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Old 10-30-2020, 01:07 PM   #1
Mikko_
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Default Affordable Ford V8's

I'm currently in the process of putting together a 1928 Model A Phaeton powered by a 4 banger but I'm feeling the itch for a flathead V8 powered car too.

I've been reading up on different models but all I've come up with so far is that I definetly want a closed car, don't need 2 open top cars in the Swedish climate.

Budget is tight so the initial purchase cost would need to be around $10 000 so that pretty much rules out all coupe models I guess.

I'm no stranger to working on old cars but I want something that atleast is close to a running car.

What would your choice be with these criterias and why?
Happy to hear your opinions and suggestions.
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Old 10-30-2020, 01:22 PM   #2
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Default Re: Affordable Ford V8's

A 30's era coupe with a V-8 that is running.
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Old 10-30-2020, 01:25 PM   #3
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Welcome. Look carefully & you may find a older restoration model A coupe for under $10000. Then get a Vern Tardel book to build an A/V8. Getting a restored car gives you upholstery,bodywork & paint already completed along with being complete. Bid $$$ saved here. Model A’s of any model can still be purchased at a good price in the US if you take your time & look.
Good luck.
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Old 10-30-2020, 01:26 PM   #4
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Sorry double post.
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Old 10-30-2020, 01:28 PM   #5
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Given your "tight" budget, you should consider a four door car....
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Old 10-30-2020, 01:28 PM   #6
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For me it would be either a 1935/36 2 Door Slant Back OR either a 1939 Standard Two Door OR 39 Mercury Two Door. I think the 35/36 2 door slant back is sporty looking for a Sedan and I love the look and style of the 39 Standard and the 39 Mercury has a lower leaner look!!! OH and NO white wall tires on either PLEASE
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Old 10-30-2020, 01:33 PM   #7
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Default Re: Affordable Ford V8's

Go to Hemmings and search on your make, years, and dollar range (plus a little for negotiation). Not much "near running" shows up, but there are a few '49 - '53 sedans that could be fun.
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Old 10-30-2020, 01:42 PM   #8
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Default Re: Affordable Ford V8's

For a daily driver, I'd choose '50-'53 Ford 3 speed OD. These will have the gearing, suspension, comfort, and availability of parts and service you'll want at a reasonable price.


For a car that may sit idle during much of the year, consider a '37 or '38 Ford. These will have cable mechanical brakes, which will prove to be reliably superior to early hydraulics.


Any car you decide on should be the best example of that model you can find, even if you have to pay premium for it. You'll be sorry if you go for the bargain without considering the long term costs.
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Old 10-30-2020, 01:56 PM   #9
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Default Re: Affordable Ford V8's

Great answers.
Budget could probably be stretched a bit above 10k, winter is coming so I have a few months to do some more saving before next summer.

AV8's are cool and I have the Tardel/Bishop book but with one Model A project going already I feel like I don't need another big project right now, even if I have a ´47 flathead and '37 toploader sitting in the garage.

I will look into the 35/36 slantbacks a bit more, thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 10-30-2020, 05:16 PM   #10
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Kind of like a "which oil is best questions". The later the car the more comfortable and the more complicated. I would think anything from 39 to 48 is a happy medium. Nothing against earlier or later all have quirks but just a medium.
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Old 10-30-2020, 05:29 PM   #11
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Default Re: Affordable Ford V8's

I'm not looking for a definitive answer, just want to hear some opinions from more experienced people than myself.

Fully aware of that it's my decision to make in the end of what car to buy.
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Old 10-30-2020, 07:07 PM   #12
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How about a Volvo 544, seeing as how you're in Sweden? They look like a 41 Ford.
Just kidding of course.
I love old Volvos- I have two 1800's and a 544.
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Old 10-30-2020, 07:32 PM   #13
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The 1939 and 1940 Tudors and Fordors are relatively inexpensive for what you get. The 39 has that classic dash and floor shift as well as the last year for bulb headlights before Ford went to sealed beams. The 40 has a 'modern' dash, shift on the column and just slightly more visible tail lights. One caution, check the rear end ratio stamped as a series of numbers on the differential pumpkin. Mine turned out to be a 4.11, too low for highway speeds but a great excuse to buy and install. Mitchell overdrive. Good luck finding your V8, you'll enjoy it along with the A, as I do.
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Old 10-30-2020, 09:34 PM   #14
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Hi; Buyer just shipped my '34 circle track car to Germany and I saw the bill of lading, under $2500 I remember. Oakland docks to Germany by way of the Panama Canal. Newc
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Old 10-30-2020, 10:15 PM   #15
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Default Re: Affordable Ford V8's

