1936 Pickup bed floor question

[OldGold360]

Hello,
I am seeking some help regarding the steel bed floor for my '36 pickup. I am in the process of rebuilding the bed and looking at the new steel bed floors that are sold thru Macs. In their illustration of the bed floor it shows two bumps on each side of the panel (see picture). My original bed floor does not have these.

Can someone explain why this is? Is this the wrong bed floor for my pickup?

Thanks

*Bed floor tin did not have the bumps I was originally asking about, but there were some issues with the Mack Hils bed floor tin that I discovered, including misplaced bed mounting holes, and I show how I fixed those issues later in this post. I hope this helps anyone else who has encountered these same issues.

[OldGold360]

Here is a picture of my the original bed floor from my ‘36.

[DavidG]

I hope you mean Macks in Missouri and not Mac's in New York/Florida. The former is the go-to manufacturing source for accurately-reproduced truck sheet metal. The latter is just a seller.

[OldGold360]

I take it you don’t like Macs. I have no experience with them. I have contacted Mack’s in MO buy haven’t heard anything. I just didn’t know if I ordered the panel if it would look like the rendered image or if it would be correct for my pickup. Even Mack’s shows a drawing and shows all years looking the same.

[Lawson Cox]

Mac Hils product is spot on. You'll be tickled pink. Try it, You'll like it. I have his repo bed for 35-36 and am extremely pleased with it. I believe I know my 35-36 pickups pretty well. Lawson

[OldGold360]

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Thanks Lawson. That’s good to know. I bought this truck in pieces, and just trying to make it correct. The original bed is mostly salvageable with exception of the bed floor, front stake pockets and wood under the bed. It’s been hard finding good restoration info on these trucks. That being the reason why I joined this forum.

[DavidG]

Nothing against Mac's per se, but they do not make what they sell. Mack Hils in Moberly, MO makes what they sell and it fits right and looks right (as original).

[OldGold360]

Thanks David

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Mac Hils product is spot on. You'll be tickled pink. Try it, You'll like it. I have his repo bed for 35-36 and am extremely pleased with it. I believe I know my 35-36 pickups pretty well. Lawson

I will second that. Mac Hils has quality parts.

Nice to see you are doing the bed floor in the original steel. I cringe everytime I see a '35-'36 Ford pickup all dollied up with a pretty shiny WOOD bed floor. That takes away from the truck in my eye. It's not original. Looks out of place.

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

I will second that. Mac Hils has quality parts.

Nice to see you are doing the bed floor in the original steel. I cringe everytime I see a '35-'36 Ford pickup all dollied up with a pretty shiny WOOD bed floor. That takes away from the truck in my eye. It's not original. Looks out of place.

I agree completely.

[DavidG]

Wood flooring to cover up a rusted-out or heavily-pitted steel floor is often seen in '32-'34 pickups as well.

[OldGold360]

I’ve seen that as well. Makes me wonder why people would choose the incorrect wood floor over the correct steel when cost is close enough to the same.

[DavidG]

Where a huge difference in cost arises is in the finish. Sealing a wood floor is dirt cheap compared to a proper paint job on a steel bed floor. Overall, the early pickups without much in the way of interior paneling end up requiring more paint prep, paint, and finishing than their passenger car siblings.

[OldGold360]

Doesn’t the wood beneath the steel floor need sealed? Or did Ford not seal those boards?

[DavidG]

Definitely.

[OldGold360]

Any suggestion on how best to seal those boards?

[Jeff/Illinois]

We had a '37 Ford Pickup for quite a few years, and the guy I bought it from had already turned the bed floor over to Marine Spar varnished wood. It did look nice, but of course not original. I covered it with a big rubber mat trimmed to fit.

Our '36 now has the steel bed floor and that is what I would have done if I had been restoring that '37.

People who don't know these old trucks don't know the difference anyway.

[Ggmac]

You got the bumps . I can see them

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

We had a '37 Ford Pickup for quite a few years, and the guy I bought it from had already turned the bed floor over to Marine Spar varnished wood. It did look nice, but of course not original. I covered it with a big rubber mat trimmed to fit.

Our '36 now has the steel bed floor and that is what I would have done if I had been restoring that '37.

People who don't know these old trucks don't know the difference anyway.

