The Ford Barn

JohninKuranda · 02-12-2016, 04:13 AM

Well, my car won't start but I know the reason why. It has been covered in so many threads before.

I have a problem with grounding in the distributor.

Yes, my points are open, and yes, I know to screw out the reproduction ignition cable.

Problem is that the cable only ceases grounding when I have about a half turn left. This is of course problematic and not satisfactory.

I have a replacement cable winging its way to me but I was wondering if anything can be done to correct the problem with the cable I have. Tomorrow is a tinkering day and I have little else to do (other than domestic chores

).

In all those other threads the problem was identified and a solution was suggested - ie screw the cable in only 1 or 2 turns, but I could not find any mention of being able to repair the cable or to modify the cable to prevent the grounding. Is this indeed possible? Has anyone attempted it?

Thanks
John

gweilbaker · 02-12-2016, 06:58 AM

Hi John,
Some of the problem may also be with the weak bus bar of the lower plate that the conductor of the cable contacts, if the cable is threaded in too far, it deflects the bus bar into the housing. I had this happen to me.

Glen

Mitch//pa · 02-12-2016, 08:12 AM

The cable does not need to be grounded.... It's just a housing for the inner wire to make contact on the buss bar. As Glen mentioned if it is screwed in to far it pushes on the buss bar and grounds it on the distributor housing. There is usually nothing wrong with the cable unless it has an internal short to ground...you can run a jumper wire in place of the cable or ohm test it to prove it out

George Miller · 02-12-2016, 08:14 AM

I think it is the lower plate more than the cable. Is there room to put a pice of rubber behind the clip on the lower plate to stop the ground.

Tom Wesenberg · 02-12-2016, 09:16 AM

You need to determine if the problem is inside the distributor, or in the cable.

I've seen repro lower plates that are much thinner metal than the originals, and this can lead to bending and shorting to ground.

I've seen frayed wires inside the cable, so when the spring loaded brass contact is pushed back it shorts to ground. I use an ohm meter and connect to the brass button and the outside of the cable. Be sure the switch is ON because originals connect the brass contact to ground when in the OFF position. I then push the brass contact in and out and also flex the cable. At no time should there be contact to ground.

If the wire shows continuity to ground, then remove the inner wire and install a new one.

P.S. · 02-12-2016, 09:38 AM

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Might also check and make sure that little fiber washer is in place on the part where the screw for the condenser goes. If that washer is missing on the repro part, then any pressure from the ignition cable will ground out that lower contact bar.

Tom Wesenberg · 02-12-2016, 12:32 PM

Plus if that fiber washer is missing the screw might bottom out in the condenser before the condenser is tight to the lower plate. This can cause the condenser terminal to spin and ruin the condenser.

02-12-2016, 04:13 AM	#1
JohninKuranda Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Kuranda, Queensland Australia Posts: 186	No, this is not another "My car won't start" thread.... Well, my car won't start but I know the reason why. It has been covered in so many threads before. I have a problem with grounding in the distributor. Yes, my points are open, and yes, I know to screw out the reproduction ignition cable. Problem is that the cable only ceases grounding when I have about a half turn left. This is of course problematic and not satisfactory. I have a replacement cable winging its way to me but I was wondering if anything can be done to correct the problem with the cable I have. Tomorrow is a tinkering day and I have little else to do (other than domestic chores ). In all those other threads the problem was identified and a solution was suggested - ie screw the cable in only 1 or 2 turns, but I could not find any mention of being able to repair the cable or to modify the cable to prevent the grounding. Is this indeed possible? Has anyone attempted it? Thanks John

02-12-2016, 06:58 AM	#2
gweilbaker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lindenhurst, IL Posts: 792	Re: No, this is not another "My car won't start" thread.... Hi John, Some of the problem may also be with the weak bus bar of the lower plate that the conductor of the cable contacts, if the cable is threaded in too far, it deflects the bus bar into the housing. I had this happen to me. Glen

02-12-2016, 08:12 AM	#3
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: No, this is not another "My car won't start" thread.... The cable does not need to be grounded.... It's just a housing for the inner wire to make contact on the buss bar. As Glen mentioned if it is screwed in to far it pushes on the buss bar and grounds it on the distributor housing. There is usually nothing wrong with the cable unless it has an internal short to ground...you can run a jumper wire in place of the cable or ohm test it to prove it out Last edited by Mitch//pa; 02-12-2016 at 09:49 AM.

02-12-2016, 08:14 AM	#4
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: No, this is not another "My car won't start" thread.... I think it is the lower plate more than the cable. Is there room to put a pice of rubber behind the clip on the lower plate to stop the ground.

02-12-2016, 09:16 AM	#5
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: No, this is not another "My car won't start" thread.... You need to determine if the problem is inside the distributor, or in the cable. I've seen repro lower plates that are much thinner metal than the originals, and this can lead to bending and shorting to ground. I've seen frayed wires inside the cable, so when the spring loaded brass contact is pushed back it shorts to ground. I use an ohm meter and connect to the brass button and the outside of the cable. Be sure the switch is ON because originals connect the brass contact to ground when in the OFF position. I then push the brass contact in and out and also flex the cable. At no time should there be contact to ground. If the wire shows continuity to ground, then remove the inner wire and install a new one.

02-12-2016, 09:38 AM	#6
P.S. Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: California Posts: 1,688	Re: No, this is not another "My car won't start" thread.... Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Might also check and make sure that little fiber washer is in place on the part where the screw for the condenser goes. If that washer is missing on the repro part, then any pressure from the ignition cable will ground out that lower contact bar.

02-12-2016, 12:32 PM	#7
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: No, this is not another "My car won't start" thread.... Plus if that fiber washer is missing the screw might bottom out in the condenser before the condenser is tight to the lower plate. This can cause the condenser terminal to spin and ruin the condenser.