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Originally Posted by Jim in Wisconsin View Post
How about a Volvo 544, seeing as how you're in Sweden? They look like a 41 Ford.
Just kidding of course.
I love old Volvos- I have two 1800's and a 544.
My best buddy on this ford starved island tools around every day in a 544 Duett, which is pretty much a suburban/panel delivery volvo. He has a chicken crate (which I gave him, from Jonesborough Arkansas) on the roof rack, along with a bald spare tire and a galvanized gas can. I gave him the chicken crate because his mom was born in Johnsborough AR. Maybe I find a pic later.
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Old 10-30-2020, 10:35 PM   #16
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Default Re: Affordable Ford V8's

Couldnt help myself. John is such a great guy, even though he is a volvo guy. G&otta say it's a cool vehicle.
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Old 10-31-2020, 01:00 AM   #17
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Couldnt help myself. John is such a great guy, even though he is a volvo guy. G&otta say it's a cool vehicle.


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Old 10-31-2020, 03:38 AM   #18
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How about a Volvo 544, seeing as how you're in Sweden? They look like a 41 Ford.
Just kidding of course.
I love old Volvos- I have two 1800's and a 544.
Funny you mention it because it has crossed my mind but these days they bring almost the same money as a Ford V8.
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Old 10-31-2020, 03:48 AM   #19
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The 1939 and 1940 Tudors and Fordors are relatively inexpensive for what you get. The 39 has that classic dash and floor shift as well as the last year for bulb headlights before Ford went to sealed beams. The 40 has a 'modern' dash, shift on the column and just slightly more visible tail lights. One caution, check the rear end ratio stamped as a series of numbers on the differential pumpkin. Mine turned out to be a 4.11, too low for highway speeds but a great excuse to buy and install. Mitchell overdrive. Good luck finding your V8, you'll enjoy it along with the A, as I do.
I do like the looks of 39-40 Tudors and Fordors a lot better than 41-48 Tudors and Fordors.
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Old 10-31-2020, 03:51 AM   #20
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Here Mikko,

You won't get much cheaper than this '39 dlx 4dr.Its on the west coast so shipping to a port won't break the bank.Make sure the title matches the frame number.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ested.1209365/
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Old 10-31-2020, 07:45 AM   #21
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I'm not sure what the market is where you are, but in the states you can find '41-48 coupes that have been sitting a few years and will need a good going over to get back on the road in the $10k range. Two door sedans in that shape are $5-6K. Sounds like you'd be just the guy to put one back on the road.
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Old 10-31-2020, 09:47 AM   #22
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Here Mikko,

You won't get much cheaper than this '39 dlx 4dr.Its on the west coast so shipping to a port won't break the bank.Make sure the title matches the frame number.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ested.1209365/
Cool car but those floorpans looks rustier than I would like them to be.
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Old 10-31-2020, 09:50 AM   #23
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I'm not sure what the market is where you are, but in the states you can find '41-48 coupes that have been sitting a few years and will need a good going over to get back on the road in the $10k range. Two door sedans in that shape are $5-6K. Sounds like you'd be just the guy to put one back on the road.
Nothing more fun than waking up an old car that's been sitting for a few years.
As long as it's not rusted out since I'm not into major rust repairs.
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Old 10-31-2020, 03:15 PM   #24
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I'm not sure what the market is where you are, but in the states you can find '41-48 coupes that have been sitting a few years and will need a good going over to get back on the road in the $10k range. Two door sedans in that shape are $5-6K. Sounds like you'd be just the guy to put one back on the road.
Bingo ! I would look for a 46-48 " long door " coupe . They are good looking cars , & solid examples can be found in the 10k range , as stated above .
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Old 10-31-2020, 05:35 PM   #25
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Look for something that has been in a climate free of road salt and get photos of the floor pans, rocker panels, etc. Fordor sedans will be the most economical for you and especially great if you have kids.
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Old 10-31-2020, 06:07 PM   #26
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This one is on my island... I could go look at it for you tomorrow. It is more than likely one that belonged to an old friend. I remember a couple years ago I helped him get it running after it sat.
https://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/d/...213422029.html
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Old 11-01-2020, 11:06 AM   #27
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This one is on my island... I could go look at it for you tomorrow. It is more than likely one that belonged to an old friend. I remember a couple years ago I helped him get it running after it sat.
https://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/d/...213422029.html

I appreciate the offer but I'm not ready to pull the trigger just yet.
First I need to decide what model I really want before I start throwing money around.
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Old 11-01-2020, 11:16 AM   #28
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Bingo ! I would look for a 46-48 " long door " coupe . They are good looking cars , & solid examples can be found in the 10k range , as stated above .
46-48 coupes are on my list of potential cars.
And I just happen to have an engine and trans from a ´47 laying around, good to have if needed for spare parts.

