Is this bearing reusable

[Res731]

Attached is a picture of the bearing that runs in the front of the torque tube. I read that the repro’s are not that good and to use the original if possible. There is a bit of putting on the one roller but otherwise it appears fine.
Should I replace it?

Rudy

[Will N]

I would not use any bearing that has any amount of pitting on it.

[Hicktick]

A bad spot on a bearing is like chicken pox , today you only have one spot but day after tomorrow it will multiply . ,.,



,.,

[Joe K]

I would go with the repop. The bearing is not heavily loaded (basically the angular forces resulting from the universal) and serves merely to center the shaft in the torque tube.

Torrington would be the name I would look for in a replacement. Made in America by the people that Ford used, and basically pioneered needle bearings for the world. I'm not sure they're available, but would be surprised if they are not.

Torrington is up there in my book along with Timken.

Joe K

[rocket1]

Counterman at brg. Supply said most come from china unless n.o.s.

[Joe K]

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Originally Posted by rocket1

Counterman at brg. Supply said most come from china unless n.o.s.

This true of most anything.

Briggs & Stratton sells a variety of repair parts for their small engines. Almost to a component, these are made in China to American standards. A replacement carburetor - made in China for my roto-tiller - costs about $90 when bought through B&S.

Meanwhile, out on Ebay, one can find a visually IDENTICAL carburetor being sold as replacement for B&S part number XXXX, and selling for $12.89 DELIVERED.

The difference between these two carburetors is primarily conformance to the design standard. Or - better - assurance that a design standard was upheld. I.e. both "quality."

This is the conundrum which China presents - one can buy top of the line Chinese goods made to whatever standard one desires, or one can buy something identical - but how does one REALLY know how identical?

By paying extra for the name-brand standard it is very likely one has nearly all the original design standard kept intact. I say likely, can one ever really know? It might be an easy substitute to say "lets make this shaft out of 1020 steel rather than the specified 1040."

Now go buy a Tecumseh carburetor - the original design standard does not exist, except for the traces left over from those who sub-contracted work for Tecumseh while they existed. So the jury is even further out of hearing of the judge on that one.

End of the carburetor story: Being frugal, I bought the $12.89 carburetor and had it delivered. Attempting to make it work on the roto-tiller, I was flummoxed by the inconsistency of the carburetor - one moment it would run rich and the next it would stall on lack of gas. Disassembling the new carburetor, I found one of the adjustment needles not in alignment with its metering orifice - instead it was bent off to the side providing no adjustment whatsoever. Re-assembling, I made the carburetor work the same as the original. I.e. the issue was an "assembly quality" issue.

I was pleased enough to buy a SECOND Chinese carburetor - to be kept as a spare in case I clobber the carburetor on a fencepost during a turn as I had before.

So one never knows. Quality from non-name-brand Chinese is certainly hit or miss. A bit less so from American branded Chinese product.

Joe K

[Jim Brierley]

If you drive very few miles, like most A'ers do, your present bearing will be fine. Those pits are lower than the rest of the bearing surface, so will not contact the shaft or race and like Joe K says, the load is light.

[Synchro909]

I wouldn't like to have to walk as far as that bearing will take you. That said, if fitting a new one makes you feel more comfortable, go for it. Peace of mind counts too.

[Rich in Tucson]

I would reuse that or every original I found like that in a nanosecond. That goes for original rear wheel bearings too. Keep water out of your grease (for example, don't use original Mobil 600w steam cylinder oil in your transmission etc., (it is hydrophilic) use a mineral oil if you live anywhere with high humidity) and your chicken pox won't spread.

[GPierce]

I know the desire to use original parts but these won't get re-installed
Do all of the vendors get their rear wheel bearings from the same manufacturer?
I need a recommendation for purchasing two new rear wheel bearings.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by GPierce

I know the desire to use original parts but these won't get re-installed
Do all of the vendors get their rear wheel bearings from the same manufacturer?
I need a recommendation for purchasing two new rear wheel bearings.

If you can buy Hyatt, that would be the name.



Joe K

[mike657894]

I would run it. When I redid my 78 chevy 4x4 front axle because the ball joints were gone. I bought all the wear parts but was tight on cash. $150 for china $600 for stock. found pitting like that on a few of the front wheel bearing rollers. Chose to reuse the stock timkens over the china's I bought. 10,000 miles later Im glad I threw the chineese in the glove box.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by GPierce

I know the desire to use original parts but these won't get re-installed
Do all of the vendors get their rear wheel bearings from the same manufacturer?
I need a recommendation for purchasing two new rear wheel bearings.

