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Old 05-18-2017, 03:49 PM   #1
canadian
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Default Shocking Advice

29 CCPU, I have no shocks, no arms. looking for advice on what to do about this situation, this is my hobby truck 98% original . No Judges here only the wife, parts availability here in Newfoundland is basically non existent, I have researched that most popular vendors in USA have a supply of parts to pick from. I just want to drive my truck with all components functioning properly and safe. I have used all popular USA vendors during restoration with great success . But what do i need ? This is a weekend grocery getter, Thanks
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:28 PM   #2
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

well, shocks will set you back around 1000.

so you need to decide whether or not you "really" need them or not.

if you cruise at 45mph, you can drive wo them.
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:39 PM   #3
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

thanks Ronn , wondering about how many A'S are running around shock less. have never driven my truck so just wondering what surprise i would be in for with no shocks. thanks again.
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:53 PM   #4
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

In my opinion get the shocks from bill stipe if he is still making them. I ran for years with shock and since I put shocks on 1 Model A I installed them on all 6 cars I own. It is definitely worth the money.
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Old 05-18-2017, 05:01 PM   #5
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

Read my post below. I just installed Stipe shocks last weekend. I was surprised as my tube shocks (11 years old or so) were shot. Everyone has an opinion but for me....why did I wait so long. Stipe has them on the shelf ready for immediate shipment.
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:28 PM   #6
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I added shocks to my 29 ccpu about a year ago. I bought the complete kit from Snyders, shocks, links and arms.

I was told at the time that they had sold over 500 sets and none had come back.

I went with Snyders because their shocks have the fluid reservoir like the originals. Brattons are sealed.

Stipes did not have any shocks in stock at the time I was looking....

1000 miles later I'm still happy, no problems and no leaks.

They made quite a difference in the way the ccpu rides and handles....
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:55 PM   #7
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

If not a "point" car and money is tight, go with the modern shocks, but not gas filled. JMO
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:06 PM   #8
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

I have to second what Paul said. Especially if you are missing a lot of the parts, a good set of original style shocks can set you back a grand. However, a good set of tubular shocks can be had for less than $300.

Personally, I can strongly recommend the set from Ken Davis. I put a set in my '30 Coupe about six years ago and absolutely love them. Admittedly, they are a little stiffer than the originals, but they work great.

http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html

Good luck,

Ken
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:12 PM   #9
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

My guess is that there are more Model As running around without shocks than with shocks (maybe lots more). That doesn't mean they don't improve the ride, but depending on your budget, maybe not a $1,000 improvement ($1,360 CAD today).

Unless it is a long drive to get groceries, over some rough roads, at speed, I'd probably pass (but then I'm frugal )
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:30 PM   #10
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

Facing the problem with two cars, I had a set of old tube shocks on My red wheeled coupe and none on my Town Sedan. I too, spent a lot of time looking in catalogs and talking to store clerks trying to match up the old numbers, Nothing, and these are tube shocks. So I decided to just settle for shocks with the same physical dimensions, stroke , etc. What I found was the Monroe Gas-matic #59017. These are a little heavy for a Mod A, that means the ride's a little hard in my Coupe, I haven't had the Town Sedan on the road yet, so they may be great on it. The pair was under $50. This shock is the type with an "Eye" at both ends and pretty easy to mount. These shocks were for the rear. However, I had to make a bracket to bolt on to the back of the backing plate. (Lefts and Rights) See the drawing in my album ,"My A". I also had to drill a 5/8 hole in the frame to mount the top of the shock. I found that this part was fairly easy to fabricate with simple tools. I used 2" X 2" X 1/4" angle Iron. Look in my album, "My A" Good Luck!
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:56 PM   #11
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

Based on OP of 98% original I say go for the "real" shocks. Makes it handle better and will improve it to 99% original. I am glad I spent the bucks to rebuild/replace mine.
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:32 AM   #12
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

thanks so much for replies all. i am going with original style, not only for functionality but for the authentic look, hopefully the Canadian dollar will crawl back to .75 cents soon. thanks again.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:54 AM   #13
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First off, if you can drive the car over 25 MPH without it jumping all over the road with no shocks then you have a spring issue.

The springs are weak or need lubricant. If the springs are good then the car is horrible to drive above 25 MPH. It will feel like you going to fly off the road.