Quote:
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Look for something that has been in a climate free of road salt and get photos of the floor pans, rocker panels, etc. Fordor sedans will be the most economical for you and especially great if you have kids.
Fordors are definetly less expensive and I have nothing against them, but since my Model A phaeton is a 4-door car I would prefer a 2-door this time.

No kids at the moment but I'm 28 years old and don't know what the future will bring.
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Old 12-07-2020, 10:54 AM   #29
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Well, I ended up buying a 1953 Customline 2-door.
With Fordomatic trans and original power steering.

Can't wait 'til it arrives here in Sweden from sunny California.
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Old 12-07-2020, 12:28 PM   #30
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Looks very original, radio, clock and magic air heater along with automatic and power steering. The original buyer must have ordered it. Be interesting to see what assembly plant it came from.
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Old 12-07-2020, 12:47 PM   #31
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According to the seller it came from the San Jose assembly plant.
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Old 12-07-2020, 01:31 PM   #32
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According to the seller it came from the San Jose assembly plant.

mikko, the seller is mistaken. He may have assumed San Jose if he had been told "local assembly". At the time your '53 Ford was assembled, Richmond would have been the assembly plant serving the area.
The San Jose (Milpitas) Ford plant opened in 1955, using equipment from the then closed Richmond plant, 50 miles north of San Jose.
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Old 12-07-2020, 01:40 PM   #33
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The biggest issue is: What can you do to improve the car?? Can you do body work? Mechanical work? Early body parts are hard to find and are expensive, so buying a car with a bad motor. might be cheaper in the long run. But a car with a running engine, might need allot of body work. You really DON;T get what you pay for.
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Old 12-07-2020, 01:51 PM   #34
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If I am not mistaken, I can see the filler cap for the power steering pump in the engine photo. That is a rare and valuable option. I always like to see an engine with it's factory air cleaner and other original components intact.

All in all the car looks very solid. I can only see one door handle, so that's good news, and it even looks like it might be a coupe, although it's tough to tell from the angle of the photo. A few more details and photos would be appreciated.
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Old 12-07-2020, 02:51 PM   #35
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The biggest issue is: What can you do to improve the car?? Can you do body work? Mechanical work? Early body parts are hard to find and are expensive, so buying a car with a bad motor. might be cheaper in the long run. But a car with a running engine, might need allot of body work. You really DON;T get what you pay for.
The Customline in the pictures is what I bought.
Engine is running, body and frame are solid.

Brakes, cooling system and fuel system is what needs work to make it a driver and that is no problem for me to handle.
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Old 12-07-2020, 02:52 PM   #36
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mikko, the seller is mistaken. He may have assumed San Jose if he had been told "local assembly". At the time your '53 Ford was assembled, Richmond would have been the assembly plant serving the area.
The San Jose (Milpitas) Ford plant opened in 1955, using equipment from the then closed Richmond plant, 50 miles north of San Jose.
Then it was probably assembled in Richmond.

Anyway to find out for sure where it was assembled?
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Old 12-07-2020, 02:54 PM   #37
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If I am not mistaken, I can see the filler cap for the power steering pump in the engine photo. That is a rare and valuable option. I always like to see an engine with it's factory air cleaner and other original components intact.

All in all the car looks very solid. I can only see one door handle, so that's good news, and it even looks like it might be a coupe, although it's tough to tell from the angle of the photo. A few more details and photos would be appreciated.
Yes, it has factory power steering and it's a 2 door sedan, not a coupe.
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Old 12-07-2020, 04:38 PM   #38
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Then it was probably assembled in Richmond.

Anyway to find out for sure where it was assembled?

Your patent data plate should have that info. I believe that an R after the model code would be the Richmond plant. I'm not a late model guy, so consider the source.
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Old 12-07-2020, 04:51 PM   #39
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Nice car!!!......Good for you!!!!.......Keep us updated....... Mark
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Old 12-07-2020, 07:54 PM   #40
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I'm currently in the process of putting together a 1928 Model A Phaeton powered by a 4 banger but I'm feeling the itch for a flathead V8 powered car too.

