radiator failure

[woofa.express]

I had sort help on this forum about coolant filters and settled on a sock specifically made. Had coolant leak around the neck where sock was fitted and it really made a mess of my paintwork as I had vinegar to clean the engine block. Removed sock and yes it did catch moderate amount of debris. still leaking. This time a close inspection revealed it's leaking where the upper neck is soldered to the tank.
the radiator, new and fitted mid Sept 18. the pressurized one.
What a disappointment, the failure and the mess.
So my earlier reporting of the failure with the sock was incorrect.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Any idea of what caused the Neck to develop the leak?

[Railcarmover]

Why use a pressurized system?...epoxy the neck..

[rocket1]

I would first call the dealer you purchased it from and register a complaint,let this forum know how you made out and the dealers name.

[woofa.express]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Any idea of what caused the Neck to develop the leak?

I think poor manufacture would .

[woofa.express]

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Originally Posted by rocket1

I would first call the dealer you purchased it from and register a complaint,let this forum know how you made out and the dealers name.

This is a problem. The dealer is in U.S. and I am in Australia. The freight there and back is 60% of the radiator purchase price. I have no problem with the dealers integrity.

[woofa.express]

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

Why use a pressurized system?...epoxy the neck..

it leaks where the radiator neck is soldered (? adhered) to the tank. Why the pressurised system? I bought a new water pump, the sealed bearing type, and thought the pressurised system might have an advantage.
I also bought a second radiator for another vehicle, non pressurised and this has not been a problem. Yes, why did I buy a pressurised system? I'm asking that question of myself. I checked the pressure relief cap and yes it is performing at 4 pound just like it supposed to.

[whirnot]

I had a similar problem with a recored radiator, that was leaking at the top where the filler neck was soldered on. I kept thinking the cap was leaking. I haven't used that car much lately, so when I finally figured it out, almost three years had passed since I bought the radiator. Kind of hard to go back to the supplier after all that time......
And I too don't question his integrity.
I just took it into a local shop and had it fixed, and live to fight another day.....

[1931 flamingo]

Remove the rad, clean the neck good and re-solder. Take the pressure cap off...........


JMO
Paul in CT

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Remove the rad, clean the neck good and re-solder. Take the pressure cap off...........


JMO
Paul in CT

If drained, and the shell is off, can it be soldered on the car? Asking because I do not know.

[super flat]

Yes but laying flat would be much better and I dought you will find anyone to do it in car.

[woofa.express]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Remove the rad, clean the neck good and re-solder. Take the pressure cap off...........


JMO
Paul in CT

yes, I reckon without pressure it would have held.

[woofa.express]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

If drained, and the shell is off, can it be soldered on the car? Asking because I do not know.

Maybe it could be done insitu. However the whole radiator section and front engine needs cleaning and really the radiator must be removed for that. It's quite a mess.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by woofa.express

Maybe it could be done insitu. However the whole radiator section and front engine needs cleaning and really the radiator must be removed for that. It's quite a mess.

Yeah, it is a mess, I had overheating issues and had rusty water get all over everything, has to be much worse with vinegar, not even considering what the vinegar does to the paint. I think Tom W. posted pictures of the mess once, not sure if it was here or on Forum "that shall not be named" (reference to Harry Potter).


I feel for you.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by woofa.express

Maybe it could be done insitu. However the whole radiator section and front engine needs cleaning and really the radiator must be removed for that. It's quite a mess.

How about brazing? JB Weld squished a little through the crack to act as a plug, with screen reinforcement? I know is a farmer fix. Most likely want to do it right as long as it is off.

[zzlegend]

Brazing is a no,no. Very easy fix with a small propane torch and some string solder. Clean with a small wire brush that looks like a tooth brush. Very little flux and you will be styling.

[updraught]

"Pickling is a process that removes oxidation and flux residues that develop during the soldering process."

https://nancylthamilton.com/techniqu...d-baking-soda/

Looks like that has been successful.

[Lawrie]

go to a radiator repair shop and get some solder from them,its made in Aus and about 3-4 mm dia, remove the radiator, clean the area with a wire brush and emery paper,then use proper slider flux and a small blue LPG burner thing, avail cheap from Bunnings,
If Terry from Mackay can remove and repair his 28 radiator on the side of the road in WA with his cooking burner,you should be able to do it in your shed.
Lawrie

[whirnot]

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

Why use a pressurized system?...epoxy the neck..

Don't epoxy it. In an other sideline, I remove things that have been epoxied together... by soaking in boiling water. Epoxy melts......

[whirnot]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

How about brazing? JB Weld squished a little through the crack to act as a plug, with screen reinforcement? I know is a farmer fix. Most likely want to do it right as long as it is off.

Brazing takes more heat then Solder,