Sounds good to me. Thanks

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Ggmac

You got the bumps . I can see them

Nope, It’s an optical illusion. It’s the flange that’s bent outward into the bedside detail. My bed floor definitely does not have the bumps like in the illustration.

[nelsb01]

To answer your question about what to seal the boards under the metal floor......
Roy Nacewicz told me that the closest he found to the color that Ford used was Minwax Ebony wood finish.
Of course in a reproduction bed you can only get to the bottom of the boards, but if you are replacing the metal floor of the bed, you can then work on the top side.
Hope this helps.

[DavidG]

I second Bruce's recommendation for using Minwax ebony stain/sealer. It also replicates what Ford used on wood floorboards in the cab and in passenger car bodies.

[OldGold360]

This is great info. Thanks guys. Since the bed is completely disassembled, I will be able to stain each board on all sides.
This will be a slow process in bringing this truck back to life since my time is limited and it is not in the best shape to begin with, but I will be sure to share progress with you all.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by Ggmac

You got the bumps . I can see them

I don't think Mac Hils would have put the bumps in the floor unless they were original. I have not reduced my research to that degree of minutia but I can only say I believe the bumps are correct. The two outer subfloor boards are notched as well as is the bedside for clearance of the shock arms. I believe the small bump in the bed floorboard is for the same purpose. At 89 I tried to crawl under my truck for a refreshing my memory look but, alas my old body just wouldn't let me get into the right position to view it. Perhaps one of you younger fellers could clear this up. LOL

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

I don't think Mac Hils would have put the bumps in the floor unless they were original. I have not reduced my research to that degree of minutia but I can only say I believe the bumps are correct. The two outer subfloor boards are notched as well as is the bedside for clearance of the shock arms. I believe the small bump in the bed floorboard is for the same purpose. At 89 I tried to crawl under my truck for a refreshing my memory look but, alas my old body just wouldn't let me get into the right position to view it. Perhaps one of you younger fellers could clear this up. LOL

Thanks Lawson. My original bed floor definitely does not have the bumps, nor does any other '36 bed floor I find pictures of. I think the rendered image displayed on Mack Hils website as well as Macs is just a generic image used for all years. I do wonder what years actually have the bumps.

I plan to order the bed floor this week from Mack Hils and will post an image of it once I have it. From what I have heard about Mack Hils, I am sure whatever I get will be correct.

Thanks

[Ggmac]

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Sorry .

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Ggmac

Sorry .

Nothing to be sorry about.

[OldGold360]

Update: Looks like I might just repair my old bed floor tin or form the panel myself. Shipping charges for the bed floor and the wood under the floor from Mack Hils is just about $1000. I know it’s a good size panel but when I have a pallet of 19g sheetmetal delivered from Chicago area, it’s around $300. I shipped a Pullmax machine from Florida for $400. Call me a cheapskate but I just cannot justify spending that much to ship a sheetmetal bed floor.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by OldGold360

Update: Looks like I might just repair my old bed floor tin or form the panel myself. Shipping charges for the bed floor and the wood under the floor from Mack Hils is just about $1000. I know it’s a good size panel but when I have a pallet of 19g sheetmetal delivered from Chicago area, it’s around $300. I shipped a Pullmax machine from Florida for $400. Call me a cheapskate but I just cannot justify spending that much to ship a sheetmetal bed floor.

You're not a cheapskate,,, I'd cringe at that price too Wonder who they are using for a shipper????

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by OldGold360

Nope, It’s an optical illusion. It’s the flange that’s bent outward into the bedside detail. My bed floor definitely does not have the bumps like in the illustration.

WHATEVER. Mac Hils product is correct. Have faith Grasshopper.

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

WHATEVER. Mac Hils product is correct. Have faith Grasshopper.

“WHATEVER”??? Sorry Lawson, but I’ve never used Mack’s products before and the drawing on their site does not represent what came in my pickup. I apologize for wanting affirmation of their products from the folks on this forum. I thought that’s why we were all here, to help one another. Honestly, and to be frank, lately you been a bit unfriendly on other peoples posts when they are simply just looking for a little help. You are making me, and probably others as well, wonder if joining this forum has been the best idea. If it wasn’t for all the kind and decent folks I have met on here I probably would just call it quits. Try to be a little nicer to people and stop being the “curmudgeon” you say you’ve become. Besides... it’s Christmas.

Sorry for the rant! Merry Christmas.