I've been reading up on different models but all I've come up with so far is that I definetly want a closed car, don't need 2 open top cars in the Swedish climate.

Budget is tight so the initial purchase cost would need to be around $10 000 so that pretty much rules out all coupe models I guess.

I'm no stranger to working on old cars but I want something that atleast is close to a running car.

What would your choice be with these criterias and why?
Happy to hear your opinions and suggestions.
There's a very nice looking '48 Fordor that just got listed on the Early Ford Club site. By the looks of it , perhaps one of the nicer one that's been offered in a while. While it is a six cylinder, it does have a Columbia overdrive. These post war sixes are GOOD engines.
These 48's are very nice driving cars - better than the prewar models in my opinion.
The guy is asking $15k which may seem fair but methinks if you're patient, the realistic price will be closer to $12k.
For that, how could you go wrong?
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Old 12-07-2020, 08:02 PM   #41
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That 53 with V8, auto, and power steering will make a nice driver. Turns a bit wide, and the doors feel like a mile long when you have to park close to another car, but very nice to drive.
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Old 12-07-2020, 08:36 PM   #42
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Yea; You need a running drive-able car to facilitate export movements. The shippers really don't want to deal with dead cars. Recommend a batt cut off for the long trip in a container. 52/53' s are an excellent choice for modern type conveniences. Newc
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Old 12-09-2020, 12:19 AM   #43
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The car is getting transported by West Coast Shipping, no complaints about it not being driveable.

Old picture of the car, from the late 80's.
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Old 12-09-2020, 12:37 AM   #44
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A handsome automobile by anyone's standards. Certainly by mine.
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Old 12-14-2020, 02:08 PM   #45
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I'm trying to decode the VIN of the 1953 Customline and I found out this, but earlier in this thread I was told that the San Jose assembly plant didn't open until 1955?

B = Flathead V8
3 = 1953
R = San Jose, CA
G = Body style (in this case Tudor Customline)

Or am I missing something here?
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Old 12-23-2020, 11:49 AM   #46
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Any thoughts on the question I had above?


And the car has arrived at the shipping company's storage faciltity, waiting to get loaded into a container and shipped across the Atlantic.
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Old 12-23-2020, 01:10 PM   #47
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Any thoughts on the question I had above?


And the car has arrived at the shipping company's storage faciltity, waiting to get loaded into a container and shipped across the Atlantic.
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Old 12-23-2020, 02:09 PM   #48
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Mikko, you might consider buying the Early Ford V-8 Club's 1952-53 book.It's a two volume book that will give you a ton of information on your "new" Ford. According to the V-8 Club book the R in your number is the Richmond, Ca. assembly plant.
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Old 12-23-2020, 03:16 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Mikko_ View Post
I'm trying to decode the VIN of the 1953 Customline and I found out this, but earlier in this thread I was told that the San Jose assembly plant didn't open until 1955?

B = Flathead V8
3 = 1953
R = San Jose, CA
G = Body style (in this case Tudor Customline)

Or am I missing something here?
Yes, you're missing something here. When Ford started adding the assembly plant code to the VIN you can see many of the plant codes used the first letter of the city the plant was in, such as 'A'-Atlanta, 'B'-Buffalo, etc.

Think about it - 'R' = Richmond, as in Richmond, California. They probably kept using the same code when the plant closed down and moved in '55 rather than assign a new one - might be same story with 'E'-Mahawa, NJ as well as it came on-line in 1956 to replace another plant (and I'll wager dollars to kroner it's city/plant name started with a 'E'). Dearborn's 'F' probably is 'F' for 'Ford' and its main plant at the Rouge since Dearborn and Dallas both start with 'D'. Why Chicago got 'G' and Chester, PA got 'C' I don't know - probably because 'G' was an open character in the string of what was used. If you pay attention, the 'P' for Twin Cities takes the first letter of the second word in the city's name, i.e. St. Paul, as 'S' was taken by Somerville - why they didn't use 'T' requires some more digging - maybe because there was a truck other plant that started with a 'T' during the '40s-'50s?

The attached plant code list, which appears to be from the '53-'57 Ford Car Body Parts Catalog and found on the Crown Victoria Ass'n's website
( https://thecvaonline.com/howtos/DataPlateDecoder.pdf )
probably doesn't take the Richmond/San Jose change into account.
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Old 12-24-2020, 03:55 AM   #50
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Makes sense they didn't change the letter when the plant moved.
Thanks for the clarification.

