Hydrolic clutch

[Ricosan]

Well this is completely new to me. A Hydrolic clutch. I didn’t know there was such a thing on early V8s. My car is 1933 and for sure came with the basic “manual” clutch release but it looks like during the restoration, the builder decided to go with a Hydrolic clutch since the car was being fittedt for Hydrolic brakes at the time.

Currently I have to push the clutch all the way to the floor to shift without grinding. When I compress the clutch, it doesn’t engage the fingers on the flywheel until 3 - 3 1/2” down.

I would like to adjust so that it engages/disengages closer to 1 1/2 - 2” from the top. It looks like there are 2 adjustments shown in the photos. The ss at the top looks like if the cotter key was removed and the nut loosened, it could be adjusted. The black one just underneath the ss piece could be adjusted out after removing the cotter key and the pin.

What do I adjust? Both! Am I completely on the wrong tract? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Richard

[Bored&Stroked]

I would like some better pictures. I think I see the stock linkage in the picture - with the threaded rod going to the clutch shaft (painted black). The brass valve you're looking at might be some sort of vacuum switch. Does your car happen to have a Columbia rear end in it?

If it has the stock linkage, then all you'll need to do is take the shaft to the clutch arm loose and thread it out a fit (to lengthen the throw).

Report back on what you see - and/or take some additional pics of that the black rod is that attaches to the clutch pedal and I believe goes to the clutch cross-shaft.

Best of luck.

[Bored&Stroked]

Here is what I'm seeing . . . or believe I'm seeing:

clutch.jpg

[V8COOPMAN]

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Ricosan ....I would love to be avle to help you here, but my head is beginning to hurt trying to see the parts that really matter. We need to be able to see the clutch-release arm where it goes into the left side of transmission. We also need to clearly see the rod that attaches to that clutch release arm. We need to be able to see how the hydraulic slave cylinder pushes on that clutch release rod. The areas where threaded adjustments are present also need to be clearly shown. Can ya try again?

Coop - An AMERICAN

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[Ricosan]

Sorry about the photos. I’ll get some more after lunch. Btw both the black rod and the ss rod move simultaneously in the same direction when the clutch is depressed.

Richard

[deuce lover]

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Withdraw my comment.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Ricosan

Sorry about the photos. I’ll get some more after lunch. Btw both the black rod and the ss rod move simultaneously in the same direction when the clutch is depressed.

Richard

Richard ...I'm trying to wrap my head around WHY there are two rods in the first place. Logic tells me that either one rod, or the other should be pushing on that clutch release arm. We need to know what is on the other end of BOTH of those rods, please. Obviously, the clutch pedal on one of them (likely the black one). Buy what is the other rod doing? Coop - An AMERICAN

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[Mart]

From looking at the pics, it does not appear to be a hydraulic clutch setup. The master cylinder you show (I would guess) is for the brakes, if hydraulic brakes are fitted.
The cylinder, might be some sort of vacuum switch, possibly something to do with a columbia setup.
1, does your car have hydraulic brakes?
2, does it have a columbia or any other sort of overdrive?

I would say disconnect the brass cylinder and get down to the mechanical clutch rod. Lengthen it to raise your pedal.
Then work out what the brass thing is doing and refit it if it is necessary.

3, where do the pipes go to from the brass cylinder?

Mart.

[richard crow]

it,s a valve for a columbia over drive does your car have a columbia

[GB SISSON]

Does your brake system use a modern style dual brake master? Is there a separate master cylinder for the clutch? There would have to be if it's a hydraulic clutch. There would also be a slave cylinder actuating the cross shaft which holds the throw out bearing. Are these master cylinders under the floorboards or on the firewall? I have built a few hydraulic clutch setups in old fords, and they were very simple. Yours looks overly complicated. When you are taking the better photos, shoot a quick one of your wagon from the side.

