I'd like to start a new thread on the components used in building a flathad

[hop up]

Ron or JWL what book is it as I thought I had them all

[flatjack9]

"Flathead Facts"

[Ol' Ron]

"Small Base circle's" is the nemeses of adjustable lifters. The adjustable lifter was designed to eliminate the need to grind the valve sten after a valve job. Back in the Day they were $12.50 a set, and saved allot of time. When the "High lift" cams came along, so did the extended lift lifter. Which was just a longer screw. Today, these are not available so the lifters have to be extended to far out to keep the adjustment for very long. Today I use the chevy 1 1/3 exhaust valve which has a .060" longer stem to solve this problem.


Should be 1 1/2 valve, eyesight getting worse??

[Kilohertz]

Originally Posted by tubman

I am also partial to a 2GC on a Mercury manifold.

Excellent thread boys, lots of great ideas.

I am in the process of improving my 239 C1BA with EAB heads engine and for now just wanting to go with the "bolt on" improvements. I think I will keep the EAB heads and just have them milled a little.

Could someone here post a picture of the Mercury intake? What makes it different from the Ford? I googled it but couldn't find anything definitive from a reliable source. Maybe a pic of the small base 2GC also....pls and thx

Thanks!

[flatjack9]

The Mercury manifold has a 4 bolt carb base.

[coup34]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

God Bless!!!!!!

[Kilohertz]

Some things I am contemplating right now...and have collected so far.

An Offy 4 bbl intake
Carter WCFB carb, mine is from a Caddy with a 365 cu" engine so it may be a bit "big" but it bolts right on the intake without adapters.

I have a couple of 4GCs on the way here but they are the early 60's variety and would need an adapter plate to work with the Offy intake.

Also watching for a used Holley 390CFM carb but they are rare here, and new is too pricey for me.

Already have modified and installed a GM points distributor so I am ready for whatever carb combo I decide to use.

But now with the new twist, I may start looking for a Merc manifold and 2GC carb.

Cheers

[Ol' Ron]

measure, measure, measurer. How much are you going to mill the heads?? Guess work can wast allot of money, or destroy an engine. But if you measure the clearance you have noe and sutract the amount you want. BINGO!!!Winner
Gramps

[Kilohertz]

Oh yes, I will measure x 3 when I get to that point. I'm not tearing it apart until I have all the parts ready to go and a solid plan in place. There are still 643 things I need to do on the truck and the engine is just one of them. For now she runs well and that makes me happy. I still don't have brakes, steering column, brake pedal, seats, driveshaft etc.... It will probably be summer before I will have it moving around under it's own power. If I take my time and keep my eyes open I should be able to find most of the engine parts I want/need at a reasonable cost.

Following this thread with great interest.

Cheers

[Straightpipes]

I have a very nice running 8BA engine with attached 39 transmission. It is fairly stock with a Merc cam. .060 over. EAB heads. I am thinking of putting it in a 34 truck. I don't want to deal with the fan and crossmember problems. I am thinking of changing cam, front cover, install a crab, etc. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Straightpipes

I have a very nice running 8BA engine with attached 39 transmission. It is fairly stock with a Merc cam. .060 over. EAB heads. I am thinking of putting it in a 34 truck. I don't want to deal with the fan and crossmember problems. I am thinking of changing cam, front cover, install a crab, etc. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks.

It works fine. Use the stay rod adapters available for 8ba blocks.
Remember, you are pushing the car along through the stay rods.
Without them, you are pushing through the rubber motor mounts.

[Ol' Ron]

In my opinion the Best ignition system for a :Street engine" is the converted GM unit. No other ignition system offers the tunability it provides. I wanted to have a thread on tuning the flathead, and you'll see why.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

In my opinion the Best ignition system for a :Street engine" is the converted GM unit. No other ignition system offers the tunability it provides. I wanted to have a thread on tuning the flathead, and you'll see why.

Perhaps so, but another option is to convert a Mallory made to fit a GM complete with vacuum advance and other tune-ability features.
(and you don't have the over-sized distributor cap that looks out of place)
( also if you don't like the red cap Napa has a black one Pn. ECH MA2 )

[Ol' Ron]

Does the mallory have an adjustable Mechanical advance? An interesting note is: The MSD Distributors us the GM mechanical advance. With no adjustments, except with bushing swaps/
Gramps

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Does the mallory have an adjustable Mechanical advance? An interesting note is: The MSD Distributors us the GM mechanical advance. With no adjustments, except with bushing swaps/
Gramps

Check here for some information---


https://static.summitracing.com/glob.../maa-29015.pdf


https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/500-2318001.pdf

[Ol' Ron]

Yes, now I remember it. However, I don't remember ever using it. At that time in my life I didn't really care about economy cruising, I was a |Pedal to the metal" Kinds guy. Tiday, with the cost of building an engine, you might as wekk have it stick around for awhile. If in tune, it should last for ever. Stay tuned.
Gramos.

[woodiedude]

I have been involved with cars for more than 40 years but I am fairly new to Ford Flatheads. I do have a Pontiac Straight 8 flathead in my Woodie, but it is very different from the Ford.

After doing research for the past 2 months, I am going to have a 59a built for my newly acquired very original and unrestored 40 Ford Convertible. This car has not been driven since 1973


Specs for the engine currently, however I would appreciate comments

59a block, 3 5/16 bore
4 1/8 inch stroke Scat Crank
Ford 7 inch French Rods
Isky Max 1 or Isky 77b reground cam
Edmunds 2 carb intake
Two 97 Carbs, I intend to send them to Uncle Max
Chevy 1.5 Manley Valves
Ross Pistons
Edelbrock Block Letter Heads (65 or 74 cc) Input appreciated, is 9:1 or 8:1 preferred?
Amateur port and relieving the block (Will do this myself)
Melling M19 oil pump
Partial flow oil filter
Stromberg e fire distributor
powermaster 12V alternator (Will be mounted front and center)
powermaster starter

Acid dip, paint interior, and pressure seal block

[Ol' Ron]

284ci is a big engine, should preform very well. I don't recommend relieving the bolck and porting can reduce performance if done wrong. The selection of camshaft and the planned CR of the engine befor you buy the heads. Also why the french rods they will work oK on a large journal but the crank might had the small journal for the 21a rods and floating bearing , another item You might consider. Now all this depends on the Application If it just a cruiser, it's an expensive one. Also the Scat crank assy will usually come with "H: beam rods and Ross pistons, which a best suited for racing. Now a 276CI engine would be 50% cheaper, and still provide the same performance, 90% of the time.
O word on porting. On the bottom of the port there is a hump in from of the valve guide, DONOT remove it, it directs airflow away from the back of the bowl.
Gramps

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Does the mallory have an adjustable Mechanical advance? An interesting note is: The MSD Distributors us the GM mechanical advance. With no adjustments, except with bushing swaps/
Gramps

Yep actually the Mallory is the most adjustable advance unit out there . limits and rates are adjustable with no parts needed . A good one for sure ......