A friend of mine (and fellow barner) won't use the original rear wheel bearings repro or original. He substitutes new, modern bearings and has had no trouble in his P/U which is used as intended - a workhorse carrying loads all over town.
IMO, there is too much emphasis on "keep it original" amongst Model Aers. There have been MANY advances made over the past 90+ years and unless you are restoring a car for judging, I think it foolish to ignor that. If you intend driving the wheels off your car as I do, modern is often better and more easily found these days if you need them.
For expample, I was in an outback town a couple of years ago when the coil decided this is where it wanted to be buried. I was surprised that there was a spare parts shop in such a small town. They had a 12v coil on the shelf. How long would I have had to wait for a 6 volt one? I spend a little time and convert my water pumps to a ceramic seal and sealed bearings. Never had to repair one but wore out a few of the original style ones before I decided to give up on the original design.

[F.M.]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

A friend of mine (and fellow barner) won't use the original rear wheel bearings repro or original. He substitutes new, modern bearings and has had no trouble in his P/U which is used as intended - a workhorse carrying loads all over town.
IMO, there is too much emphasis on "keep it original" amongst Model Aers. There have been MANY advances made over the past 90+ years and unless you are restoring a car for judging, I think it foolish to ignor that. If you intend driving the wheels off your car as I do, modern is often better and more easily found these days if you need them.
For expample, I was in an outback town a couple of years ago when the coil decided this is where it wanted to be buried. I was surprised that there was a spare parts shop in such a small town. They had a 12v coil on the shelf. How long would I have had to wait for a 6 volt one? I spend a little time and convert my water pumps to a ceramic seal and sealed bearings. Never had to repair one but wore out a few of the original style ones before I decided to give up on the original design.

Not to long a wait if one was under your seat !!..

[Railcarmover]

Modifying the model a with modern parts makes sense..technology has come along way in 90 plus years.Mr Ford was an innovator,he designed the highest quality car he could at an affordable price,there is no doubt Ford engineering would have used modern techniques if they were available..take anaerobic sealant (loctite) for instance..the ability to permanently lock a torque value without the labor or potential assembly failure of the cotter pin.. the list goes on and on, better technology,better systems,to make a model a viable on today's roads..yet still be a model a..

[mike657894]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

A friend of mine (and fellow barner) won't use the original rear wheel bearings repro or original. He substitutes new, modern bearings and has had no trouble in his P/U which is used as intended - a workhorse carrying loads all over town.
IMO, there is too much emphasis on "keep it original" amongst Model Aers. There have been MANY advances made over the past 90+ years and unless you are restoring a car for judging, I think it foolish to ignor that. If you intend driving the wheels off your car as I do, modern is often better and more easily found these days if you need them.
For expample, I was in an outback town a couple of years ago when the coil decided this is where it wanted to be buried. I was surprised that there was a spare parts shop in such a small town. They had a 12v coil on the shelf. How long would I have had to wait for a 6 volt one? I spend a little time and convert my water pumps to a ceramic seal and sealed bearings. Never had to repair one but wore out a few of the original style ones before I decided to give up on the original design.

Do you know the part number and brand of the matching bearing? It would help a fella up thread. Also I would drop it in my "for later file" I could figure it out if I had one to measure up. That research does take time and effort though. And for others it may be beyond their part finding abilities. Also any other modern high quality bearing/part matches would be great.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by mike657894

Do you know the part number and brand of the matching bearing? It would help a fella up thread. Also I would drop it in my "for later file" I could figure it out if I had one to measure up. That research does take time and effort though. And for others it may be beyond their part finding abilities. Also any other modern high quality bearing/part matches would be great.

Check your PMs, Mike.

[mike657894]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Check your PMs, Mike.

I have not received your message synchro.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by mike657894

Do you know the part number and brand of the matching bearing? It would help a fella up thread. Also I would drop it in my "for later file" I could figure it out if I had one to measure up. That research does take time and effort though. And for others it may be beyond their part finding abilities. Also any other modern high quality bearing/part matches would be great.

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Check your PMs, Mike.

Why keep a secret if you can help other members?

[mike657894]

found this list. I havnet found them for sale anywhere yet. I only searched the timken/bower number
http://jmodela.coffeecup.com/bearings.html