After you get a shock set up I would say you want to take at least the front springs off and make sure they are clean and lubricated. The other option is to buy a quality front repro spring.
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:37 AM   #14
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

No shocks or warn out shocks make the ride ruff. New tube shocks make the ride ruff. Solution: get a pillow. Cheaper too.
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:28 AM   #15
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

I got a set of originals rebuilt by Ron Paul. Took the tubes off my roadster and put the rebuilds on. That really improved the ride when on rough roads, I personally will never go back to tubes. I waited for years to put them on and only months to get rid of them. Too rough for a light car. Might be okay on a sedan with four people on good roads, JMHO
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:51 AM   #16
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

Look for two sets of rear shocks off of an early 60's to early 80's british mgb car. They are direct bolt on to model A's. You will need to buy the shock balls and weld them to the arms, that's about $20. The front arms will need to be heated and bent but that's it. You should be able to get 4 shocks with arms in good working condition off of ebay for less than $100 if you look and catch a deal.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:59 PM   #17
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

I have a set of friction shocks that bolt onto the frame in the original mount holes (no drilling) Private message me if interested. Mike
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:41 PM   #18
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronn View Post
well, shocks will set you back around 1000.

so you need to decide whether or not you "really" need them or not.

if you cruise at 45mph, you can drive wo them.
A year or so ago I sold 2 pairs of restored original shocks for 28 and 29 for $500 a set. John Holland who restored mine will sell a set of restored ones for less than $500. He will provide cores as well. I could tell little to no difference in ride with shocks. Those springs are so stiff!
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:55 PM   #19
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

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Originally Posted by KGBnut View Post
I have to second what Paul said. Especially if you are missing a lot of the parts, a good set of original style shocks can set you back a grand. However, a good set of tubular shocks can be had for less than $300.

Personally, I can strongly recommend the set from Ken Davis. I put a set in my '30 Coupe about six years ago and absolutely love them. Admittedly, they are a little stiffer than the originals, but they work great.

http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html

Good luck,

Ken
I will add a second to Ken Davis shocks. About 5 years on mine and they are still working great.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:44 PM   #20
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

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Originally Posted by canadian View Post
29 CCPU, I have no shocks, no arms. looking for advice on what to do about this situation, this is my hobby truck 98% original. No Judges here only the wife, parts availability here in Newfoundland is basically non existent, I have researched that most popular vendors in USA have a supply of parts to pick from. I just want to drive my truck with all components functioning properly and safe. I have used all popular USA vendors during restoration with great success. But what do I need? This is a weekend grocery getter, Thanks
This is my opinion since you know all that is available I figure you want an opinion, it should have no reflection on you or your car/truck.

If my truck was really 98% original I would not want to reduce the originality further. I would contact any of the shock rebuilders to see what they may have available. Save up for the reproductions that are available and at least have something that looks correct for the Model A.

Again my opinion.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:29 AM   #21
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

Hey Mike V, Your opinion is greatly excepted, do you have any knowledge of using original on just one axle? just don't like the appearance of modern shock? From your experience who would you suggest for reproductions? Also i know how touchy some fellas are when a person makes a comment like ... my truck is 98% original ... Iam going to edit and change it to 97% , forgot when i replaced tires , non white wall ,that the air i let out was replaced with modern air. LOL
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:13 AM   #22
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

Just curious . . . Is there a way to "easily" tell if the shocks on the car are original or reproductions? The very late 31' Tudor acquired awhile ago was apparently overhauled mechanically. Mounted are four of those original looking can shaped shocks. As for ride, they seem to be pretty much worthless and look to be just decorative. Have owned six operating Model A Ford cars over the decades. Just tqo of those had the can type shocks. The lousy ride on that 1931 Roadster owned years back was attributed to the original shocks being worn out. Now, this 31' sedan seems to have shocks in it that have been overhauled along with the entire chassis and drive train. Still the ride is teeth chattering at best. If I were to use this car for more driving, a set of some type of reasonably priced tube shocks would be well considered .
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:59 PM   #23
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this is my exact reason why i started this thread. CAPT. Thanks for your comment on this issue.
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:20 PM   #24
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That looks like rust between the spring leaves there Capt. The spring leaves need to be smooth and greased with smooth greased joints so the wheels can go up on a bump. The shock arm should go up with little effort as there is quite a lot of resistance in those spring leaves.

When the wheel comes back down the shock should slow the rate of the spring pushing the wheel down, so there should be a fair resistance of the shock arm going down. This downward resistance of the shock takes the jarring out of an uncontrolled spring, and makes for a smooth ride as (far as the shock is concerned).
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Old 05-21-2017, 12:23 AM   #25
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That looks like rust between the spring leaves there Capt. The spring leaves need to be smooth and greased with smooth greased joints so the wheels can go up on a bump.
Exactly. If the springs are not working properly the ride is going to be extremely stiff.The shocks can't be expected to work if the spring isn't moving...
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Old 05-21-2017, 07:15 AM   #26
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If I was going to use tube shocks I would spring for the Koni Special D. From another thread there are VW bug ones that might fit. I've had much success with Special D before on classic car suspension.

