New seal for PS ram.

[rjlester]

Hey Guys,

I have a complete used PS system from a 54 Ford to convert my car to power steering. Bought a new seal for the ram, but I have a question about removing the old seal. I did find this link helpful:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...+steering+seal

I was able to easily take out the snap ring, then the scraper. Now there appears to be a clear nylon ring holding the seal in place. I'm not worried about destroying the seal to remove it, but how critical is this nylon ring? I suspect it will also be messed up when I remove it, and the seal. Is it just a spacer of some kind?

The new seal is 1 inch outside diameter, 5/8 inside.

[KULTULZ]

Read Thru This - https://www.stangerssite.com/CanIPowerCylinder.html

If the inner seal needs to be replaced, the housing has to be cut and re-welded.

ALSO -

https://www.larescorp.com/toolbox/sk...-power-assist/

And an excellent write-up by one of the esteemed members here -

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...wer%20steering

In short, maybe consider having it professionally done and not buying a BOX STORE EXCHANGE incl FORTUNE COOKIE.

[rjlester]

Ok, I see what is happening here. I'm just attempting to change the "end seal" and there are more seals inside that require cutting the cylinder apart?

Maybe I should leave this alone for now. I will rebuild the pump and the control valve, I've rebuilt a control valve before and the pump is pretty simple.

If the ram leaks after it's installed I'll worry about it then. This car is just a driver so as long as it's not dripping and leaving puddles I'll be fine.

The rod looks absolutely pristine so that gives me some confidence.

I take it a typical hydraulic shop can cut it open and change the seals? They have built three sets of hoses for me so far for other cars and did good work.

[KULTULZ]

I take it a typical hydraulic shop can cut it open and change the seals?

If she leaks after install, I would send it off to a specialty shop to know it was done correctly and offers a warranty.

But that is just me being CDO (correct alphabetical order of OCD).

Are you aware of all the different steering bushing kits that should be replaced also while under there?

Also, while everything is hanging, read the section on inspecting/adjusting the steering box.

[rjlester]

I've ordered a bushing kit for the ram, the idler arm seems surprisingly tight so I'll leave it for now and see how it steers when assembled.

The steering box I adjusted a bit a couple years ago, didn't need much adjustment at all. This car steers straight down the road and has no wander at all. I changed the idler arm two years ago thinking it was loose, the new one had the same amount of play and THEN I learned there is a spec on the amount of "slop" it should have lol.

Like you said, I will send it to a specialty shop if it does leak. I have a few options in the area, the closest shop does a lot of classic car hoses and such already. Wouldn't be surprised if they can cut open the ram and change the seals.

[KULTULZ]

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Originally Posted by rjlester

Ok, I see what is happening here. I'm just attempting to change the "end seal" and there are more seals inside that require cutting the cylinder apart?

Maybe I should leave this alone for now. I will rebuild the pump and the control valve, I've rebuilt a control valve before and the pump is pretty simple.

If the ram leaks after it's installed I'll worry about it then. This car is just a driver so as long as it's not dripping and leaving puddles I'll be fine.

Allow me to expound on this ...

There is a large main seal on the other end of the rod assy you see that controls/holds pressure on the rod from the pump. The end seals (where you are working) are there to protect the shaft/seal as it moves in and out of the cylinder assy (road dirt, etc.).

If that end is leaking, install the seal kit you have. If the cylinder refuses to work correctly with good pump pressure, that is when you would be concerned about the inner main seal.

I don't think FORD offered the inner seal as as a service part as the cylinder was replaced at that stage.


I have photo(s) but they will not show large enough to help.

[Merc Cruzer]

What car are you putting the PS system in? I think if you just replace the outer sea on the ram you should be good to go. The idler arm will be ridged, it helps return the steering back to center.

[rjlester]

Steering system is going into my 54 Meteor (Canadian Ford) 4 door. It looks pretty much like what you have in the picture, I'm just painting everything right now.

I did order a pair of bushings for the idler arm. You mentioned its ridged, is there a special way to install/orient the bushings? Or do you tighten everything down with the wheels straight? My 54 Ford manual does not cover power steering.

[Merc Cruzer]

You install and tighten everything down with the wheels straight. When you turn the wheel, the rubber lets the arm move but then pulls it back to straight. You shouldn't be able to move it by hand.

They are different from the manual steering idler arms.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17542171297...Bk9SR-SBuqSIYw

[rjlester]

I do have the power steering idler arm, I put a new manual idler arm in my car two years ago so I did notice the difference with the PS system I removed from the donor car.

So, my gut instinct was right about having the wheels straight. Will it matter if the car is on the hoist, and the wheels are hanging down? I do have a service pit beside the garage, so if I need to tighten everything down on the pit, I'll do it out there. I'm still waiting for a couple of rockauto shipments and then I can do those bushings.

Could I tighten it down as close as I can on the hoist, then drive it outside and on the pit to loosen/retighten the bushings with the wheel perfectly straight?

[Merc Cruzer]

"Could I tighten it down as close as I can on the hoist, then drive it outside and on the pit to loosen/retighten the bushings with the wheel perfectly straight?" The answer is yes.

[rjlester]

Thanks,

Although, that looks like the manual steering install, no? Does the same apply to PS?

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by rjlester

Thanks,

Although, that looks like the manual steering install, no? Does the same apply to PS?

Here are a few pages from the 1953 Ford manual, for Power steering. The system being essentially the same.

[rjlester]

Those pages are excellent, thanks so much. A bit fuzzy, but I am able to read it all. I have a hydraulic press so I can swap those bushings without too much trouble I'm sure. The parts should arrive by the weekend so I will tackle this soon.

I would LOVE to find one of those manuals!

[Merc Cruzer]

If you send me an e-mail, i will scan the manual and send it to you in PDF's. That way you can print it.

[email protected]

[rjlester]

Major thumbs up here lololol

[Merc Cruzer]

Okay, let me know is you have any further questions, during the installation process. Like you, I bought the set up and installed it myself about 10 years ago.

[Merc Cruzer]

Could you post a picture of the plate that mounts on the frame on the passenger side. Not sure but you might need a couple of these.

On my Mercury, it took two bolts and nuts and two nutserts in the frame with bolts. I think the Fords only used two bolts and nuts and one nutsert in the frame for a bolt.

[rjlester]

Good question. I know the side two holes are there (manual steering uses them, they are through bolts/nuts) but I didn't check underneath on my Meteor. I was actually going to look at this myself as I noticed on the donor car there is a washer under there that appeared to be stuck to the frame. Must be a nutsert?

So yes, the Ford/Meteor only use 3 bolts. One nutsert underneath.

[rjlester]

First picture is from the donor car, might be hard to tell but that is a nutsert of some kind from the factory.

20231207_201847.jpg

Second picture shows the hole on my 54 Meteor, looks like a six sided hole, not threaded. I'm thinking I could just weld a nut in there, easy peasy!

20231207_202055.jpg

Third picture is the bolt that goes in there, its a fine thread.

Attachment 531600

Not sure if I'm doing these pictures right. I'm an IT guy by trade and this is the strangest way of attaching pictures lol.

Edit: ok, ya it looks like I can only attach two pics per post. Maybe pic size is still too big.

[Merc Cruzer]

Ford had only one hole on the bottom of the mounting plate and Mercury had 2 for 53'.

Ford is the first picture and Mercury is the second and third pictures.

When I bought the unit for my car, it came with the Ford bracket and I found the Mercury bracket (NOS) at Green sales.

[rjlester]

Yep, the AB-3351-C is the part number on mine. I would post a pic, but it's laborious on my end.

So would that bracket have been black, or painted cast originally?

[Merc Cruzer]

When I bought the NOS Mercury one for my car, it was not painted. I decided to paint it anyway to protect it from the elements.

[KULTULZ]

That takes a HEXNUT rather than a RIVNUT to prevent turning -

https://www.rivetnutusa.com/hexnut-hex-rivet-nut/

FORD STD PN - 375474-S8

[rjlester]

Perfect, I'm about an hour away from going to the fasteners place! I'll let you know what I find.

[Merc Cruzer]

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Thanks for the clarification as to the terminology. It has been awhile since I did the installation. As you can see from my pictures that is excitably what I used.

I still had my back up set with the instructions. I went back to see just what I bought and it appears I got them from NPD. The were for 55-57 TBIRD P/S and installation kit - 65-70 Mustang P/S CYLINDER BRA


NPD: https://www.npdlink.com/search/produ...t=200001&year=

[KULTULZ]

Thanks for the clarification as to the terminology.

Ain't no problem. THANX for giving their source ...

[KULTULZ]

"Could I tighten it down as close as I can on the hoist, then drive it outside and on the pit to loosen/retighten the bushings with the wheel perfectly straight?"

The answer is yes.

Well ...

The bushing sleeves will have (should have) serrations top and bottom to hold the bushing in place. If you do not tighten to spec and then turn the wheel, the rubber insert may cling to the arm and not be centered (self centering feature) once correct torque is applied.

Hope that makes sense and yes Mercman I am retaining water.