[Lawson Cox]

Just trying to help, albeit possibly not in a politically correct way. Merry Christmas to you as well.

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Just trying to help, albeit possibly not in a politically correct way. Merry Christmas to you as well.

No harm done Lawson. This forum just seems like a real good group of guys... and maybe some gals... maybe. Everyone seems so willing to help each other out and I would hate for it to turn nasty like some of the other forums I exited from. Sorry if speaking my mind was in bad taste.

[FlatheadTed]

I think that is a generic image as you say the 37s dont have the bulge like 33/34 ,I was just discussing this with a buddy here the import costs would be over the top so he intends to make one up, you need a bead roller .Ted

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

I think that is a generic image as you say the 37s dont have the bulge like 33/34 ,I was just discussing this with a buddy here the import costs would be over the top so he intends to make one up, you need a bead roller .Ted

... or even better yet, a Pullmax!

[totto]

I used the metal floor for my 1934 from Mack Hill and fit perfectly; got the wood from him as well and sealed the wood with ebony stain as been mentioned. Mack Hill has very good "stuff/parts" that "fit".

Henry

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by totto

I used the metal floor for my 1934 from Mack Hill and fit perfectly; got the wood from him as well and sealed the wood with ebony stain as been mentioned. Mack Hill has very good "stuff/parts" that "fit".

Henry

Yes he does, good parts good folks.

I might add , get Mac's book Ford Pickups 1932-1953 it is a nice book. A LOT of pictures of the '35-'36 pickups, more devoted pages than the other years, which is fine by me those two years are my all time favorites. But I like seeing them all!

[FlatheadTed]

I have the Mac Hills book ,hes the go to guy alright ,

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

I have the Mac Hills book ,hes the go to guy alright ,

Ted I like the picture in Mac Hils' book of the '34 pickup on the job site, the one that new house is being built!!

[FlatheadTed]

Yes Jeff that's a great picture ,good to see a working truck,

[FlatheadTed]

I hope I am not taking over OLd golds thread but a few truck pic is always good .

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

I hope I am not taking over OLd golds thread but a few truck pic is always good .

Not at all. My questions and concerns have been answered so feel free to use this thread however you’d like. I’m enjoying the pictures.

[GB SISSON]

It's nice you two guys can share, but Ted, I would love to see you start a thread about those trucks. Is that wrecker done? And what about the pickup in the middle of the 3 pics above? Your trucks are over the top in my book.

[FlatheadTed]

OK GB ,some shots your have seen before

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

OK GB ,some shots your have seen before

That looks good. I’m looking forward to the day when my ‘36 is to this point.

[FlatheadTed]

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,I thought the Pulmax a good idea ,never used one,this is one with a local cab ,he has a storage box in the tray ,I thought a good idea ,trying load up more than one photo ,?

[eddie48]

Back to the bumps. My 34 has them to allow for the protruding bumps in the sides of the truck bed which allow space for the shocks to function.

[OldGold360]

Got my bed floor and wood underlayment delivered today. I ordered thru Ecklers and paid about $850 less in shipping charges than the price Mack Hils quoted me for shipping... and parts still come from Mack Hils. The bed floor tin is a little wonky but I expect it to smooth out once I start assembling everything. I am not impressed with the wood though. I wish it was closer to original and the cuts are horrible. I’d buy the bed tin again but would make my own bed wood next time. Just sharing my opinion hoping it helps someone. Oh, and to answer my original question in this post... no bumps.

[hotcoupe]

am not impressed with the wood though. I wish it was closer to original and the cuts are horrible.
You are correct, a school boy could do a better job than that!
Tom

[OldGold360]

I’ll see if I can clean the boards up with some filler. Otherwise I’ll be making my own boards. It’s too bad someone isn’t making the boards just like Ford did. I know it would cost more, but I’d be willing to pay to have correct, and nicely done, bed wood.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Yes, wood work doesn't look to be up to Hils' normal standards, don't know what is up with that?

It sure looks like they could have done a better job.

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

Yes, wood work doesn't look to be up to Hils' normal standards, don't know what is up with that?

It sure looks like they could have done a better job.

Definitely. It’d be hard to do a worse job. I know a lot of people have raved about Mack Hils, but I haven’t had the same experience with the two orders I’ve received from them.

[TJ]

This could be a guess on my part, but since you saved $850 on the shipping and ordered through Mac's could you possibly have received "seconds".

