Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Model A (1928-31)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-10-2015, 05:35 PM   #21
Vin-tin
Senior Member
 
Vin-tin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
Posts: 543
Default Re: Brass Black on shiny bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
How hot do you get the bolts for the oil dip method?
Tom, take some bolts and practice. Don't make them red hot. Just hot enough to make the oil smoke when you dip. And if you do it multiple time the oil that's from the previous dip burns black and helps the process.
__________________
1929 Coupe
1930 Coupe
1935 Ford 5 window coupe
Vin-tin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 05:43 PM   #22
pgerhardt
Senior Member
 
pgerhardt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Danbury Ct
Posts: 1,254
Default Re: Brass Black on shiny bolts

This stuff works well, is easy to get (available on Amazon),l and provides rust protection:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screen Shot 2015-12-10 at 5.41.29 PM.jpg (44.8 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg Screen Shot 2015-12-10 at 5.47.45 PM.jpg (23.4 KB, 35 views)

Last edited by pgerhardt; 12-11-2015 at 09:55 AM.
pgerhardt is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 12-10-2015, 09:39 PM   #23
marc silva
Senior Member
 
marc silva's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: santa rosa ca
Posts: 257
Default Re: Brass Black on shiny bolts

Where can I get this stuff?
I Can't tell you what I do when I need an ugly bolt ,although I try my hardest to use originals.
marc silva is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2015, 12:07 AM   #24
Mike V. Florida
Senior Member
 
Mike V. Florida's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Florida
Posts: 14,054
Send a message via AIM to Mike V. Florida
Default Re: Brass Black on shiny bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vin-tin View Post
Tom, take some bolts and practice. Don't make them red hot. Just hot enough to make the oil smoke when you dip. And if you do it multiple time the oil that's from the previous dip burns black and helps the process.
I've done this as well, looks real good and the dirtier the oil the darker it gets.
__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II
Mike V. Florida is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2015, 01:46 AM   #25
Chris Haynes
Senior Member
 
Chris Haynes's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
Posts: 2,830
Default Re: Brass Black on shiny bolts

The original black hardware was Parkerized. Parkerizing chemical is available on some gun websites and eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...dmd=1&_ipg=200
__________________
1921 Runabout
1930 Tudor
Early 1930 AA
Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?
Chris Haynes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2015, 07:34 AM   #26
harleytoprock
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 438
Default Re: Brass Black on shiny bolts

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
I strip zinc or cadmium bolts with muriatic acid, neutralize, rinse, dry, sandblast and manganese parkerize. To prevent rust, I either spray a light coat of flat black or I dip in hot 600 wt oil. The parkerized finish sucks up paint or oil into the surface very well. Black oxide can rust before you even install.
harleytoprock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2015, 01:18 PM   #27
Chris Haynes
Senior Member
 
Chris Haynes's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
Posts: 2,830
Default Re: Brass Black on shiny bolts

Parkerizing and how I do it.

By Chris Haynes

What is Parkerizing? Parkerizing is a metal finish used on virtually every antique motorcycle ever produced. It is a process that turns bare iron or steel into a finish protected by Zinc or Manganese Phosphatization. The process can be done in many different colors, but the color most often used on motorcycles is dark gray or black. Zinc will give you the dark gray while Manganese will give you a darker, closer to black. Zinc holds up a little better than the manganese though.
Finding which parts should be treated will require you to spend some time with a magnifying glass and factory photos. Parkerizing is a process that can easily be done at home. All parts must be thoroughly cleaned and stripped to bare metal. If you have made any repairs with brass, be aware Parkerizing will not adhere to it.
First thoroughly clean and degrease your parts. Then remove any old Parkerizing Cadmium, or Zinc plating. This is easily done by first carefully washing all areas of the parts in cleaning solvent or carburetor and parts dip. Using a wire brush or wheel will help get stubborn areas clean. Be sure you have removed all grease and dirt from the parts. In a well ventilated area place the cleaned parts in a glass or stainless steel bowl of Muriatic acid. Put the degreased parts into the acid and stand back until it stops its action. This usually takes three to five minutes and will remove any old Parkerizing, Cadmium, or Zinc plating. Now rinse the parts in clear 200-degree hot water. The parts should now be clean bare metal, if not continue to clean the parts until they are spotless. Do not touch the clean, bare parts with your bare hands, as the oils on your skin will ruin the process. Clean cotton gloves or a pair of tongs will help here. You can buy Muriatic acid at most hardware stores or swimming pool supply stores. Be sure to stay out of doors when stripping as the acid gives off poisonous gasses when used. Do not touch the acid dipped parts with your bare hands, wear the gloves or use the tongs.
Now that you have thoroughly cleaned and stripped parts, you are ready to Parkerize. You’ll need a few easy to come by items. The first of these is heat, as in: easily acquired by turning a knob on the stove. If your significant other doesn’t want you to be fouling the air in the home you can always retire to your garage or yard with an electric hotplate. One with two burners works best. You will also need some stainless steel cooking dishes deep enough to cover the parts you will be Parkerizing, preferably one with a cover or a piece of foil etc. to stop the solution from evaporating. Also a 200 degree candy thermometer, a measuring cup with ounces, a pair of tongs, some clean dry towels and a quart of new motor oil and of course the Parkerizing concentrate.
Parkerizing chemicals are available from many sources. eBay or your local gun shop is a good place, or try a chemical supply company. Or you can order the solution from Vernon Owens, 2311 Old Parker Road, Greenville, SC 29690 Phone (803) 246-3836
Once you have collected the required materials, follow the mixing and heating instructions provided with the Parkerizing solution. I use distilled water to mix with the concentrated solution but plain water works fine. Sometimes I have mixed the solution a little stronger and it works faster. Heat one container with water only to 200 degrees. This will be a final rinse and also pre heats the parts before they are placed in to the Parkerizing solution. Heat the mixed solution to one hundred and ninety-five degrees. When the brew is up to temperature I like to pour it through a permanent coffee filter. There are available at your grocery store in the coffee section. This step will remove the crystals that have appeared in the solution. Now place your parts into the solution and cover it. Don’t dump a whole load of parts at one time as this will cause the temperature to drop. Using the tongs occasionally turn the parts so the finish will come out even. Don’t let the parts stick out of solution or a permanent line will be on the part. Add more mixed solution as necessary to keep parts covered as it evaporates. When the parts are done quickly remove them, hot water rinse them and towel dry them and dunk them into the motor oil that has been heated to the same temperature as the solution. I heat my oil in a small electric frying pan. This will help protect the finish as the oil is absorbed into the pores of the metal that have been opened by the heat. You do not need to leave the parts in the oil for long. A minute will be plenty of time. This entire process takes about an hour. If you are Parkerizing parts that will be painted, don’t oil them.
Your parts are now ready to correctly complete that loving restoration.
__________________
1921 Runabout
1930 Tudor
Early 1930 AA
Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?
Chris Haynes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2015, 12:34 AM   #28
Mike V. Florida
Senior Member
 
Mike V. Florida's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Florida
Posts: 14,054
Send a message via AIM to Mike V. Florida
Default Re: Brass Black on shiny bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Haynes View Post
Parkerizing and how I do it.

By Chris Haynes
Very nice tutorial.
__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II
Mike V. Florida is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2015, 09:34 AM   #29
jimalabam
Senior Member
 
jimalabam's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lee County Alabama
Posts: 828
Default Re: Brass Black on shiny bolts

Vince: You are a bad boy today, go sit in the corner of the garage until Mama calls you to come in !!!
jimalabam is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:36 PM.