Here is a graph of the sports (yellow) and (red) normal Koni shocks:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=293

Notice how there is little compression force needed (arm going up in Capt's photo) and the much more in rebound (arm going down).

I looked at the cost of good brackets to hold the tube shocks (hot rod type) and the cost of good quality tube shocks like the Koni and decided to go with the Stipe shocks for the front (partly to do with the original look too).
The Stipe shocks are still in the box, but I gather from another thread here they are one way adjustable like the Koni.

For the rear I'll probably use some tube or rebuilt original shocks as it is not so critical.

Some of the repo shocks sold by the vendors have a small oil chamber. For long distance driving this could be an issue as the oil could heat up quickly.

One thing I've learned from outback driving is how fast shocks can heat up and burst.
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Old 05-21-2017, 07:26 AM   #27
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Before doing anything else on a Model A I would do the following, rebuild complete brake system, front end, new correct shocks, springs. Now you have a safe, well riding and handling car. Any money left could be spent on paint, engine, etc.
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Old 05-21-2017, 08:03 AM   #28
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Modern shocks : 10x cheaper and perfect results !
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:21 AM   #29
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Modern shocks. There is a reason Ford went with the very much more expensive shocks used on the Model A from the factory. As I mentioned earlier, when done properly, a correctly restored Model A Ford is a great driving car. Light, fast, and safe. I would only use the best available factory correct parts.
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:49 AM   #30
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Light, fast, and safe.
I agree with the light part.
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:07 PM   #31
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

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Hey Mike V, Your opinion is greatly excepted, do you have any knowledge of using original on just one axle? just don't like the appearance of modern shock? From your experience who would you suggest for reproductions? Also i know how touchy some fellas are when a person makes a comment like ... my truck is 98% original ... Iam going to edit and change it to 97% , forgot when i replaced tires , non white wall ,that the air i let out was replaced with modern air. LOL
Since you replaced the air with modern air I will not be giving you any more advice. But you did take off the white walls;

So, there are presently 3 manufacturers of "original" shocks. Stipes are built to function internally as the original ones were designed. Brattons and Snyders both make shocks with their own internal design. We have heard no real complaints in quite some time about any of the manufacturers' shocks.

I believe that the Stipe shocks can accept original covers for judging purposes.

Be careful if you choose "modern" tube shocks as there are some that are way too stiff.
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:31 PM   #32
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Default Re: Shocking Advice

Hi,
I am new to this list. After reading about the rear mgb lever shocks being direct bolt on, I got a pair to see how they might fit my 31 pickup. When positioned near/on the front shock mount holes, the body of the shock hangs only two inches above the tie rod and the top of the shock interferes with the underside of the fender. When positioned near/on the original rear shock mount holes, the top of the shock body interferes with the pickup bed sill. What am I missing?
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:29 PM   #33
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Yes, I lowered the front of my Tudor and found that if I attached them in the stock holes the bottom would hit the axle, so I went with mounting them in the rear only. Still looking for something under a billion bucks for the front.

If you have a wide bed pu they could be a problem, but you could always place a piece of bar stock between the shock and frame to move the top out away from the bed. That would allow the top to clear the edge of the bed. We did something similar on a Coupe that they were just a wee bit too close for comfort.
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:22 PM   #34
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Modern shocks : 10x cheaper and perfect results !
hey 3.6rs, i like 10x cheaper and perfect results, tell me more , what brand did you use?
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Old 05-27-2017, 10:26 AM   #35
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Yes . . . when looking at the pictures awhile ago, I too noticed the rust around the ends on the front springs. Then, it was forgotten. Except for exercise runs around the residential circle, that vehicle is not actually driven much. We pulled off the rear drums and found the previous owner had so much grease in there that the shoes were even covered in the stuff. Many of the fittings look to be over-filled with grease. Actually, when acquired, two old time grease guns came with the deal. Except for checking the basic fluids and cleaning the spark plugs, I have done no other maintenance on that car. With that said, what is the procedure to lubricate that front spring?
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Old 05-27-2017, 11:21 AM   #36
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With that said, what is the procedure to lubricate that front spring?
Here is a past thread to get you started. There are others...

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ng+lubrication
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