[Ricosan]

OK here are some more pics. It’s hard to get in the right position to get the perfect shot but these will hopefully shed some light on the situation.
When I depress the clutch, both rods move. The top ss rod appears to goes into the brass device and the black (larger) rod goes to the top of the lever on the left side of the transmission.

Yes, it does have a Columbia. This is new to me too.

[jimTN]

Still makes no sense. What is the vac.stuff tied to? An original clutch arm and adjusting link is shown in the latest pics.

[40cpe]

You need to lengthen the rod that the black clevis is threaded on. Remove it from the clutch arm and screw it out a few threads. Then reinstall the pin and check your clutch pedal play. It is trial and error to get it right. I don't know what effect it will have on the columbia adjustment.

[A bones]

If you ask me, I see 4 pics of the same area. Let's show more areas. like beginning and ending pedal arms and trans bell housing. Appreciate that you seem to be on your back, and you are good with lighting.

It would be better though, to view the whole story.

[Bored&Stroked]

From the pics, it has a stock clutch setup with an additional vacuum valve that is driven off of the clutch actuator. As I and other have mentioned, the clutch adjustment will be the SAME as with a stock setup and the vacuum switch is most likely for a Columbia overdrive (is about the only device I can think of that would need one).


I will say, that I like that vacuum setup and I wish I knew who made it and where to buy one. Also, it looks like some very professional work was done on the transmission case to mount and index it. Nice work by somebody!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Ricosan

When I depress the clutch, both rods move. The top ss rod appears to goes into the brass device and the black (larger) rod goes to the top of the lever on the left side of the transmission.

Yes, it does have a Columbia. This is new to me too.

NOW things are beginning to make sense! That ain't no stinking HYDRAULIC clutch....that's part of the clutch control mechanism that allows the COLUMBIA to shift when a person shifts into, or out of OVERDRIVE!

Now, as to the original problem....too much free play in the clutch pedal. It is POSSIBLE that you MAY have the wrong throw-out bearing installed. If the throw-out bearing is too short (from front to rear), one would experience the symptoms that you describe. But....first, try lengthening the MAIN pushrod via thread adjustment. Looking ay the rod in my picture (for illustration purposes), you would UN-thread the clevis on the rod, so that the rod becomes effectively LONGER. This will likely take a couple of "trial & error" adjustments to see how it feels.

QUESTION....Does your clutch pedal return (via spring) all the way back to the top of travel, against the floorboard? Or is there some slop where you have to LIFTT the pedal manually all the way UP?

Could you possibly take a picture or two of that MAIN clutch release rod at the REAR end, where it is activated by the pedal?

Coop/AMERICAN




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[Tinker]

Yblocks used a hydrophilic clutch pedal assist to the lever to the throw out. 1957 for sure.


Coop is narrowing it down

[Ricosan]

Here is the best pic I have of the Clovis attached to the clutch release rod. I think 40cpe may have it. If I lengthen the Clovis rod it will raise the clutch engagement point, Hydrolic or not. Does this sound right

Richard

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Ricosan

Here is the best pic I have of the Clovis attached to the clutch release rod. I think 40cpe may have it. If I lengthen the Clovis rod it will raise the clutch engagement point, Hydrolic or not. Does this sound right

Richard

QUESTION....Does your clutch pedal return (via spring) all the way back to the top of travel, against the floorboard? Or is there some slop where you have to LIFT the pedal manually all the way UP?


I had a very specific reason for asking this question above in post #16! Would you answer it, please?

Coop/AMERICAN

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[Ricosan]

Coop, yes the pedal returns to the original position without a problem. When first pressing the clutch pedal, I feel little resistance for the first several inches before engaging the pressure plate fingers. From that point I am almost half way to the floor and it becomes difficult to always press it all the way to the floor to cleanly shift.

That Clovis and rod in your photograph is the same one as I’ve been trying to photograph without much luck.

I don’t recall the clutch on my previous ‘34 to be as difficult to operate.

Richard