exaust leak

[maxandmickey]

Hi guys, have a leak right right where exaust and muffler is clamped.cant seem to stop it at all.has anyone had any luck with this pesky problem. I am from just outside of bufflo ny.anybody on here from this area? Thank you everyone.

[Mitch//pa]

i always use the insert pipe with a new clamp and never had a leak.
ck your flange for any cracks and reinstall the tailpipe hanger last

[H. L. Chauvin]

Just one experience.

There is a very strong possibility that the angle of the flange on your muffler is not at all at the same angle as the flange on your manifold.

This was a very common problem with many later aftermarket Model A mufflers.

Also, the "vertical" angle of the muffler has to be positioned, (both ways), such that it aligns with the "vertical" part of the manifold, to insure that the two (2) meeting flanges are almost perfectly concentrically aligned.

In the past, I have had success with lightly supporting the rear of the muffler, then adjusting the rear of tail pipe until it "appeared" to almost be perfectly "vertically" aligned, (both ways), with the vertical part of the exhaust manifold.

Then tighten the clamp; and lastly, install & tighten the rear muffler tail pipe support.

If you ever wonder "if" this joint ever worked, I now have an Aries SS muffler with a new matching exhaust & intake manifold installed on the block with gland rings, & this joint is very well sealed with no whistling noises & no odors.

One can immediately notice that Aries, being far more careful & concerned, insured that they have the correct muffler angle & flange angle.

[sphanna]

I know several will not like this, but I have found a solution that seems to always work for me. I do not use the exhaust sleeve. I use a strip of aluminum foil from my wife's stash. I fold it about four times and wrap it around where the exhaust manifold and muffler meet. Then install the clamp. I also check the tightness of the nuts from time to time as they seem to loosen because of the heat/cool cycles.

[sphanna]

Also, I use a bottle jack to hold the muffler snug while I wrap the foil and install the clamp.

[rob63mess]

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I used the sleeve and the copper based sealant.....did the trick for me

[Brentwood Bob]

for me a floor jack under the front pipe from the flange to the muffler holds the muffler assembly in the correct position to install the clamp.
I was taught to then use a small ball pean hammer to frequently lightly tap the clamp assembly to seat it as the clamp is tightened. Use brass nuts with the clamp bolts.
I have also used a larger ball pean to reform the flange on a poor fitting pipe off the car.

[Cool Hand Lurker]

I use the insert pipe section plus a gasket made from wood stove door rope gasket. When everything is clamped together the rope seals it up very well. No noise, no leaks.

[1crosscut]

Like Brentwood Bob I use a floor jack to raise the muffler up until it contacts the exhaust manifold. Adjust until you have it lined up perfectly. Carefully lower the jack just enough to allow you to put an even coat of the paste muffler sealant on the flange of the muffler pipe. Carefully raise the jack/muffler back into place and clamp securely. Make sure your muffler clamp is on with the correct side up. Allow to cure and you should be leak free for a loooong time.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Lurker

I use the insert pipe section plus a gasket made from wood stove door rope gasket. When everything is clamped together the rope seals it up very well. No noise, no leaks.

If I have trouble making up my joint (never had) I would go this way as my next resort.

Joe K

[pat in Santa Cruz]

the pipe insert decreases the diameter of the exhaust pipe, increasing back pressure. If you are running one of the cheaper repop mufflers, which already restrict the flow and increase back pressure, you are adding to the problem, which reduces horsepower and eventually contributes to burnt ex. valves in #4 cylinder. The right solution is to use a muffler that follows the original engineering design for a Model A. If you are using a Ford Blueprint muffler and it's not fitting, you're manifold is probably sagging.

[mhsprecher]

Good tips, here. I have an ongoing problem with this on my town sedan. I redo it and after about 50 miles, it is leaking again. I put in a new clamp, but I think it is the combination of a poor repro muffler and exhaust manifold sag. I will try some of these tips, although the point about the inserts increasing back pressure makes some sense, but how big an issue is this?

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by mhsprecher

Good tips, here. I have an ongoing problem with this on my town sedan. I redo it and after about 50 miles, it is leaking again. I put in a new clamp, but I think it is the combination of a poor repro muffler and exhaust manifold sag. I will try some of these tips, although the point about the inserts increasing back pressure makes some sense, but how big an issue is this?

that comes up everytime the sleeve is mentioned do a search "exhaust leak"...
its not an issue and does not create back pressure.. the sleeve is as thick as an exhaust pipe and fits tightly inside both ends... its no different from a pipe going into a muffler on other style systems..
use the sleeve with no gasket just a good clamp and it will work and not create any problems

[Mark in MT]

A little high temperature "Ultra Copper" RTV sealant on the mating surface will stop any exhaust leaks. 15 years and 30,000 miles on my GTO and still no leaks, the extruded bits are still flexible. And that puppy gets hot.

[Ronnie Lawson]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Just one experience.

There is a very strong possibility that the angle of the flange on your muffler is not at all at the same angle as the flange on your manifold.

This was a very common problem with many later aftermarket Model A mufflers.

Also, the "vertical" angle of the muffler has to be positioned, (both ways), such that it aligns with the "vertical" part of the manifold, to insure that the two (2) meeting flanges are almost perfectly concentrically aligned.

In the past, I have had success with lightly supporting the rear of the muffler, then adjusting the rear of tail pipe until it "appeared" to almost be perfectly "vertically" aligned, (both ways), with the vertical part of the exhaust manifold.

Then tighten the clamp; and lastly, install & tighten the rear muffler tail pipe support.

If you ever wonder "if" this joint ever worked, I now have an Aries SS muffler with a new matching exhaust & intake manifold installed on the block with gland rings, & this joint is very well sealed with no whistling noises & no odors.

One can immediately notice that Aries, being far more careful & concerned, insured that they have the correct muffler angle & flange angle.

Attachment 202368
The Angle of the flange is on a compound angle see view from original print.
I have corrected many over the years by putting front pipe in the fork of a tree an adding or taking away bend to meet the exhaust flange.

[montanafordman]

Originally Posted by Mark in MT

A little high temperature "Ultra Copper" RTV sealant on the mating surface will stop any exhaust leaks. 15 years and 30,000 miles on my GTO and still no leaks, the extruded bits are still flexible. And that puppy gets hot.

Thats what I did, coupled with having the rear hanger very loose and supporting the front with a jack while I lined it up and tightened the manifold clamp. Give the manifold clamp a couple raps with a hammer and the bolts will snug up a little more, be sure to tighten both bolts evenly. That worked well for me. Last step is to tighten the rear hanger just enough to install the cotter pin to allow the muffler assembly to expand and contract with heating and cooling.

[Tom Endy]

Bratton's sells a product called muffler cement in a tube, part number 7050, $3.10. I squeeze a thick bead into the "V" groove on each side of the muffler clamp. When the clamp is installed it squeezes a good portion of it out that is easily cleaned off. When it dries it forms a good seal. I don't use anything else and have had very good luck with this process. It is important that you take care to orient the clamp so that it is installed correctly.

If at a later date you have reason to remove the clamp, the seal material is easily cleaned off with a wire wheel.

Tom Endy