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02-14-2012, 12:02 AM | #1 |
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Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Hey Guys....
Looking to build the sub structure to my cab and bed for my 1940 pickup. I was directed from some of you to Northern Classics Trucks website for the wood. See attached for pictures. http://www.northernclassictrucks.com..._wood_pics.htm I am not opposed to purchasing from them. Just want to get an idea if anyone has the sizing/.dimensions for the wood pieces. Anyone have pics of their projects they have done? Thanks for your time and help. |
02-14-2012, 11:00 AM | #2 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
The wood runs from the front of the cab to the riser in the frame in the back and the top of the wood stays on a near straight line. I got mine from NCT and it is perfect.
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02-15-2012, 10:48 PM | #3 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
I guess I would like to build my own like I have done with a lot of the truck. Just thought someone might have the dimensions
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02-16-2012, 06:04 AM | #4 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Hopeing to get my bed by this fall. 38-39-40/1 same bed wood/bed, I got my cab wood from Dick Spadaro. Looks like alot of labor/material vs ordering/shipping.
But then again I'm just a 2x4 guy Last edited by 39portlander; 02-16-2012 at 07:24 AM. |
02-16-2012, 07:31 AM | #5 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Just don't get the wood from Mac's, unless they have corrected it. What I got was totally wrong, so I got mine from Northern Classic trucks. it's so well amde and such a quality that I wouldn't spend my time making it. But that's my choice. You might get the satisfaction of doing it yourself and that's OK too!
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02-17-2012, 11:53 AM | #6 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
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02-17-2012, 12:37 PM | #7 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
I made up some mounts for my truck from steel, but I wouldn't mind having another go at making some out of wood. If some kind soul can help with the 4 dimensions shown on these two pics, I can wing the rest.. Might be helpful for 40fordpu too..
Thanks in advance. Mart. |
02-17-2012, 06:34 PM | #8 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Those are great pic's Mart. If you got a rear view would be great if you post that one as well. Motivates me to get going and get my bed
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02-18-2012, 04:40 AM | #9 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
The pics are from the Northern Classic Trucks page that is linked in one of the posts above.
Mart. |
02-22-2012, 02:27 AM | #10 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Mart. It so happens that I have the rear wood still attached to my bed. I will measure this weekend and get back to you. The front should be close???? What kind of wood would best be used. I want it to last, be sturdy and safe.
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02-25-2012, 09:35 PM | #11 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
I was looking for the same information. It doesn't look too hard to make.
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02-25-2012, 09:51 PM | #12 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
40fordpu have you checked your private messages?
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02-25-2012, 10:58 PM | #13 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Mart here is what I found...I have only the wood of your second picture. ***Disclaimer - This is what is connected to my bed but doesnt mean that it is correct*** The overall length of the long piece is 45 and 3/4 inches. The shorter two pieces are 5 inches and start three inches from each end. The two pieces of would seem to be 2 and 7/8 inches by 1 and 3/4 inches. A typical 2X4's actual size is 1.5X3.5 inches. Therefore, you would have to by a bigger piece of wood and do a lot of cutting which is doable. I am probably going to do it. One thing I noticed is that the smaller pieces had two holes. One that attached to the frame and the other that must have been designed to get a screw up it to secure the two pieces. Check out the pics
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02-26-2012, 03:41 PM | #14 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Going by the arrows that you drew on your pictures the front and rear crosspieces are 3" high. The front cross piece end block is 6 3/4" high. The rear cross piece end block is 6 1/4" high. My bed came from Mack Hil in MO. The yahoos that tried to restore my truck put the kit together, but threw away or lost the front pieces that lie on top of the frame rail. Until I saw your picture, I had no idea how the bed mounted in the front. I would guess that Henry had painted all wood black to seal out the moisture. It looks better stained and urethane top coated. Hope I have been some help to you.
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02-26-2012, 09:49 PM | #15 | |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Quote:
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03-01-2012, 01:24 AM | #16 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Anyone verify the measurements?
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03-02-2012, 07:23 PM | #17 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Anyone?
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03-02-2012, 09:53 PM | #18 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Did you want something other than what I gave you?
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03-03-2012, 08:31 AM | #19 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
I could have sworn I posted a thank you for getting those dimensions - anyway thanks again.
Mart. |
03-06-2012, 12:41 AM | #20 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
What about the quality of wood? What kind of wood is it?
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03-06-2012, 03:00 PM | #21 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Oak, ash, maple or any hard wood that you can find.
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03-11-2012, 02:47 PM | #22 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Thanks for the reply. Talked to a carpenter friend of mine and had him look at the pics. He said the same thing regarding the wood. He said the joint for the cab is called a finger joint. Said it is not hard to do and should practice on some cheap wood to get it perfect before trying on the expensive stuff.