[rjlester]

Wasn't able to pick any up at the fasteners place, they don't carry the hex nuts. Only round. They recommended two other local places but they are not open again until Monday so I'll pop in at that time and see what I can find.

Worst case scenario I order them online.

Good tip on the bushings having those serrated edges, I'll have to be careful when I install everything. Might have to really loosen them before I tighten them up for good.

[KULTULZ]

- FINAL TOUCH -

PS CYL BOOT KIT - C1AZ 3C651-A (NOS)

[rjlester]

Will that fit the 54 ram? It looks like the one I put on my 68 Cyclone a few years back.

Regarding the Hex nutsert, I'm hearing from more than one source that they are difficult to install. Either using the tool, or using a bolt/nut/washer it just strips the threads in these nutserts made nowadays.

Can anyone here confirm this?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by rjlester

Will that fit the 54 ram? It looks like the one I put on my 68 Cyclone a few years back.

Yes, it is for a 1953-1961 FORD. The ILL's don't show one and I came across this PN while looking for something else. The boot protects the end seals from road dirt. If you can't find NOS, there are available elsewhere if you use the FORD PN on a SEARCH.

Regarding the Hex nutsert, I'm hearing from more than one source that they are difficult to install. Either using the tool, or using a bolt/nut/washer it just strips the threads in these nutserts made nowadays.

Can anyone here confirm this?

You need to buy QUALITY PARTS. I would trust NPD.

The tool is for a tech that does a lot of this type of repair.

MERC CRUISER should be able to give you advice there.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by rjlester

Will that fit the 54 ram? It looks like the one I put on my 68 Cyclone a few years back.

Regarding the Hex nutsert, I'm hearing from more than one source that they are difficult to install. Either using the tool, or using a bolt/nut/washer it just strips the threads in these nutserts made nowadays.

Can anyone here confirm this?

I too read all the horror stories before I installed them. I did order two sets just in case, since it was the first (and as it turns out the last) time I ever installed them. But I didn't have any issues. I ordered mine from NPD (link in prior post), maybe the ones they have, are a little higher quality (or at least they were).

[Merc Cruzer]

PS CYL BOOT KIT - C1AZ 3C651-A (NOS)

When I decode the number, is seems to be for a 1961 Mustang. Maybe I am reading it wrong.

C = 60's
1 = year
A = Ford full size
Z = Mustang
A - Chassis

My wife has a 1970 Cougar XR-7 with P/S and it came with a boot. I tried to put the boot on mine, but the end of cylinder is way too big for the boot collar. You may have better luck.

[rjlester]

Update: I picked up a complete riveter kit for doing these nutserts or whatever the official name of them is haha. Here is what I got, the price was right too:

https://www.princessauto.com/en/17-i...t/PA0009203407

It comes with the rivet tool, and both metric and sae ROUND rivet nuts. Hopefully I can pick up some 3/8 -16 Hex rivet nuts in the next few days. Might even try one in the store with this tool and see if it works, or if there is an issue....

Despite the kit being chineseum, it's heavy and seemingly good quality.

As for the boot, I'm going to leave it exposed for now. I want to drive it a bit and see if that ram leaks at all. A boot will just hide that for a while until it starts filling the boot. Been there, done that with my Cyclone, ram used to leak but I replaced it years ago when they were cheap to buy.

[rjlester]

Inventoried all my parts, and of all things I'm missing, is the roll pin for the control valve.

Anybody know what size that sucker was? I can buy a kit fairly cheap.

[Merc Cruzer]

What part number is it?

[rjlester]

352146-s

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by rjlester

352146-s

352146-S - PIN - Rod To HYD CTL VLV - 1/8" X 7/8"

[KULTULZ]

I have a complete used PS system from a 54 Ford to convert my car to power steering.

What year and model car are we working on, six or eight?

Your ILL shows 1953 FORD

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

PS CYL BOOT KIT - C1AZ 3C651-A (NOS)

When I decode the number, is seems to be for a 1961 Mustang. Maybe I am reading it wrong.

C = 60's
1 = year
A = Ford full size
Z = Mustang
A - Chassis

My wife has a 1970 Cougar XR-7 with P/S and it came with a boot. I tried to put the boot on mine, but the end of cylinder is way too big for the boot collar. You may have better luck.

Go to the bottom of the sheet you posted. You are working with a SERVICE PN. The upper sheet text is describing an ENGINEERING PN.

First Four Characters (In This Instance) Is The PN PREFIX

C = 60 - DECADE SIXTIES
1 = YEAR of DECADE
A = FORD (In This Instance)
Z = ID's As A FORD SERVICE PN (Y = LINC/MERC)

3C651 = BASIC PN of Part Being Described

A = PN SUFFIX - Narrows Down Exact Part Application

The PN PREFIX Identifies The Year And Model The PN Was Released For Service. It May Cover More Years/Applications

The BOOT KIT for a 1970 COUGAR is C6OZ 3C651-A.

[rjlester]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

What year and model car are we working on, six or eight?

Your ILL shows 1953 FORD

My car is a 1954 Meteor, a Canadian version of the US 1954 Ford, but with a few changes. IE, the engine is a 255 flathead, dash is from a 1954 Mercury, the front suspension is still the kingpins (no ball joints).

So, whenever I look up parts online, I look up 53 Ford for the most part and have had success with that.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by rjlester

My car is a 1954 Meteor, a Canadian version of the US 1954 Ford, but with a few changes. IE, the engine is a 255 flathead, dash is from a 1954 Mercury, the front suspension is still the kingpins (no ball joints).

So, whenever I look up parts online, I look up 53 Ford for the most part and have had success with that.

Sorry about that. ADVANCING CRS causes me to forget details ...

Are you planning to remove the 53 spindles (pins) and replace entirely with the 54 FORD suspension?

Have you ever looked or found a CANADIAN FORD CHASSIS or MPC CATALOG?

[rjlester]

No problem.

I forgot to mention, that the 54 Canadian Fords also did not get ball joints, so I'm not replacing the suspension, only the steering linkages. It's a direct swap of steering components.

I do not have a Canadian 54 Meteor/Ford chassis and parts manual. Only been in the early 50s Fords since the spring of 2021 when I picked up this 54 Meteor. Didn't really think I needed one until I found a parts manual for my 57 Monarch last spring and realized how invaluable that manual is.

[KULTULZ]

... Realized how invaluable that manual is ...

amen brother ...

[rjlester]

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In a few days I will be installing this power steering setup. Question is, can the crank pulley be removed from my car without a puller as I have the rad in place? The parts car had the rad out so I had lots of room for a puller. Keep in mind these are flathead engines in the Canadian 1954 models.

Any tricks to removing the crank pulley with the rad in the way? It's been on there either since new (1954) or possibly when serviced before it was parked in 1966 as it does not leak oil from the front seal.

If I have to bite the bullet and pull the rad, I will do that but looking for any tips on doing it the "easy way" lol.

[KULTULZ]

Question is, can the crank pulley be removed from my car without a puller as I have the rad in place?

What does the WSM say?

The tool should be able to be used with the radiator in. I have no experience in flatheads so I don't know.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by rjlester

In a few days I will be installing this power steering setup. Question is, can the crank pulley be removed from my car without a puller as I have the rad in place? The parts car had the rad out so I had lots of room for a puller. Keep in mind these are flathead engines in the Canadian 1954 models.

Any tricks to removing the crank pulley with the rad in the way? It's been on there either since new (1954) or possibly when serviced before it was parked in 1966 as it does not leak oil from the front seal.

If I have to bite the bullet and pull the rad, I will do that but looking for any tips on doing it the "easy way" lol.

Remember the question was: Question is, can the crank pulley be removed from my car without a puller as I have the rad in place?

The answer is probably yes, but I used a puller. The key was using a shorter bolt on the piuller. When I did mine, I didn't want to remove the radiator, so I took the time to see if I could actually remove the old pulley with the radiator in place.

I used an old Craftsman 5 1/2" puller. I replace the center bolt with a shorter bolt, to give me space between the crankshaft and the radiator. I also had to remove the bottom splash pan to give me access underneath the car. I additionally used pieces of 2X4 behind the pulley than gave me additional leverage. My pulley was on the car since the day it was built. But then I may have just gotten luck too.

Would I recommend it, NO, just take the time to pull the radiator, the additional access will be well worth the time and effort.

[rjlester]

Yes, you are correct, probably simpler and much less painful to pull the rad. Good time to clean out the bottom of the rad anyway.

Thanks for your recommendation on this.

[Merc Cruzer]

Good choice. Good opportunity to change the hoses, while you are there. Pictures if you have time.

[KULTULZ]

Uh, that is not the correct way to pull a harmonic balancer. Too much chance of damage. I am afraid to ask how you got it back on.

I thought he said with a puller with the radiator in the chassis. If the correct style puller is used there is no need to pull a radiator. It would kill flat-rate time unless the cooling system was due to be serviced also.

In your WSM, it should show the tool in use and a TOOL NO. Can you post a photo of that?

A correct style puller should be able to be borrowed from a box store.

[Merc Cruzer]

KULTULZ,

You are correct, it is and was the incorrect way to pull the 2 belt pulley. it increased the risk of breaking the pulley. I could not get my hands on the "Tool - 6313-J", as show in the Mercury repair manual, or find one to buy. If someone has a picture of the tool, I would love to see it.

