The Ford Barn

Vonn Ditch · 09-09-2014, 08:42 AM

So I bought a basketcase 49-53 Flathead that had been stored unassembled for years. We pressure washed and cleaned it up and checked it with magnaflux. No cracks presented themselves. It's a standard bore with only slight ridge at the top of the cylinder. Here's the problem, the engine was taken apart and nothing was marked, rod end caps, mains, all unmarked and loose in a box. How should I proceed?
Thanks

rotorwrench · 09-09-2014, 08:54 AM

Most con rods were numbered but not all. They can still be used but some form of ID check on the cap bores needs to be done. On the mains, there is a 50/50 chance you can get them back in proper order since the rear main cap is unique. All of these can be align honed at a good machine shop to eliminate worries. Check the caps for indented center punch marks too. I usually mark the with 1 dot for the front main and 2 dots for the middle. I would have the engine bored with new pistons if the wear is beyond service limits.

Consider a pressure test of the block. You can have cracks that are not visible by magnaflux. It's the only way to be sure there will be no leaks.

JWL · 09-09-2014, 09:57 AM

The main caps are a simple process to assign locations because the drilling will allow only one of the caps to properly fit at the front. The bearing notch of block and cap go to the same side. Of course the rear cap is easily identified.

The rods are usually marked with L and R(for left and right) and 1-2-3-4(for front to rear). If there are no rod markings a careful examine can sometimes find witness marks to help. In the end it might be necessary to use a precision gage to sort through each rod with potential caps to find a usable set. Too, it is possible to cut and re-machine the rods making cap location a moot point. But, the expense would seldom be desirable.

JSeery · 09-09-2014, 10:10 AM

As stated above the mains are a non-issue, there are differences between the front and the center caps (very slight, but they are different). The rods really should be reconditioned, so they would become a non-issue also.

GreenMonster48 · 09-09-2014, 10:49 AM

Spend the $250 or so to have the block hot tanked and pressure checked to check for cracks that may not be evident to the naked eye.

I spent $250 on a NOS french crankshaft and another $175 on NOS french rods. I'd imagine you'd spend similar money to get your existing parts machined.

Richardtx · 09-09-2014, 11:15 AM

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You can identify the front and center main bearing caps by.....the front cap will always have a little bump cast on the cap about 1/8". Also, the bolt holes will be centered on center cap. The bolt hols will be a liitle off-center on front cap. If rod caps are not marked, look at the matching machine marks when rod was honed. Sometimes you can see where the lines match up.

Vonn Ditch · 09-09-2014, 01:09 PM

I appreciate the help. I've lined up someone for the pressure check, we'll see where we go from there. There had to be some reason the engine was apart, I just don't see it yet.

Ol' Ron · 09-09-2014, 03:25 PM

Front main bolts are different. Have large hole in center of bolt head. Have never figgered out why??

supereal · 09-09-2014, 03:30 PM

Your best bet is to take the rods and caps to a good machine shop and have them assembled and honed to determine whether they can be used. Have the crank measured, as well, to determine the oversize. if necessary. Standard oversize is .010, ,020, .030, and .040. Otherwise special order bearings will be needed. At our shop, we grind crankshafts and order spec bearings from Mahle. Most "basket case" engines have some surprises.

Walt Dupont--Me. · 09-09-2014, 07:35 PM

Take the front and center main caps and lay them on the bench upside down, you'll see the front cap bolt holes are off set and the center cap the holes are in the middle, The 8BA style engine like yours, I don't think I've ever seen one that rods were not marked, the L1 R1 ect rods were on the 48 and older engine, yours should be stamped 1----8 on the cap and rod. Walt

Binx · 09-09-2014, 07:39 PM

As several have said above, the rods should be reconditioned which is basically milling/sanding the cap then boring/honing to size. The issue I'd be concerned with is making sure you take the time to match the caps so the side load surfaces are perfectly even at the parting line. This surface can't be corrected during reconditioning.

Lonnie

Vonn Ditch · 09-10-2014, 08:45 AM

Ok got it. The rods are indeed marked 1 through 8. A wire brush is your friend. Thanks Walt. And......there is a small "bump" on top of the front main with the offset bolt holes. My apple crate full of parts are now all matched up on the bench waitin' to see if the block will pass the pressure test. Thanks to all.

