1936 , 3W , Body Mount rubber thickness?

[Shrapnel]

Hey Folks.
Hoping someone will know what thickness the rubber/cork body mounts should be at the various points between frame and body.
I’m about to embark on completing the repairs / rebuild on a car that has already had a new floor pan made and tacked in .
Frame has been stripped with a number of repairs carried out , and new body mounts ( at B-pillar and forward of rear wheel arch ) tacked in place.
There is NO rubber mounts here , the owner (since passed) had been building the car up from parts he’s sourced from both in the states , and here in New Zealand.
He has made a great start on things , but , unfortunately, we have no real understanding where exactly the car is at.

After spending a great deal of time trying to get the front clip in its correct place ( with a lot of help from threads posted here I’ll add , Cheer Guys 👍 ) , I managed to work out that the body was in fact twisted between the floor and sub rails , resulting in the Grille needing to be offset by 1” to get a half Pie even gap between hood and cowl panel. Luckily the sub rails are only tacked in place , so cutting the tacks on the LH side has allowed the body to shift back 3/16” and has mostly cured our hood/grille misalignment. This also resulted in the Trunk Lid now sitting square in the hole. The grille now sits 3/16” or less offset , and hood to cowl gap runs from 1/8” on LH side to 3/8” on Rh side. This is with the body just sitting directly in the frame with no packers , or bolts in place. The grille , radiator and fender brackets are all bolted firm.


My plan going forward is to shim/pack and bolt the body down firm (using alloy blocks ) to the frame which is sitting Level on axle stands.
I figure on using alloy packers/shims will let me get the doors , hoodsides gaps as best I can , and then to carry on with the work required to complete the body repairs and work. It’ll also mean that things won’t change depending on how loose or tight the bolts are , or if the car gets moved , OR have any welding and rubber fire issues !
Once all repairs are carried out and the body structure is locked in , I’ll remove the alloy packers and fit/shim a rubber/cork set , , speaking of which , , who is the preferred supplier for these , no sense buying a bad product here !

My guess is that the body should sit at least 1/4” off the frame , but this could be as much as 3/8” in places and as little as 1/8” in other places . I did read 1/8” packer at rear bumper bracket mount.
As I mentioned , when I got here , the body is sitting directly on the frame and I’m looking for solid starting points at the various body mounts.

Thanks In Advance
Shrappy 😎

[JM 35 Sedan]

Hello Shrappy, this may not be exactly the help you are looking for, but thought I would post anyway incase you are not aware that this complete body to frame mounting kit is available from a supplier here in the States.

https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/car...RoCO5wQAvD_BwE

[Shrapnel]

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Hi John .
Cheers for the heads up on the body mount kit. We’re gonna be needing a set for sure .

I’ve started shimming the body , using 5/16 alloy packers as a starting point , and getting what I’d call , a pretty good result with most gaps only needing minor shimming to improve , , , naturally , the front clip is still a work in progress .

Shrappy 😎