Engine compartment pans

[daveymc29]

Has anyone had good experience with the engine pans from the suppliers that are powder coated and bolt to the frame on the side away from the engine and slip under the engine, but above the pan on the engine side? I have originals that are cracked near the mounting tabs, tabs missing and generally needing complete restoration. My car is not a high point car, so I'm looking for utility without a lot of expense. About $80 per pr. seems probably what I'd pay a welder to fix what I have and I'd still have to paint or powder coat, so this seems like a bargain, if they can be made to fit by your average person, not a highly skilled body man.
Thanks for any comments. I would like to get these in place to restore the correct air flow in the engine compartment, which seems to be the purpose of them originally, is it not?

[Mitch//pa]

they always worked good for me plus they are PC'ed a good value

[29tudorsedan]

I like them, but correct me if I'm wrong, the only ones reproduced are 30-31, I have a 29 and they fit, but not as well as original 29 pans I've seen.

As far as function I believe yes they were to aid airflow and to keep the compartment clean especially considering roads of the era. Also if you drive in all weather it's one less place to water to enter.

[glenn in camino]

I did some metal work on a repo set to make them fit my 28 tudor frame with the bolts in the front cross member. Then I had them powder coated. Probably not perfect, but they look great, and seem to pass judging. Don't tell anyone.

[700rpm]

Fix your originals. They are hard to find and they fit properly. Or get new ones and give your originals to me.

[Tom Endy]

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Reproduction engine splash pans have a tendency to break at the two tabs that bolt to the engine pan on each side. When they break you will know it because when the engine spools down it sets up a resonance and the vibration makes a racket.

I made up some step brackets that fit over the broken tabs and better secures the splash pan to the engine pan.

Tom Endy

[daveymc29]

Tom, do the tabs break off real quickly, or will they hold together for a few years of driving? By that i mean perhaps 2000 miles per year on average.

[w.michael]

Daddy and I installed a set of powdered coated repro splash pans in 2009. They fit reasonably well and were not all that hard to install. I've driven about 1,000 miles per year since then, and they haven't cracked yet. The powder coating has held up well to gasoline and antifreeze.

They bolt BELOW the oil pan, not above it.

W. Michael

[Tom Wesenberg]

Stick with the main parts houses when you buy the pans.

I bought a set from Howell's and wasn't too thrilled when they arrived. They look like they were cut out using dull tin snips.

[slackcat]

I had a set on my '54 customline, didn't know they were around for so many years.

[jrelliott]

Check with Sammy @ Arizona Model A, 15838 S. Gilbert Rd. Chandler, AZ 85225 (480) 782-0266. Got a used pair of Powder Coated Pans for the '28 for $30.00 and went on without any trouble. He has both new and used pans.

[dlfrisch]

As TomEndy (#6 thread) stated - when I de-accelerate the reverberation is really loud. Sometimes, I even push in the clutch to ease up on the noise. When we worked on the engine, of course, the side metal air scoops were taken off. I sanded and repainted them. When reinstalled, I made sure the side bolts on each side were installed OK and the oil pan tab was installed. On each side, one engine pan tab (bolt hole) was taken off or just broke off in the past, so I only have one engine pan bolt tab to connect to the oil pan - on both sides. Both side frame bolts are all nice and tight. I have checked all over the engine compartment, the hood hinges, fender bolts, radiator, the dash mounts and I can’t locate the reverberating riddle, when I spool down, going down a hill or even in traffic. Even though those pans are tight, I may have some hermonic noise making or contributing to make a racket. Maybe that, missing pan tab is what is making the problem.

Any ideas are appreciated ?????

[daveymc29]

So the pans mount below the engine pan? No wonder mine were broken off at the tabs. When I took mine off years ago they had been sandwiched in between the block and engine pan. All the tabs were cracked and sort of hanging down. One was broken off and another broke off as I pulled it out from under the loosened engine pan.

[Classiccanuck]

always try to use original metal, I have yet to buy anything reproduction that has been a perfect fit, or even close to the original. Look for a set of good used ones.

[Scott Hall]

Originally Posted by dlfrisch

As TomEndy (#6 thread) stated - when I de-accelerate the reverberation is really loud. Sometimes, I even push in the clutch to ease up on the noise. I have checked all over the engine compartment, the hood hinges, fender bolts, radiator, the dash mounts and I can’t locate the reverberating riddle, when I spool down, going down a hill or even in traffic. Even though those pans are tight, I may have some hermonic noise making or contributing to make a racket. Maybe that, missing pan tab is what is making the problem.

Any ideas are appreciated ?????

I know this sounds funny but check your tailpipe. Mine used to rattle in the rear hanger and would make a vibrating noise that sounded like it was under the hood.

[Purdy Swoft]

I use engine pans on mine and believe that they help. I've read
that they increase cooling efficiency by 15% and I don't doubt it . Engine pans help keep the engine compartment cleaner and are a real benefit if you run without an air filter like I do . Like others have said, buy from a reputable vender. I bought a pair at a swap meet that didn't fit and had to rework the tabs by cutting and welding to make them fit . All of the old originals that I've bought in collections had broken and missing tabs but after fabricating and welding on replacement tabs they have all held up good and I've never had to go back and rerepair any of them . I'm still running a pair that I bought from J.C. Whitney in the 70s and never a problem . Powder coating is really good but you can buy them unfinished and coat them with POR 15 cheaper and they hold up good . Brush marks flow out beautifully . Gas or other solvents have no effect on POR 15 and they get no ultra violet rays under the hood .

[CarlG]

The pair I bought from Snyder's (made by Brookville) came powder coated. Form-Fit-Function is good and have held up well. They wipe down easy and give a general "tidy" look to the engine compartment. My engine compartment stays cleaner with these installed.

I tapped the frame holes the same as the oil pan bolts, makes it easy to install by myself.