The Ford Barn

albjerryg · 09-29-2017, 06:28 AM

I was told to remove the 3 speed transmission the rear end would have to be remove? Is the no other option? Thanks for any help. Jerry

skidmarks · 09-29-2017, 06:37 AM

Pull the motor

rotorwrench · 09-29-2017, 06:50 AM

Removing the rear axle as a complete drive unit with spring attached is not as difficult a task as folks might think as long as a person has a way to support the frame and body at the rear of the vehicle and in front of the rear axle. The whole thing can be rolled back in order to pull the trans. As was mentioned, option two is to pull the motor and trans at the front.

albjerryg · 09-29-2017, 07:31 AM

Ok thanks that is what I thought. Jerry

Fibber Mcgee · 09-29-2017, 07:56 AM

And the heater, to get to the top transmission bolts.

drolston · 09-29-2017, 12:56 PM

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I have done it both ways, and prefer to roll the rear end back rather than pull the engine. Because of steep dangle-angle to pull the engine out of a '41 with the transmission attached, you have to take the hood off. An then there is the pain of exhaust pipes and chatter rods to deal with. The rear springs on the '41 bolt directly to the bottom of the cross member, but the U bolts can only be pushed up about half way, so you have to get the rear of the car jacked up pretty far for the spring to clear the U bolts. You should disconnect the speedometer turtle, but you can leave the brake hose connected. That leaves the shock dog bones as the remaining link. You might be able to force the rear to roll back far enough with them still attached, but I disconnected one end. The shock link removal tool is about $50, but well worth it.

Once the rear is rolled back enough to disconnect the U joint from the rear of the transmission, block the front of the torque tube down as far as you can, because the rear of the transmission is going to have to come back over it, and you can only jack up the rear of the engine so far, due to the bell housing hitting the firewall. Disconnect the clutch actuator bar and remove the top transmission bolts before jacking up the engine. I suggest two strong young lads to slide the transmission back and lift it out of the floor. Removing the seat makes it easier, but is not necessary.

Given what a pain it is either way, be sure the clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throwout bearing are in good shape before putting the transmission back in, If the transmission is wiggled in removing it, the clutch disk can get misaligned with the pilot bearing, so check said alignment before putting the tranny back in. Use an old transmission front shaft, or they sell a clutch alignment tool. Nothing more frustrating than fighting to get the 80 lb transmission lined up and having it refuse to go forward that last inch.

With the transmission in neutral, it is usually not too hard to get the U joint to slip on. It takes one person at the rear, rolling the rear forward, and one at the front aligning the joint to the shaft. Watch your fingers!

Have fun!

albjerryg · 09-30-2017, 02:24 PM

Sounds good thanks for the detail advice. Thanks Jerry

dwick01 · 12-08-2017, 06:34 AM

Great information drolston. Thanks for sharing. I am in process of doing the same thing on my '47 sedan to replace the clutch. Lots of good tips.

slowforty · 12-08-2017, 08:05 AM

You may have to turn the transmission to one side to pull it back to clear the cross member. I had to do this on my 40.

09-29-2017, 06:28 AM	#1
albjerryg Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lafayette, La. Posts: 181	1941 Ford Tranmission I was told to remove the 3 speed transmission the rear end would have to be remove? Is the no other option? Thanks for any help. Jerry

09-29-2017, 06:37 AM	#2
skidmarks Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: newark, delaware Posts: 3,735	Re: 1941 Ford Tranmission Pull the motor

09-29-2017, 06:50 AM	#3
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,422	Re: 1941 Ford Tranmission Removing the rear axle as a complete drive unit with spring attached is not as difficult a task as folks might think as long as a person has a way to support the frame and body at the rear of the vehicle and in front of the rear axle. The whole thing can be rolled back in order to pull the trans. As was mentioned, option two is to pull the motor and trans at the front.

09-29-2017, 07:31 AM	#4
albjerryg Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lafayette, La. Posts: 181	Re: 1941 Ford Tranmission Ok thanks that is what I thought. Jerry

09-29-2017, 07:56 AM	#5
Fibber Mcgee Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Callahan Fla Posts: 1,149	Re: 1941 Ford Tranmission And the heater, to get to the top transmission bolts. __________________ Wanted, a car with a " Dynaflex Superflowing Unijet Turbovasculator which is Syncromeshed to the Multicoil Hydrotensioned Dual vacuum Dynomometer. "

09-29-2017, 12:56 PM	#6
drolston Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Williamsburg, VA Posts: 1,627	Re: 1941 Ford Tranmission Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have done it both ways, and prefer to roll the rear end back rather than pull the engine. Because of steep dangle-angle to pull the engine out of a '41 with the transmission attached, you have to take the hood off. An then there is the pain of exhaust pipes and chatter rods to deal with. The rear springs on the '41 bolt directly to the bottom of the cross member, but the U bolts can only be pushed up about half way, so you have to get the rear of the car jacked up pretty far for the spring to clear the U bolts. You should disconnect the speedometer turtle, but you can leave the brake hose connected. That leaves the shock dog bones as the remaining link. You might be able to force the rear to roll back far enough with them still attached, but I disconnected one end. The shock link removal tool is about $50, but well worth it. Once the rear is rolled back enough to disconnect the U joint from the rear of the transmission, block the front of the torque tube down as far as you can, because the rear of the transmission is going to have to come back over it, and you can only jack up the rear of the engine so far, due to the bell housing hitting the firewall. Disconnect the clutch actuator bar and remove the top transmission bolts before jacking up the engine. I suggest two strong young lads to slide the transmission back and lift it out of the floor. Removing the seat makes it easier, but is not necessary. Given what a pain it is either way, be sure the clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throwout bearing are in good shape before putting the transmission back in, If the transmission is wiggled in removing it, the clutch disk can get misaligned with the pilot bearing, so check said alignment before putting the tranny back in. Use an old transmission front shaft, or they sell a clutch alignment tool. Nothing more frustrating than fighting to get the 80 lb transmission lined up and having it refuse to go forward that last inch. With the transmission in neutral, it is usually not too hard to get the U joint to slip on. It takes one person at the rear, rolling the rear forward, and one at the front aligning the joint to the shaft. Watch your fingers! Have fun!

09-30-2017, 02:24 PM	#7
albjerryg Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lafayette, La. Posts: 181	Re: 1941 Ford Tranmission Sounds good thanks for the detail advice. Thanks Jerry

12-08-2017, 06:34 AM	#8
dwick01 Senior Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Wellington, Kansas Posts: 444	Re: 1941 Ford Tranmission Great information drolston. Thanks for sharing. I am in process of doing the same thing on my '47 sedan to replace the clutch. Lots of good tips.

12-08-2017, 08:05 AM	#9
slowforty Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tinley Park Ill Posts: 1,060	Re: 1941 Ford Tranmission You may have to turn the transmission to one side to pull it back to clear the cross member. I had to do this on my 40.