As to how I put the 3 belt pulley on the crankshaft. I lined the up the key on the crankshaft with the slot in the pulley, and put it on by hand as far as it would go. I then used a long socket and dead blow hammer to tap it on the rest of the way. I then installed the nut and torqued it to spec.

Prior post:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...t=88038&page=2

[KULTULZ]

... hmmph ...

I was expecting a food fight and here I sit in my cover and a plastic sheet ...

I appreciate that info. Like I say, I never worked on one. My brother had a 53 FORD years ago but the first thing I wondered was how to sit a 390 in it.

I have some old FORD TOOL CATALOGS. Let me descend into 'COBWEB CORNER' and see what I can find. Does the WSM show a SPECIAL TOOL to press it back on? Beating one on can disturb the thrust bearing clearances if it uses one.

Like I say, I must have gotten a late start, no interest in much before 1957.

[Merc Cruzer]

Actually there is no mention of any special tool for installing the crankshaft pulley, only the spacer. Tool # 6306-C. There is no picture.

The key is to first clean the shaft thoroughly, then put a light coat of grease on the shaft, then "tap it on" gently. Then torque the bolt to 45-55 ft lb.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by rjlester

Yes, you are correct, probably simpler and much less painful to pull the rad. Good time to clean out the bottom of the rad anyway.

Thanks for your recommendation on this.

Just a question question. Did your PS system come with the 3 correct bolts, to mount the pump bracket to the head?

I also had to change out the steering arm from the "straight" to the "bent"

[rjlester]

Ok, I have some updates to give you guys.

Triple pulley has been installed. It's not actually a harmonic balancer on the flathead, just a pulley so you can (gently) use a puller. That being said, I first tried prying it off the snout with two screwdrivers/prybars (gently)... you guys know the drill. Just not enough room in there. I pulled the radiator. Put a three jaw puller on it, and USING MY HAND to turn the puller bolt, it came loose and then I pulled the pulley off by hand. I cannot believe how nicely this pulley came off, and I'm very thankful. The new pulley slipped on easily and seated perfectly without hammering. I believe this is partly because when the car was parked in 1966 by the original owners, it was not stored outside. I'm very fortunate to have this car.

Secondly, yes I do have to swap the pitman arm, and I have it from the donor car. Have not installed it yet on my Meteor. While the rad was out, I put water in it and shook out some gunk several times until it was clear. (radiator and hoses are new as of two years ago)

Regarding the bolts for the mounting bracket to the head ONE of the head bolts was longer (from the donor car), the other wasn't. I bought another longer bolt. This is crucial otherwise you will only get 3 or 4 threads if you use the original bolts to the head. The water pump bolt was also longer, with a spacer to go with it. You have a good memory Merc Cruzer! I know its been a while since you did your PS upgrade.

Car is buttoned up and I drove it for 15 minutes last night to ensure the cooling system was burped etc. Part of me thought: Why am I bothering with power steering, this car goes straight down the road, has a tight front end already? I shouldn't mess with it. Then I remembered all the road trips I took since I bought it, and it sure would have made for more comfortable trips and parking lot maneuvering.

My only problem right now is I'm waiting for bushings and a PS filter to show up from Rockauto. It's been more than two weeks and they have not shown up. We have a local courier company in my area that doesn't have a clue about rural addresses and they have messed up our deliveries on several occasions. These drivers are not from around here if you know what I mean. Yesterday I finally put in a request to Rockauto to find my packages. Normally I get their shipments in about 4 days, 6 tops. Had one of those couriers drive in my yard on Saturday. He pulled up in front of the house looked confused and drove out of my yard. He went into the neighbors place (nobody was home) and then left the neighborhood. I bet he had my shipment but had no idea what he was doing.

Another thing I figured out is I DO have a parts manual for a 54 Ford/Meteor, it's the Monarch I don't have one for. The mind is getting weak as I age lol. Found it late last night and did a facepalm. I'll take a good look at it tonight.

Kultulz, some day I would love to drop a 390 into a car like this! That would be a blast.

[Merc Cruzer]

rjlester,

Thanks for the update. Looks like you have the installation under control. I am attaching picture of the list of alternatives for the filter. I have an O'Reilly's close by, and if they don't have something, they can get it with in a day.

I feel for you waiting for an ordered part. I am waiting for original door edge guards, coming from Vancouver, WA. I have been on the hunt for at least 4 years, and finally found them. 4 door cars not a problem, 2 door cars, defiantly a problem.

Looking forward to hearing what you think on your first test test drive. 90% of the steering I do with the "Nardy knob".

I find the system probably a bit of overkill, not much feel of the road. You can literley steer/park it, with one or two finges.

[rjlester]

Ya I could have bought the filter locally, but Rockauto was WAY cheaper even with shipping, and Rockauto was the only place with the bushings, also at a great price.

Where did you get that knob? Around here we call them speed wheels or suicide wheels lol. It's great that it's a Mercury specific knob, must be super rare. It looks great.

My 68 Cyclone has similar power steering, and as you describe, I find it too touchy. However, my 54 Skyliner Meteor has power steering, and I find it a bit better for roadfeel than the 68. Hopefully this car ends up the same, I really like it on the other 54. That car needs restoration, it's in storage until we find a new place to live that can accommodate my new hobby!! I love 50's Fords and will probably spend the rest of my life working on them. I enjoy the work as much as driving them.

[rjlester]

Did some digging and the packages that were "missing" were in our mailbox which my wife had not checked in over a week. She normally gets the mail several times per week and has not done that recently.

So, apparently all three of my "missing" shipments are now on my workbench in the garage!!

They were transferred over to Canada Post instead of Intelcom all along. Stupid DHL tracking does not reflect this, I figured it out on my own.

Can I actually blame the wife this time? Lolol, she did apologize haha. I'm going to hold this against her forever now and it will be the family joke for the next few weeks.

[Merc Cruzer]

As to the knob, found it on Ebay. As it tuned out, the top comes off and you could print any picture and put in the knob.

I guess the question now that you have power steering, will there be another video with your daughter driving the car? It seems only fair, the she gets a shot with new and improved steering! She did a great job the first time! I am still trying to get my daughter to drive mine and it is a Merc-O-Matic, and she know how to drive a stick.

By chance did the donor car have power brakes?

How about a picture of your 54', love to see the grill and dash.

[rjlester]

Well, that kid moved out on her own so I don't see much of her anymore. However, you've given me an idea. I think I should put BOTH my daughters in that car, and they have to take turns driving. Question is, should I stay out of the car and just let the camera roll on them fighting/arguing/laughing/grinding gears? lolol

Good to know you've watched the videos. I am documenting some of the PS conversion on film so at some point I'll post that. It might be a while, I have over 2 years of footage of this car to edit now and just no time to edit yet. Maybe after Christmas sometime I can start.

[Merc Cruzer]

Both daughters in the car, with you in the back seat. The camera set wide enough to get all of you in the shot. There just might be a "series" in it for you!

[rjlester]

I think I'll call it: Riding in cars with girls haha.

[KULTULZ]

You know, this has been a very interesting topic and thread. I enjoy the hell out of discussions like this. I actually learned something (how long I will retain it is another matter).

While 'CAROUSING WITH MY BROWSER' on 'GIGGLE' it seems the pulley press-fit is not as tight as later balancers. It's coming off easily is a matter of chance, lack of corrosion and any previous damage (BFH and HOT WRENCH).

The SPECIAL TOOL makes it easier for the TECH to work in the confines without removing the radiator.

I made a quick reconnoiter of my library and did not find the said tool catalog. I know I have one for that period. A further intense SEARCH AND DESTROY MISSION is scheduled (stand-by).

During any of this was the removal of the pulley spacer necessary? Did the front seal look OK?

Again, I appreciate what you guys have taught me ...

[KULTULZ]

Just to add fuel to the fire, there is a similar discussion on 'ANOTHER FORUM'
regarding a 54 LINC.

Is this car pretty or what?

[Merc Cruzer]

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There was no need to remove the spacer. It was just a simple pulley replacement. As to the front seal, no leaks, so mine was fine.

You are the third person (to include me) that was able to remove the pulley with out issue. So maybe later flathead pulleys were not an issue, by design. If you are worried about it, a bit of loctite could be used on the bolt threads.

Nothing like have a donor car, with it installed, rather than relying on someone to provide all the parts from a car.

Any issuestheh the installation of the crush hex nut?

[rjlester]

Glad to hear you've enjoyed this thread, I was worried it strayed too much. Been on other forums since before the internet even had pictures and have seen a lot of people treat others poorly over the slightest thing.

I didn't take out any spacers, in fact I purposely ignored the seal, other than it doesn't look wet in that area. Out of sight, out of mind as they say...

Looking forward to the results of the Search and Destroy mission haha.

Hands down, this is the best forum I've been on in 25+ years, and I've only been here maybe 2 years.

