The Ford Barn

don's 37 · 07-11-2011, 06:48 PM

I still cannot get my 6 volt 3 brush generator to charge on my car. I took the generator over to a V8 guy in a town next to me and he had the pulley spun at a high rate of speed and put a test light tip inside the rear resting on a brush terimal. The clip part of the test light was placed on the ARM terimal of the cut-out and it lit. He told me the generator was good but had no way to test the cut-out.

Back at the house I bolted in the generator and hooked up the cut-out but left the cover off. I started the car and the ammeter still shows zero at idle and at faster RPM's. The ammeter seems to be okay because when I turn on the lights it does discharge. My Dad, with the car running, used a wooden stick and closed the contacts on the cut-out and still nothing made a change. The cut-out is a new repro.

Please help...Thanks, Don

eastnewtonauto · 07-11-2011, 10:38 PM

Hi, my Model A generator was doing the same thing! I had a used field and put my guts the brushes , arm and front in it and wow charges like new !!! it's most likely your field thats bad ?

Karl Wolf · 07-11-2011, 11:35 PM

I find that I can bench test a generator by hooking it up to a battery- if it motors, it will generate... For two brush... Hook the positive to gen case, field AND armature together to the negative... If a three brush, there's only one wire- hook it to negative... If functional, it will turn as a motor... Karl

Mr 42 · 07-12-2011, 06:59 AM

You can also trying to shortcut the cutout relay, start the engine upp.

And use a voltmeter over the battery, the voltage should be around 7.7 volts or above when charging (you need to rev it a bit).
If you have 7.7 Volt you have a problem with the cutout relay.

If the voltage is the same as when the engine is turned of or lower, you have a problem with the generator

Terry,OH · 07-12-2011, 07:33 AM

When the car is running the relay in the cut out should pick up, when the car stops the relay drops out, you should not have to pick it up, unless the cut out is bad...OR... The wiring is not connected properly or broken. Then the cut out relay will not pick up by itself and the generator will not charge. With the engine off place a test light across the two terminals of the cut out, if the light lights, the wiring to the car and to the generator is good. If it does not light then connect the test light from the cut out terminal with the car wiring to ground if the light now lights that wire is good. Then connect the test light to the cut out generator wire terminal to a battery (-) and the light should light if not the wire to the generator is open circuit.

don's 37 · 07-17-2011, 10:59 AM

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I have been researching cut-out's for my new rebuilt generator so I can start driving my car before the summer is ends. What is the best kind to buy and why? The original style, the diode style or the voltage regulator style? Are there any modifications to do on the last two? I see some can get very expensive. I have the original 6 volt system. Who sells good quality cut-out's? Thanks.

B-O-B · 07-17-2011, 05:40 PM

You probably already done this but it wouldn't hurt to polarize the generator again.

ford38v8 · 07-17-2011, 06:16 PM

Don, cutouts don't protect your battery from overcharge. Get a voltage regulator. A good one for your car, looks original, is available from Fun Projects. 6V or 12V electrtonic, with or without Script, correct looking units from Model A's rtight up to your '37.

Fun Projects www.funprojects.com

tierod · 07-17-2011, 11:34 PM

make sure the cutout is not wired backwards

jwhite1149 · 12-09-2012, 02:38 PM

How do know if the cut out is wired correctly?

jimvette59 · 12-09-2012, 05:09 PM

Maybe the battery does not call for a charge. Make sure you have the correct cut out there is one for + ground and one for - ground. Best check is motorizing it as Karl Wolf has said.

