The Ford Barn

adileo · 02-01-2020, 04:35 PM

Thanks Phil

The car will run so I must have spark. Just now... I started it let it idle for 5-10 and then it stalls. It almost sounds like it’s running low on fuel before it dies. Then I can’t restart.

Tinker · 02-02-2020, 09:31 PM

It's pretty easy to see if the resistor is working with a volt meter. Cold and hot.

JM 35 Sedan · 02-03-2020, 10:41 AM

Every post I read on this thread, makes me think of something that needs to be checked carefully to be able to rule out whether certain components are either good or possibly defective, or a person could chase their tail on something like this for a long time.
Just reading these last few posts made me think of these....
1.) To check that coil ballist resistor, that's on the firewall behind the dash, I would suggest disconnecting one side to remove it from the circuit, and measure its resistance when it's cold and after its been heated. It's very possible for that wire wound resistor to function normal when cold, and intermittently when warm/hot. You could also check this with a DC voltmeter when it's in its energized (functioning) circuit. Also, if you have a known good replacement resistor, replace the one in your car now with that new one.

2.) Your electric fuel pump could also be operating intermittently, for several different reasons, and that could cause the problem you are having....so that possibility needs to be carefully check out.

3.) I agree with a previous statement that Skip's coils are normally good/infallible, BUT...I know of a situation where one of his coils was literally fried to a crisp due to user error. I have also seen them failed by unintentionally leaving the ignition switch "on" for an extended period of time....otherwise known as forgetfulness :-)
So, make sure that Skip Haney coil is good. Again, they must be checked when cold, AND....when heated.

4.) This is hindsight, but testing the switch should have been done as a separate test. I would have suggested jumpering the terminals on back of switch with a wire and an alligator clip attached to each end. If the switch contacts were operating intermittently, the jumper would temporarily correct that, possibly allowing the engine to keep running.

I'll come back and add to this list after rereading some of the other posts.....

JSeery · 02-03-2020, 10:43 AM

Not sure you noticed John, but he started a second post on the same topic. And I agree 100% with your suggestions!

JM 35 Sedan · 02-03-2020, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery

Not sure you noticed John, but he started a second post on the same topic. And I agree 100% with your suggestions!

I saw that, and that's the worse thing to do when posting a thread trying to get help on a problem situation like this

02-01-2020, 04:35 PM	#41
adileo Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,772	Re: 39 coupe Thanks Phil The car will run so I must have spark. Just now... I started it let it idle for 5-10 and then it stalls. It almost sounds like it’s running low on fuel before it dies. Then I can’t restart. __________________ Thanks Andy 1952 F1

02-02-2020, 09:31 PM	#42
Tinker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: MN Posts: 7,053	Re: 39 coupe It's pretty easy to see if the resistor is working with a volt meter. Cold and hot.

02-03-2020, 10:41 AM	#43
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: 39 coupe Every post I read on this thread, makes me think of something that needs to be checked carefully to be able to rule out whether certain components are either good or possibly defective, or a person could chase their tail on something like this for a long time. Just reading these last few posts made me think of these.... 1.) To check that coil ballist resistor, that's on the firewall behind the dash, I would suggest disconnecting one side to remove it from the circuit, and measure its resistance when it's cold and after its been heated. It's very possible for that wire wound resistor to function normal when cold, and intermittently when warm/hot. You could also check this with a DC voltmeter when it's in its energized (functioning) circuit. Also, if you have a known good replacement resistor, replace the one in your car now with that new one. 2.) Your electric fuel pump could also be operating intermittently, for several different reasons, and that could cause the problem you are having....so that possibility needs to be carefully check out. 3.) I agree with a previous statement that Skip's coils are normally good/infallible, BUT...I know of a situation where one of his coils was literally fried to a crisp due to user error. I have also seen them failed by unintentionally leaving the ignition switch "on" for an extended period of time....otherwise known as forgetfulness :-) So, make sure that Skip Haney coil is good. Again, they must be checked when cold, AND....when heated. 4.) This is hindsight, but testing the switch should have been done as a separate test. I would have suggested jumpering the terminals on back of switch with a wire and an alligator clip attached to each end. If the switch contacts were operating intermittently, the jumper would temporarily correct that, possibly allowing the engine to keep running. I'll come back and add to this list after rereading some of the other posts..... __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein* Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 02-03-2020 at 11:22 AM.

02-03-2020, 10:43 AM	#44
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: 39 coupe Not sure you noticed John, but he started a second post on the same topic. And I agree 100% with your suggestions!