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by TJ

This could be a guess on my part, but since you saved $850 on the shipping and ordered through Mac's could you possibly have received "seconds".

Oh boy, that sure would be bad business. But why would any company wants to put out a crappy product when they’re capable of making good product. I received a message from a gentleman that received a similar condition bed wood but ordered direct from Mack Hils, so I don’t think this is the case.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by OldGold360

Oh boy, that sure would be bad business. But why would any company wants to put out a crappy product when they’re capable of making good product. I received a message from a gentleman that received a similar condition bed wood but ordered direct from Mack Hils, so I don’t think this is the case.

Almost sounds like they are going thru a management change

[OldGold360]

I have been working on getting this Mack Hils bed floor tin to fit. 4 of the 6 bed to frame mounting holes are in the wrong spot, so I will be redoing this. Two of the other bed floor to subframe holes are way off. One thing I did notice about the dimples around the bed to frame mounting holes is that they are quite a bit smaller than the original bed floor dimples. The heads of the bolts are about the same size as the dimples so I really think this will look funny if I kept them as they come from Mack Hils. Since I have to relocate 4 of the 6 holes, I will machine some dies to stamp the correct size dimples around the holes. I can post pictures of that progress since I plan to tackle it this weekend, that is if nobody is sick of bed floor talk yet.

[hotcoupe]

I'm interested in seeing more of your work, post away!
Tom

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by hotcoupe

I'm interested in seeing more of your work, post away!
Tom

Same here!! Keep 'em coming good thread

[OldGold360]

I decided to tackle this job this afternoon since it’s been eating at me. I machined tooling to replicate the larger factory dimples in the original bed floor. You can see my test piece matches the original dimple and is quite a bit larger than the Mack Hils piece.

[OldGold360]

I flattened the incorrect dimples and filled the holes. I placed the pilot holes in the correct position after checking my subframe, frame, and original bed floor and stamped the correct size dimple with countersunk taper into the floor tin.

[OldGold360]

As for the only two bed mounting bolt holes... I countersunk the holes which removed most of the small dimple that was in the panel. I then used my dimple dies to form the correct, larger dimple, leaving almost no sign of the smaller dimple.

[OldGold360]

All done... I still have to remove some of the warping from the panel. These things come pretty wonky from Mack Hils. In the future I will make my bed floors from scratch. This will allow me to pre-stretch the areas that get the beads, dimples, etc. and will allow the floor to lay perfectly flat unlike this one. Next up, fix original bed side panels and start riveting.

[OldGold360]

Holes are now perfectly aligned with the holes in the frame. I bolted the bed floor to the frame and the bolts dropped right thru. I have no clue how any of Mack Hils beds fit these frames without serious hole slotting on the frame. Two of the holes were off by 1/2”. On to the other bed repairs followed by trying to figure out which rivets go where.

[ford dream]

you did a good job on the holes old gold 360

[OldGold360]

Thanks ford dream. I’m hoping this might help someone that is looking to replace their bed floor and, more importantly, wants it to be correct. I feel the bed floor is an important part of a correctly restored truck.

[Jeff/Illinois]

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Originally Posted by OldGold360

Thanks ford dream. I’m hoping this might help someone that is looking to replace their bed floor and, more importantly, wants it to be correct. I feel the bed floor is an important part of a correctly restored truck.

Absolutely! And GOOD JOB man looks good! Mac Hils is going to want to hire you away to work for THEM I wonder if their dies are worn out or what is going on??

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

Absolutely! And GOOD JOB man looks good! Mac Hils is going to want to hire you away to work for THEM I wonder if their dies are worn out or what is going on??

Hi Jeff. I just think Mack Hils did not measure twice. I'm not sure how they form their bed floors, but if it's stamped with all the dimples in one step, that just means their tooling was off from the beginning. If each dimple surrounding bolt holes is done individually, as I did when I redid them, then they have the incorrect dimensions or they did not measure correctly. Aside from that, their beads are sloppy, dimples the wrong size and incorrectly located, and their is a lot of warpage throughout the panel that I will have to address to get it to lay flat on the wood underlayment. I know others have been happy with their product, but I know of many others that are not. The impression I got when trying to decide which direction to go on my bed floor was that the Mack Hils product is a perfect replacement for my '36 and that I would not be disappointed... I was disappointed. It's far from perfect and it does need work to make it correct as well as bolt up to the frame. I don't say this to irk the Mack Hils fans that are out there. I only share my honest experiences in hopes to help someone that needs to make the same decision I had to not that long ago. I am fortunate that my background is metalshaping and that I have the equipment that makes it easier for me to make the necessary corrections to the bed floor that I needed to in order to make it correct, but also to make it bolt up to my frame.