I assume WSM is something about a service manual? I finally opened mine last night to find a torque value for the crank pulley bolt, and I couldn't find it anywhere in that book. Had to Google it, or Giggle it as you say ;-)

Haven't installed the hex nut yet.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Just to add fuel to the fire, there is a similar discussion on 'ANOTHER FORUM'
regarding a 54 LINC.

Is this car pretty or what?

Yup, beautiful car. The PS on the Lincoln was totally different, they powered the steering box rather than using a slave cylinder.

[Merc Cruzer]

"I assume WSM is something about a service manual? I finally opened mine last night to find a torque value for the crank pulley bolt, and I couldn't find it anywhere in that book. Had to Google it, or Giggle it as you say ;-)"

Check entry #54 (second photo - 6th down on the list) of this post.

[rjlester]

Thanks, don't know how I missed that.

The parts car I got did not have power brakes. My Skyliner has it, but it's in a box in the trunk as the previous owner took it off to paint the inside fender. It's NOT a treadle vac, thankfully. Might install it next summer to see how well it works if I get bored.

Interesting PS setup the Lincoln has, with the piston system built into the steering box.

[Merc Cruzer]

Not a fan of the tredle vac. Mine will stop on a dime and give you 8 cents change. If anything it might be considered a bit too touchy. You can now stop the car with two toes, barefoot.

To say the least, when I got the car it hadn't been serviced, maybe ever! If anything it might be considered a bit too touchy now.

If you get one, make sure you get the vacuum tank that mounts on the frame rail, on the drivers side, next to the door.

An interesting video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKbnYmPj9a8

Installation on Ford and Mercury is very different, but basically the same unit.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by rjlester

Glad to hear you've enjoyed this thread, I was worried it strayed too much. Been on other forums since before the internet even had pictures and have seen a lot of people treat others poorly over the slightest thing.

No, I learn a lot from threads such as yours, stuff missed when young. You post all you want. I am usually the one here that causes the stirs ...

I assume WSM is something about a service manual? I finally opened mine last night to find a torque value for the crank pulley bolt, and I couldn't find it anywhere in that book. Had to Google it, or Giggle it as you say ;-)

Haven't installed the hex nut yet.

SORRY ABOUT THAT - I just a$$-u-me on some things ...

WSM - WORKSHOP MANUAL
MPC- MASTER PARTS CATALOG

HENRY came down the mountain with either under each arm you know ...

Look at POST #54 where MERC shows a page of his WSM - TORQUE SPECS.

It is given there - C/S PULLEY TO C/S

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

The PS on the Lincoln was totally different, they powered the steering box rather than using a slave cylinder.

SEE! There we go again. I did not know the LINC had an integral box.

Spent too much time in the MUSCLE CAR era ...

[rjlester]

I'm almost done with the install. Spent about 4 hours tonight under the car, removing the steering linkage, installing the "new" linkage. Filmed most of it, that took some time to setup.

Just have to install the pump and add fluid. Will do that tomorrow as it's pretty late here tonight and I'm tired.

The new hoses I had made were a bit of a bear to get on. The two short ones. One of them was just too long, but I was able to make a new shorter end to make it fit.

REMINDER TO MYSELF TOMORROW to remove that hose I made and CLEAN IT OUT. Forgot to do that and just remembered, there was some kind of material inside the pipe I added from my fuel line/brake line extras collection (new ones).

Also a REMINDER TO GREASE the control valve fitting, just remembered I missed that one.

Everything else went smooth. I'm impressed with the Rivet Nut tool. Looking forward to tomorrow! I sure hope those hoses don't leak.

[Merc Cruzer]

Since they are new hoses, chances are they will be good.You best chance for a leak will be the control valve, even if it has just recently been rebuilt. I initially rebuilt mine with all NOS seals and to my chagrin, they were all too old and dried out. I did a prior post using a newer design seals:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...RhwPUGJ1GqEwv0

As to fluid, I use. I prefer one with some form of "stop leak" in it, to soften the seal throughout the system. It may take a bit of time to have it seal up again if it has been sitting for a while, not to mention it is colder now and the seals will shirk and become harder to to the lower temperature.

Looking forward to your additional updates.

[rjlester]

I remember now your post about those seals and as it turns out, one of the new seals I bought was loaded, the other one was not. Next time I will specify loaded seals for both.

As for the hoses being clean, when I changed the end on the shortest hose, there was actually a small piece of debris/metal in there that may have come loose if I didn't find it. The new pipe I put on the end had some kind of flaking layer of some kind that was coming off inside. Compressed air wouldn't loosen it and then I forgot to finish cleaning it when I installed it. Maybe it was some kind of corrosion preventative? I'll have a look at it anyway.

[Merc Cruzer]

If I had to guess, I would say debris, from old fluid inside the ram/piston.

I take it that you order from Rockauto was delivered.

Just a reminder, leave the front end off the ground and turn the steering side to side, very gently, to clear the air out of the system. Avoid going to full lock to lock, as it will build up too much pressure initially.

[rjlester]

Had some hose leaks, tightened connections and fixed those no problem.

But the control valve leaks like CRAZY turning left when you get almost to the end. Turning right, no leaks at all. It emptied the reservoir on a 1 mile drive.

Looks like I'm pulling that control valve out. I guess one of the new seals failed?

[KULTULZ]

... when I changed the end on the shortest hose, there was actually a small piece of debris/metal in there that may have come loose if I didn't find it.

Just a thought ...

When making PS repairs, you might want to consider performing a manual flush on the system (remove filter and replace with NEW FILTER after flush procedure) before closing it up to hopefully purge any residue/trash and any old fluid out, especially if the filter was not maintained.

(Also turn steering wheel slowly while flushing to purge cylinder - using starter motor to turn engine with IGN disabled). You add fresh fluid while cranking engine with output hose disconnected and directed at a catch pan.

The new fluid will have fresh detergents/dispersants in it and will break up any old deposits so keep an eye on the filter condition until it (fluid quality) stabilizes.

[rjlester]

You might be onto something.

The pump I totally disassembled/cleaned/resealed. The control valve was totally disassembled/cleaned/resealed. The hoses were brand new, but I did find a metal chunk in the one I had to fix, it looked like a shaving from when they cut the pipe. So part of me says there may have been debris from those hoses. The stuff that appeared to be flaking off the inside of the pipe that I installed turned out to be a cobweb. No spider in sight. Pretty harmless and I removed it all anyway.

That leaves the ram cylinder. I did not flush it or take it apart as it requires cutting/welding to change all the seals. Maybe something in there came loose and is wreaking havoc.

That being said, I will be taking the control valve off in the next day or two and investigate the issue. First I want to clean up the garage, put all the tools away and clean off the workbench so I have a clean place to work on the valve.

On the test drive, the PS worked very well, did not seem to self center but I can get used to that. Needs an alignment as well, but I figured that would be the case. I might just get a couple new tie rod ends before I align it just to be safe.

[Merc Cruzer]

As to the self centering, just loosen the nuts on the bushings, straighten the wheels and re-torque the nuts.

Jack up the front end, so the tires are off the ground, then try the self centering, at least one full turn of the steering wheel. If it doesn't, the bushings are torn.

Are these the new bushings?

How easy was the steering?

[rjlester]

Bushings are brand new. I had the wheels straight when I tightened them. In the past I've had vehicles that after an alignment they self centered much better.

The steering felt about the same as my Skyliner, not too touchy, had good feel I thought.

[Merc Cruzer]

Between this car and your donor car, you had to remove two crankshaft pulleys. Is it correct to say you had minimal issues with either?

When you let off the steering wheel does it "center" either left or right of center? I realize you haven't had time to drive the car extensively, but when you do, if you are going straight and let of the steering wheel, does the car remain straight?

By comparing the steering to your Skyliner, tells me the steering is working as it should. You are successful in your transplant. Have you noticed any leaking so far, or is it too early to tell?
I have noticed that when you give it a good run, and warm up the system, then let it set for a few days with a drip pan under the control valve, it will tell you if its leaking. I have never had an issue with the ram leaking. The outer seal on the ram, is nothing more than a scraper to remove the dirt from the piston shaft. A boot would be nice but I have yet find one that fits, since the end the ram is not tapered.

[rjlester]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

Between this car and your donor car, you had to remove two crankshaft pulleys. Is it correct to say you had minimal issues with either?

--- Yep, both came off easily, although the parts car needed a wrench on the puller to get it off.

When you let off the steering wheel does it "center" either left or right of center? I realize you haven't had time to drive the car extensively, but when you do, if you are going straight and let of the steering wheel, does the car remain straight?

---The wheel was pretty much staying where it was when you let go. No pull in either direction, but the steering wheel is off center now which I expected. It drives straight when you let go of the wheel.

By comparing the steering to your Skyliner, tells me the steering is working as it should. You are successful in your transplant. Have you noticed any leaking so far, or is it too early to tell?
I have noticed that when you give it a good run, and warm up the system, then let it set for a few days with a drip pan under the control valve, it will tell you if its leaking. I have never had an issue with the ram leaking. The outer seal on the ram, is nothing more than a scraper to remove the dirt from the piston shaft. A boot would be nice but I have yet find one that fits, since the end the ram is not tapered.

