The Ford Barn

Doctor's Ford · 06-27-2015, 04:59 PM

Installing my dash light switch. Is there a grommet where the switch lever fits? The hole in the dash seems too large for it and a 1/4 grommet fits well but I could not find any reference if this is correct. Photos show what I am asking.

koates · 06-27-2015, 05:16 PM

No grommet goes there. Is correct just like in photo #1 but with two small screws in through the little holes which screw into threaded holes in the switch mounting plate behind. The hole is large to enable the switch lever to swing left and right. Regards, Kevin.

Lawson Cox · 06-27-2015, 05:24 PM

That is an incorrect switch. The "lever" on the switch is round, same diameter from one end to the other. (If you care that much about originality. lol)

Doctor's Ford · 06-27-2015, 06:56 PM

Yes koates, I now realize the hole size is intentionally large to permit moving the switch. Thanks Lawson for pointing out. I didn't know there are different lever shapes. Will certainly use the NOS one I have. Trying to be 100% "correct" is way beyond my capabilities ... and my wallet!

FrankWest · 06-27-2015, 08:00 PM

Manuel,
My car has the original switch, The first time I switched the dash light came on for an instant then went out and never came on again. The switch began sticking so I removed it and took it apart got the switch operating smoothly again but my dash light never came on again! I think that many of these OLD cars are hunted! I don;t drink and think that, maybe I should start.

Lawson Cox · 06-27-2015, 09:05 PM

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Did you check the bulb?? LOL

koates · 06-28-2015, 12:34 AM

Yes Lawson is correct about the switch shaft size but these switches were fitted to other car makes and non auto applications and are still made today new. I have some very old large size switch levers which I have removed from 1930s cars including fords. So the straight lever is correct but is the fat lever wrong ?? Regards, Kevin.

Terry,OH · 06-28-2015, 05:38 AM

Photo of an original switch below, as well as it wired to the dash light and bracket. there is a hemispherical bulge at the bottom of the switch handle, unless the hole for the switch is large the switch would not sit flat to the bottom of the dash when screwed down.
Frank: Light bulb is #63 just pull the bulb socket out of the bracket (snug push fit)

FrankWest · 06-28-2015, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Did you check the bulb?? LOL

You're right....a flash like that usually means the blub..I bought several one for the dash and another for the dome light.
Other project's took precedence over the interior lights until now,
when my head lights and tail lights are no longer working.
Can't get the dome light cover off either. I'm a mess!

Lawson Cox · 06-28-2015, 06:45 AM

There is a snap ring that holds the lens in place on the 33-34's,

Terry,OH · 06-28-2015, 06:50 AM

The round split snap ring is just to the outside of the glass lens and inside the metal body. Carefully pry the ring out with small screw driver but be careful not to drop the glass lens.

FrankWest · 06-28-2015, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Photo of an original switch below, as well as it wired to the dash light and bracket. there is a hemispherical bulge at the bottom of the switch handle, unless the hole for the switch is large the switch would not sit flat to the bottom of the dash when screwed down.
Frank: Light bulb is #63 just pull the bulb socket out of the bracket (snug push fit)

Just replaced a very defective dash bulb with a new one...

Thanks for you help...
Still not working...Part of my electrical lighting problems. Trying to isolate the bad wire....
Preparing to purchase a new harness, but would still like to find where the problem is.

FrankWest · 06-28-2015, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

The round split snap ring is just to the outside of the glass lens and inside the metal body. Carefully pry the ring out with small screw driver but be careful not to drop the glass lens.

Trying to find the drawing of the dome light with snap ring and glass.
If I just pry it out I feel I may crack the glass.

Lawson Cox · 06-28-2015, 02:25 PM

You shouldn't crack the glass. Just don't drop it. LOL

Doctor's Ford · 06-28-2015, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Photo of an original switch below, as well as it wired to the dash light and bracket. there is a hemispherical bulge at the bottom of the switch handle, unless the hole for the switch is large the switch would not sit flat to the bottom of the dash when screwed down.

The hemispherical bulge you referred to is seen in this photo. This is an old switch I got as an NOS. May be an old reproduction then? Lever has a bronze finish and is almost cylindrical shape, just a bit tapered at the base.

I see your bulb holding bracket is fastened to the dash. Mine is welded. I can't remember where I read that welded ones were used earlier (32?) and fastened came later (33-34?).

FrankWest · 06-28-2015, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

You shouldn't crack the glass. Just don't drop it. LOL

I can see the space approx 1/8 in between the inner ring front and back.
Are you sure that this ring can be pried out with a screwdriver.

Lawson Cox · 06-28-2015, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankWest

I can see the space approx 1/8 in between the inner ring front and back.
Are you sure that this ring can be pried out with a screwdriver.