I'm new to these old Fords but like to learn as much as possible.
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Old 12-24-2020, 03:25 PM   #51
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You better not leave it at the storage facility too long or the tires may disappear like the coupe in the background.

I saw a Youtube video on washing the car with CLR, I think it was, to remove most of the patina on the hood and front fender. That is a nice, straight looking car with good looking chrome. Let us know when it arrives.
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Old 03-25-2021, 12:28 PM   #52
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Today the car arrived at my place.
Very happy with it and looking forward to get it drivable again.
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Old 03-25-2021, 01:35 PM   #53
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No kids at the moment but I'm 28 years old and don't know what the future will bring.
Glad to hear it arrived and you are happy with your purchase. And very glad to see a young guy enthusiastic about our old flatheads.
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Old 03-25-2021, 03:00 PM   #54
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Today the car arrived at my place.
Very happy with it and looking forward to get it drivable again.
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Old 03-25-2021, 03:20 PM   #55
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Glad to hear it arrived and you are happy with your purchase. And very glad to see a young guy enthusiastic about our old flatheads.
I'm one of those rare young persons that appreciates pretty much all things that are old.
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Old 03-25-2021, 03:37 PM   #56
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I'm one of those rare young persons that appreciates pretty much all things that are old.
That car looks like it's going to be a lot of fun for you! Good for you!
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Old 03-26-2021, 05:30 AM   #57
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Good luck to you and your project!

I think you have a great and unmolested car to start with and you'll get it in running/driving shape in no time. Keep us posted of your build process and progress - we all love to see younger folks getting into the cars that we all love. Also, this site has a lot of knowledge - tap into it as frequently as you need . . . we're all here to help. Best of luck!
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Old 03-26-2021, 10:09 AM   #58
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Going to start with rebuilding the brakes.
Picture of the front before tear down.
Hose and cylinder will be replaced with new stuff.

Also found a manifold in the trunk which I believe is for use with dual exhaust?
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Old 03-26-2021, 10:18 AM   #59
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Mikko, just a personal, curiosity question:
You are in Sweden, but everything you have written is in perfect English. Better written than most of us native English speakers. Are you native English, and you, like your car, were transported to Sweden?

I am always impressed by multi-lingual people, because I know my brain doesn't have what it takes to learn a foreign language. Couldn't do it!
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Old 03-26-2021, 10:32 AM   #60
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one of our V8 ers passed away and the family want to move 51 tudor with a new engine and lot of work was done on the car. look it up on v8 for sale it is in anderson,sc and they are ready to deal
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Old 03-26-2021, 10:38 AM   #61
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Mikko, just a personal, curiosity question:
You are in Sweden, but everything you have written is in perfect English. Better written than most of us native English speakers. Are you native English, and you, like your car, were transported to Sweden?

I am always impressed by multi-lingual people, because I know my brain doesn't have what it takes to learn a foreign language. Couldn't do it!
Jay, I have been (feebly) attempting to learn Spanish. Like you, I wonder if my brain remains capable. Quite frustrating at times.
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Old 03-26-2021, 10:39 AM   #62
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Mikko, just a personal, curiosity question:
You are in Sweden, but everything you have written is in perfect English. Better written than most of us native English speakers. Are you native English, and you, like your car, were transported to Sweden?

I am always impressed by multi-lingual people, because I know my brain doesn't have what it takes to learn a foreign language. Couldn't do it!
I was born in Sweden and have lived here my whole life.
Mikko is actually a finnish name and the reason for that is because both my parents are from Finland, so I can actually speak some finnish too but swedish is my native language that I feel most comfartably with.

Writing and reading in English have always been easy for me for some reason, don't know why.
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Old 03-26-2021, 08:31 PM   #63
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When doing brakes don't neglect to change the rear hose. Yes, that is a driver's side dual exhaust manifold. The 52-53 cars had factory optional duals (rare); most of the system was already in Ford's parts bin since the 6 cylinder cars run the exhaust down the other side from the V8 cars...

Last edited by 38 coupe; 03-26-2021 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 03-26-2021, 10:09 PM   #64
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Nothing wrong with a 1938 Ford Fordor Sedan. These old 4 door Fords are very reasonably priced.
The only change that this one has is that it has Headlight Rims to suit the Sealed Beam Headlights. Very nice car.
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Old 03-27-2021, 01:47 PM   #65
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I'd say that Mikko has a bit of Finnish 'Sisu' . . .
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Old 03-27-2021, 08:46 PM   #66
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Mikko, Check out Ebay !They have an original 1935 tudor flat back you might be able to purchase for less than 10 grand. Looks to be a good car.
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:06 AM   #67
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Thanks for the suggestions on cars to buy but I already have a '53 Customline now.
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:07 AM   #68
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When doing brakes don't neglect to change the rear hose. Yes, that is a driver's side dual exhaust manifold. The 52-53 cars had factory optional duals (rare); most of the system was already in Ford's parts bin since the 6 cylinder cars run the exhaust down the other side from the V8 cars...
I have all new parts for the brakes, including the rear hose.

