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12-17-2015, 02:22 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Kuranda, Queensland Australia
Posts: 186
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Steering Wheel question
I am in the process of fixing up the light switch etc on a 1928 35A. I have a switch rod that measures 44.5" that seems correct for the date and teeth of the car. When I try to tamp down the steering wheel on the splines (after cleaning out all the gunk, and then put on the steering wheel nut it only seems to want to tighten about half way into the nut before I can go no further. Logic tells me that this cannot be correct. When I insert the rod the horn tip at the end barely protudes from the steering box assembly - clearly affixing the switch wont be able to happen.
This is a reproduction steering wheel - but has been on the car for some time. The light switch rod etc was removed eons ago as the vehicle was just a runabout. The thread was only half way up the nut before I took it off as well. I have cleaned as much as I can of the splines as well as the inside of the wheel. Question - how far down on the shaft should the steering wheel sit? Should the nut have thread fully through it for proper fitting? Any suggestions on the way forward to get the wheel fitted properly and the light switch installed and working? Thanks John |
12-17-2015, 07:52 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Van, Texas
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Re: Steering Wheel question
Steering Wheel should fit far enough down for the Nut to thread down until the top of the threads are flush with the top of the nut. Try installing the Nut without the Wheel and see if it threads until flush. You may have a bad Threead issue which means the threads may need chased.
If the Wheeel will not go far enough down for the nut to thread on flush you have a Wheel to Splines problem. In which case the Splines in the Wheel need to be files VERY CAREFULLY. |
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12-17-2015, 05:04 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,244
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Re: Steering Wheel question
Do not chase the threads.
They are brittle and you will ruin the shaft. There are different length horn rods. determine which you should use, sounds like the rod is short. Replacement horn rods like to bind and need to be sanded at the upper end of the horn rod until the rod is not binding. Bob |
12-17-2015, 05:23 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Kuranda, Queensland Australia
Posts: 186
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Re: Steering Wheel question
#2 - the nut fits as it should with the wheel off - so I guess I need to look at fine filing the splines. With the measuring of the horn rod; is the measurement taken of the actual rod to the base of the switch or is it the overall length of rod and switch?
Cheers |
12-17-2015, 07:56 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
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Re: Steering Wheel question
One of the parts house catalogs show the rod lengths. I believe it is the length of the rod from the base of the horn button end to the other end of the rod.
Fit the splines to the shaft first, then see where you are with the rod that you have. |
12-17-2015, 09:27 PM | #6 |
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Re: Steering Wheel question
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Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. Last edited by 700rpm; 12-18-2015 at 12:29 PM. |
12-18-2015, 01:20 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
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Re: Steering Wheel question
bratton's has the comparison between horn rods, and how to measure them. PM me if you don't have the catalog down your way. and I will copy down the description for you and the various lengths. There were 3 listed for the 28-9 years.
The 28-9 replacement horn rods are mentioned, and instead of sanding down the upper part of the rod Bratton's opens up the diameter of the shaft to freeup the rod. Sounds like you have one of these reproduction horn rods. |
12-18-2015, 01:48 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Re: Steering Wheel question
Of course, I learned this the hard way.
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