---Control valve is leaking badly, and after my last post we watched under the hood and it leaks when turning even slightly left. It drained the pump dry in about 1 mile. I suspect the seal has failed for some reason. Hopefully today I get some time to take it apart and have a look.

[KULTULZ]

Let me hang my a$$ out in the wind once again ...

Why you tighten the idler arm bushings while in the straight head position is to ensure the least amount of bushing bind when turning. Same as with control arm bushings, if tightened while hanging, when lowered they will be in a bind and will wear/fail more quickly.

The steering has been completely dis-assembled and redone. It needs an alignment rack when the dust settles.

The only thing that is going to ensure straight ahead steering, is correct camber, toe and any power assist adjustments necessary.

[rjlester]

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Bingo.

My buddy has an auto shop and I've used the alignment rack there a few times so I know exactly what you mean. I worked in that shop for a couple months about 2 years ago so I know how an accurate alignment will definitely make it better.

[Merc Cruzer]

I hate to have to tell you this, but you are totally in the "normal" progression of the installation and diagnostics process. First of all you are dealing with PS system that was designed and first used 70 years ago. (To see just how far they came in a short period of time, look at the return hose to the pump. It is the same size as the pressure hose. Just a few years later, that hose was now the size of the windshield washer hose). More likely it has never been serviced, other than to add additional fluid.

First question, it the ram leaking? If not you are that much further ahead, and the PS Gods like you!

Hence the reason I had to search out the "newer design" of control valve seals, because the original ones, no mater if they are being remade or not, did not serve to help solve the issue. Believe me, I still have sets of the original design seals, sitting a a drawer.

I was lucky enough to be speaking with a local member, that owns a car wash facility. That system uses high pressure seals, (your PS system is running between 700-900 PSI) that are replaced on a regular basis. I took the original seals into them and explained the issue I was having, and they provided me with the seals I am currently using. I won't guarantee the it will seal it up totally and forever, but it will seal it up to allow you to use it. In 8 years, I have only added additional fluid once and that was less than an oz of fluid.

The upside, is the you don't have to remove the system from the car, the control valve can be serviced while it is still installed.

This prior post was generated because I have been just where you are now. Don't get discouraged, as the issue is correctable. Read over this post and let me know if you have any questions:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...RhwPUGJ1GqEwv0

Since I am retired feel free:

Roy Lange
Conifer, CO
(303) 838-2028 (land line)
[email protected]

[rjlester]

Roy I really appreciate your post, and don't worry, I'm not discouraged! I truly enjoy working on older cars and to me it's just a case of: Dang. Ok, I guess I get to work on it some more! I can also learn how to make it better and hopefully pass the info on to others.

I was texting a friend of mine last night, he has restored probably 25 or so 50's Fords. By restored, I mean frame off type of work on almost every one. He said he has had a few control valves screw up on him. I said it's good to know that even the legends screw up once in a while. He said his Dad told him that the only guy that doesn't do anything wrong is the guy that doesn't do anything. His Dad was a wise man!

I have read through your post on sealing a PS system, it is invaluable information. I do like the fact I can take the control valve off quite easily and leave the rest of it there. I'm blessed with a hoist in my garage.

One of these nights, I just might give you a call, would be good to chat cars and stuff.

Almost forgot, the ram did not appear to leak at all, but I'll have a closer look when I'm under the car again in a short bit.

[rjlester]

It's working great now!

Not sure if I didn't get the loaded seal in there properly to begin with, or if it popped out during reassembly. I think it popped out. Anyway, I spent some time with two small screwdrivers pushing that seal into place all the way around. I was a bit more "violent" with it this time. First time I was afraid to ruin that seal as they seem so fragile. One screwdriver to keep the lip downwards and the other screwdriver to push on the back of the seal to get it into place. Slowly worked my way around the seal. My hands and everything were coated with PS fluid so nothing was dry.

Bolted it all back together, added fluid and fired it up. No leaks, no dripping on the floor. Self centering is much better, there was likely no assist at all turning left before.

Took the family to town for dinner in the car. No issues. I can hear the pump whine a bit with the radio off and engine idling, but not too bad. Road feel is good, still feels like a manual on the highway, just easier to turn and much easier on my left arm in a crosswind.

Once home, I looked underneath and the ram had a drip hanging there, so did the control valve but that's minor. The drip on the control valve may be coming from the grease that pushed out the fluid when I regreased the ball stud. I have a half bottle of that PS stop leak I'll put in after I take some fluid out. Even if it drips a bit, this isn't a show car, it's a driver. I wouldn't be surprised if the drips go away with time.

I think the outer tie rod ends should be replaced. I put a pry bar under the tie rod, the end of the pry bar on top of the a-arm, and pushed up on the handle. There was some noticeable movement on both tie rod ends, probably a couple mm. WHen you try and move them by hand they seem ok, but not with a pry bar.

Overall it performs real nice. A bit relieved and the wife can park in the garage now haha.

I admit, even though I wasn't all that discouraged when it was leaking, part of me was thinking I shouldn't have bothered. That's totally gone now and I'm glad I took on this project!

Thanks so much you guys!

[Merc Cruzer]

Good to hear the transplant was successful and you are enjoying the car.

You mentioned a working radio. Here is another simple project that will give you an expanded listening ability with the stock radio.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182556

[rjlester]

Thanks for the link, I did have my radio converted or should I say, upgraded to FM. The radio didn't work, had it repaired and he installed an FM module. Then I put a bluetooth to FM converter in the ashtray and I can listen to music from my phone, and take phone calls to boot!

Using your link, I might upgrade my Skyliner when the time comes. Very useful pics and writeup you have in there. Much cheaper than having a pro do it.

Back to the power steering, the ram leaves about a 3 inch puddle overnight. Methinks that will not get any better.

I see rockauto has a new ram for 240 Canadian or so. I can't see the local guys rebuilding mine for that kind of money. Something to think about.

I'm just super happy with how well it's working.

[Merc Cruzer]

Make sure tit has the small tube on the top, some don't. If it was warmer and you could use it more the ram might seal back up is use. Cold is not your friend at the moment.

I will have to see what radio was in the Sklyliner.

[rjlester]

Mine doesn't have the tube, neither does the Skyliner.

The radio in the Meteor and Meteor Skyliner is the same as 53/54 Mercury.

[Merc Cruzer]

Interesting that yours doesn't have the tube. It was my understanding that was the way the fluid went from one side to the other, when the piston went from left to right and visa versa.

My book, only shows the one with the tube. I am wondering since yours is a 54' was there a change.

I checked my book for 54'-55' and it shows the same picture. Now I am wondering if that was a change for Canadian production. I need to get my hands on a Canadian chassis parts catalogue.

[rjlester]

The Meteor parts catalog shows the same part numbers as yours for both 53 and 54. When I talked to a friend of mine about this PS setup I have, he said that the ram must have been replaced with a newer one as it should have had the breather tube.

Kinda wish I had a parts catalog for my 57 Monarch...

[rjlester]

Just remembered my oil reservoir cover gasket leaks. Without spending 100 bucks on a kit I don't need, know any place I can get one or something that will work? The Ford part number is: 33535 A

[Merc Cruzer]

I am wondering if you are building up too much pressure in the ram, when you turn the wheel, without that tube.

You know, with all the pictures I have of the PS system for my car (and there are a few) I don't have one of the pump top gasket. Looks to be a cork gasket, so it would swell and seal as it became saturated with fluid. Just replace it with a flat rubber "O" ring from a hardware/plumbing store, or buy a sheet of cork (from a hobby/craft store) and cut one out. That way you are only looking at a couple of bucks. If you can get the cork gasket out in one piece, soak it in hot water overnight, then just flip it over for a new sealing surface, for a temporary fix.

I know the lid has to be screwed down tight but it is a fine line before the top begins to cave in.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by rjlester

Just remembered my oil reservoir cover gasket leaks. Without spending 100 bucks on a kit I don't need, know any place I can get one or something that will work? The Ford part number is: 33535 A

The donor car is a 1954 FORD, correct?

What is your PS PUMP bowl diameter?

From what catalog did you get BASIC PN 33535?

[rjlester]

I have this book:

https://www.autopaper.com/1949-1954-...-book-orig.php

Yes, the donor car is a 54 Ford.

Don't know the bowl diameter, will have to measure when I get home.

[KULTULZ]

- 1949-54 Ford Meteor Dealer Chassis Parts Catalog - SEP 1954

Nice reference to have ...

[rjlester]

No doubt, it's amazing what you can learn browsing those pages. I found a grease fitting I didn't know existed last night. For the shifter linkage on the column! I was wondering why the 54 Ford parts car had one, and the Meteor didn't. It was covered in 60 year old grease.

Shifts MUCH smoother now.

[Merc Cruzer]

Interesting, the list of what this fits:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20428902153...Bk9SR9qAw_mQYw

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18613332661...Cclp%3A4429486

No luck finding the ram with the tube on top.

[rjlester]

The first listing looks like they took their list straight from Rockauto.

I measured the top of my pump and it was 5.5 inches.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by rjlester

I measured the top of my pump and it was 5.5 inches.

