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Old 05-10-2010, 08:54 PM   #61
Mitch//pa
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

do you guys remember seaslug. this reminds me a little of that havent heard from him for a long time i guess he lost interest
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:56 PM   #62
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

He is on Ahooga chat once in awhile. Great kid. Rod
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:59 PM   #63
Mitch//pa
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

did he ever get his AA together? i remember i printed out a picture of his engine hoist and hung it on my office wall.
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:16 PM   #64
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Not all together, as he could not get the shop door open most of the winter due to the snow and the cold had moved the slab infortont of the doors and they would not swing open. I have not heard from him since mid April. Usually he peaks into the chat room late on weekends. Rod
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:22 PM   #65
Tony S,Fl.
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

Quote:
Originally Posted by firefirefire90 View Post
My dad and I have been restoring MGB's for quite some time so a full restoration has been thrown around, but I'm not too interested in modifying or making it a rat rod. Although I like that style, it is not the direction I like to take my vehicles. I would like to keep this car as original as possible, and just sort of make it "nice." A respray is out of the question, but getting the thing running/drivable is a possibility for the time being. The engine seems simple enough to tinker on while I have spare time and getting the car running although not simple, doesn't seem unachievable.
I notice a new battery. Make sure you put the + cable to ground. The - cable to the starter. A common mastake for newbys. Feel free to ask. Nobody was born a Model A expert. Tony
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:26 PM   #66
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My 2 Cents - go slow, save your money, don't sell anything - The best investment and cheapest is this site (historically) and the people on it. Information is the key - you can have a nice fun Model A for a lot less money than a "built" hotrod or fully restored A - I run a 30 A coupe and a frame off built 56 Chevy BBC 4spd car - I get as much if not more attention on the A at cruises. Look on Epay ,swap meets or any other site for some of the books on retoring model A - look read, buy the books, don't buy parts yet unles you need it to make it run. Fun = cheap, Pretty = $$$$$$ -
Just right is in between and you can go slow and your wallet will apreciate it! The more you learn about the A the more you will appreciate the early technology and the people on this site! - It took me about a year and a half before I knew what I wanted to do with my A - Unfortunately, I spent $$$$ buying parts before I really knew what I wanted to do and direction that I wanted to go. Patience = saving a lot of money!!!! Lot's of luck - go slow and enjoy the process!!
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:38 PM   #67
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It looks like you have a great basic car to start in any direction you decide to go - clean it up, get it running, save your money and drive it you will be surprised how much respect you will get from the "A" comunity andor the serious hotrod community. Last I knew they weren't making any more Henry Steel coupes!!! A very desireable car in either the A camp or the hotrod camp. Go Slowly!!!
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:50 PM   #68
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

Welcome, The oil will look brand new as all of the dirt has settled out and is setting in the bottom of the pan and the valve chamber. Do as Tom suggested and clean it up before actually starting it. You'll need to order the gaskets for reassembly and use lots of penetrating oil on the nuts and bolts to avoid surprises.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:16 PM   #69
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

Like a lot of the others suggested, I would do what you need to get it running, then carefully check out the various mechanicals to be sure they are working...brakes, steering, trans, etc. A lot of things on the Model A can fixed with adjustment or cleaning. I would vote to get it running and enjoy it for some time before you even think of tearing it apart. These cars are meant to be driven and are a hoot to drive around town. Good luck with it and feel free to ask lots of questions from the group here!
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:42 AM   #70
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

Sacremento Vintage Ford sells wiring harness, as do Bert's 800-321-1931, Bratton's 800-255-1929, Snyder's 888-262-5712, and many others.

If you can't wiggle the distributor shaft side to side, then the bushings should be OK. When you rotate the top plate in the distributor it should be a snug fit around the center hole so the points opening will remain constant as the spark advance lever rotates the plate.