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03-11-2012, 05:59 PM | #23 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
The finger joint may not be that easy to the inexperienced beside's being a very intimadating set up (loud & dangerous & can give a hell of a kick back) it must be done correctly to be safe. A decent bit plus the cost of the wood may be pricey......just my 50 year experienced opinion.....but there will be 50 other opinions also. Does it really have to be finger jointed......doweled is also a good joint selection this wood does nothing at all to require strucual integrity, doesnt move or require lateral support it merely is a spacer & holds weight its bolted in position & will not ever move again im milling my own & have the finger joint bits but will do dowels instead ( using tightbond 11 glue)......finger joint is overkill.
Selection of wood. the density of ash 37.4 lb/cu. ft., red oak is 39.3 lbs/cu. ft., white oak 42.4 lbs cu/ft. so if the weight/density of these species means anything here.....weight bearing/support is the answer.....it makes sense to use white oak opposed to say sugar pine that will rot/compress @ 23.7 lbs/cu ft. Also, if my memory serves me correctly HARD/rock maple was 46 lbs/cu.ft=better than white oak but over kill again for the weight it will be bearing, anyway, i wouldnt use any species unless cabinet grade 6-8% moisture content. In another thread? somone made the comment concerning 1/16"-1/8" in thickness will throw off aligning the front end sheetmetal considerably & the shrinkage that wood has between green/air dried and kiln dried cabinet grade is a considerable difference to do exactly that. If you are anal about any of your work id apply 6 - 8 coats of marine varnish, polyurathane or even automotive urathane, yes automotive, i did a whole wood bed in it looked great for the 3 years i owned it it has the best UV protectent, good luck to all Last edited by macs67; 03-11-2012 at 09:47 PM. Reason: additional wording to fr.end line 17..... sheetmetal |
03-11-2012, 10:14 PM | #24 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Thanks for the awesome response.
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07-26-2013, 07:27 AM | #25 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Does anybody have pattern for the cab wood spacer's for a '40 ford p/u truck?
Thanks, Kelly |
09-13-2013, 08:37 AM | #26 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
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05-13-2018, 10:21 AM | #27 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Hello out there, has anyone used a rubber mount system, something like the mounting for the front motor mounts, to mount there cab on a 40 pickup. Any help will be appreciated. Roundbill
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05-13-2018, 12:27 PM | #28 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
The finger joint is not a part of the wood doing it's job. I'm no woodworker and was able to make perfectly adequate wooden support pieces for two 41 PUs. If you need authenticity, you may want them finger jointed, but it is not necessary at all. Ford probably finger jointed them because they already had the necessary tooling to hand. It's also hard to see the wooden cab supports when in place.
No comment on the rubber supports idea, the wood works ok. The cab is flexibly mounted on the 4 corner bolting positions, using springs. Mart. |
05-13-2018, 12:37 PM | #29 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Rubber mounting would be too soft and flexible. It would be very difficult to keep your sheetmetal aligned. The correct front and back mounting bolts with the springs on the bolts will create all the flex you need for the cab.
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04-15-2019, 11:11 AM | #30 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Can someone give me an idea how the springs come into play? I have just purchased new cab and bed wood but not bolt kits yet. Thanks
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04-15-2019, 11:43 AM | #31 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Imagine a farmer in the 1940s driving on undulating tracks with lots of deep hollows (like smooth potholes) the frame twisting from one side to the other continually. The springs are there so not all of that frame twisting gets channelled into the cab. It saves tearing the floor out of the cab by fatigue.
That's why the tank is mounted on three bolts, the one side has a spring so the frame flexing does not tear the tank apart. Mart. |
04-15-2019, 01:07 PM | #32 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Awesome Mart, That clears up the why part of my question. Can you tell me how the springs are situated on the bolts? Do they go in between the cab and the mounting wood?
Red
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04-15-2019, 01:33 PM | #33 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
No, Red, then bolts drop down through the cab floor, the wood and the frame, then the spring goes on, a washer, and the nut.
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04-15-2019, 01:35 PM | #34 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Ok, Got it. On the bottom of the frame. Thanks for the info.
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04-15-2019, 01:49 PM | #35 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
Actually the above is correct for the rear ones, the front ones also get a wedge shaped spacer between the frame and the spring.
(I think.. All this is from memory) |
04-15-2019, 11:15 PM | #36 |
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Re: Bed/Cab Mounting Frame
mart correct, we forget how much a frame flexes under load. They all do. Why a radiator and motor is not bolted tight to frame either. Radiator springs go under the frame, not the top like a shock. 38 trucks had spring under all 3 gas tank bolts.
I was lucky enough to have a nonmessed up truck, so I reused the steel wedges and whatever I could save. Bed on a 38 has no springs under it. Just the cab. There is webbing on top/bottom of the wood. You could substitute the original springs with valve springs but not the same totally (bit smaller diameter spring). Springs create a system of flex, Reason for castle nuts and cotter pins. What I couldn't save, I acquired here http://fordscript.com/ Last edited by Tinker; 04-15-2019 at 11:39 PM. |
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