[Jeff/Illinois]

OldGold makes me wish I had kept a '36 PU bed AND rear fenders I gave for free to a pal from high school about 40 years ago. They were mint

He was going to restore his Dad's '36 and it never got done.

I've tried to BUY them back from him for years but he is one of those guys that if he has something somebody wants he will never ever part with it.

I keep a close eye on the obituaries. If he dies I can buy them from his son, he doesn't have any interest in old cars!!

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

I keep a close eye on the obituaries. If he dies I can buy them from his son, he doesn't have any interest in old cars!!

This made me laugh... does that make me a horrible person?!?

[Zeke3]

Originally Posted by OldGold360

This made me laugh... does that make me a horrible person?!?

Nope.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by OldGold360

This made me laugh... does that make me a horrible person?!?

In NO WAY

Now if us '35-'36 Ford PU vultures are circling around YOU, be very, very afraid.

As nice as your '36 is going to be, it will take the National Guard to quell the riots from us guys in your driveway fighting over your pickup!!

[Bill Wyckoff]

I been reading the post on the bed floor and I'm thinking I might just try to salvage the floor I have. It needs a couple of holes repaired and I was going to seal the wood under the floor and clean up the support. But, the thought of spending that much money, then reworking the parts, getting them to fit, drilling and replacing the rivets has me wondering if I should try to repair it.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Bill Wyckoff

I been reading the post on the bed floor and I'm thinking I might just try to salvage the floor I have. It needs a couple of holes repaired and I was going to seal the wood under the floor and clean up the support. But, the thought of spending that much money, then reworking the parts, getting them to fit, drilling and replacing the rivets has me wondering if I should try to repair it.

A man after my own heart.

[Lawson Cox]

I have a Mac Hils bed on my 35 PU. I bought it, assembled, maybe 35 years ago. Everything fit perfectly and no wrinkles. Maybe his molds are worn a lot by now.

[OldGold360]

If your bed floor isn’t severely damaged by rust, I’d make the repairs and leave the bed riveted together. I’m still not done with my bed but getting close. I’m pretty sure that half the time spent on the restoration of my pickup will be spent on the bed. Also, if I ever do another early pickup, I will not use Mack Hils wood underlayment. It’s not correct and the cuts are performed by an amateur. Buy yourself some good planks and make the cuts yourself. It really wouldn’t be hard. Let me know if you need any repair sections for your bed floor. I machined tooling for the holes with the beaded detail around them. Good luck.

[Bill Wyckoff]

thanks, I'll clean off the rust and reevaluate the condition again as well as the wood. It's a little scary to know half the rebuild time is in the bed as the rest is taking a lot also. Just hope I can finish before my clock runs out. lol

[Tinker]

Well it's a truck so half the vehicle is the bed. Sorry to hear about the one costumer mac hill beds review... it's on my list. First I heard they are not perfect... I'm not delusional to think they make a exact replica of the bed sheet. Only hope it's good. What choice can you have at this point less you make it.

Best of luck! Lot of times we think perfect is some sort of thing we have to achieve. In reality, it's just a construct. Better is good to. It will get messed up if you drive it and way... Later make it perfect or buy a original ford. Your using aftermarket bolts too soooo...

Leave it better then when you got it.

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Well it's a truck so half the vehicle is the bed. Sorry to hear about the one costumer mac hill beds review... it's on my list. First I heard they are not perfect... I'm not delusional to think they make a exact replica of the bed sheet. Only hope it's good. What choice can you have at this point less you make it.

Best of luck! Lot of times we think perfect is some sort of thing we have to achieve. In reality, it's just a construct. Better is good to. It will get messed up if you drive it and way... Later make it perfect or buy a original ford. Your using aftermarket bolts too soooo...

Leave it better then when you got it.

