrule, as the "sealing" is accomplished where the ferrule seats in the sediment bowl/carb. If you ever have a rough seat in the sediment bowl/carb, take a piece of old tubing with a ferrule attached, dab valve grinding on the ferrule, stick it in and turn it back & forth to smooth the seat, like: 1001 1002 1003 1004 1005 106----------You know what I mean! Someone stated awhile back that on the attached type fitting, he stuck a 1/4" drill bit shank in the ferrule, snapped it off & installed it in the usual manner. Vaseline's good for more than one thing!! puttin' some on the ferrule helps it "squuuueze" to the tube easier. When you're first puttin' a new ferrule, tighten until it "feels" tight, then use a tubing wrench at 3:00 position, push down with straight arm, using body weight, and you'll feel it "give as the ferrule "squeezes" onto the tube, gotta' look like a wedding ring on a fat man's finger! I type slooooow, I hope I don't have to ever type all this again. (just use search!) At least I've learned how to spell FERRULE correctly! Some have resorted to soldering ferrules to the line. This is sometimes need on an original line that has a "lap" seam from original manufacturing methods, instead of a "butt" seam that was used later. Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

03-17-2013, 06:05 PM	#17
Ross/Kzoo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richland Mi. Posts: 1,172	Re: Fuel line ferrule I'm thinking that it would be part #13490 on pg 58 in Brattons catalog. I think that you're right Bill, about one side not having the taper on that ferrule. I may try removing most of the taper on one side.

03-17-2013, 06:06 PM	#18
Jazzjr Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Crown Point, NY and Punta Gorda, FL. Posts: 259	Re: Fuel line ferrule Why don't you order a New Line part # A-9240-B fits 28-some 31's for $5.25 Probaly you old one is bent anyways. Here is a link to the Lines, ferrulels and or nuts http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/se...+line&x=95&y=5 Gas Line Goes from sediment bulb on firewall down to the carb. This is a plated steel line with brass fittings, not for late 31's. U.S.A. Gas Line Fitting Brass gas line fittings like the originals. When you tighten it up, the ferrule will snap on the fitting. U.S.A. Part # A-9243 $ 1.35 each. I keep a couple of Spare Fittings

03-17-2013, 06:25 PM	#20
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Fuel line ferrule I have never had one break-off like their supposed to.I usta break them off before installing.Dont use them any more. I have separate fittings and ferrels i use. Work every time. ken ct.

03-17-2013, 06:26 PM	#21
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Fuel line ferrule That would be the cheapest way out ,buy a new line. ken ct

03-17-2013, 07:03 PM	#23
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Fuel line ferrule Dog here, And now, have we completed FERRULES-101? What mind stimulating subject will we do next? Motor Oils, Timing, Anti Freeze, Gear Oils, Frame Sag, those dreaded FAM's, Alternators, Torque Specs, etc, have ALL been exhausted, along with exact procedures on replacing the Muffler Bearing! Buster T. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

03-17-2013, 07:51 PM	#25
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Fuel line ferrule Same here do NOT modify ferrels,they will work out of the box. ken ct.

03-17-2013, 08:33 PM	#27
dnkcurtis Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Hickory Corners, Mi Posts: 62	Re: Fuel line ferrule No one mentioned that the tubing must extend beyond the end of the fitting, putting the Ferrule back from the end of the tubing. About a 1/4" or so.

03-17-2013, 08:40 PM	#28
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Fuel line ferrule When the ferrule snaps off the fitting and fail they are usually junk and are not going to be re usable.

03-17-2013, 10:53 PM	#30
sonny30coupe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kansas City KS Posts: 255	Re: Fuel line ferrule I just bought one of those sediment bowls and when I tightened up the nut on the setiment bowl the ferrule got pushed up into the outlet and I had to dig it out of there with a drill bit. I dont think it will seal now.

03-17-2013, 11:12 PM	#31
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Fuel line ferrule Possibly, these "new fangled" fittings might not pan out & so back to the regular fittings. MAIN thing, through this long thread is that we don't want someone to have a GAS FIRE & destroy their car!! Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

03-18-2013, 01:17 AM	#32
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Fuel line ferrule I also don't like the attached ferrule. You have to crank on the fitting until just before stripping the carb threads before the ferrule finally breaks off. I fixed a guys carb problem a couple years ago, when his car kept running out of gas. He had the nut only snug and had a bunch of teflon tape wrapped on the ferrule. The teflon tape was plugging the inlet, so I removed it and really cranked on the nut before the ferrule finally broke off and squeezed tight to the fuel line. That fixed his fuel leak and fuel blockage.

03-18-2013, 06:39 AM	#33
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Fuel line ferrule On the one piece break off ferrules i have been scoring them a little more with a small hacksaw blade so they break off easier when tightened. They seem to be made with a little to much material connecting them at the break point..

03-18-2013, 08:56 AM	#35
Ross/Kzoo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richland Mi. Posts: 1,172	Re: Fuel line ferrule Success thanks to Bill W. I used the normal ferrule that has approx. 20 degree angle on both sides and generously used petroleum jelly on the ferrule and then tightened. I noticed that the ferrule at the carb was the normal 20 degree angle on one end and approx 45 degree angle on the other but since I didn't have that one I used the one that I did have. NO LEAKS. Thanks all and especially Bill W. I'll get the correct when I can find one.

07-11-2023, 03:12 AM	#36
dean333 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Shorewood Illinois Posts: 863	Re: Fuel line ferrule I bought a new gas line from the carb to the pump, when I installed it I couldn’t get it to stop leaking at the pump. When I took the line back off, the ferrule at the pump end was lying loose in the pump. I noticed a tiny nick on the ferrule so I got a new ferrule. I can’t get the new ferrule to seat on the line where the line should stick out at the end at least 1/32”. Subsequently I can’t tighten the line enough to get it to not leak, there’s no more threads left to tighten. __________________ Tim Carlig

07-11-2023, 09:12 AM	#38
JayJay Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 1,077	Re: Fuel line ferrule I know you’re not supposed to do it, but I have been known to smear a light coat of thread sealant on the ferrule and on the threads of the compression nut when assembling. If nothing else it lubricates when you are tightening the nut to swedge the ferrule to the tubing, and helps prevent stripping out the pot metal on the sediment bowl. __________________ JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan

07-11-2023, 01:38 PM	#41
dean333 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Shorewood Illinois Posts: 863	Re: Fuel line ferrule Btt __________________ Tim Carlig

07-13-2023, 09:36 AM	#43
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 5,046	Re: Fuel line ferrule At times I've used cotton string for a packing. Wrap 3 or 4 turns around the line, between the nut and the ferrule. YMMV. __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!