Starting an Engine that hasn't run in two years?

[FordToughChevyStuff]

This place has become a great resource for me, especially since I am still in the learning phase of how everything on a Model A works.

What steps should I take in order to get an original Model A engine to run good? I am not new to motors, just new to older style engines. The engine starts right now as it sits but it runs rough and backfires quite frequently.

Local Model A shop said to check the compression before I go too much further. I was planning on buying new plugs and connectors, flush radiator, change oil, drain fuel and blow out the lines, clean the carb, and then give it a go. I am assuming because it starts that all my ignition components are working properly, its just a matter of getting everything tuned in. I have a hunch that the rear cylinder was misfiring because the spark plug looked severely corroded and warped, maybe a sign that it was running too lean at one point?

Anyways, any insight from you experts would be greatly appreciated!

[Smurkey]

Pull the pan and valve covers and scrape out the sludge. Mine was so bad after 30 years the oil wouldn't readily drain out of the drain plug.

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Check the distributor shafts for wear....

[hotmodelaford]

Double check the timing. Reset points and check for wear. Do everything else you have listed.

[Terry, NJ]

Ididn't know where to get the gaskets to replace if I pulled the pan ,etc (Altough it seemed like a good idea) So I put a couple of qts of fuel oil in the crankcase turned it over by hand a few times. I left it for a week and drained it. Did it again, only with MMO
(Marvel's Mystery Oil, A solvent) Left it for a week and drained it. Then flushed in with some fuel oil. Then replaced the oil and we worked on starting it. One Ex. valve was stuck pretty bad. Both times I drained it, some very dirty oil came out. So I know it did something.
Terry

[J Franklin]

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I would change the oil if it was not put away with clean oil, and oil the dist., generator and grease the water pump. put a bit of oil in the spark plug holes and turn it with the crank while checking for compression. Also make sure the transmission lube hasn't leaked out. Flush out any old gasoline and use fresh. I would not mess with the electronics or change parts until it was up and running. then you will know if you replaced something with a faulty new part. You may need to file the points if they have corroded. Check for a good spark also.

OK so I didn't see your last post but I won't delete this one because others might get some benefit, especially the part about not changing things wholesale before knowing what might be needed. I would also now recommend cleaning out the pan and valve case, but after you get things running.

[Steve Wastler]

If you know and trust the history of the motor, you may not need to drop the pan and side cover. If you DON'T know or trust the engine history, it is best to drop the pan and open side cover BEFORE running the engine. Sludge from non detergent oil around the pump causes the most damage in the first 10 min of running. I agree with above as to not just throwing on new parts for the sake of it. I would also advise you to clean each and every electrical connection, including the back of the instrument panel. Good luck and happy Aing

[Brentwood Bob]

Baby steps are better than trying to run the marathon. Start with inspection, then cleanup, then go from there. Get the valve unstuck.
Bob

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Doghere,
Whin de-gunkin' the valve chamber, stuff sum FAT pipe cleaners in the oil galley holes, so's you don't PLUG EM' UP!! Ol' Bill sez so!! Buster T.