Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Early V8 (1932-53)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-19-2021, 04:19 PM   #21
rotorwrench
Senior Member
 
rotorwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,371
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

Your power hammer did as good a job as a Pullmax. I can't see how it's made but it is certainly working well for you.
rotorwrench is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2021, 03:10 PM   #22
Jeff/Illinois
Senior Member
 
Jeff/Illinois's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,787
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

Wow that is cool, I admire your skill
Jeff/Illinois is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 01-21-2021, 06:42 PM   #23
OldGold360
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 639
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

Thanks for the kind words. I’ll share some more progress as time allows.
OldGold360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2021, 10:07 PM   #24
29A
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: PEYTON CO
Posts: 12
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

Just saw this thread, very impressive metal shaping. Your welds are pretty long did you have any trouble with warping? Are you going to make the cab corners also ?
29A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2021, 12:40 AM   #25
OldGold360
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 639
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

Quote:
Originally Posted by 29A View Post
Just saw this thread, very impressive metal shaping. Your welds are pretty long did you have any trouble with warping? Are you going to make the cab corners also ?
Thank you. Everything is TIG welded and I try to weld as long and fast as possible. Naturally the metal moves and shrinks when heat is applied, but I correct it as I go with hammer and dolly, stretching the weld back out and making sure everything is as it should be before I continue with the next weld. Sometimes I’ll follow up with a planishing hammer if I really want to flatten the weld. I will most likely make the cab corners since they’re not available and what’s left of mine isn’t worth saving.
OldGold360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2021, 05:41 PM   #26
Zeke3
Senior Member
 
Zeke3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 1,401
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
OldGold, what are you using for filler rod for welding sheet metal? Thanks for all the beautiful work, I am looking forward to the cab corners you come up with.
Zeke3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2021, 06:18 PM   #27
OldGold360
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 639
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

I used .045” ER70s-2 filler rod. Gap between panels is tight. I push the puddle and not much filler rod is used. Being a small TIG weld, this allows me to flatten the weld and stretch the shrunk metal simultaneously. I’ve used smaller filler rod from my 110v mig wire, but the .045” is readily available and I get good results with it.

I’m still hoping to come up with some cab corners. I don’t have much time to work on my pickup so buying some would move me along faster. Thanks
OldGold360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2021, 06:30 PM   #28
Zeke3
Senior Member
 
Zeke3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 1,401
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

I wondered if you might be using some softer wire, like RG45, thanks for the information.
Zeke3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2021, 11:14 AM   #29
rotorwrench
Senior Member
 
rotorwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,371
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

The RG45 is a lot easier to work. The ER70 stuff is pretty hard. It has to be to survive the wire feeders. A tight joint won't need much filler though. A lot depends on the gauge thickness of the metal.
rotorwrench is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2021, 12:10 PM   #30
OldGold360
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 639
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

I do not like RG45 rod for TIG welding. It is a rod more intended for O/A welding anyways. I have used ER70 for 20+ years. When TIG welded, it is plenty soft enough to flatten the weld by hand and effortless when smoothing the weld via planishing hammer or power hammer. So many people these days are looking for alternative filler rods that result in softer, more malleable welds or welds that grind easier rather than learning better techniques. A good sheetmetal TIG weld will require very little welding, if any at all.
OldGold360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2021, 12:57 PM   #31
r_reed
Senior Member
 
r_reed's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: east glenville NY
Posts: 158
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

great post, i enjoy seeing how this work is done. wouldn't tackle it myself, i have great respect for metal shapers.
__________________
1949 F-1 Flatrod II (flat paint, flat motor)
Keeping one more flathead alive
It smoked, but gave it up 7/26/2013
East Glenville NY
r_reed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2021, 06:20 AM   #32
vilanar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 162
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

I´m using 0,032 Mig wire when Tig-welding sheetmetal and like OldGold said not too much of work after welding . I was wondering what kind of plastic wire did you use when you 3D printed those dies ? How do they hold together with CR steel ? And what kind of program you used ? I'm not familiar with 3D and was thinking is that something worth learning....
well, new skills are always worth learning....
vilanar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2021, 05:02 PM   #33
OldGold360
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 639
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

Quote:
Originally Posted by vilanar View Post
I´m using 0,032 Mig wire when Tig-welding sheetmetal and like OldGold said not too much of work after welding . I was wondering what kind of plastic wire did you use when you 3D printed those dies ? How do they hold together with CR steel ? And what kind of program you used ? I'm not familiar with 3D and was thinking is that something worth learning....
well, new skills are always worth learning....

I used PLA filament just because that is all I have but there are better choices that would hold up better, such as ABS. The PLA worked fine but any sharp details are lost after a few pieces are made. Since I just needed one, it worked fine. I have some repairs to make on my fenders and will make the pullmax tooling from steel or aluminum to retain the sharpness present in the outer bead. I got my 3D printer about a year ago and don’t regret it. It’s been great for quick tooling, prototyping, shop organization, toys for the kids, etc. I use SolidWorks or Fusion360 for modeling. Fusion360 is really easy to take from drawing to 3D print. I’ve been looking for foundry that is willing to do lost PLA castings in steel and aluminum. This will really make the printer worthwhile to me.
OldGold360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2021, 01:25 AM   #34
vilanar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 162
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

Thanks for the response. I thought also that with steel the life of the die will be limited. I work a lot with alu, so with that they should hold better. I have made some dies out of POM
and it works great with alu. Making Pullmax tooling out of steel with milling machine and grinders is time consuming task , but they last long time even without hardening.
That foundry thing would be awesome...
vilanar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2021, 02:06 AM   #35
OldGold360
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 639
Default Re: 1936 P/U Metalshaping

Quote:
Originally Posted by vilanar View Post
Thanks for the response. I thought also that with steel the life of the die will be limited. I work a lot with alu, so with that they should hold better. I have made some dies out of POM
and it works great with alu. Making Pullmax tooling out of steel with milling machine and grinders is time consuming task , but they last long time even without hardening.
That foundry thing would be awesome...
Yeah, I really don’t like to make pullmax tooling out of metal because they do take a bit of time. It’s nice taking 10 minutes and program some dies and then let the 3D printer do all the work. I need to take some time and learn more about filaments because there might be a better choice for die material. I do have a cnc plasma and that saves on time, but profiling the lead in/out and clean up still takes more time than I’d like to spend. I’m always looking for ways to speed things up.
OldGold360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:49 AM.