The MPC calls for C0AA 3A642-A (5 29/64" OD) (Late 1954/ ).

- HALT! - !!! HOLD THE PRESSES !!!

C0AA 3A642-A is INCORRECT. The actual PN is C0AA 3A642-B

GIGGLE it on your INNER-SCREEN and you will find NOS and aftermarket.

EDIT -

AFTERMARKET SOURCE - https://www.npdlink.com/product/gask...r-cover/140009

... getting hard to find good help ... ... sheesh ...

[KULTULZ]

The FORD CYLINDER (BENDIX) (BENDIX and MONROE sold this design) should have an ID STAMPING somewhere on the cylinder or ends. When you get it off, look for it.

I am thinking ... ... that that external by-pass is needed but if aftermarket may have the relief valve within the assembly.

If you decide to go aftermarket, hold onto the old cylinder until it can be identified.

[Merc Cruzer]

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Originally Posted by rjlester

The first listing looks like they took their list straight from Rockauto.

I measured the top of my pump and it was 5.5 inches.

This just got more interesting. I measured the top of my pump and it is 6 1/2". Mine is the long neck pump. By chance, is yours the shorter neck pumps, as in the last 2 pictures?

[rjlester]

Hey Kultulz, good job finding that part number! I was thinking of digging it up in the MPC! (look at me using new acronyms)

Now, I wonder if there is a Felpro or some other brand that has that gasket? That gasket from NPD was likely made by Felpro or Cometic or somebody else?? In the picture the gasket doesn't look like cork, more of a standard paper type gasket, or is it rubber?

Merc cruzer, my pump is the one with the shorter neck on it. Both were available in 54 according to the MPC.

I will definitely keep the old ram if I buy a new one. It still works fine as is, I will be monitoring the leak over the next couple weeks.

[Merc Cruzer]

"I will definitely keep the old ram if I buy a new one. It still works fine as is, I will be monitoring the leak over the next couple weeks."

I will interested to know with the stop leak in conjunction with the heat cycles, if the leaking gets better.

[KULTULZ]

There was a production break on the 1953/54 pump and 1954/55 pump. The later reservoir was smaller in diameter -

[Merc Cruzer]

KULTULZ,

Interesting. In my 54'-55' book it shows the two different sizes. My July 54' Mercury book, it only shows one for 53'.

The "*" is interesting in the 54'-55' book.

[rjlester]

Merc Cruzer, what is that device on the inside fender just in front of the voltage regulator on your car? It has a hose or two going to it.

Drove the car tonight, no change in the performance, other than the car needing an alignment.

Had a 3 inch spot in the cookie sheet I put under it. Cleaned it off and will see what it has under there tomorrow night. That fluid is very thin, it almost seemed to evaporate and just kind of leave a stain.

Definitely have to change that cover gasket, it leaks just driving around.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

KULTULZ,

Interesting. In my 54'-55' book it shows the two different sizes. My July 54' Mercury book, it only shows one for 53'.

The "*" is interesting in the 54'-55' book.

Let me see if I can make any sense ...

The PARTS CATALOGS (as well as SHOP MANUALS) were printed by quarter of the model year, the later/superseding issue(s) showing any PN/info changes.

That's what you are seeing.

I have a 1949-1953 MERC CHASSIS CATALOG but the PRINT DATE is DEC 1952. There is no mention of PS in it. It makes me wonder if some/most PS SYSTEMS were DEALER INSTALLED in those years.

My info is from the 1949/59 FORD MPC - FINAL ISSUE (and there is much in there that has been deleted).

CONTINUING -

In your 53 MERC CHASSIS CATALOG, look at BASIC PN 33304 (PS INSTALL KIT) - 33533 (PS COVER ASSY) and 33535 (PS COVER GASKET).

RE-READ POST #104 as I made a boo-boo there and corrected it (I hope).

INVALUABLE INFO - https://www.stangerssite.com/steeringsysteminfo.html

[Merc Cruzer]

KULTULZ,


I have a 1949-1953 MERC CHASSIS CATALOG but the PRINT DATE is DEC 1952. There is no mention of PS in it. It makes me wonder if some/most PS SYSTEMS were DEALER INSTALLED in those years.

PS was first offered in Mercury's in 1953.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by rjlester

Merc Cruzer, what is that device on the inside fender just in front of the voltage regulator on your car? It has a hose or two going to it.

Drove the car tonight, no change in the performance, other than the car needing an alignment.

Had a 3 inch spot in the cookie sheet I put under it. Cleaned it off and will see what it has under there tomorrow night. That fluid is very thin, it almost seemed to evaporate and just kind of leave a stain.

Definitely have to change that cover gasket, it leaks just driving around.

Considering the temperature and the limited time it has been back in service, you are doing great.

This prior post should answer that for you. When you read it, let me know if you have any questions.They are great, to say the least. Same company that made your wipers.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...=186904&page=3

[KULTULZ]

I have a 1949-1953 MERC CHASSIS CATALOG but the PRINT DATE is DEC 1952. There is no mention of PS in it. It makes me wonder if some/most PS SYSTEMS were DEALER INSTALLED in those years.

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

PS was first offered in Mercury's in 1953.

But not at model year intro. It was introduced during the model year at some point.

I figured I wouldn't make it clear. Your issue (1949-1953 MERC CHASSIS) is JUL 1954 -



My issue (1949-1953 MERC CHASSIS) was printed DEC 1952. There is no mention of PS in that issue. So the PS had to be offered after first 1953 model year intro, somewhere in the 2nd printing.

Your issue is going to contain more and corrected info.

[Merc Cruzer]

FYI: Power steering in my book runs from pages 53-71.

[Merc Cruzer]

I also noticed in my 54'-55' book, it shows two different "Cylinder assy" (ram), with two different part numbers.

It also shows the two different PS systems for 54' and 55'

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

POST #105 -

The FORD CYLINDER (BENDIX) (BENDIX and MONROE sold this design) should have an ID STAMPING somewhere on the cylinder or ends. When you get it off, look for it.

If you decide to go aftermarket, hold onto the old cylinder until it can be identified.

Boy is quoting himself now ...

See These References -

https://www.stangerssite.com/PC_IDchart.html

https://www.stangerssite.com/PCrebuilding.html

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by merc cruzer

fyi: Power steering in my book runs from pages 53-71.

thanx!

[Merc Cruzer]

I will have to try to check mine (that should be fun!) to see if it was Bendix:

FORD / EATON STYLE PUMP
How It Works - Illustrated description of the parts and operation of the Eaton style pump used from 1958 to 1965

I gave him a call and he hasn't worked on one from 53' or 54'. I sent him pictures to see if he has the parts.

Thanks for the lead.

[rjlester]

Cool, it's a vacuum pump! Good writeup on how you found it and interesting how well it works.

[Merc Cruzer]

I was at the local club auction this Fall and found another one. No one knew what it was, so I was able to pick it up for $10.00. Brought it home and hooked it up and it ran perfectibility. So I cleaned it up and now I have a backup.

Not bad, considering the one on e-bay is "UNTESTED":

https://www.ebay.com/itm/37512957771...Bk9SR-KG3_qQYw

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

I will have to try to check mine (that should be fun!) to see if it was Bendix:

I gave him a call and he hasn't worked on one from 53' or 54'. I sent him pictures to see if he has the parts.

Thanks for the lead.

You are welcome. The design was changed slightly in 1961 and they seem to specialize in MUSTANGS and such.

But he does have some good info on his site.

Always wondered if he did early. Seems to me to one heck of a market (early) if it is clean and honest work.

[rjlester]

Last night I checked the cookie sheet under the ram. About a third of the sheet was covered with fresh fluid. This is just from sitting, not even in operation. So being that it leaks that bad, I've ordered a new one from Rockauto.

Might make a gasket for the reservoir cover in the meantime as well, it just leaks too much. I turn a corner and fluid leaks out.

Other than that, I'm happy with how well it works, wouldn't go back to manual at all. These leaks are no big deal and I know how to fix them.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by rjlester

Last night I checked the cookie sheet under the ram. About a third of the sheet was covered with fresh fluid. This is just from sitting, not even in operation. So being that it leaks that bad, I've ordered a new one from Rockauto.

Might make a gasket for the reservoir cover in the meantime as well, it just leaks too much.

Check the take-off to see if FORD or aftermarket (toss).

Why not a new bowl gasket with the order?

[Merc Cruzer]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by rjlester

Last night I checked the cookie sheet under the ram. About a third of the sheet was covered with fresh fluid. This is just from sitting, not even in operation. So being that it leaks that bad, I've ordered a new one from Rockauto.

Might make a gasket for the reservoir cover in the meantime as well, it just leaks too much. I turn a corner and fluid leaks out.

Other than that, I'm happy with how well it works, wouldn't go back to manual at all. These leaks are no big deal and I know how to fix them.

Just curious, where did you get the seals for your control valve? Did all the fluid on the cookie sheet come from the control valve or the ram?

And by the way Merry Christmas to all involved with this post along with the readers too. Where would we be without our readers!

[rjlester]

They don't have a listing for that gasket:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...38825,steering

Check out the price of a pump if you don't have a core!