Thanks for the confirmation regarding the manifold.
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Old 03-29-2021, 10:26 AM   #69
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Brakes all done on the front, just waiting for a new outer wheel bearing for the left side.

Also got the front wheels painted, put on some new Firestone's and did a testfit on the car along with the hubcaps, I like how it looks and can't wait until it's back on the ground.

I had already decided that I was going to paint the wheels red before the car arrived here, and apparently some previous owner had the same idea as I since the outer lip had been painted red sometime long ago.
So it kinda feels like this was meant to be.
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Old 03-29-2021, 11:23 AM   #70
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Mikko, Short shoe front and rear? is that right?

Mart.
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Old 03-29-2021, 11:37 AM   #71
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Mikko, Short shoe front and rear? is that right?

Mart.
Absolutely not, looked at the photo of the old ones and the rear is longer.

Thanks for the heads up, I just assumed they were all the same without looking.

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Old 03-29-2021, 11:58 AM   #72
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Good eye, Mart. I looked right at it and didn't see it.
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Old 03-30-2021, 12:11 PM   #73
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Swapped the brake shoes so I got the one with the longer lining towards the rear of the car, adjusted the brakes and then down on the ground to have a look with the wheels.

Looks like it's been lowered a bit, haven't even settled yet from driving.

Also got the new master cylinder installed.
Now on to the rear brakes.
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Old 04-02-2021, 08:08 AM   #74
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Rear brakes all done and bled, still need to bleed the front brakes.

Put the rear wheels back on and let the car down on the ground.
Looking good in the garage atleast, we'll see how it looks from a bit of distance later on.

And then I just had to pour some gasoline in the carb and turn the key.
Didn't take many turns on the starter for it to fire up, so fun even if it only lasted a couple of seconds.
Cranking was really slow even for 6 volt so I'm going to replace the battery cables with new ones and see if that helps.
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Old 05-19-2021, 11:17 PM   #75
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Haven't posted for a while but she is a runner now.
Runs very smooth and quiet, starts easily too.

All the lights work too except for the brake lights and turn signals so that needs figuring out.
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Old 05-20-2021, 07:40 AM   #76
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41 to 48 ford coups there not to expensive & they ride nice
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Old 05-20-2021, 10:58 PM   #77
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They probably are but I already bought the '53 Customline seen in the pictures.
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Old 05-20-2021, 11:10 PM   #78
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I had a 53 customline 4dr as one of my first cars. I6 with OD. Great car, love all the jet references. Would like to have it now. Could have drove it anywhere.

Clean all your grounds and connections. New cables is a good idea.


Could have been twin cars. Like the color. I had crestline hubcaps, went back to the mainline/Customline dog dishes and added 3 rib beauty rims with black wheels. 7.00 4" wide whites walls (like the crestline and sunline 7.00 tires). 2" blocks out back and fatman drop spindles on the front. If you like. https://www.fatmanfab.com/product/dr...opped-spindles You can get just lowering springs also from fatman. Better then cutting a spring. If you have a lot of astrovans in sweden the spring out of them will work too, to give a little drop. If you want to lower it, that is.



from a half swed proud american mutt to a swed. haha
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Old 05-21-2021, 12:30 PM   #79
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Nice car Tinker.

Height wise I think my car looks pretty good right now, but could maybe use like a 1 inch block in the rear to even it out a bit.
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Old 05-22-2021, 09:03 AM   #80
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Great start Mikko: keep the pictures coming.
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Old 05-22-2021, 10:14 PM   #81
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Height wise I think my car looks pretty good right now, but could maybe use like a 1 inch block in the rear to even it out a bit.

Nice looking project! Likes like all the trim is there, except for the lower passenger rear quarter. Put a post out there now, as it might take some time to find it. Sometimes you get lucky also.
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Old 05-26-2021, 03:54 PM   #82
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Mikko,
Good looking 53. Actually, that year Ford was the first Ford I ever rode in. A few years later my family bought a 57 convertible with a 312 automatic and a Town and Country radio.
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