When you drain the oil, you can bend a wire to a "C" shape and stick it into the drain hole and rotate it around to see if you can pick up any sludge off the bottom of the pan. Clean oil is possible even with a thick layer of old sludge in the bottom of the oil pan.
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:02 AM   #71
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

Guys, does the Sacramento Vintage form catalog have break out drawings?

Anyway,

Here is the link for the harnesses your looking for part number 00671;
http://www.vintageford.com/sect_sear...ing-%20Harness

Here is the link for the Generator your looking for part number 00640-0;
http://www.vintageford.com/sect_sear...gory=Generator
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:08 AM   #72
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

I am not sure Mike. I requested one of their catalogs and never received it.
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:11 AM   #73
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

I suggested Brattons because I know they have them. I would think that for a first timer, a catalog with breakout drawings would be a must.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:40 AM   #74
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

SVF was the only parts house that sold the correct length wiring for my 28 and 29 with drum taillight. SVF has the machine and make the wiring harness at their building. The correct harness wasn't listed in their catalog, but I called them up and asked about it. It didn't have the switch plate on the end, but that's OK, because the drum taillight with fluted headlights takes a different switch plate, which isn't being reproduced. That plate is hard to find, but I finally found a couple NOS plates from Doc Kalinka at Hershey about 5 years ago.

I would call SVF and order a part and ask them to send a catalog at the same time they ship the part. The catalog is very thick and heavy, so it has to cost SVF a fair amount of money to mail.

BTW, I tried to post this under #72 Rowdy, but it looks like it will be under Mike at #73.
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:17 AM   #75
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

You have a diamond in the rough! You are young enough to take your time and as many of us have - learn by doing. Best advice - hook up with a local Model A club. There is more knowledge in those places than in all the books ever written about cars and 99% of them have friendly, helpful people. Most of all - enjoy, there is nothing like the Model A community.
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:35 PM   #76
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Hi Nick,
My suggestion for what it is worth (and you probably know these things already) are to do the following:
Shine up the electrical contacts in the distributor, gap the plugs (.035"), remove corrosion from the plugs, shine up the coil wire ends plus the contact inside the coil & dist cap. Also shine up where plugs contact head. Then set your points (.018-.022). If you can, I would remove the popout switch cable from the dash and distributor. The reason for this is it will be easier to start the car if you replace the popout switch assembly with a simple switch (these are sold by the parts vendors: Sacramento Vintage Ford sells a replacement switch with keys--part number 606--for less than $20). This way if there is a problem with the popout switch you can just get it out of the picture (save it and restore later). These steps should take care of the ignition system. On old Fords corrosion of electrical connections is a problem, the better contact you can get the quicker it will start. When you get that ignition switch, order a set of points and condenser (these can also be readily obtained from NAPA). Make sure you have fresh gas and the gas does not have a lot of rust in it. I drain my gas tank into a gas can (be careful regarding fire) thru a gas filter. I do that 3 times and usually don't have problems with rust in the carburetor. Regarding the water pump, you could take it off to look at it but with a four blade fan you will have to take off the radiator and it's a long involved procedure (see Les Andrews book from MAFCA or the parts vendors). Perhaps you could back off the packing nut and it might turn. If the belt is off you can run the engine for a while on the battery (no generator) just to get a feel for noises and general initial performance. Hope this helps and good luck.
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Old 05-12-2010, 01:11 AM   #77
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
BTW, I tried to post this under #72 Rowdy, but it looks like it will be under Mike at #73.
Go the the message to want to answer and click on "quote" and the text of the message you are trying to answer will show up.
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Old 05-12-2010, 01:16 AM   #78
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Default Re: Hello all, new to the forum!

I have not even tried the quote thing yet, I will get to that trick later. Checking out some other things for now. Rod
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Old 05-12-2010, 01:45 AM   #79
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Hi All,
I was taling to the the guys at Sac Vintage Ford the other day and they told me they had finally run out of the old catalog and that a new one was expected soon. No ETA specified, just soon. Looking forward to it.
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Old 05-12-2010, 02:46 AM   #80
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Nice car.
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