how to keep fenders form re-cracking on a 36 pickup

[Tom Morookian]

Contact: [email protected]

He makes patch panels for cars that might work for trucks. He hand forms them on a buck.

For some flexibility you can fiberglass in a copper or steel tube bent to the shape of the fender. spreads the stress out over a wider area.

Fat Fenders Forever

[Mike B]

Originally Posted by 36tbird

I can't tell you the name of the MIG wire to use, but I've read on other forums about wire that gives you a softer weld, grinds smooth easier. I'd check with a reputable welding shop for the info.

I think you might be thinking of the ESAB wire...called EZ weld I think?

[Steel 35]

Originally Posted by SSsssteamer

To Steel 35, The easiest fix is to cut a repair piece out of a junk rear fender and then weld it in your good rear fender. Another fix is to create a patch panel rolled to fit the void. A hammer and dolly can work it too. After it is formed about right, then use a beading tool to get the rolled edge matched exactly to what you need. I have done the same repair many times like what you are working on. The hardest part was to make the correct dies for my beading tool. My rear fender came out perfect. If the beaded fender edge is short, a hammer and dolly can fake a beaded edge real quickly.

I wish I had a piece to just weld in! Here is another Idea I found to get the hard part started. I am thinking spoon, paddle, slapper Maybe a rock?

[35window]

Do you, by chance, have a Bead Roller? With a tipping wheel on a Bead roller you could easily create the Panels you posted-otherwise, I would make them with a wooden buck-

[gerrald meacham]

ted ill take all the peaces you cut off your fine ford

[Cool Hand Lurker]

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I don't think this will help on the pickup fender because of the extra edge bead, but I made a die for this patch panel for the front fenders of my 1935 sedan. It will take some time but I could make one for the pickup if there is enough call for it. I would need a piece of the fender so I could determine the radius of the roll and the bead width and a measurement of the fender cutout radius. I know the 35 Sedan has a 15" radius on the front fender but I am not sure if that is the same as the 36 or the pickup.
No guarantee that I could make it good enough or quick enough but it is worth a try.

[gerrald meacham]

cool hand that looks good

[Fourdy]

On my 40, I had some small cracks on the lip. I sandblasted the area then welded a length of rod in for support. I then filled and shaped some heavy roofing tar paste into the lip so that water cannot stand and collect wet dirt or the fine chemicals we get on our winter roads.

Just my .02's worth.

Fourdy

[Steel 35]

Originally Posted by 35window

Do you, by chance, have a Bead Roller? With a tipping wheel on a Bead roller you could easily create the Panels you posted-otherwise, I would make them with a wooden buck-

A friend has one, I have forwarned him, bad thing is he has caller ID.

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Lurker

I don't think this will help on the pickup fender because of the extra edge bead, but I made a die for this patch panel for the front fenders of my 1935 sedan. It will take some time but I could make one for the pickup if there is enough call for it. I would need a piece of the fender so I could determine the radius of the roll and the bead width and a measurement of the fender cutout radius. I know the 35 Sedan has a 15" radius on the front fender but I am not sure if that is the same as the 36 or the pickup.
No guarantee that I could make it good enough or quick enough but it is worth a try.

If you can stamp them out they will come! That does look good.
Now you have me on option 4 or is it 5 and I am skipping right to it! got to put that 40 ton ironworker to use.....

[Steel 35]

Originally Posted by 35window

Do you, by chance, have a Bead Roller? With a tipping wheel on a Bead roller you could easily create the Panels you posted-otherwise, I would make them with a wooden buck-

I have not watched a bead roller before tonight looking up the tipping wheels, looks like another project coming on! I need to have my internet shut off. Now I started on a die, had already cut a wooden pattern, and just got the shrinker / stretcher That one is out for this project but I did give the wooden pattern a test slap tonight the wood failed, but looks promising, Still need to roll a bead but this should make a good practice piece for that as well. I should have this piece done by Monday just don't know what month.........

[FlatheadTed]

Yes Gerald shes a nice three window

Originally Posted by gerrald meacham

ted ill take all the peaces you cut off your fine ford

[kwmpa]

Originally Posted by Fourdy

On my 40, I had some small cracks on the lip. I sandblasted the area then welded a length of rod in for support. I then filled and shaped some heavy roofing tar paste into the lip so that water cannot stand and collect wet dirt or the fine chemicals we get on our winter roads.

Just my .02's worth.

Fourdy

tar is a bad idea...it never 100% seals and moistyure gets trapped behind it and causes rust out espicially in areas that use salt...tar WELL dry out and crack... at the shop the last hand full of cars had tar put in them when you go it off the tar was there but the sheetmetal that was supposed to be behind it was missing and im talking like entire kick panels....stay away....best thing to do is seal with fusor 110b from napa then prime ans see if any pin holes opened up(holes suck in primer)seal any pin holes and if you want topaint then paint or take to a shop and have truck bed liner sprayed on

[FlatheadTed]

After experimenting I realise the advice I gave is not going to work, because there is a bead around the edge ,A bead/ swagger roller is likely a good investment specially if you want to do more cars .The bit about the tree stump instead of a English wheel is relevant .

[Fourdy]

KWMPA,
Thanks for the info. Fortunately I used a small amount at the rear of the fenders. Reminds me of the saying -

Too soon old, too late smart. LOL

Fourdy

[Steel 35]

My patch for the day and it was a long one! Picture #4 was my first bead roll test but oh did I find some lead it that old girl...........

[Henry/Kokomo]

Way to go Steel 35. Nice job!

[cuzncletus]

Bubba fix. Hammer and dolly the crack back into shape. Drill out the end of the crack just like in a block and use a grinder with a metal cutting wheel to widen the gap in the crack. Cut a strip of 18 ga. (thinnest I usually keep around) about 1" wide and a little longer than the crack. From the backside hammerform it to the shape of the crack. I usually hold this piece in place with a clamp or long reach vice grips. Where there is good contact between the bandaid strip and the two sides of the crack, spot weld ACROSS from one side of the fender to the other. Now you've got the two sides of the crack connected plus a backing thickness of fresh steel. Hammering and moving the clamps for a tight fit as you go, stitch weld across like before. Soon the crack is welded and backed.

Welding across leaves a minimum of slag or unburnt wire stuck in the joint. When the crack is full, you can either turn the fender upside down and weld the edges of the bandaid 18 ga. to the fender or drill holes from the top, hammer, and fill with a rosette. (You may want to drill and clean the holes from the top in advance if you know this is what you'll need to do.) The purpose is to distribute the stress of the crack into a wider area. I do a lot of this professionally (not on cars; don't ask). If neatness is a criteria on the inside you can grind and undercoat the patch. This may not be for Pebble Beach but, then again, Pebble Beach ain't for me.

[Steel 35]

Couple more bolts and some paint on the rear bracket's, then its just detail's

[Mart]

Nice job on the repair, thanks for showing the improvised bead roller in the lathe - I have a lathe and I never thought of that before.

Mart.

[tetanus]

Originally Posted by Mike B

I think you might be thinking of the ESAB wire...called EZ weld I think?

I think its called ez grind???