I bought the seals from a local seal company, was 45 bucks for the two seals. The leak is only from the ram, as the sheet is only placed under that side. The control valve is not leaking from what I can tell, only has some fluid on it that came down the hoses from the reservoir leak.

[Merc Cruzer]

Still think you could buy a nice sheet of cork and cut a new bowl gasket for the pump cover yourself. As to the ram, either a new one or have it rebuilt, which ever cost is better.

[rjlester]

Yes, absolutely and I may just have some cork in the garage.

Also want to wish this group a Merry Christmas, only a few days away! I totally appreciate the support here, including the quick responses which really help. Looking forward to what the new year brings!

[KULTULZ]

Looking For Love In All The Wrong Places -

https://www.classictbird.com/Power-S...oducts/116/1/0

[rjlester]

Looks like I stopped the reservoir cover leak, at least for now.

Pulled the cover off, and removed the gasket. I have a bunch of rubber/cork material so I was prepared to cut a new one. Noticed a nice groove worn into the gasket, or should I say compressed into the gasket on one side. Thought, hmm, what if I flipped it over and reinstalled it?

Well, I can't believe it but I drove it all over the neighborhood, hills, corners you name it and it has not leaked yet! It used to leak just driving in my yard.

New life to an old gasket, it was in great condition other than the groove. No cracks, still very supple. I love these cars. Try that on something modern haha.

Also, I tweaked the alignment and after a few test drives/adjustments I have it going straight down the road, no pulling hard left anymore. My uncle taught me a trick over 30 years ago to get your alignment relatively close to spec. It's very difficult to describe in words, I call it the "Eyeball Alignment".

For the following procedure, all four tires have to be on the ground, steering wheel centered and ideally held still (bungee cord etc). A four post hoist is best, you can do it on a flat shop floor though.

You look along the inside edge of the front tire towards the back tire on the same side of the car. If you visually line up the front inside edge of the front tire with the back inside edge of the front tire, you should just see a slight bit of the back tire, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inches of the back tire. That means you are towed in. Do the same on the other side. You can also easily tell if a tire is towed out and make the appropriate adjustment to the tie rods. Not sure how else to explain this. Years ago I did an F150 like this and then took it to the alignment shop. Didn't tell them what I did other than changing the tie rod ends. Guy said it was the easiest alignment they ever did, he moved the adjuster about 10 degrees to get it perfect.

Another bonus of the "alignment" is that the return to center is even better than before. I'm still scheduled to do a proper alignment at my buddies shop after Christmas, but for now I don't feel bad driving it around.

We are having a brown Christmas here in Alberta, so I can still drive the car anywhere, roads are totally dry.

[Merc Cruzer]

Just curious, was your gasket rubber or cork?

Glad to see the car is cooperating with you. It makes life so much nicer when you can get a few success along the way.

It has been nice here in Conifer, Colorado, but it is supposed to start snowing in the next few hours and all day tomorrow. So it will be a white Christmas again.

[KULTULZ]

I think I finally figured out why some cylinders have the external balance tube and others (not aftermarket) don't.

There was a design change on the 1957 FORD, the earlier cyl had the balance tube and the later cyl (not aftermarket) did not.

[Merc Cruzer]

It appears that my power steering cylinder, with the tube, mounted externally, was originally made by Lares Corporation, is still available at O'Reillys.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...cylinder&pos=0

$636.99 Each + Refundable Core $500.00
Just checked with my local O'Rilley's and they confirmed they can not order it. I am shocked

Evidently Lares has replaced the original cylinder with part # 10031 - available at Advanced Auto Parts.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...lVehicle=false




Also, Mac's used to do an exchange but now you have to send in your cylinder and get it back rebuilt 3-4 weeks later, for just $917.99

https://www.macsautoparts.com/1953-1...9-27562-1.html

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

It appears that my power steering cylinder, with the tube, mounted externally, was originally made by Lares Corporation, is still available at O'Reillys.

LARES is a re-manufacturer. They do quality work and is why a re-man is so expensive (your core).

Detailed Description

Power Steering Power Cylinder;

* Power Steering Cylinders are thoroughly cleaned and exterior surfaces reconditioned for like-new look.

* Each component is carefully inspected and replaced if not to OE tolerances.

* All units have new chrome shafts.

* All seals and O-rings are replaced with OE equivalent parts.

* Each unit is tested to insure OE performance.

* Painted with a high quality paint.

* All units are carefully packaged to insure safe arrival at your door.

* Re-manufactured in the USA.

A new shaft ($$$) and re-maned here are two big reasons for the price tag.

https://www.larescorp.com/

https://catalog.larescorp.com/part/10031/

You get what you pay for.

[Merc Cruzer]

LARES is a re-manufacturer.

Thanks, didn't know that.

I couldn't find a listing for one made by Bendix, with that design.

I crawled under the car last evening to see if I could find any markings on my cylinder and no luck. Maybe someone has one, not in the car.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

LARES is a re-manufacturer.

Thanks, didn't know that.

You're OK ...

I couldn't find a listing for one made by Bendix, with that design.

I crawled under the car last evening to see if I could find any markings on my cylinder and no luck. Maybe someone has one, not in the car.

Most likely over the years, the original take-offs were trashed and an aftermarket installed. THANX for re-builders such as this that can save a good core. One would have to search for a NOS or take-off.

It all depends how one wants to use the car, whether a driver, restoration or show car.

Me? I am OCD (correct alphabetical order of OCD). It has to be perfect or look perfect, even a driver.

[rjlester]

My gasket was pure rubber. Took the wife out last night driving around looking at Christmas lights, no issues with the steering other than a bit of pump noise turning at an idle.

When I swap out the ram, I'm going to switch to ATF instead of PS fluid, have had better luck with that in the past for noise.

I also don't recall any numbers on the ram cylinder when I cleaned and repainted it. I noticed in the rockauto description of the cylinder I ordered, they state that it is a new unit. Interesting as I also thought Lares was only a rebuilder.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7372&jsn=903

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by rjlester

My gasket was pure rubber. Took the wife out last night driving around looking at Christmas lights, no issues with the steering other than a bit of pump noise turning at an idle.

Your reservoir gasket?

If the pump is noisy it is most likely air ingestion in the fluid. Raise the front of the car and while the engine is idling, turn the steering wheel slowly from stop to stop (not holding against the stops) and the air should be bled out after a few turns. If not, there are further methods (if there is no air leakage into the system).

When I swap out the ram, I'm going to switch to ATF instead of PS fluid, have had better luck with that in the past for noise.

CORRECT. Remember, FORD TYPE F was not introduced until the 1968 model run so look for TYPE A (or modern upgrade replacement - usually DEXRON II). Do not buy cheap fluid as it will bite you.

I also don't recall any numbers on the ram cylinder when I cleaned and repainted it. I noticed in the rockauto description of the cylinder I ordered, they state that it is a new unit. Interesting as I also thought Lares was only a rebuilder.

No, they are also a vendor. Now be advised that the new units advertised are imports.

Did your cylinder have a balance tube?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7372&jsn=903

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by rjlester

... When I swap out the ram, I'm going to switch to ATF instead of PS fluid, have had better luck with that in the past for noise. ...

YES, the original power steering system was designed to work with ATF,
Not newer (incompatible?) fluids made for modern power steering.

[Merc Cruzer]

[B][I][COLOR="RoyalBlue"]Did your cylinder have a balance tube?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7372&jsn=903


It appears that LARES did produce the original style with the external balance tube:

LARES -30

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7372&jsn=853

I will give them a call after the holiday, to see if by chance they still make them.

Me? I am OCD (correct alphabetical order of OCD). It has to be perfect or look perfect, even a driver.

Unfortunately, I am of the same school. Mine is not a show car, but by my own standards, it has to have been originally offed by the manufacture, when the car was produced and if it is on the car, it has to be fully functional.

But in that same breath, I have always enjoyed and gotten a great sense of accomplishment, in taking something totally grungy, greasy, rusty, warn out and bringing it back to life again, as it appeared the day it left the factory. To what degree you might ask, well all of my spare/backup parts are totally redone and put away in boxes (the original box if possible). Whoever gets my car next, will also get a boat load of "new" parts for the car. I feel it is the least I can do for "the old girl", in her journey down The Mother Road.

When I say her journey "down The Mother Road", that actually has meaning. When I found her, she was owned by a gentleman in Gallup, NM and he lived 3 blocks off the main street, and main street just happened to be Route 66.

[rjlester]

Yep, it was the reservoir cover gasket.

Everything in that system was completely flushed before installation. Pump disassembled and cleaned, valve the same treatment. Ram was drained of fluid. New filter. Brand new hoses. At one point I pulled a couple lines to fix connections and the fluid all drained out. I also put in a PS treatment.

I did the lock to lock thing, but will try it again a few times and see if there is a change. Looking forward to the new ram cylinder to arrive next week.