I know I am not the only Mack Hils customer that has had problems, and I have spoken to a couple guys that had similar issues with the hole locations. I am not looking for perfect, but I am looking for it to be at least as good as it was from Ford. I don't need "perfect", but I'd be remiss if I didn't do things as good as I could. Why should one settle or try to convince oneself that the idea of making it "perfect" is just a construct? In my experience, driving these old restored vehicles only gets messed up when you don't take the time to do things correctly. Sure, you get rock chips and things will get dirty, but things wont fall apart as they would if you skimp on things because you've convinced yourself that it's ok to settle for mediocre. Everyone has different expectations and skill levels when it comes to restorations, but I firmly believe that we should all take pride in our work and I hope to portray that in everything I do.

I have an enormous amount of experience working with aftermarket panels for vintage vehicles and I also make panels for them as well. I understand that new panels almost always require some tweaking here and there to make them fit properly. Some people are fine with slotting holes to make things fit. I have done this, within reason, but the amount these holes were off was unacceptable to me. I am restoring this pickup and I want it to be nice. I certainly don't want to hog out holes just to make the bolts fall through the holes. I would never modify an original part to make an aftermarket part fit, certainly not on a restoration. I would rather do it the right way since I am capable. Yes, I am using aftermarket bolts, but they are correct replicas from Roy and would not affect the alignment of the holes regardless. My post was not intended to be a bash on Mack Hils but I wanted to share an honest review and the process that I went through to make their bed panel fit. Full disclosure, I only expected a better product because they told me that it was an exact replica of the original bed floor, which it is not. It's close, but you can see in this thread what the differences are. I understand that Mack Hils fills a need in this industry, but you just cannot compare their products to original Ford beds. My conclusion... Repair not Replace!

[nelsb01]

I purchased a 1936 pickup bed from Mack Hils and yes it needed work. My bodyman and I made corrections, and since we didnt have metal working tools, we made it work. Since I had an original bed in which the bodyman looked at and made an estimate for labor involved to make it resemble what it should be--- I saved about $3000 by purchasing a reproduction bed and relocating the 2nd and 3rd body mounts and cutting the carriage bolts holes.
Money well saved and I and the bodyman are quite happy with the results.

If you can do the repair -- go for it. If you want it done quicker, purchase reproduction and make the necessary repairs. Please note: I did send documented pictures and measurements to Mack Hils and they have made changes in their production.

[Tinker]

Good to know. Thank you

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by nelsb01

I purchased a 1936 pickup bed from Mack Hils and yes it needed work. My bodyman and I made corrections, and since we didnt have metal working tools, we made it work. Since I had an original bed in which the bodyman looked at and made an estimate for labor involved to make it resemble what it should be--- I saved about $3000 by purchasing a reproduction bed and relocating the 2nd and 3rd body mounts and cutting the carriage bolts holes.
Money well saved and I and the bodyman are quite happy with the results.

If you can do the repair -- go for it. If you want it done quicker, purchase reproduction and make the necessary repairs. Please note: I did send documented pictures and measurements to Mack Hils and they have made changes in their production.

There are also those guys that insist on original steel. I think most prefer this, but new can be a good route and look just as good if the pieces are correct. When did you submit the correct dimensions to Mack Hils?

While we are on the subject… I also purchased new stake pockets from Mack Hils and they too needed quite a bit of work to fit the original bedsides including extending some areas that were too short. I also machined tooling to stamp in the raised mounting section for the tailgate latch brackets on the rear stake pockets since these were absent on Macks.

[nelsb01]

I sent the needed changes to them in mid 2015.

I can not verify if they we made the changes, since, I only needed to order one of the reproduction boxes.

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by nelsb01

I sent the needed changes to them in mid 2015.

I can not verify if they we made the changes, since, I only needed to order one of the reproduction boxes.

Thanks. I am assuming that the changes were not made. I purchased my bed floor tin from them last year and had significant issues with bolt hole alignment, among other things. I compared it to the two frames I have as well as the box subframe and my original floor and the holes are definitely in the wrong location, mainly the box to frame mounting holes, plus the dimples around these holes were incorrect and would not fit the stock bolt sizes. One would think they'd want to correct this.

[nelsb01]

I guess you are right -- they did thank me for my pictures and documentation.
On the otherhand, my bodyshop guy taught me how to cut the front carriage bolt holes. Definitely 'old school' training.

[Jeff/Illinois]

That explains why I'm seeing so many wooden floors on '35-'36 Ford pickups in place of the original Sheet metal.

I like the looks of original far better than the wood.