The Ford Barn

Bruce of MN · 05-07-2022, 06:39 AM

I have only moved the Kingpin Locking Pin 3/32" or so, but I am escalating my approach. During a lull in that action, I started on removing the Front Brake Actuating Arm. The nut* came off OK and I was able to pivot the stud out of the lug on the spring perch a little bit, but then it jammed. The Les Andrews book says to use large pliers or a pipe wrench to remove it. I'll try that, but it is hard to get out, reinstalling will be tough, too, and I don't want to get in trouble there!

Any tips on removing and installing?

* The Les Andrews book says 9/16" wrench, I needed a 5/8"

Marshall V. Daut · 05-07-2022, 07:05 AM

The king pin must be loose in its bore so that it can turn. This allows the actuating arm stud to clear the hole in the spring perch so that the arm can be removed. That means you must finish removing the king pin locking stud. Otherwise, although you may be able to knock the arm out with a BFH, this will ruin the threads on the stud. And you will not be able to re-install the arm without damaging them again, assuming you used a die to restore the damaged threads after the arm was removed by force.
Keep at it and get that locking stud out. The rest will be easy, both disassembly and reassembly.
Marshall

katy · 05-07-2022, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

I have only moved the Kingpin Locking Pin 3/32" or so,

Something wrong there, the pin is tapered, if it has moved that much it should be loose.

Marshall V. Daut · 05-07-2022, 11:01 AM

Put the tall stop nut back on the king pin locking pin threads and screw it down until a small gap exists between it and the axle. Then you can whack the end of the nut with a BFH until the locking pin moves outward a little from the axle and the nut bottoms out against the axle. Back the nut off a couple turns and repeat with the hammer. As the tapered part of the pin reaches the king pin shaft, the pin will be easier and easier to drive out. You may end up using a large punch/drift to drive the pin completely out of the axle. It WILL come out. Just be sure the king pin is not cocked in its bore or else that will put pressure against the locking pin and bind it up. If you have forced the actuating arm back until its stud is stuck in the spring perch hole, knock the arm forward so that the king pin can be rotated enough to face parallel with the top of the axle, i.e., in direct alignment towards the other king pin.
By doing it this way with the tall lock nut and hammer, the threads on the locking pin will not be damaged when the hammer strikes the tall nut. Use a HEAVY hammer! It also wouldn't hurt to apply some heat on the axle around the locking pin
Marshall

Bruce of MN · 05-08-2022, 05:24 AM

Thanks, having the king pin loose to get the arm off is in the Andrews book, I was sloppy about reading it.

I've been using a 4# dead blow hammer and its plastic must be cushioning the blow and I'll switch to a steel sledge, with the long nut at a small gap to keep from bending the stud plus more heat.

BillCNC · 05-09-2022, 09:01 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

I have only moved the Kingpin Locking Pin 3/32" or so, but I am escalating my approach. During a lull in that action, I started on removing the Front Brake Actuating Arm. The nut* came off OK and I was able to pivot the stud out of the lug on the spring perch a little bit, but then it jammed. The Les Andrews book says to use large pliers or a pipe wrench to remove it. I'll try that, but it is hard to get out, reinstalling will be tough, too, and I don't want to get in trouble there!

Any tips on removing and installing?

* The Les Andrews book says 9/16" wrench, I needed a 5/8"

There are a couple of corrections to Les Andrewes book that pertain to your job. If you haven't corrected your books (Red, Green and Blue) you should do so now.

Regards
Bill

katy · 05-10-2022, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

I've been using a 4# dead blow hammer

Suggest that you use a steel hammer and a brass drift.

Bruce of MN · 05-10-2022, 11:45 AM

Going back to steel didn't help, I had to drill it out.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...08&postcount=5

05-07-2022, 06:39 AM	#1
Bruce of MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: VA Posts: 1,411	Removing Front Brake Actuating Arm I have only moved the Kingpin Locking Pin 3/32" or so, but I am escalating my approach. During a lull in that action, I started on removing the Front Brake Actuating Arm. The nut* came off OK and I was able to pivot the stud out of the lug on the spring perch a little bit, but then it jammed. The Les Andrews book says to use large pliers or a pipe wrench to remove it. I'll try that, but it is hard to get out, reinstalling will be tough, too, and I don't want to get in trouble there! Any tips on removing and installing? * The Les Andrews book says 9/16" wrench, I needed a 5/8"

05-07-2022, 07:05 AM	#2
Marshall V. Daut Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Davenport, Iowa Posts: 2,112	Re: Removing Front Brake Actuating Arm The king pin must be loose in its bore so that it can turn. This allows the actuating arm stud to clear the hole in the spring perch so that the arm can be removed. That means you must finish removing the king pin locking stud. Otherwise, although you may be able to knock the arm out with a BFH, this will ruin the threads on the stud. And you will not be able to re-install the arm without damaging them again, assuming you used a die to restore the damaged threads after the arm was removed by force. Keep at it and get that locking stud out. The rest will be easy, both disassembly and reassembly. Marshall

05-07-2022, 11:01 AM	#4
Marshall V. Daut Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Davenport, Iowa Posts: 2,112	Re: Removing Front Brake Actuating Arm Put the tall stop nut back on the king pin locking pin threads and screw it down until a small gap exists between it and the axle. Then you can whack the end of the nut with a BFH until the locking pin moves outward a little from the axle and the nut bottoms out against the axle. Back the nut off a couple turns and repeat with the hammer. As the tapered part of the pin reaches the king pin shaft, the pin will be easier and easier to drive out. You may end up using a large punch/drift to drive the pin completely out of the axle. It WILL come out. Just be sure the king pin is not cocked in its bore or else that will put pressure against the locking pin and bind it up. If you have forced the actuating arm back until its stud is stuck in the spring perch hole, knock the arm forward so that the king pin can be rotated enough to face parallel with the top of the axle, i.e., in direct alignment towards the other king pin. By doing it this way with the tall lock nut and hammer, the threads on the locking pin will not be damaged when the hammer strikes the tall nut. Use a HEAVY hammer! It also wouldn't hurt to apply some heat on the axle around the locking pin Marshall

05-08-2022, 05:24 AM	#5
Bruce of MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: VA Posts: 1,411	Re: Removing Front Brake Actuating Arm Thanks, having the king pin loose to get the arm off is in the Andrews book, I was sloppy about reading it. I've been using a 4# dead blow hammer and its plastic must be cushioning the blow and I'll switch to a steel sledge, with the long nut at a small gap to keep from bending the stud plus more heat. Last edited by Bruce of MN; 05-10-2022 at 11:43 AM.

05-10-2022, 11:45 AM	#8
Bruce of MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: VA Posts: 1,411	Re: Removing Front Brake Actuating Arm Going back to steel didn't help, I had to drill it out. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...08&postcount=5