[Merc Cruzer]

I will be interested to see if there are any markings/numbers, on the cylinder you take off.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

[B][I][COLOR="RoyalBlue"]Did your cylinder have a balance tube?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7372&jsn=903

It appears that LARES did produce the original style with the external balance tube:

LARES -30

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7372&jsn=853

They are showing as REMAN -

Remanufactured

Rebuild Process :

Power Steering Cylinders are thoroughly cleaned and exterior surfaces reconditioned for like-new look.
Each component is carefully inspected and replaced if not to OE tolerances.
All units have new chrome shafts.
All seals and O-rings are replaced with OE equivalent parts.
Each unit is tested to ensure OE performance.
Painted with a high quality paint.

Technical Support

Lares offers technical support for all of their products. Misdiagnosis is common on steering components and the technicians can help you determine if your part is the problem.

�� Phone: 1-800-555-0638

[KULTULZ]

We need to put your MERC in a CAR SHOW MAGAZINE that offers a center fold-out ...

[Merc Cruzer]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thank you. She actually made the cover of the last hard cover membership list, of the IMOA shortly after I bought it. She has come a long way, since those days.

[Merc Cruzer]

I called LARES this morning and they confirmed they could rebuild the original unit with the external line, but he didn't have any in stock. It was used from 53'-54'. The LARES 10031 is a direct replacement for the original unit, with the external line, now internal. He would sell it directly for $275.59 + shipping and handling. It comes with all the rubber bushings installed and the rubber seals, for the lines. He related that the units are built overseas.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=7372&jsn=853

[rjlester]

Thanks for calling them and letting us know the details. It's good to know that 10031 unit is a direct replacement, part of me was worried about that, and I had already ordered it.

It will probably arrive later this week, when I'm out at the cabin lol.

[KULTULZ]

I hate to be a party-pooper, but ...

I would have tried the end seal kit to see if it would stop the leakage. Don't forget the boot.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

I hate to be a party-pooper, but ...

I would have tried the end seal kit to see if it would stop the leakage. Don't forget the boot.

On the early rams, the seal was internal. The out side "seals" were nothing more than "Scrapers" to clean the shaft off, because boots were not used until later models.

I would love to find a boot for mine, but so far I haven't found one that would fit over the end of the ram.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

On the early rams, the seal was internal. The out side "seals" were nothing more than "Scrapers" to clean the shaft off, because boots were not used until later models.

The INTERNAL SEAL controls pressure/movement within the cylinder.

If that seal fails, the cylinder fails.

The END SEAL controls leakage/dirt intrusion at the cylinder piston extension.

It can leak (common) and that is what you see on your garage floor.

I would love to find a boot for mine, but so far I haven't found one that would fit over the end of the ram.

GIGGLE C1AZ 3C651-A

[Merc Cruzer]

True, I must just be lucky with mine.

[KULTULZ]

!!! DAMN !!!

Are you sure that is not a photo of when the car was new? You trying to trick us?

You need to give us a photo session on that MERC. I had no idea it was so detailed.

Now I GIGGLED C1AZ 3C651-A BOOT KIT the other night and I swear I found a NOS. Cannot come across it again. It fits 1953/1962 FORD.

Maybe if you call LARES they can give you a lead?

[Merc Cruzer]

Thank you.

I do wipe the under carriage down from time to time, just to check for any new leaks. When I change the oil, that gives me the opportunity or clean the bottom of the engine. I changed the trans fluid and put in a new filter, which gave me the opportunity to repaint the air scoop and the cover plates and dipstick tube along with the pan. Most of the miles I put on her, are highway, on nice dry sunny days with the top down.

I recently found factory accessory, door edge guards, that I have been searching for for over 13 years. That was my Christmas present to myself this year. Normally I am not a fan of door edge guards, but in this case they seem to work.

[rjlester]

Wow, your car is very nice. Great attention to detail, and good score on the edge guards! I think they look great.

Well, my ram cylinder showed up today, about an hour before I headed out to the cabin for some ice fishing. I opened the box to check that it is there and it does appear to be correct. I'll be home Saturday and that's the day it gets installed. Looking forward to having no leaks on that steering system.

I will likely try changing that seal on the old one at a later time. Just have to get the plastic spacer thingy, I already have the seal. Not sure how important that spacer is, maybe I can make my own.

[rjlester]

After two weeks of waiting to put my power steering back together, I finally got to it today. The hoses I brought back to the place that made them and after over a week, they fixed them under warranty. They admitted they put the compression fitting collars on backwards. Glad to see a business is actually willing to mention when they are at fault and I thanked them for fixing them right.

So, NO LEAKS ANYWHERE. The new ram works great, and did I mention it's been -40 the last two nights, and it will be again tonight! This afternoon it was -30 which is a LOT warmer haha I'm not kidding.

I put all the hoses back on the car, and drove it outside. Drove it around my yard, it was a bit noisy at first but there were lots of bubbles and had to top it off a couple times. Drove it around the block. No salt has been spread on the snowy roads yet, so no worries there.

It does seem quieter with the ATF than the PS fluid, but truly hard to tell with the noise of the tires on the snow.

Overall, SUPER happy with it and after putting about two miles on it, I got underneath and it's completely dry. The control valve, hoses, and the ram are drip free. It used to drip when it wasn't even moving.

Thanks to everyone for your help on this forum, especially to Kultulz and Merc Cruzer for all the pictures and quick responses. I have now parked the car for the rest of the winter in it's own garage, and I don't have to squeeze my daily driver everyday under the Meteor which was up on the hoist the last two weeks.

Just checked the weather report, they are now saying -43 tonight. Sheesh.

[Merc Cruzer]

Good to hear you were totally successful in the PS project.

Any worries about the block or radiator freezing at -45?

65 Days until Spring!

[rjlester]

Not worried at all, we use a 50/50 antifreeze mix here in everything. Even if you have 60%(water) and only 40%(antifreeze) it will gel, but not freeze/burst. Have had engines start in freezing weather, but the rad will plug with gelled antifreeze as well as the heater core. Last time I had that happen was 30 years ago, that car just didn't have the right mix in the cooling system. Was puzzled as to why the heater didn't work, then hit the highway and the engine overheated, in -40 weather! Insane haha. Once thawed nothing leaked.

They announced last night on a cellphone emergency alert that there might have to be rotating power outages as the power grid was stressed. Hmm, why were all the solar panels and windmills the province installed not working last night?

Last night we only got down to -40.2 so not as bad as thought, still crazy cold.

[Merc Cruzer]

I am lucky, in that when we built our house, we dug the garage, below the house, into the side of a mountain, so the garage is literally 9' below ground level and it never gets below 45 degrees, no matter how cold it gets. The nice thing, is that if you go out on a snowy day and come back with the car all packed with snow in the wheel wells, it will be totally melted off by morning.The garage floor is sloped to the front so it all run off away from the car.

A small space heater will heat the single bay to the point you are comfortable working in a sweatshirt, while working on the car. This came in handy when I was rebuilding the motor.

I woke up to a balmy 20 degrees, so I will consider myself lucky.

A few years back we got tired of the power going off during the winter. No heat no water , no toilet (we are on well and septic). So we installed a whole house Generac generator. Since then, we have never had a power outage. It just goes alone with my philosophy on back up parts for the car, if you have them, you wiill never need them, but if you don't....

[rjlester]

Your garage sounds like a sweet setup. I upgraded our garage furnace here almost the day we moved in 25 years ago. They had a small, probably 30000 btu ceiling heater. Now I have a 100k house furnace in there, works great. When I installed an insulated garage door about 10 years ago it totally changed the atmosphere in there as well. Natural gas used to be quite cheap here, not so much anymore.

My septic line froze in the tank last night, but I dropped a 900 watt interior car heater in there for a few hours and that did the trick. I keep forgetting to insulate the tank lid in the summer, as about every three or four years we get it cold enough here to freeze things.

Good idea on the power generator, a friend of mine has one in Saskatchewan as he does get a lot of power outages in his area. We haven't had one in a long, long time here. I do have a 3000 watt inverter/generator ready to go just in case.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

I was at the local club auction this Fall and found another one. No one knew what it was, so I was able to pick it up for $10.00. Brought it home and hooked it up and it ran perfectibility. So I cleaned it up and now I have a backup.

Not bad, considering the one on e-bay is "UNTESTED"

- AND THE SEA PARTED -

Here is some more info on Trico Electro-Vac Booster Pump -

https://www.mercuryclub.com/2017/03/...ercury-wipers/

There was a 6V and 12V offered.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

I hate to be a party-pooper, but ...

I would have tried the end seal kit to see if it would stop the leakage. Don't forget the boot.

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

The INTERNAL SEAL controls pressure/movement within the cylinder.

If that seal fails, the cylinder fails.

The END SEAL controls leakage/dirt intrusion at the cylinder piston extension.

It can leak (common) and that is what you see on your garage floor.

GIGGLE C1AZ 3C651-A

- AGAIN, THE SEA PARTS AND THE BOY SEES THE LIGHT -

... dumba$$ ...

Had a flash. Doubt the FORD SEAL KIT would work on an aftermarket cylinder ...

... The BLUE PILLS ... Honey. where are they?

[Gene F]

I had a 1st generation Mustang with a Ford unit. Sooner or later they all leak, and re-leak. Just my experience.

[KULTULZ]

An integral box/system is also going to leak at some point.