Charlie ny · 12-09-2012, 07:01 PM

Don,
I have a bunch of original cut outs converted to diode....email me your
address and I'll send you one. The diode is sort of an electrical check valve...
' juice ' only goes one way. I'll toss in a sketch. I feel good.....all my check ups
came out good.
Charlie ny
[email protected]

07-11-2011, 06:48 PM	#1
don's 37 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Palmyra, NY Posts: 195	1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! I still cannot get my 6 volt 3 brush generator to charge on my car. I took the generator over to a V8 guy in a town next to me and he had the pulley spun at a high rate of speed and put a test light tip inside the rear resting on a brush terimal. The clip part of the test light was placed on the ARM terimal of the cut-out and it lit. He told me the generator was good but had no way to test the cut-out. Back at the house I bolted in the generator and hooked up the cut-out but left the cover off. I started the car and the ammeter still shows zero at idle and at faster RPM's. The ammeter seems to be okay because when I turn on the lights it does discharge. My Dad, with the car running, used a wooden stick and closed the contacts on the cut-out and still nothing made a change. The cut-out is a new repro. Please help...Thanks, Don

07-11-2011, 10:38 PM	#2
eastnewtonauto Junior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: southwest mo Posts: 4	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! Hi, my Model A generator was doing the same thing! I had a used field and put my guts the brushes , arm and front in it and wow charges like new !!! it's most likely your field thats bad ?

07-11-2011, 11:35 PM	#3
Karl Wolf Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mill Valley,Ca. Posts: 1,509	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! I find that I can bench test a generator by hooking it up to a battery- if it motors, it will generate... For two brush... Hook the positive to gen case, field AND armature together to the negative... If a three brush, there's only one wire- hook it to negative... If functional, it will turn as a motor... Karl

07-12-2011, 06:59 AM	#4
Mr 42 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sweden Posts: 427	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! You can also trying to shortcut the cutout relay, start the engine upp. And use a voltmeter over the battery, the voltage should be around 7.7 volts or above when charging (you need to rev it a bit). If you have 7.7 Volt you have a problem with the cutout relay. If the voltage is the same as when the engine is turned of or lower, you have a problem with the generator

07-12-2011, 07:33 AM	#5
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,750	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! When the car is running the relay in the cut out should pick up, when the car stops the relay drops out, you should not have to pick it up, unless the cut out is bad...OR... The wiring is not connected properly or broken. Then the cut out relay will not pick up by itself and the generator will not charge. With the engine off place a test light across the two terminals of the cut out, if the light lights, the wiring to the car and to the generator is good. If it does not light then connect the test light from the cut out terminal with the car wiring to ground if the light now lights that wire is good. Then connect the test light to the cut out generator wire terminal to a battery (-) and the light should light if not the wire to the generator is open circuit.

07-17-2011, 10:59 AM	#6
don's 37 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Palmyra, NY Posts: 195	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have been researching cut-out's for my new rebuilt generator so I can start driving my car before the summer is ends. What is the best kind to buy and why? The original style, the diode style or the voltage regulator style? Are there any modifications to do on the last two? I see some can get very expensive. I have the original 6 volt system. Who sells good quality cut-out's? Thanks.

07-17-2011, 05:40 PM	#7
B-O-B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ft Mohave,Az Posts: 1,987	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! You probably already done this but it wouldn't hurt to polarize the generator again.

07-17-2011, 06:16 PM	#8
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,641	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! Don, cutouts don't protect your battery from overcharge. Get a voltage regulator. A good one for your car, looks original, is available from Fun Projects. 6V or 12V electrtonic, with or without Script, correct looking units from Model A's rtight up to your '37. Fun Projects www.funprojects.com __________________ Alan

07-17-2011, 11:34 PM	#9
tierod Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: KILLINGWORTH, CT Posts: 145	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! make sure the cutout is not wired backwards

12-09-2012, 02:38 PM	#10
jwhite1149 Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Mesquite, Tx Posts: 20	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! How do know if the cut out is wired correctly?

12-09-2012, 05:09 PM	#11
jimvette59 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Perry OH Posts: 1,330	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! Maybe the battery does not call for a charge. Make sure you have the correct cut out there is one for + ground and one for - ground. Best check is motorizing it as Karl Wolf has said.

12-09-2012, 07:01 PM	#12
Charlie ny BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 3,019	Re: 1937 Ford Generator - STILL STUMPED! Don, I have a bunch of original cut outs converted to diode....email me your address and I'll send you one. The diode is sort of an electrical check valve... ' juice ' only goes one way. I'll toss in a sketch. I feel good.....all my check ups came out good. Charlie ny [email protected]