Yes. Look for a small space or gap in the ring. Pry up/out near that gap.

FrankWest · 06-28-2015, 05:12 PM

Here is a picture of a newer light for sale on ebay.

Gap red arrow. Is that ring very thin?So that what shows is what there is?
I will pry down as indicated to get the ring to begin lifting out of the light cowling.
Notice the additional screw..not on mine...

DavidG · 06-28-2015, 05:23 PM

Welded dash light socket brackets are commonly encountered on '33 closed cars and cabriolets and the larger brackets unique to phaetons and roadsters are usually attached with binding head screws.

As for removing the dome lamp lens retaining ring, have someone hold a blanket or something similar in terms of softness beneath the lamp while working on removing the retaining ring. Holding on to the lens and removing the ring is best done with three hands, but few of us have that advantage so have a second person catch the inevitable dropped lens to prevent its breakage.

DavidG · 06-28-2015, 05:28 PM

That's not a screw but rather a toggle switch (used on coupe dome lamps) and yes, that's the retaining ring being discussed herein. You need to lift it from the outside of the ring, not from the inside as suggested by the arrow in your photo. It has to clear the indentation in the lamp housing before an end can be lifted out.

06-27-2015, 05:16 PM	#2
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,079	Re: 33 dash light switch No grommet goes there. Is correct just like in photo #1 but with two small screws in through the little holes which screw into threaded holes in the switch mounting plate behind. The hole is large to enable the switch lever to swing left and right. Regards, Kevin.

06-27-2015, 05:24 PM	#3
Lawson Cox Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia Posts: 7,009	Re: 33 dash light switch That is an incorrect switch. The "lever" on the switch is round, same diameter from one end to the other. (If you care that much about originality. lol) __________________ Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer to the end, the faster it goes. It is better to be seen, than viewed. "We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm".

06-27-2015, 06:56 PM	#4
Doctor's Ford Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: South Dakota Posts: 405	Re: 33 dash light switch Yes koates, I now realize the hole size is intentionally large to permit moving the switch. Thanks Lawson for pointing out. I didn't know there are different lever shapes. Will certainly use the NOS one I have. Trying to be 100% "correct" is way beyond my capabilities ... and my wallet!

06-27-2015, 08:00 PM	#5
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: 33 dash light switch Manuel, My car has the original switch, The first time I switched the dash light came on for an instant then went out and never came on again. The switch began sticking so I removed it and took it apart got the switch operating smoothly again but my dash light never came on again! I think that many of these OLD cars are hunted! I don;t drink and think that, maybe I should start.

06-28-2015, 12:34 AM	#7
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,079	Re: 33 dash light switch Yes Lawson is correct about the switch shaft size but these switches were fitted to other car makes and non auto applications and are still made today new. I have some very old large size switch levers which I have removed from 1930s cars including fords. So the straight lever is correct but is the fat lever wrong ?? Regards, Kevin.

06-27-2015, 09:05 PM	#6
Lawson Cox Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia Posts: 7,009	Re: 33 dash light switch Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Did you check the bulb?? LOL __________________ Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer to the end, the faster it goes. It is better to be seen, than viewed. "We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm".

06-28-2015, 06:45 AM	#10
Lawson Cox Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia Posts: 7,009	Re: 33 dash light switch There is a snap ring that holds the lens in place on the 33-34's, __________________ Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer to the end, the faster it goes. It is better to be seen, than viewed. "We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm".

06-28-2015, 06:50 AM	#11
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,751	Re: 33 dash light switch The round split snap ring is just to the outside of the glass lens and inside the metal body. Carefully pry the ring out with small screw driver but be careful not to drop the glass lens.

06-28-2015, 02:25 PM	#14
Lawson Cox Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia Posts: 7,009	Re: 33 dash light switch You shouldn't crack the glass. Just don't drop it. LOL __________________ Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer to the end, the faster it goes. It is better to be seen, than viewed. "We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm".

06-28-2015, 05:23 PM	#19
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,102	Re: 33 dash light switch Welded dash light socket brackets are commonly encountered on '33 closed cars and cabriolets and the larger brackets unique to phaetons and roadsters are usually attached with binding head screws. As for removing the dome lamp lens retaining ring, have someone hold a blanket or something similar in terms of softness beneath the lamp while working on removing the retaining ring. Holding on to the lens and removing the ring is best done with three hands, but few of us have that advantage so have a second person catch the inevitable dropped lens to prevent its breakage.

06-28-2015, 05:28 PM	#20
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,102	Re: 33 dash light switch That's not a screw but rather a toggle switch (used on coupe dome lamps) and yes, that's the retaining ring being discussed herein. You need to lift it from the outside of the ring, not from the inside as suggested by the arrow in your photo. It has to clear the indentation in the lamp housing before an end can be lifted out.