1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck

[51504bat]

Y n Z's Yesterday's Parts in Redlands, CA can make a complete original looking wiring harness or any portion there of. Or they will sell you original looking bulk wire. Good guys to deal with. JMO

(909) 798-1498
https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

[bobH]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Y n Z's Yesterday's Parts in Redlands, CA can make a complete original looking wiring harness or any portion there of. Or they will sell you original looking bulk wire. Good guys to deal with. JMO

(909) 798-1498
https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

Thanks for that.... That is a great tip, for a guy that is practically next door.

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by bobH

Thanks for that.... That is a great tip, for a guy that is practically next door.

The owner Gene is semi retired but still generally works on Tuesdays and Thursdays but the rest of the crew are there full time. A while ago he gave me a tour of the facility. Very impressive. He comes to a coffee and donuts car get together on Saturday mornings that I go to.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

That's a nice truck Chris, and should be a fun project for you getting that back in drivable condition.
I bought one similar to that about 15 years ago. It was also a 131" wb, but had a stake bed rather than dump. Wound up selling it about 5 years ago. Had too many other projects going, and no time to work on that one. I could post some pics if you'd like to see your trucks brother

PS, will post pics when I can go back into my old computer and find them.

[sugarmaker]

Pete,
Thanks for posting that very nice green truck. My truck is in time out. Setting outside the shop for a little bit.
So my shell is black, looks like it has been changed or painted?? It has a few yellow spots like primer under the paint. Don't know the story?

So today we did another dose of the block sealer. Got some basic wiring for the prototype wiring of important stuff like tail light. Then I would be legal on the road. Also have pretty much decided the more modern red tail lights will be replaced with the rear arrow turn signals. Just picked up bulbs(yellow) for the turn signals.
Can some one give me some hints on the steering wheel controls.
? Looks like 4 positions on the switch.
I have to see if this turn signal features, will function also.
So I took the truck down our big little hill, and back up it in third gear. Did pretty good.
It is running better. Have the idle down. And it's not stalling when slowing down. Seems to have some power.
I would think that with a real good load on you might not get past third gear?.
Top speed est is about 35 mph?? Haven't pushed it real hard as engine components are just getting broke in too. Running engine at various speeds during break in.

Thanks for checking in on me. Trying to get a video to load on my channel.
Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

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Chris,


You asked earlier if there was a bigger '32 truck than yours; yes, the sibling to yours had a 157" wheelbase. The cabs and everything forward of the cabs were the same for both wheelbase versions. In the U.S., four of the 131" version were sold for every three of 157" version, but worldwide, the 157" version was the best seller.

[Bob C]

Operation of the Lights The lighting system is operated by a switch handle located at the top of the steering wheel. When the lighting switch handle -is pointed straight down, the lights are off. Turning handle first position to right from the "off" position gives a downward tilting beam for city driving. Turning handle to second position to right provides a beam which gives exceptionally brilliant road illumination for country driving. Turning handle all the way to the left turns on the parking lights.


The above is from the Model A owners manual but I believe the 32 is the same.

[sugarmaker]

David, Bob, Ford folks,
Thanks you for the information on the wheel bases and units sold. Interesting I must say.
Bob, Thanks for the switch function. I was to lazy to research that. At this time I have removed the rear stop lights and replaced them with the directional arrow lights. Which leaves me with just the center brake light. I like the looks of those, just not sure about the wiring for the system yet. Need to think on that and do some testing. Also have the directional arrow lights on the front fenders.
Engine is starting good, idling well but still sounds to me like its not running on all four cylinders? Power was ok. Maybe still expecting too much?
Regards,
Chris

[flatford8]

Chris, I agree on your headlight thoughts….they’re on to see but also to BE SEEN….I think the Ragged ‘Ol Truck is in good hands !!!…..Mark

[cas3]

Glad to hear you decided to remove the modern rear lights, now I can still converse with you! I think you need one of these vintage signal controls like pictured here. I shortened one up for my 34, as entrance with a suicide door made it seem too long. They are available on ebay or at swap meets. The old switches like this require a separate circuit for the signals.