09-09-2014, 08:42 AM	#1
Vonn Ditch Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 74	Help with this 8BA So I bought a basketcase 49-53 Flathead that had been stored unassembled for years. We pressure washed and cleaned it up and checked it with magnaflux. No cracks presented themselves. It's a standard bore with only slight ridge at the top of the cylinder. Here's the problem, the engine was taken apart and nothing was marked, rod end caps, mains, all unmarked and loose in a box. How should I proceed? Thanks

09-09-2014, 08:54 AM	#2
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,436	Re: Help with this 8BA Most con rods were numbered but not all. They can still be used but some form of ID check on the cap bores needs to be done. On the mains, there is a 50/50 chance you can get them back in proper order since the rear main cap is unique. All of these can be align honed at a good machine shop to eliminate worries. Check the caps for indented center punch marks too. I usually mark the with 1 dot for the front main and 2 dots for the middle. I would have the engine bored with new pistons if the wear is beyond service limits. Consider a pressure test of the block. You can have cracks that are not visible by magnaflux. It's the only way to be sure there will be no leaks. Last edited by rotorwrench; 09-09-2014 at 09:02 AM.

09-09-2014, 09:57 AM	#3
JWL Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fitzgerald, Georgia Posts: 2,204	Re: Help with this 8BA The main caps are a simple process to assign locations because the drilling will allow only one of the caps to properly fit at the front. The bearing notch of block and cap go to the same side. Of course the rear cap is easily identified. The rods are usually marked with L and R(for left and right) and 1-2-3-4(for front to rear). If there are no rod markings a careful examine can sometimes find witness marks to help. In the end it might be necessary to use a precision gage to sort through each rod with potential caps to find a usable set. Too, it is possible to cut and re-machine the rods making cap location a moot point. But, the expense would seldom be desirable.

09-09-2014, 10:10 AM	#4
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Help with this 8BA As stated above the mains are a non-issue, there are differences between the front and the center caps (very slight, but they are different). The rods really should be reconditioned, so they would become a non-issue also.

09-09-2014, 10:49 AM	#5
GreenMonster48 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Enfield Connecticut Posts: 559	Re: Help with this 8BA Spend the $250 or so to have the block hot tanked and pressure checked to check for cracks that may not be evident to the naked eye. I spent $250 on a NOS french crankshaft and another $175 on NOS french rods. I'd imagine you'd spend similar money to get your existing parts machined.

09-09-2014, 11:15 AM	#6
Richardtx Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 48	Re: Help with this 8BA Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) You can identify the front and center main bearing caps by.....the front cap will always have a little bump cast on the cap about 1/8". Also, the bolt holes will be centered on center cap. The bolt hols will be a liitle off-center on front cap. If rod caps are not marked, look at the matching machine marks when rod was honed. Sometimes you can see where the lines match up.

09-09-2014, 01:09 PM	#7
Vonn Ditch Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 74	Re: Help with this 8BA I appreciate the help. I've lined up someone for the pressure check, we'll see where we go from there. There had to be some reason the engine was apart, I just don't see it yet.

09-09-2014, 03:25 PM	#8
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,860	Re: Help with this 8BA Front main bolts are different. Have large hole in center of bolt head. Have never figgered out why??

09-09-2014, 03:30 PM	#9
supereal Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Re: Help with this 8BA Your best bet is to take the rods and caps to a good machine shop and have them assembled and honed to determine whether they can be used. Have the crank measured, as well, to determine the oversize. if necessary. Standard oversize is .010, ,020, .030, and .040. Otherwise special order bearings will be needed. At our shop, we grind crankshafts and order spec bearings from Mahle. Most "basket case" engines have some surprises.

09-09-2014, 07:35 PM	#10
Walt Dupont--Me. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gardiner Me. Posts: 4,200	Re: Help with this 8BA Take the front and center main caps and lay them on the bench upside down, you'll see the front cap bolt holes are off set and the center cap the holes are in the middle, The 8BA style engine like yours, I don't think I've ever seen one that rods were not marked, the L1 R1 ect rods were on the 48 and older engine, yours should be stamped 1----8 on the cap and rod. Walt

09-09-2014, 07:39 PM	#11
Binx Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Gloucester VA Posts: 1,042	Re: Help with this 8BA As several have said above, the rods should be reconditioned which is basically milling/sanding the cap then boring/honing to size. The issue I'd be concerned with is making sure you take the time to match the caps so the side load surfaces are perfectly even at the parting line. This surface can't be corrected during reconditioning. Lonnie

09-10-2014, 08:45 AM	#12
Vonn Ditch Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 74	Re: Help with this 8BA Ok got it. The rods are indeed marked 1 through 8. A wire brush is your friend. Thanks Walt. And......there is a small "bump" on top of the front main with the offset bolt holes. My apple crate full of parts are now all matched up on the bench waitin' to see if the block will pass the pressure test. Thanks to all.