Gas Cap surround and gauge

[mgambuzza]

Two questions on my new purchase.


One - likely my ambitious move to purchase this 1930, one item I apparently overlooked was the bubbling around the gas cap. What level of concern should I have, what would be needed to truly resolve, and any past experience in $$ I would be looking at spending? I'm almost afraid down the road the rust compromising the metal and one day while opening to fill the tank the whole top ripping off.


Two - the gauge/float. It is operational, but the float is either petrified and sinks to the bottom, and has lost its flotational ability. Would it be worth to attach another "floater" to the existing assembly, or should I purchase a whole new assembly to replace this?

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

The tank wont fall through. It’s paint bubbling from most likely, gas drippings. It will have to be repainted. Not sure of what’s involved, like does the tank need to be pulled.
You should run or drain tank below the gas gauge glass by several inches. Buy a gas gauge removal/install tool kit. I would probably just buy the whole linkage kit. You do not want the cork float, you want the neoprene one. Several years ago, when I upgraded mine, I had to do a little innovation to get the neoprene float on the linkage. Don’t know about now.

[john charlton]

The rust around the gas cap will just be local surface rust ,scrape it off and repaint . It is easy to replace the float use the neoprene one as the previous poster advises although the sealed cork ones work fine too . Buy the flat steel laser cut removal tool it works way better than the cast pot metal wrench it slips off use a good fitting bolt head to hold the centre still while you unscrew the outer ring . Get the gaskets the brass shims you can use over if they are not buckled .The float is held on to the wire end by a tiny steel washer which is secured by a "flat" pressed at the very end . Squeeze the flat back to round in the vise remove the little washer and slide the dead float off . Fit the new float fit the washer and squeeze a new flat on the end in the vise . This all assumes the assembly is in good condition which most are if too rusty replace the whole kaboodle .

John in foggy morning Suffolk County England .

[Badpuppy]

I replaced my smelly deteriorating cork float with a brass float from Mike's. Well made, easy to install.

[Mister Moose]

I just did this. The new improved as of 20 years ago ethanol proof cork float sunk after about 7 years. I didn't have time to fix it, and instead used a graduated dipstick. This is a foolproof and accurate way to measure gas, by the way, it just is smelly if you carry the dipstick with you in the car.

So in an episode of fixing lots of things on the car, I ordered the tools and the parts. (I think I had borrowed the tools when I first assembled the car thinking it was a one time event. HA!)

My float shaft looked marginal on the end. I really didn't want to squeeze and re-flatten the tip, it looked like I'd break it off. So I thought I'd cut off the cork float and assess. The cork comes apart like crumbly cheese. And somehow in the crumble falling away, the end washer went with it. No idea where it went, one of those disappearing acts in your garage. And obviously the "flat" wasn't flat enough after having been worked over once already in the frame up restoration in the late 90s.

So I cut a groove in the new neoprene cork. It's not like neoprene rubber, it's more like neoprene styrofoam. It doesn't cut, it tears and flakes. Anyway, with a razor knife I cut an 1/8" wide lengthwise slot to the core. Then when it was squeezed the ID would be smaller. I then used 2 zip ties or cable ties to squeeze it and hold it at the smaller ID, and placed it on the shaft. Then a 3rd small zip tie on the end to grip what was left of the flat. This way I didn't further abuse the flat, and possible shorted the shaft even more, saving the original gauge for another 30 years, hopefully more.

Reinstalling the gauge on the old cork tank washer (looked like a good seal but was squeezed thin) I had trouble getting it tight enough. I added another brass shim washer from the rebuild kit and it seems good, I'll have to watch it with a full tank for a while to be sure.

So the washer kits are cheap, do you really want to have your tank open and not have a good selection of parts to draw from?

I did this with the instrument panel on, but I could see you'll get way better purchase on the outer wrench if you take the instrument panel off first.

Will the cable ties fail eventually from degradation in the gas? Who knows. It seems like an inert enough plastic, but chemistry is not my forte. I'm prepared to take one for the team and report back in 10 years.....

[KGBnut]

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Easy fix. I used the neoprene float. I would NOT recommend replacing the whole gauge mechanism. Just replace the float. I found the reproduction gauges aren't as good as the originals. Also, they tend to rattle.

It can be tricky to get the gauge and sight-glass back in correctly. Get the proper tool and be patient. You will get it. Also, there is a long debate about which gaskets to use when you put it back in. Most will tell you to used the cork gaskets. I used the modern rubber ones and have had no troubles in about eight years. There are also a couple of brass slip rings. Make sure those are in good shape.

Good luck.

Ken

[Jim Baskin III Pa.]

Originally Posted by Badpuppy

I replaced my smelly deteriorating cork float with a brass float from Mike's. Well made, easy to install.

What badpuppy said. You cannot go wrong with the brass float as they never seem to go bad or sink.

[700rpm]

To add to what KGBnut said, follow,the instructions for reassembly of your gauge nut and washers. It is important to get washers and gaskets in the proper order, else you risk leakage. Also, always disconnect your battery when working with the gas gauge.

[mgambuzza]

After some of the successes I've had so far, I will admit bodywork is not my forte'. There is a local body shop that I had used on a number of my past vehicles, but usually there is a HUGE waiting line. I pulled in, got a quick quote for addressing the tank and surround, and they gave me a week appointment! Dropped it off Monday, and today I got a call to pick up - couldn't have been happier - looks fantastic!! He recognized me from past business, and afterward said he had a soft spot for an original "A" and that I was keeping it original. I'll be certain to stop again as I continue improving, but it was a huge relief to know it was just surface and not rusted through!


BTW - the gas gauge still works great! Thanks again for advice and helping my confidence level on getting this done.

[Model A Ron]

That shop did a good job! Glad you got her fixed.

I filled up once to the top and got a bit of gas got on the paint. Be careful and if any gas gets on on the paint clean it up fast. I now do not go past 3/4.

[KGBnut]

That came out great. Thanks for the update. So often people share a problem they are having and never let us know if they got it solved. It is nice to hear the outcome.

Ken