[sugarmaker]

Mark,
Comments appreciated on the headlights.
cas3,
Now you and I may not be talking! Just changed my mind again earlier and want both the high intensity new plastic coated streamlined brake lights from the 50's,
And in addition to that also the vintage patina arrow turn signals. I have not set these up yet on the back to see how they will look, but have a vision. I want the parking lights and brake light options that I dont get with just the arrow turn signals and the original single red light . But i like the look of the arrows so much I have to have both. Just going to mount the arrows under the lip of the bed outboard on each side a distance away from the red lights. It has been good chatting with you cas!
I have a somewhat vintage turn signal switch that is on the steering column

Working on the air compressor room in the shop today, a small diversion from the truck too. Putting up the lower steel panels.

I did try to do a video. Not sure how this will turn out?
https://youtu.be/wFjmFi-_PLQ

Regards,
Chris

[Bored&Stroked]

Watched the video . . . if that is it running in it's current tune, then it is definitely surging and missing quite a bit. But maybe that was just your first startup???

[sugarmaker]

Dale,
That was a couple days ago, prior to resetting the valve lash and the float level. I believe it is better now. I will try to post another one of it in its current running state. Also inside this shop it is very tinny sounding (echo). No muffler either. Bare with me I am not very good at the video thing but trying to improve there too.
I ordered the bushings for the distributor today and may try that refurb in the next week or so. I have a shop that can press out the old and put in the new bushings and ream.

Regards,
Chris
Thanks

[DavidG]

Chris,

Thanks for the video.

What's that rattling sound, the power takeoff gears?

Obviously what muffler is used has a lot to do with how much noise can be expected, but with a stock muffler, a good running B engine is pretty quiet at idle, especially given that its oversized flywheel lets it idle at about 200 rpm.

[sugarmaker]

David,
Its just running, at what I called rough. Yes no muffler and inside the shed, its kind of like being in a trash can. No the PTO was not on.
I am going to try to up load some additional videos. But it seems to take for ever!
Still learning that too.
Worked on the tail lights and rear turn signal placement tonight. I prototype d this a couple ways and I have what I like the best. I know some won't and may have to look the other way!
This is the way I left it for the night. We will see if it rejects the lights or accepts them.
I think they are going to work just dandy! I did have the arrow lights out under the bed rails. Just had several issues.




This was a earlier version with no brake lights. I did not feel it was safe enough.


Trying to load up another video, 10 more minutes to go!

Different task was to work on the inside of the air compressor room in the shop. Got started its only 4 feet square:


Regards,
Chris

[tubman]

A separate Air Compressor room is really a good idea. I had a friend who had one in his garage, and had a large pipe on the inlet port that went through the wall and terminated in a 90 degree upward elbow with a large air cleaner on the top. No noise problem at all.

[sugarmaker]

Tubman, Folks,
The small somewhat insulated room is my attempt to reduce some of the air compressor noise. I was going to have a vent near the bottom and one near the top. For some reason I dread the thought of running air lines in the shop. I know there are hard piping systems and also soft piping systems. Not sure how fancy I want to get with that system. Sounds like a next year project? We are going to work on lighting Friday. Looking forward to getting that installed in the other bays.

Another try at simple around the truck while running video. I still have plans to rebuild the distributor with new bushings. Several folks have mentioned that may help to smooth out the engine running some too. Nothing too exciting here:
Note tail light/ turn signals have been reconfigured as mentioned above:
https://youtu.be/T7W6qGIQP6k


Here are some shots of the turn signal system in the truck. Any thoughts on this unit?




I would like to use it if it is still functioning. The lever has been broken off at some time:

Regards,
Chris

[DavidG]

Ah, without a muffler the exhaust noise about overwhelms one's ears, rough or smooth running.

[tubman]

How can anybody not like that? It looks "period correct".

Use it if you can.

[Bob C]

Rapidair has kits for air piping. https://www.rapidairproducts.com/kits
Amazon sells them.https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rapidair+...s_ts-doa-p_3_8